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Everything posted by Thrym

  1. WOOO!!!! Just was informed by Noble Knight Games that they had acquired a copy of my War Eagle that I had from Ral Partha back in the day. My version has been beat to ... well, you know. I ordered it and it is on its way! Mind you the actual pose of this bird is in flight with its tail attached to a rock tip. It's real lead-based metal so the heavy structure of the bird eventually bends the tail of the bird downward. This time the bird is getting some reinforcement and I have backup pieces to utilize if needed. I could even make it a two-headed war eagle. I also have the original rider. This version is missing his spear. Mine is not. I really loved this miniature when I got it back in the late 80s and wanted to do it justice but the skill to build it wasn't there at the time and the resources to learn (the Interwebs) was not yet available. So, now I have a second chance. As I said earlier ... WOOO!!!!
  2. I made a stamp for the clay to use with the cube tray. Instead of a cylinder it's the shape of a trapezoid from left over Bones sprues. I cut a hole through a small base to make a backstop for the stamp and then added the crossbar for the amount of lip I want. Usually zero lip. I used superglue and baking soda as hard fill. I think to make this easier and more accurate, I will still use a straw or similar to remove the initial amount from the core before stamping the final form in. Should allow for a better and more consistent interior and smoother exterior. I chiseled the tip back a smidge to round out the bottom and back off the depth a bit more. I kept the crossbar for easier grip. Will post once I get this going. Stay safe and stay tuned. Enjoy.
  3. For the cube tray, I will probably remove a cylinder's worth of clay from the middle to allow for better and even air dry as well as lighter weight.
  4. They do. Typically for ice cubes, candy, etc. The larger "brick" pattern for cakes has deeper wells for pushing into fondant and making the pattern stand out at a distance. You can fill the bricks to the lip and dry. There are tons of silicone sheets with patterns.
  5. You are in the ballpark. I am posting this to my blog shortly with the specifics pointed out. So, I will give you the answers TGP asked for. The gun (front and back), the vent (in front of the turret), and the overflow pipe closer to the rock are all from the same piece (#4 on the list above). The other pieces are: Wood piece (1 item) Yellow balls (3 items) Barrel of Turret under Cannon (2 pieces) Various (see above, 4 pieces) Primary piece the whole thing is on not counting the newly added cork round (Bracket, 1 piece) The images again to reference: Blog post coming soon. Barring the server I host on stops CPU spiking.
  6. Here's a trio of pics in better lighting against a neutral background. Then here's a comp of the piece shot low with a background added. And yes, I kind of want a cookie now. The rock in the front looks like a cookie with a small bite out of it. Stay tuned and safe. Enjoy!
  7. Got a lot of the yellow basecoat done for the mosses. I did a pattern of striations the large slab of rock as you can see in the previous image and this one. Colors so far: Undertone for Moss: Reaper Green Liner Moss Basecoat: Vallejo Model Color Flat Yellow Turret Hex Armor Plates: Tropical Blue Rock and Striations: Reaper Desert Tan Reaper Desert Sand Reaper Woodland Brown
  8. Got a little paint on it. While most of the bottom will be based yellow, I'll go back over some of the yellow with some other moss and and alt-flora colors.
  9. The other side... On to painting and the gear.
  10. Moving on... I made some hex armor pieces using air dry clay and a trivet from Walmart. I just smoothed the clay into the silicone and once I had it filled and even I applied a wet towel to smooth the clay out more. It dried before game night ended. Then using Loctite's Power Grab Construction adhesive which is a nice thick gel I applied the hexes to the wood. I super glued the first two pieces for a solid point to assemble the rest against using the top of the pipe or stack that the turret is resting against as the starting point. The pieces went in fairly quick and I left odd gaps at points and loose fits to show the slam damage from the edge of the rim. Once fully applied to this segment I used Bob Smith Industries Super Thin super glue to seal the porous tiles and ensure a good bond to the construction adhesive "thinset" below. The "back" of the turret has the most hex armor damage. Most is just shifted or popped. So there are overlapping plates and splits in the hex pattern. I will start from the "front" again so I can leave a raggedy edge at the back. The plates will be scuffed some more for wear and tear before painting. Stay tuned, stay safe and Enjoy.
  11. Yes, I work part-time for Sherwin-Williams delivering paint and supplies to contractors. I thought it was really appropriate for me given my hobby. I've never participated in dumbass dares in the past, so I'm not gonna start now. But I certainly understand how it may seem like a possiblity in this post Johnny Knoxville / "Jackass" era. Amusingly, my thumb is 100%. My left side and I won't be happy about lifting 5-gallon buckets of paint Monday, but I will manage. I've taken a grand total of like 5 self-portraits. Here's #5, in the van, in "uniform."
