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Bones Supporter
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About Illithar

  • Birthday 01/23/1986

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  • Location
    The Middle of Nowhere, AK
  • Interests
    Collecting unpainted mini's to paint... eventually.

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  1. Yeah, the entire screen should be a big violet square. Any spots means it's going bad.
  2. The Tank Clean function does not move the build plate. The intended use is to fully explose the full print area for an extended period. This creates a layer of cured resin that traps any print failures or bits of resin. You then peel it off of the FEP. I have seen some people pit a small bit of support in the vat when doing this to create a sort 'handle' to make it easier. Without the vat in place and the hood off you will just have a fully open and lit up screen. I did this on my old Mars Pro without issue.
  3. Correct. However, the point of running without the tank in the printer is to fully light up a clear screen. It doesn't display a logo or other image, just clear blank screen. The normal LCD test can sometimes obscure otherwise dead pixel. It's basically two different way to test the screen (as well as an option for cleaning the FEP).
  4. Spit-balling a few ideas... As an alternative to the usual screen test have you tried a tank clean? Do it without the vat and all that on, but it should show a fully open/lit up screen. Sometimes this can reveal dead/bad pixels that the regular screen test wont. Are there any damaged or foggy parts on the FEP? Have you printed this base before? Maybe there are voids/resin traps in it?
  5. Be warned: despite being hollow, the brachiosaur + base took about 2 liters of resin to print. Oh yeah... the base. It's not exactly bad but it's not great. It's in 8 parts and it actually comes together fairly well. The gaps are not sizable so if you are not like me you can ignore them. However, it is not keyed properly for the dino's feet. There are vague spots for where they would go but it just kind of... sits on it. So I got some milliput and molded it around the feat to give the impression (hah...) of the feet pressing into the ground a bit. It's also a big chunk of the resin cost for printing it, so you could save yourself some money/resin and not print it. The brachiosaur does a decent job of standing on it's own, but if you want some good stability you could probably attach a 2 or 3 inch bases to each of the three feet that touch the ground. If you plan on using it for tabletop gaming this might be the better option to be honest. As an example:
  6. So I just realized I hadn't shared the completed Brachiosaurus. I haven't finished painting it yet, I uh... don't really have a desk big enough to accommodate it. I actually broke the spear on the rider while moving around when I primed it. I was able to glue it back on though. I need to reorganize before I can get much further. Also, I think due to some warping at some stage, or stages, the platform on the back doesn't line up right so that's going to take a lot of time and milliput. But here's a further idea of how big it is. And the platform not lining up. Best guess is some small warping here and there that led to this. The platform is level, so I'll just have to fill in the gaps with milliput and some toothpicks.
  7. I haven't seen it talked about much either. However, I have to wonder if they are thinking of unprotected or unpainted prints that are casually exposed to UV light day today. Even filtered through glass and curtains there's always a small bit of UV light around. If the resin isn't protected in some way this could cause it to slowly 'over cure' overtime. This could cause shrinkage or make them more brittle. I imagine paint will block most UV light, and sealers/varnishes (if used) usually have their own UV protecting properties. I'm not sure what else might adversely affect resin prints that wouldn't also affect regular resin. Some resins might be more susceptible to regular wear-and-tear, others might not. But, that holds true for traditionally cast resins as well.
  8. I petered out on Bones 5. I had a full pledge at one point, then downscaled it to $1 to get pledge manager access later. Then never did anything with the pledge manager access. Part was because I never had the funds to actually go in on it. Near the end of the pledge manager is also when I got my first printer. I haven't purchased a physical mini since then.
  9. It's specifically Chitubox's thumbnail generator thing. I uninstalled Chitubox a while a go, but I believe the thumbnail part is an optional part of the install.
  10. Lord of the Print teaser for February. Theme is 'One too many pickaxes towards the abyss' It will have: Young, Adult, and Elder Brown Dragons (young pictured below) Balgura x3 (I think they mean 'Barlgura'? That's what google gives me anyway) Look to be giant red-furred gorilla like things. Kobolds x10 Demogorgan
  11. Well, I am finally making the plunge and starting to print the Brachiosaurus Caravan from Lord of the Prints Dinotopia release. Unfortunately, this is as far as I got before I ran out of resin. I have another bottle coming, but it is currently stuck in northwest Washington.
  12. Lord of the Print for January: Also, it comes with a small PDF book with some lore as well as stats for all of the monsters for D&D 5e. Sounds like this might be an addition that future releases may contain. Heheheee it's so derpy I love it! The Placoduro AKA Dunxolotl. The crab is a separate bit.
  13. Any of the above, depending on context. And as with what @Cranky Dog said, with internet conversations it's better to just not engage.
  14. Not to be too alarming, but this could be due to a loose cable or a faulty/failing screen. Both cases can lead to parts of the screen not being fully on/off when the light turns on leading the partially cured spots. I had this happen when the first screen for my old Mars Pro started to fail. If the printer is new though, the screen cable could be loose, which can happen during shipping even with the tape holding it in place.
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