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Everything posted by TGP

  1. Interesting Checklist. Dr. Who quickly becomes one of those "which version" questions. ('Which Doctor?' is how it is how the Whovians usually phrase it...) More which version questions: I Am Legend - Heston or Smith? BattleStar Galactica - Chrome Cylons or the newer version? Casino Royale - there are at least two, but I think three? Total Recall - Schwarzenegger or the newer one?
  2. Back in the ancient days when I played D&D the DM -wrote- all back stories. It was never up to the players. Back stories incongruent with the campaign world could not exist, by definition. If a player wants to run a Viking berserk in a world that has no Scandinavia and no Vikings it does not happen. Time to exert more control over this game world. _________ Somebody suggested creating consequences for playing this sort of character: Take control of your campaign world. Start an Inquisitorial Crusade in your campaign world, an order of deadly knights and assassins, bent on destroying all forms, signs and vestiges of slavery... ...just rumours at first. Raiders from the sea. A Sultan's palace sacked in the distant East. But they gradually permeate every realm and kingdom abolishing slavery as they go. This is an organization for NPCs ONLY. Sometimes they free a few slaves but this lot is so zealous they most often kill the slaves as well (on the theory that, once enslaved, a being can never truly be free, unless they are freed from life). Bad guys who consider slavers worse guys. Eventually, it will become dangerous for the problem character to wear a collar, (the character will need to hide it or, better, lose it.) If the character is killed don't allow a new one with the in-game reason: the supply of once-enslaved persons who could be the basis of a similar character has become too small and rare for you to allow it as a character. The out-of-game reason: your patience with Cookie Cutter Character Syndrome (...I borrow the Goblin's phrase...) has ended. Your problem player will do one of three things: leave and not come back do something different, accede, cooperate look for some other, different, (what was the word?) "squicky" thing to disturb you with. Either of the first two - you Win. If it is the third choice - time for another restraining order.
  3. What could Reaper feasibly do to assist/encourage/befriend those local game stores that both continue to exist AND carry Reaper's miniatures? [thinks real hard] Product variations or special packaging that is available only to (and therefore through) brick and mortar stores. [?] Dyads: a metal mini and a random bones mini together in a blister... [?] ..(it is sorta like paint triads; only there's just two things). ...Bonus Bones Dyads™Each mini would continue to be available to order separately direct from Reaper or from an OLGS. ...bad idea, meh idea? anybody got a better idea?
  4. This is the way my local store feels. They felt bypassed by the kickstarter. The owner has been a longtime product buyer and has carried Reaper since Reaper was new to the hobby, and was immensely upset that all the new products were available to the consumer before they were available to longtime product carriers. He is also upset that and doesn't plan to carry the new bones because folks who would have bought them ALREADY have them. He was talking idly about dropping ALL Reaper products if they keep doing kickstarters. He needs to adapt. He must adapt. Crowd sourced funding/marketing is not going to go away† ... whether that is a good thing or a bad thing. †short of being banned by a government that is also willing to abolish the internet.
  5. Interesting. I may go edit the original post. I was not paying much close attention to GW back when MMcV was a youngster. Was that when he was part of the original 'Eavy Metal painting group?
