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Everything posted by Corporea

  1. I wasn't sure if I should post this in Show off or WIP, but I figured here and if you would please forgive the in progress parts in the subsequent post. Ron let me paint this lovely sculpt by Gene Van Horne. Actually, I think I might have begged to paint it and considered stealing it from his office if he refused. She'll be in the Greek Odyssey Expansion for Bones V. If by some miracle you have come to this forum and not heard of Bones V, it can be found here. Aaron Lovejoy was awesome and took some high definition photos of her after last Reapercon. I really love this sculpt, can't say that enough. She's got some fantastic detail, lots of good open space to work on blending or freehand, even a scenic base to play with stone effects. While I loved the original Yephima by Patrick Keith, and still use her in my classes, this one really screams warrior to me. I need to paint my bones version when I get it as Athena. I'll have to add a shield somewhere, though. Maybe convert the club to a spear. Decisions decisions. Anyway, feel free to ask questions. I'm happy to explain or help with anything! I'm going to post the WIP pictures I have in another post, so hopefully those will also be useful. Enjoy!
  2. I took a "short" break but I'm back! The model I'm using for reference has this fun sun-like spiral on the shoulder. I'm going to try to do something similar. I started by putting down a thick line of the red shadow, then coming back with the marigold yellow in the middle. It means I draw 2 lines, instead of three. I find it easier. This may be harder to see, but what I've done is take a damp brush and draw with water a faint line in the spiral I think I want. It leaves no trace on the mini if I change my mind, but gives me a guide to follow or at least more confidence to put down my spiral. Just be careful when putting paint over it that it isn't too wet or the paint can run away on you. There we go. Spiral! Now I want to make it more sun-like. In this case I did the yellow rays first, then outlined them. One may be easier for you than the other. Play around with shapes and lines and see what works best. ...and I got carried away and painted without taking a break. sigh. His eyebrows are sculpted different widths. I'm hoping it won't look too awkward. Anyway, more soon! I'm enjoying watching the kickstarter. Must stop following the ticker and get back to painting!
  3. so sorry for the delay- work has been busy. I didn't mean to keep you unanswered! yes! It's looking great! You've done a good job making the book the brightest point. If you want, push the light source just a bit near the book- maybe mix some yellow and white, not quite as bright. alternatively, dim the light on the dragon's face/tail. that will make it look like it is gradually dimming as it expands. otherwise it looks fantastic! I showed it to one of my lighting design friends and she thought it made sense from a light standpoint! Awesome!!
  4. ok progress! Well, I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but I had a really great excuse! Castelvania SOTN was the free xbox game the other month and I've never played it. It has an inverted castle?! What?! And just when I thought I was done with it. But in between Alucard and I getting our fitbit steps, I painted. First, here's my palette for the reds with the exception of red shadow: A trick I like to use with red is to go up to orange and then glaze something like clear red over the top of the yellow or orange areas. It allows the lighter value to show through, creating a highlight, but keeps it in the red family. I prefer orange reds over pink reds, but that's just a preference. Here's the other wing, minus the pattern. This is what I should have done to begin with in terms of highlighting. See how the edge highlighting helps define the volume of the feathers? Edge highlights can be placed near the end of the painting process the add some extra contrast. next I worked on redefining my pattern, I haven't done the final glaze in red yet. I'm going to wait and see how much contrast I need when he's all covered in patterns. And here's what it looks like with the two wings next to each other. So, in learning from my mistake, I added some extra highlighting to Mr Lion's face: Then I decided to tackle his ear: At each step I add a few geometric patterns. So the pattern may look complex, but is just a simple series of shapes. I got excited and tackled his eye ridges and forgot to take pictures, but since I had the other one to do it worked out. And here he is at present:
  5. is the book your light source? if so, paint it mostly white and put the yellow only the sides of the pages and part of the plinth as cast color. the brightest point for osl needs to be the light source, so I'd glaze over the white areas on the bones and the figure as they may not be quite as bright as the book. Remember that light is a sphere and as it expands, the light dims and lessens. I see where you've put the shadow behind him- that helps sell the effect of the lights direction. but there may be a bit of reflected light a little closer to him- not yellow, but the mauve color. Is this a spell effect where the bones are glowing instead? Right now the front reads oddly because the bones glow but the surrounding ground is not as lit, which would not make sense for the flow of light- since it travels in a straight line. It makes it look like the light is jumping. I'd probably pick the book as the source and carry the light effect to the ground almost all the way behind the book, into that mauve range as you get behind the book. It would still cast some light behind it. Here's a color saturation removed photo of the mini. See how the book and the light on the ground in 2 lines are fairly equal in saturation? Cast light is not as bright as the source. The way we manage this is to glaze over the cast light with color and remove some of the light reflected to our eyes, lowering the value. Does that make sense? Now, you'll be thinking wait! But then it won't be as bright, right? It won't look lighter than the rest of the mini! The secret is both in using light AND in using darker shadow/lower value to contrast. It's frustrating, and I've been there with nice happy colors and had to darken them all to better sell the light effect. This means using some dark, almost black on the parts behind the mini, especially if they are directly behind the cast light, like you have behind him. He can still have some "ambient light" allowing his bones to be highlighted, but see if you can find some areas to darken. this will help sell the effect. I think the main thing is playing with where you want the light on the ground and that will help sell the light effect. See in this Matchmaker painting, how the guy is completely dark? The light right next to him renders only a few highlights at his edges. Now, areas further away will be more subject to ambient light, so you don't have to kill the lovely purple bones completely. Just in a few areas. :) Sorry, that's a lot. But it really is looking spectacular and I love the colors soooo much! Keep up the great work!