  12. See how much that medal rod is bending? All of that pressure was on that small section of my thumb for half a second before I caught the weight back with my offhand. Had that same pressure been on a thinner rod I might have had a broken bone or lost it. I always take stupid lucky when I get it. It felt like 2 - 3 minutes of struggling to get that bar high enough off my thumb but was prolly only 10 - 15 seconds. Then I still had to get the ladder down and put away so I could finish my deliveries. I was definitely on an adrenaline buzz for awhile afterward. I gave my share of blood on Tuesday. I have Type 2 Diabetes so I get a lot of blood drawn and every once in awhile some fool phlebotomist blows the vein. So there's your foul. Left inside elbow at about 2.5 - 3 inches around. It was about a half inch bump before I left as well. Grrrr.
  13. Yup. Tried digit severance yesterday. Luckily, I managed to bend it off my thumb enough to slide it out. The thumb close up is from 2.5 hours later. Today it looks fine. My left side, however ... shoulder, bicep, quad, and lateral are screaming at me today from trying to keep the bar off my thumb.
  14. TGP, you are correct, I saw what the disassembled piece of cap looked like whole. The rest of the items are findings and oddities. They are not generally used for modeling or dioramas. So the obvious answer would be things that stick out in the first picture. I've already said that the bricks were not included and the rock is again, not part of the unusual so that's out. The one's you pointed at are all included but you lacked 2 others and included the SET as separate pieces. But then again that's part of the game. The _____ Bracket is in the description of the project. I don't think I need to elaborate on that, but maybe I do. I could be too close to the answer to see that it's not as obvious as I assume it is. I have checked this with some people locally and most have gotten the gist and figured out what I was doing. So, I don't think it's that hard a game. If you look at this picture and consider what you normally don't see in a diorama and what is commercially made but isn't normally used for diorama building, you should be able to discern which pieces belong are the 5 parts. However, if there's no movement on this by the end of the week (Friday, 19th) I'll post a clue to make it easier. For the sake of fairness, I will disclose the number of instances or parts of each. 1. ______ has 1 piece 2. ______ has 3 pieces 3. ______ has 2 pieces 4. ______ has 4 pieces 5. ______ Bracket is 1 piece Here are two more angles to help you discern piece from piece. Have at em.
  15. Nice try, TGP. I did associate one of the numbers and you did not include it in your diagram. I also mentioned that a portion of objects were all from one item. Thus providing not one clue to its identity but two. Finally, you prolly don't want to use the homogenized image. It's a lot easier to see things in picture 1. This isn't a first one to the finish line contest. For each of those who can figure out ALL of the items, preferably without sharing the info (play fair) will get a Bones mini from me. So, if you want one of "my precioussses," ... ... you'll have to do some work.
  16. PM me your guesses. Individually is fine. You'll get a Yay or Nay response for each one submitted. The message system keeps track of the thread. No need to repeat answers.
  17. We all keep knick knacks and trinkets to make things from in the future. Whether it's some small bit, like dragon pendant I got from Salvation Army for 50 cents or some cardboard forms that hold tech devices in place that look like good buildings for Battletech. I wrote about Bottlecaps as bases a while ago. Recently, I found the plastic mounting bracket that's been floating around my bench and figured out what I wanted to start making. I usually draw out what I intend to do, but the shape of the bracket defined its purpose. This compilation uses a bunch of various finds. So towards that end, I am going to have a little contest. Guess all of the items which I used in here and you will get a random Bones mini. I will provide a numbered list and one clue because one SET is fairly hard to figure out. 1. ______ 2. ______ 3. ______ 4. ______ 5. ______ Bracket Clue: These odd pieces were disassembled from a triangular cap. The bricks are actual brick I bought off of Wish. I got the standard bricks plus the square in gray and brick red. I also have small triangles in brick red. The stone was split length wise so it was nice and flat. The terrain is a custom grind of bark, black walnut bark, dark cork and and coarse normal cork. The gears are from Michael's jewelry and findings section. Some of the white on the terrain is baking soda mixed with super glue. Here's the piece primed... Stay tuned and enjoy.
  18. Sadly, this is a tragic outcome all around. The guy up here in Buffalo, 75-year-old Martin Gugino, is at least in serious but stable condition. The solidarity of the police to have 57 other officers resign the special squad because the two men who actually got busted for pushing Gugino were suspended, then fired and then finally charged . If you want to see the video of the incident you can search for Martin's name or message me. I am glad I got my daughter out of Buffalo in the middle of the Pandemic. I didn't have much choice as her lease was up and she had to move. The whole thing was in motion for a few months. That was fun. The overall issues from all of this aren't going to get solved overnight, but they certainly aren't going to change until someone, somewhere starts listening to the protesters. Treating them like members of the Mos Eisley Social Club isn't going well.