  6. Yep. Hunter gatherers in a forest are surrounded by stuff that is mostly.... [ -insert a color here- ] ?
  7. The humanoid creature known as the orc was originated by Tolkien who never really gave it a skin color. The sources of colour information that I have noted over the years (more or less in chronological order) are: Tolkien [1] TSR Dungeons & Dragons [2] The Hildebrandt Brothers/Tolkien Calendars [3] Games Workshop/Warhammer [4] Blizzard Entertainment/Warcraft/World of Warcraft [5] The colors of orcs as I have known them to have evolved: [1] Sallow - a dingy yellow, but so filthy you could hardly see the colour. (The sallow reference is in a private letter and was not originally published.) [1.5] As Dr Bedlam mentioned there were sunlight tolerant Uruk-Hai in Tolkien, these were bred by the wizard Saruman, possibly by magically crossing human Dunlendings with base Orcs. I don't recall a skin color for them in the original work. Their battle livery was black with white sigils. (Black field color; with a White hand.) [2] Yellow or Pinkish - these were the piggy / hog-faced orcs, and IMHO an attempt by TSR to be faithful to Tolkien while also being clear of any IP issues. [2.5] The first Dungeons and Dragons DM I ever had, used Red Orcs in his campaigns as super-Orcs. Blizzard/Warcraft might have the trademark now but they did not think of it first. I expect gamers did that independently in many places. [3] Muddy Warm Yellowish Brown, except for the very dark looking orcs in the Siege of Minas Tirith Painting. (I think this painting may be the origin of the Black Orc concept.) [4] The originators[?] of the cartoony green orcs; not really sure who first put green paint on an orc; I suspect it might not have been GW; Black Orcs were a later thought by GW, and others have picked up on it. (The question is: how long has green been associated with goblins of the diminutive sort?) [5] Perpetuators of the Green Orcs in their initial products, but I think they have glommed on to the idea of Red-Orcs these days in addition to green. [6?] Buglips is clearly a Brown Goblin but I would have no idea where to place him in the chronology.
  8. Ooh! That's SO COOL to see the originals! Thank you very much for the warm welcome, all! Surprised nobody mentioned it but when the epoxy putty is new and a raw material: half of it is Blue; the other half is Yellow. The two halves are mixed to activate the putty (starting the hardening process). When mixed it turns Green (for the same reason mixing blue and yellow paint usually yields some shade of green). Sculpting is done after the putty is mixed (and still soft) but before it hardens. Edit: You asked about priming: black, white, or grey are the usual colors. (I have tried brown a time or two but that's another story.) ps: Welcome.
  9. Paper Clip Wire is inexpensive, comes in two thicknesses, and is nice and stiff. The tool you must have is called a Pin Vise. Memorize that phrase. It can look like one of these: A pin vise is a tiny drill turned by hand. They'll go through the bones material like it is butter. (Edit: This was the best picture of pin vises I could easily find. I have no idea what a "Lapua Flash Hole" is. I think they were drilling in brass on the page it came from.)
  10. I have all the terrain paint I will ever need. Paid 50¢ per 8 ounce pot for it. Mostly from Home Depot. (There is this endless supply of amateur interior designers people trying to get HD to mix the exactly right grass-green, taupe [desert tan], just so subtle browns, or perfect blues to put on their walls ... and the process produces lots of unloved, unwanted terrain paint in little plastic cans.)
  11. I have used tape to stick miniatures. Masking tape. The blue kind. But I do not mean as a substitute for double-sided tape. I lash the miniature down. If it is a slotta-base often the tape can pass between the ankles. But the usual method is to permanently mount the mini to its base, then over lash the corners and edges of the base with tape. This does mean the base gets painted later / last.
  12. Clearly we need Orky skeletons... Games Workshop (the EE to some) did this once. They also had a skeletal dwarf, lizardman, an elf and maybe an ogre or something in that size category. I think the elf was the standard bearer. It was a 'mercenary' undead unit (it was never explained what they did with the money) that could be hired by other armies. It existed due to a cursed banner or cursed sword. The leader was a named character, Kapitan Victor Kruegar, Krieger[?], who had once been an officer of the "The Empire". It must have been a cursed sword because enemy casualties could end up joining the ranks.
