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Bones Supporter
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Thrym last won the day on October 14 2013

Thrym had the most liked content!

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About Thrym

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    Director, Department of Acquisitions
  • Birthday 03/21/1969

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    Waterloo, NY
  • Interests
    Making display bases, painting miniatures, helping the miniatures community, advising ub3r_n3rd on his projects ... so on. If you want my advice, drop my name (I'll eventually find it), PM me, or hit me up on Facebook, Google or Skype.

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  1. Okay, I stuck with a skull. I picked out one with it broken already and gouged out the cavity a bit more. I also sanded the back of it down so it sat properly on this wing. Then while looking at other skull options I came across a shield from the Bones IV KS. It matched the theme so I added it as a shoulder piece on the right shoulder. Now it's fully basecoated. I noticed some missed spots while working on the additions. Next up, picking out some differing stone colors and working on placement. Stay Tuned and Enjoy. Please Stay Safe.
  2. For any who might be interested, here's the print and model train engine that has been the background of my pics for this mini. The silver and red engine in behind the Union Pacific is the Silver Streak from the movie of the same name. The print and the model railroad display were literally the first thing I hung up when we moved here.
  3. So, the left side still has some more ironwork in place. Debating if I want to place a normal skull, a different skull or none at all. Will decide soon. Stay Tuned and Enjoy. Please Stay Safe.
  4. Thank you. I just set him on my magnifying lamp with the light on to provide the light from below. There is a regular lamp to my left and the TV to my right providing the cyan light. The picture is taken with my Samsung Note 20 and I edit it for color correction, crop and sharpness right on there as well. In the very distant background is my steam engine print and the Union Pacific engine and car display. The print is from the Scranton Steam Engine Museum.
  5. Here's the right wing with a wrought-iron basecoat. The rest of the model is coated except the left wing. I like using the wrought-iron as a basecoat for my golems because it makes the cracks and gaps look like something is underneath the stone or metal, animating the construct. Besides, it will definitely look cool in the mask's mouth and eyes as well as all the little skulls. Stay Tuned and Enjoy. Please Stay Safe.
  6. Added a skull center piece and a wire curled "V" to the middle of the crossbar so far. Waiting for full cure before meddling with more wire ideas.
  7. Here it is with the copper crossbar applied. Now to find my lightest gauge floral wire and add some filigree work around it. Stay tuned and Enjoy. Stay Safe please.
  8. After assembling the Graveyard Golem I decided I wanted to adjust the warp of the gates on the golem's back. So using two copper staples, I shaped them to an arch and gouged a notch on each wing. Then cut the staple to leave a sharp point. After that, I insert the staple using pliers and force. Next I will secure the wire to the gate posts with superglue and then shape the wire and wing to the desired warp. Once setup I will glue the wire to the remaining gate bars. With the main new bars secured, I will intertwine some floral wire to dress up the bars and gate wings. Stay tuned and Enjoy. Please stay safe.
  9. I garnered some Amazon cash over the holidays and found a golem that I didn't buy with the Bones IV KS so I bought it. 77526 :: Graveyard Golem I also acquired two customized miniatures from Hero Forge ... My Grippli Rogue; Grouper My Dwarven Herald of Loki (Fighter 19/Cleric of Loki 1); Hrogath I will post them to WIP once I get them primed and started. I also recently acquired a set of 4 lining brushes and a nice octagonal dice case and tray. More mini Acquisitions on the way. In the process of organizing everything and hoping to put everything into my Pearltrees catalog. Stay turned and Enjoy. Stay safe.
  10. This just received... Bob Smith Industries (repackaged) glue set. ● 1oz. Bottle of Gap Filling Medium ● 1oz. Bottle of Super Thin (my 2oz. Bottle is nearly gone) ● 1oz. Bottle of Extra Thick ● 2oz. Bottle of Accelerator (compatible with plastic and foam) I went through the offerings on Amazon and chose this because it covered everything and I could try out their other two glues. I haven't had any accelerator in sometime so that was a plus. Coming next week is BSI's Clear Grip-It Glue to try. I will post about it when I do try it out. As an aside... I want to say that I am not in the least bit guilt ridden over starting the original thread for the Department of Acquisitions. I really do enjoy enabling people to enjoy their hobbies. Not nearly as much as @ub3r_n3rd perhaps, but enjoy it I do. Unfortunately, I don't read this as religiously as I once did. So, I hope everyone enjoys this as well. Don't forget to post your spoils for the Holidays. I expect to see any and all nerd, crafting, maker and any other hobby-related stuff posted. Stay tuned and Enjoy. Please Stay Safe.
