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Posts posted by JackMann

  1. On 7/6/2019 at 7:23 PM, 72moonglum said:

    The bottom one is the therapsid, which I really have no idea what that means. I’m going to have to do a little bit of prehistoric investigation. Thank Odin for the Internet!

    Proto-mammals! Therapsids were a group of synapsids that were outcompeted by the early dinosaurs, leaving only the smaller, nocturnal specimens alive. These evolved into mammals, and thence us.

    • Like 2
  2. On 7/7/2019 at 4:46 PM, Inarah said:


    Ah.  If I have to paint them first then the product isn't really saving me any time.  I was hoping they'd work right on primer. 

    They will work just fine over a white or light gray primer. The primers GW makes for them work fine over Bones without the tackiness a lot of other primers have. If you use an airbrush, Vallejo primer works just fine (though I've heard some people have had issues with Stylnylrez).

  3. I remember taking a class at Reapercon on painting white and black. The biggest piece of advice I took away is that when you're painting white, your midtone is going to be the same as your highlight if you want to have it look like a pure white. 


    That is, if you would normally paint 20% of the area shadow, 60% midtone, and 20% highlight, for white you would paint 80% white and 20% shadows. This helps avoid the issue where your white reads as "gray" or "blue." Black works much the same way, except that your shadow and midtone will be the same, so 80% black and 20% highlights..

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  4. Walnut brown remains an indispensable part of my toolkit. It's great for off-blacks and for basing browns. Linen white is the same for off-white. Together they're perfect for painting eyes. 


    Bloodstain red is a very nice dark red. It's very useful because it has good coverage, and brighter reds paint over it well. This can make it much, much easier to paint reds than if you start with your bright red first, and it gives a nice shadow to your reds to help the midtones and highlights look brighter.



    • Like 9
  5. It was a joke by, I think, one of the Pughs. Anne has a board in her paint lab with the names of paints that need to be made. At one point during the first Kickstarter, when she (like everyone at Reaper) was frazzled and trying to get everything done in time to ship out rewards, one of them added the name to the board with all the other paints she had to make. 


    And then it was made into an actual paint for Reapercon.

    • Like 1
  6. That's legal in the US too! So long as the bill can still circulate, it's fine. It's only if you defaced it to a degree where you could no longer reasonably spend it.


    Amusingly, Canada's laws are almost reversed from the US. There is no law against burning paper currency, but defacing coins is illegal.

  7. Note that this applies strictly to coins. Paper money is governed by section 333, which is much stricter.



    Whoever mutilates, cuts, defaces, disfigures, or perforates, or unites or cements together, or does any other thing to any bank bill, draft, note, or other evidence of debt issued by any national banking association, or Federal Reserve bank, or the Federal Reserve System, with intent to render such bank bill, draft, note, or other evidence of debt unfit to be reissued, shall be fined under this title or imprisoned not more than six months, or both.


    Mind you, I don't believe anyone has been prosecuted under this section unless it was part of an attempt to counterfeit bills.

  8. 3 hours ago, TheAuldGrump said:

    Hmmm, has anyone tried them over the translucent Bones? I am thinking that a water elemental with green over the translucent blue might do for a algae stained water elemental.


    The Auld Grump - coincidentally, I have a water elemental on my To Be Painted SoonTM desk... it's been there for a few months....

    I suspect that they won't work untreated. But a quick layer of brush-on sealer should do as a "primer." Might be worth giving a go.

  9. I think your best chance of making this work would be to paint the model normally with some sharp highlights. Hit it with a coat of gloss. Then hit strategic parts (ends of tentacles, the mouth, etc.) with some sort of fake goo. The single-part water effects would work nicely. Alternately, if you can get your hands on some Uhu glue, that can also work. I strongly recommend playing around with the goo on something else before actually using it on the mini, so you have an idea of how it would react.


    The goal is to have most of the mini just be glossy and wet-looking, so your paint job isn't lost, with enough bits of goo to sell the idea.

  10. Here you go!




    Entirely done with contrast paints. Not the greatest paintjobs, but for the amount of time it took, not bad either. The black-as-metal isn't very convincing, but I think a drybrush of gunmetal over it would work fairly well. Some minimal shading/highlighting would make these look fairly nice.


    I don't think they entirely eliminate the need for other paints, even when doing basic tabletop jobs. But I definitely think they have potential to speed things up quite a bit.

    • Like 10
  11. Tried 'em out today. Wasn't hugely impressed with ork flesh. I'll give it a few more goes, but I may stick with my current recipe. I think it might still be useful as a glaze, but it was a bit too splotchy and uneven for my tastes, even over an ork's skin. Warp Lightning worked all right on a grot pretty well, though. Iyandan Yellow and Blood Angel Red worked fairly well. One coat, and I had a nice, relatively even yellow and red respectively. I'll probably use those even when I'm not speed-painting, just with some bloodstain red in the shadows and going up a bit in highlights. Granted, it's always easier over white, but I still tend to struggle to get my reds and yellows to paint evenly without starting at bloodstain red and working up, which is more work. Cygor Brown and Snakebite Leather both gave decent results. Not as good as a higher effort paint job, obviously, but still credible for tabletop. I've only used Skeleton Horde for teeth so far, but it looked pretty nice.


    Took me about forty-five minutes to have an ork and a grot mostly done. I'll need to pick out some more details once I'm done, but I'm pretty pleased with the results. I'll probably be using them a lot as I work to bring my ork army to completion.

    • Like 3
  12. 1 hour ago, Al Capwn said:


    I would also imagine that color correction is a bit more challenging too, if this is essentially underpainting/grisaille. I have found that opaque paints tend to be a bit easier to fix instead of the inherently translucent layers of washes and inks.

    Yeah, that's something I've seen from people using the paints. If you have overlap between two colors, you have to paint over it with the wraithbone or grey seer to fix it.

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