  13. Dwelling as opposed to house. Nice. Is that because the sundial is just outside the West entrance?
  14. From the post with all the scales: Ground Distance Scale / Terrain & Buildings / Six Foot Tall Objects (which is sometimes figures) 1:1200 -- 1 inch equals 100 feet ---- 1.5 mm soldiers 1: 600 --- 1 inch equals 50 feet ------ 3 mm soldiers 1: 300 --- 1 inch equals 25 feet ------ 6 mm soldiers 1: 180 --- 1 inch equals 15 feet ---- 10 mm soldiers <----- CAV:SO Scale 1: 160 --- 1 inch equals 13.33 feet --- 11.25 mm soldiers 1: 150 --- 1 inch equals 12.5 feet ---- 12 mm soldiers Old CAV, marked in Blue, (1, 1.5, 2) may have been a bit of a mish-mash compromise scale. There's an idea. Non-game specific Stompy Robots. They just need another entirely unrelated robots game or two. Solution: a different Stompy Robot Game, new **name, different ***mechanics: 2D12, 1D20, 2D8 ... whatever melts your laser. **BBM - Bipedal Battle Mechs™ or DBW - De Bellis Warmecha™ (DBW is also C - A - V but plus one letter. Just like HAL was IBM plus one letter.) ***Somewhere in another thread around here, there somebody was opining (negatively) about the 2D6 mechanic of CAV:SO.
  15. Would look like they are going ogre skiing? Have you done this? I had to think hard about it --- I don't think I ever have. I was picturing round bases TBH. And mostly creatures like big four legged dinosaurs, dragons, and that Lord of the Rings Oliphant that has as many tusks as legs --- and of course Dragons. I have decided that if I am ever confronted by a miniature I need to use for Warlord like that IronCobra example (fits on a cavalry base; it needs to fit in a square base) that I am going to cheat a little. I will put it on the larger base, but I will mark the base with some kind of contrasting basing sand or grass. For example: the official 25x25 square will be all black lava sand and the excess base will be blond sand or grass. The excess base zone will stick out to the rear of the figure and my opponent will be cordially invited to place figures over it (if possible) or just ignore its presence (shoot through it; sight over it, etc.) The contrasting coloring will mark what is not officially there.
  16. If that ever happens to me I will revert to mostly harmless.. ..or at least that is my plan.
  17. Yes. I use them to paint terrain. Straight out of the bottle they put down a nice thick coating. Which is good for scratch-built terrain. Not necessarily good for miniatures. The thickness/consistency will remind you of latex house paint.
  18. And now for something completely random: Stand back! SCIENCE will occur if this is clicked...
  19. But I wuvs her... the annoying little twerp... lol That motion activated sensor idea sounded fun as well. Suppose your painting area could be 'trained' (...rigged; booby trapped...) to bark like an angry dog, maybe with several different audio clips; which would need to select and play at random for realism. No, not random; only when triggered. We're not going for realism here, we're conditioning a cat. Although… perhaps a random delay of 0 - 5 seconds from the trigger would be useful. Frak. Now I'm thinking about a microcontroller project for which I have neither the time nor the space. I took him to mean the bark sounds randomized when the trap triggered. So it's not always a predictable angry dog bark sound. Neither the time nor the space for profit? People might buy one.... KICKSTARTER! Yes. Exactly at least half a dozen different barks, snarls, growwffs and other grumpy dog noises ... to prevent the puddy-tat from getting wise to the gizmo. Cats are not stupid (but some pretend to be). A relative of mine used to have a cat. That cat had trained my relative to do tricks. That cat liked to sit on a porch behind a screen door, smugly surveying all that he could see and smelling the great outdoors. Unhappily, there were two doors between the cat and the porch with screen door. So first, the living room door: cat walks up to a closed door, puts his paw on the carpet, rotates his wrist 180, knuckles now brushing the carpet, slides the paw underneath the door, choink! claws extend into the soft unpainted wood on the bottom of the door, cat backs up, door gets dragged open, cat moves to next door. (The 1st door's latch does not work, it is misaligned or something; old house...) Nobody taught the cat that the door latch was loose or any of the steps in the foregoing procedure. Cat wanted past the door and figured out how to get past it all by himself. But that left the second door. No problem: the cat uttered a simple command, Meowww-r-r-p, Meowww-r-r-p, a couple of times and simply waited for his trained human to come open the exterior metal door. Voila, porch access. There is a reason you can't train cats to do tricks: they are too busy thinking about the next trick they are going to train you to do.