  11. The base is finished but the lighting and resolution sucked so these aren't the final images. Zero painting went into this piece. Everything is its original material mixed with glue, that's it. I will put together some real photo booth type images. I just took these quickly this evening. My work area is a mess and I haven't used it in a while. Been working at my office desk or in my living room chair. In any event, a Show Off will come. Stay tuned and Enjoy. As always, please Stay Safe.
  12. Added more beads and my custom ground mix. The next step is to add watered down white glue along the back to fill with ground mix. It won't be a paste, per se, I will likely apply loose ground mix in to the base to level and add the glue to saturate. Once that sets, I will pop the shell off. Custom Ground Mix: ● Bark ● Cork - Dark Brown ● Cork - Light Brown ● Foam Tree Flock - Tan ● Static Grass - Green This gets you powder to simulate dirt, shreds that simulate sticks and forest litter, and bits that look like moss or leaves. I use a coffee grinder (kept separate from the kitchen) to grind these up. Mix the ingredient colors up, add in colored paper for small leaves or just whir away to get it really ground into dust. Don't add sand or other minerals until after you grind up the organics (or light foams and plastics). It will ruin your grinder. Add a little water and white glue in a mixing bowl if you want to apply it like a paste or stucco. I usually just dust it over super glue (various viscosities) to apply it where I want it. A brush and a mix of water and white glue dropped in place can work as well but it takes longer to dry. If you ever want to add color, you need to make the acrylics more than a wash. Think of it as flavored water. Barely any paint and mostly water. Do it more than once to bring the colors up. If you do this, remember, dark bark is still dark bark. So it will still be darker than the other bits. Spread the lot out to dry and re-grind when done if needed. It will take some practice to get the color correct. Stay tuned and Enjoy. Please stay safe.
  13. I took another pic after I added more beads and went with some crystals for the next layer. Gonna mix in some ground shortly and more beads. The crystal is a piece of quartz I broke up. I over exposed the image a bit to better capture the iridescence of the beads. Stay turned and Enjoy. Please stay safe.
  14. Yeah, another base. Shocker, I know. It's one I've been thinking about for years, basically, since I bought the beads that are in it. So, the premise: I use the air-dry clay hexes from the previous project as well as these beads I bought at Walmart so long ago. The Bugle Beads are hex-shaped and iridescent. The color on the tube is labeled as "black iris." I build a flat of the hexes and use the beads upright on a portion of the base to represent an unusual terrain. I use a pill bottle shell along one edge to build the terrain upward on that edge more easily. I'll peel that off later. So here's the bottom layer of the piece. The front layer is as high as it will go. The next layer will go to the top of the beads and also be flat. The last layer will be more like a hill on the other side of the beads. Now if this was for a mech it would look like pilings holding back the earth. I will use more of them here than just along the fronts. Stay tuned. Enjoy. Please, stay safe.
  15. In 2005 my friends and I started a Neverwinter Nights persistent world based on my pen and paper game world, Markshire. I am sure I mentioned this before in a separate post. The purveyor of the main inn in our primary town is a minotaur named "Barkeep Barrelgore." He is a favorite non-player character of the various players of the server. One of our original quest givers, he also served as a valuable source of information both with and without the DMs. So imagine my surprise when I came across a minotaur barkeep miniature on Etsy. HE'S SO FRIGGIN' COOL!!! The sculptor is Duncan Shadow and is licensed for printing by Just Wonder 3D Design. I chatted with the owner of the store and discussed sizing. We arrived at the appropriate size for Barrelgore, and he printed him out and sent him along. Above is what he looks like upon receipt. There weren't many plastic spurs from the printing. The overall finish on the miniature is soft, much like Bones material. Here's a shot of him and two others from Just Wonder's store: Duncan's minotaurs are very solid looking. Stout you might say. I am looking forward to painting him. Barkeep Barrelgore named his inn after the nickname he was given while adventuring. He was a fierce warrior who wielded a double axe and breathed fire because of a magic amulet, he was nicknamed "The Red Dragon" because of this ... and the fact that he's a ginger didn't hurt. So it will be fun to paint him appropriately. For an example of a minotaur I recently (figuratively) painted, here's the Minotaur Monk. I'll add Barrelgore to the WIPs when I have a primer on him. I added the wood plank base I used for the Marvel Golems. However, I sanded back the texture to better resemble a tavern floor than a worn external wood.
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