  19. Some of you may remember that I live in the Finger Lakes Region of NY. A fairly rural area, but we do have 3 cities within 50 miles; Rochester (riots), Syracuse (riots), and Ithaca (protests). We also have 3 minor cities within the same frame; Auburn (protests), Canandaigua (protests) and Geneva (protests). The Rochester and Syracuse riots were concerning, not because of the fact that they had escalated to rioting, but because there was some looting. It's the opportunistic POS roaming through this whole story that frustrates me and frankly makes me check the locks. It takes just a niggling thought in the back of the head ... "they'll blame the looters in Rochester," ... "they'll blame the people roaming from city to city on what happens in my town," ... "they won't find me." And then the 7-11 at the thruway exit gets targeted because they close after 11pm. The outlets get targeted because they are in the middle of no where and no one would really notice until the alarms call the locals. It's easy to think you'll get away with this type of behavior right now. And that's the madness behind the opportunists doing the looting. "We can, so we will." It sucks. The problem isn't racial though. From everything I've seen, they are every make and model of human. I use that term lightly. So while I may be relatively removed from the protests and, yes, rioting, my concern in my small little town isn't large groups of people assembling it's opportunists preying. Stay Safe. As said, help and watch over your neighbors and families. Let's hope that 2020 finishes with us soon and we can be done with this "Year from Hell"™ Year from Hell™ is a Trademark of Thom Prati as it pertains to the year 2020. If you want to trademark, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, I believe they are already taken. LOL
  20. Folks, stay safe. If you need to chat about events, life, whatever, ping me on here, or FB.
  21. Stay safe everyone. Sleep awaits... I hope.
  22. Checking in with everyone during this crisis. Let us know if you're okay. Support is just a post away. Please keep politics and BS out of this so we can keep this open to everyone.
  23. Thank you, all! Hope everyone is safely snuggled in their homes avoiding the world. Oh, never mind. That's our status quo as miniature collectors, painters, builders, and collectors. As you were then.
  24. Wire Tree Scratch Built The Twist One Friday evening as we played Batman: Talisman I twisted a tree to life. Formed from 13 strands of wire of approximately 12-inches in length, the tree takes shape by folding them in half and twisting the loop created into the trunk of the tree. The loop created is cut into the roots and the longer tendrils are twisted into limbs and branches to form the crown of the tree. As you can see in the picture, I used one of my Armstrong sample tiles to make a base for the roots and glued it in place with some Loctite Gel Glue. The idea is to form irregular surfaces to cover and create the illusion of a real trunk, roots and limbs. The crown will kind of solve itself when the canopy is applied later. The Ground and Bark Once you have a "skeleton" for the tree, it's time to add the skin. To do this there are a number of ways. You can use liquid latex. You can apply green putty or green stuff. I chose to do the super glue and baking soda method. You've probably seen my work with this insta-cure method before on Frulla Krung and other Frost Giants. I use super thin, insta-cure cyanoacrylate (super glue) that allows it to run well over the wires and base and then coat that with the baking soda. The squeeze bottle, shown in the background, allows me to apply it as a wind blown sediment or just to dust it over the glue. The opposite can be done where you make a pile of baking soda or fill the crevice you want covered and apply the super glue carefully so you don't get an impact crater. Of course, maybe you want impact craters. As you can see above, the effect is quite "chilling." Be careful of fumes. It's still super glue. And super-thin super glue runs everywhere so I suggest putting down something you don't care about. I use box lids. The Crown Once you have the coating applied to your liking, it's time to finalize the branches and make the crown. Here's where random is your friend. Twist the strands into limbs and then twist off the limbs into branches. You can create burls and broken limb ends by adding sharp turns with your pliers. In this case, I left the crown relatively open. It's a small, young tree after all. You can see another much older tree in the works behind it below. Our specimen is primed as well. I added curlicues at the ends of the branches to eat some excess wire and for extra hook points for the canopy. The Canopy The next step after this is to paint the trunk. I used a pair of FolkArt Pickling Washes to achieve this. The first was a dark gray, FolkArt Stormy Sky. To add body to the paint in order to help fill some of the wire gaps, I mixed in some Liquitex Matte Medium. Once the basecoat was applied. I drybrushed the trunk, roots and limbs with FolkArt Cottage White Pickling Wash mixed with some of the Stormy Sky mixture. This gave me a nice light ashen color to the bark. The canopy is made from Woodland Scenics Tree Canopy Green and Yellow mixed with essentially some static grass I got off of Wish. I mixed them into my Hamilton Beech Grinder and ground them down further. You'll prolly have noted that there are some wires visibly still. This has been noted. I ran out of mixed canopy. I will be making another batch shortly to finish it. I used a spritz bottle of glue from Dollar Tree to apply the canopy. It worked really well. Once it was set, I used my favorite finish coat to solidify the canopy, Testors Dullcote. What's Left That's where it's at as of now. As to next, I will be doing a wash of the canopy to add shading to the tree. That will carry down the trunk and roots. Then I will apply an umber paint to the ground and a mixture of cork and bark, ground down in my grinder, over that. Stay tuned, Stay Well and Enjoy
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