  6. Fantastic work with the osl! It’s looking awesome!
  7. cork sheets work great. I did the stairs on our diorama with cork and covered the edges with apoxie to make the stone shapes. I get the quartet cork tiles on amazon (12 x 12), they come in a pack of 4 and are about 1/4 inch thick I think. they stack great and you can cut and tear them to any size you want. they look like stone even without the apoxie.
  8. Thanks guys! Sanael- this mini's eyes are huuuge, so I have a lot of space to work with. With busts, where they're a bit smaller, I'll sometimes work out to in. it's generally a lot of pushing and pulling back and forth until I have the shading where I want. GrnLantern- yeah, I find it makes more sense to folks if I do a step by step. I often forget to take enough in progress pics, though. Nos4ah2- One thing that helps with patterns and brush control is to start with a darker color and then reclaim some of the space with your lighter color. It is hard to draw a thin straight line, but much easier to clean up a line by placing another color close to it. Hmmn, I have a mid-stage of my giantess cloak: The pattern was a bunch of circle with criss-crossing lines connecting it. You can see where I've drawn it in in the dark color, then come back with my light color in the middle. I also spend a lot of time cleaning up the edges with the yellow. you can see touch up areas above the pattern and inside the circles. The more you simplify the pattern, the easier it becomes. Don't be afraid to clean it with the back ground color. No pattern is placed perfectly the first time. Well, maybe if you're DKS... l often draw things out on paper to make sure I have them right as well.
  9. ... The larch? Heh. No, but I want to try something very different from my preferred style in order to branch out and try new things. I recently watched Coco (um... several times) and took a liking to the alebrijes, especially Pepita. I really want Reaper to make a Pepita. So this is my way of showing how fun it could be! The plan: A chibi lion with patterns like the traditional Oaxacan Alebrijes. This means fun bright colors and an attempt at making a piece look like wooden folk art. It can be done! First step, research. ...and my personal favorite: Perfect! I wanted to practice red anyway. I ended up choosing red shadow, dragon red, big top red, seoni scarlet, volcanic orange, marigold yellow and sun yellow as my colors. Second step is to pick a mini. I supported Impact's kickstarter quite awhile ago and almost forgot I had this fellow. It's the Venetian Lion. I set forth in an effort to prep the mini. Um... it took a lot of prep. I decided to go ahead and attach one wing at the risk of making the body harder to paint. I sanded for about half a day then filled in all the bubbles and sculpted one set of claws. Er, I'm hoping their QC has improved since the kickstarter, because this piece took almost a day to prep. Oddly, I think the 3D print went into the mold un-sanded and with texture, because the large surfaces had a texturing I associate with those prints. It took several layers of sealer to smooth. But, I finally got him primed. Isn't he cute! Next, I basecoated with red shadow. why red shadow, you ask? Because red is awful at coverage because of its translucency. So, basecoat with a red brown. This will save you frustration down the road. Next, layer with dragon red. Leave a few areas of the red shadow as deepest shadows. Here's where I had to decided to commit to the wooden/statue route, because a real lion would have a darker back and a pale belly, whereas a figure in top-down light would be the opposite. Still not red? Never fear! Also, put a lot of layers of each step. Lots and lots of layers. Next step big top red. Next, seoni scarlet. I like this color. It's super intense. Very shiny. Except it's matte, but you know what I mean. Boom! Now we're in the red zone. Now, I need eyes. A miniature is lifeless until we add eyes. I like doing them early because they often help guide the rest of the project. I basecoated the eyes with marigold yellow. Then shaded the edges with volcanic orange. Then I added some sun yellow to the center. Even a chibi eye can afford some shading, otherwise the socket looks too flat. After that, I drew in the iris shape. I used red shadow and added a pupil of nightshade purple. When I was happy with the shape and balance, I filled in the eye with some terra nova tundra and more of the yellows. Excellent! I also mixed a bit of linen white into the yellow just at the edge of the iris ring. Here's a front view: Last step in eyes if adding the white reflection. I used pure white for contrast. So he's sort of a demonic cute lion. It could work, right? Then I wanted to try out wing patterns. For the last 3 days I've been wanting to get to the fun part, so I forged ahead and rushed to this step. As it turns out, that was an error, but it worked out in the end. I think. Ok, the key to freehand is breaking down a pattern into something simple. I started with circles. Filled in the circles and added some teardrop lines. added some more lines. and on and on... Until I felt like I was getting closer to pattern. It was then I realized the wing looked way to flat and dull. I needed more shading. What I should have done was make the feather lighter near the origin to add more contrast. So I glazed over the pattern. I'll just have to pick it back up again after I'm done with the shading. Here's the wing with the shading. I'll touch it up a bunch, then rework the pattern. But I think I like it better with the change in contrast. We'll see. I can always paint over it. Sigh. That will teach me to skip to the fun stuff. More later! As always, feel free to ask questions!