  20. But I wuvs her... the annoying little twerp... lol I wonder what would happen if you built a fake painting area near the actual painting area? It would need minis, lots of tiny bottles, water-pot, etc. Confound/bemuse your cat with a decoy... They also have spike strips for birds. Maybe you could get some of that stuff and make some 'terrain pieces' that you would put in place when you were not using the paint area. That motion activated sensor idea sounded fun as well. Suppose your painting area could be 'trained' (...rigged; booby trapped...) to bark like an angry dog, maybe with several different audio clips; which would need to select and play at random for realism.
  21. You seem to be thinking, "there is a recession; therefore prices have dropped." This is wrongthinkingTM. WrongthinkingTM is punishable. (But luckily you do not live on Talos IV or anywhere in the Imperium of Man... ) You need to ask yourself two key questions: What is the replacement cost of these minis if you bought a new squad of them from GW? What was the price of petrol at the time you bought these minis and what is it now? PRICES OF EVERYTHING GO UP WHEN THE ECONOMY IS BAD; NOT DOWN. You have painted them better than I could, or would. There was a guy in my local group of warhammer players who would paint armies for other people. He charged clients the price of the minis for decent table-top quality. Your quality level is one notch above his at least. So, double the current cost of the miniatures is your absolute minimum. (I think that is called the "reserve value" on eBay?) You provided both models and paint job so you should ask the eventual purchaser to compensate you for both. You insulate yourself from this by putting appropriate disclaimers on your eBay listing, such as: "Buyer accepts paint scheme as-is. High-resolution pictures are available on request." Check other people's auctions for better, more precise phrasing. The level of detail in the pictures you posted here is enough to spark interest but not good enough to sell. If I was looking at these on eBay I would want a tight close-up of the standard bearer, the officer, and 2 or 3 of the grunts including the grunt with the poorest paint job whichever he is. And then be prepared to email somebody much higher resolution, 2MB pics of each guy. Pricing them on eBay: Make $160 the minimum reserve price. (Or whatever 2x the current cost of the minis is.) If someone bids less it responds: reserve not met. Make the Buy It Now price $250. (1.5x your minimum reserve price + $10) And let people start bidding, if they will, and see what happens. The worst that can happen is it goes on eBay and expires with no bids. I don't think that will happen, the paint looks pretty good, but it will depend more on whether an IG 40K army is popular now or not. Your market for this is: guys who play 40K AND who cannot or don't paint AND who want to build an IG army AND have some spare $$$. With all those qualifiers it is a pretty small market and your best chance to find buyers meeting those criteria is something like eBay.
  22. Do any of you ever base minis by giving --each foot-- a separate base? (In this instance "minis" means things considered Ogre size and up...)
  23. (I was inspired to look at these closely by a different thread...) These are the Dragonmen of Varandanar Varanadar: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3436/sku-down/03436 this one is named Amoloch[sp?] but searching by that name will not find him. http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3316/sku-down/03316 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3403/sku-down/03403 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3476/sku-down/03476 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3442/sku-down/03442 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/3022/sku-down/03022 this one is named Dar'Karak or Dar' Kanak but searching by that name will not find him. Names source is here: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Dragonmen/sku-down/10030#detail/10030_back. The image is not quite big enough to read some of the names clearly, hence the uncertain spellings. I believe they all have the tag DragonmAn. Would it be useful to tag these six as DragonmEn? Searching on "dragonmen" currently brings up one result only --- the boxed set --- but not the individuals in the set. Adding "Varanadar" as a tag to these six guys might be a thought as well.
  24. It could do with a little bit of grey model RR ballast (assorted sizes) scattered around to get that rocky effect from the reference photos. Otherwise looks very good. Nice paintjob on the interceptor.
  25. Actually, there are two: HHS (Health and Human Services) and the IRS (Internal Revenue Service) ... support ObamaCare take your meds ... the government is watching us all.
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