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JackMann

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by JackMann

  1. Painted up an old mini I've had forever. Pretty much just slapped some GW contrast paints on him, with a few metallics (Vallejo Gunmetal and Chrome), and some Reaper Walnut Brown for the eyes.
  2. Proto-mammals! Therapsids were a group of synapsids that were outcompeted by the early dinosaurs, leaving only the smaller, nocturnal specimens alive. These evolved into mammals, and thence us.
  3. They will work just fine over a white or light gray primer. The primers GW makes for them work fine over Bones without the tackiness a lot of other primers have. If you use an airbrush, Vallejo primer works just fine (though I've heard some people have had issues with Stylnylrez).
  4. I remember taking a class at Reapercon on painting white and black. The biggest piece of advice I took away is that when you're painting white, your midtone is going to be the same as your highlight if you want to have it look like a pure white. That is, if you would normally paint 20% of the area shadow, 60% midtone, and 20% highlight, for white you would paint 80% white and 20% shadows. This helps avoid the issue where your white reads as "gray" or "blue." Black works much the same way, except that your shadow and midtone will be the same, so 80% black and 20% highlights..
  5. Walnut brown remains an indispensable part of my toolkit. It's great for off-blacks and for basing browns. Linen white is the same for off-white. Together they're perfect for painting eyes. Bloodstain red is a very nice dark red. It's very useful because it has good coverage, and brighter reds paint over it well. This can make it much, much easier to paint reds than if you start with your bright red first, and it gives a nice shadow to your reds to help the midtones and highlights look brighter.
  6. Triads are a nice shortcut. They're not necessary, and if you put in the work for color theory you can get nicer results without them, but sometimes you just want to be able to grab three paints and know they'll work together.
  7. Yeah, the contrast paints don't do vehicles too well. with all the flat panels. For best results, use vertical, downward strokes with your brush.
  8. It was a joke by, I think, one of the Pughs. Anne has a board in her paint lab with the names of paints that need to be made. At one point during the first Kickstarter, when she (like everyone at Reaper) was frazzled and trying to get everything done in time to ship out rewards, one of them added the name to the board with all the other paints she had to make. And then it was made into an actual paint for Reapercon.
  9. That's legal in the US too! So long as the bill can still circulate, it's fine. It's only if you defaced it to a degree where you could no longer reasonably spend it. Amusingly, Canada's laws are almost reversed from the US. There is no law against burning paper currency, but defacing coins is illegal.
  10. Note that this applies strictly to coins. Paper money is governed by section 333, which is much stricter. Mind you, I don't believe anyone has been prosecuted under this section unless it was part of an attempt to counterfeit bills.
  11. Blood Angels Red and Iyanden Yellow are both pretty good. The flesh colors (Guilliman, Darkoath and Fyreslayer) give good effects. Skeleton Horde is great for old bone. Snakebite leather is pretty useful.
  12. Sorry to double post, but I wanted to let you guys know that the squog shaman remains untacky, so it looks like the GW primer works just fine on Bones.
  13. I suspect that they won't work untreated. But a quick layer of brush-on sealer should do as a "primer." Might be worth giving a go.
  14. Pretty terrible, at least if you go from black to white. Starting with a medium gray to white might work a bit better.
  15. I think your best chance of making this work would be to paint the model normally with some sharp highlights. Hit it with a coat of gloss. Then hit strategic parts (ends of tentacles, the mouth, etc.) with some sort of fake goo. The single-part water effects would work nicely. Alternately, if you can get your hands on some Uhu glue, that can also work. I strongly recommend playing around with the goo on something else before actually using it on the mini, so you have an idea of how it would react. The goal is to have most of the mini just be glossy and wet-looking, so your paint jo
  16. Sorry for the double post, but here's the mini! EDIT: I'll check it over the next few days for any tackiness, but no problems so far.
  17. Sharp, white highlights and a gloss finish would probably go a long way to selling the effect.
  18. Sprayed a sacrificial Bones mini with the wrathbone. No issues so far, but we'll see if any crop up after I get it painted up and sealed. Of course, I could just use the airbrush to put some vallejo or stylnylrez on it, but this is for Science!
  19. Here you go! Entirely done with contrast paints. Not the greatest paintjobs, but for the amount of time it took, not bad either. The black-as-metal isn't very convincing, but I think a drybrush of gunmetal over it would work fairly well. Some minimal shading/highlighting would make these look fairly nice. I don't think they entirely eliminate the need for other paints, even when doing basic tabletop jobs. But I definitely think they have potential to speed things up quite a bit.
  20. Tried 'em out today. Wasn't hugely impressed with ork flesh. I'll give it a few more goes, but I may stick with my current recipe. I think it might still be useful as a glaze, but it was a bit too splotchy and uneven for my tastes, even over an ork's skin. Warp Lightning worked all right on a grot pretty well, though. Iyandan Yellow and Blood Angel Red worked fairly well. One coat, and I had a nice, relatively even yellow and red respectively. I'll probably use those even when I'm not speed-painting, just with some bloodstain red in the shadows and going up a bit in highlights. Granted, it's a
  21. https://www.reapermini.com/faq#store5 This needs to be updated, then, since it still lists $35 as the free shipping threshold.
  22. Yeah, that's something I've seen from people using the paints. If you have overlap between two colors, you have to paint over it with the wraithbone or grey seer to fix it.
  23. I think it's going to be useful at both ends of the painting spectrum. Painters on the low side are going to be able to use it to knock out minis to a tabletop standard more quickly, and pros are already finding interesting ways to take advantage of its properties.
  24. See, I'm the opposite. The small details never take me all that long, but the bigger parts of the model always take me much longer. I think because I enjoy doing the small details, but the bigger parts are much more tedious.
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