  10. I always bring index cards for each of my entries and fill them out ahead of time. This year I put it off until I got to the convention, but I've saved myself some stress by doing it before I leave home in the past. On one I put my name and email, because they need that to enter us in the system. On all the others I put: 1. Title of Entry 2. Manufaturer (ex reaper, darksword, etc) 3. Category (ex open, painters...) 4. Special award status (ex mousling, pink, chibi, etc) I hand them to the Awesome Debbie. She usually smiles at me. This saves time and ensures my entries are spelled right (when I come up with funny titles...)
  11. This is a different field, but I think the concept may be a good one. My best friend is a handbell ringer. She's probably the best musician I know, so much so that when we were stand partners once for a violin exhibition, I sank lower in my chair and tried to hide, wondering how she could stand to listen to my attempts at music... At any rate, she got into a top ringing choir and rang for them for years. Each year she'd "re-audition," and during the audition would ask each time for just one thing to work on that year; something to improve on or an area of focus where the director felt she was weak. She'd spend the year practicing extra on that one thing. I don't know if that would help, but maybe just thinking of a single thing you want to practice might make the process more relaxing.
  12. Larger minis tend to take more time. We pour more hours into them. If I were to spend an equal amount of time on a small figure and a dragon, and then enter them in the competition, the dragon would not be scored, because it would be an inferior paint job. I should, in theory, spend much more time on the larger piece because I have that much more area to cover. Even if I pull out my super speed painting tricks and mix my colors directly on the mini, I'll still not be able to paint it to the same standard as a smaller mini. It's just a question of surface area and time. I agree with what's been said- I really love your patterns and the vibrancy you bring to your work. It's insanely creative and joyful to see. There is no reason to change that. I don't think it's that blander models are chosen because we don't like bright colors, but that many artists choose desaturated colors because it's what they see others doing or what they're comfortable with, or even a result of tendencies to use white to highlight, which will naturally desaturate the colors. I don't think that's a better thing, just a different style. No reason to change your style at all! Just keep working on your blending. That's the thing that take painters from bronze to silver to gold. Just more time. Large models when I put effort into them, take me many months to finish. I also know that in my efforts to improve, I've had to push myself out of my comfort zone to learn. I've had to take classes, teach classes, practice things that I didn't think I could do, paint paint paint and then repeat all those things again to another level. I've pushed myself to tears with some techniques because they just didn't click or come naturally to me. I did it because I wanted to, not because I had to. Or maybe because I'm slightly masochistic, who knows. Point being, if you have the desire to improve, the best way to do so is to try new and hard things. Just like learning to ride a bike and falling down a lot. It isn't much fun, but it's the only way I know of to muscle through the barriers. If you're happy where you, are, change nothing! Keep doing what makes you happy. This is our hobby after all! We're supposed to have fun and enjoy it. If it becomes work and not fun, only you can decide if that's worth it. Outside opinions don't matter in the end. I get that we all need positive reinforcement, which is why I love our forum, because I can always count on a "good job" if I need a pick me up. But we have to love ourselves and what we do to find our true happiness. Be you, be happy, be full of life and keep being awesome. PS: I love your dragons.
  13. Given that monday is a holiday, what's the thought on doing reapercon from friday through monday instead of thursday through sunday? just curious. I take off work no matter what!
  14. I did not know about the rocks but have now placed 2 nice lava rocks from Iceland in my bag. If you need a rock, first come, first serve! Find me at my desk!
  15. ok... so some stuff has made it into the suitcase and I kicked the cat back out of it as he is not coming with me. Clothes are packed at least. I think I'll be packed for classes and miniature-wise before my flight tomorrow. I keep waffling between I'm so ready and I'm not ready at all! Ahhhhhh! Reapercon!!! Also, I successfully killed the wasps in the rosebush without being stung. Go me!
  16. linen white is a warm white. Mahogany brown can work well with olive skin as a shadow and it is a bit warmer. If you wanted something close to black that's warm you could use red shadow.
  17. you might be able to put a layer of sealer, like a brush-on gloss sealer over top of it. sometimes that is enough to smooth out the texture. try that and put another glaze layer over it to see if it softens. if not, I'd sand/file and repaint. Many a time have I had to file and repaint... sympathy!
  18. I too suffer from depression. My real job work can be very stressful, so mini painting is supposed to be my fun hobby that sparks my creativity and makes me feel like I accomplish something. But, I'm a perfectionist, so I'm never satisfied with anything I do. I always see the flaws in everything. It's important to take a step back when the process gets you down and remember its supposed to be fun. If it isn't, I change it up. I stop working on the "hard" project where I'm pushing myself out of my comfort zone, and just speed paint something. Or sculpt some basing bits. Or plan my next project. Anything to keep me loving my hobby and not focusing on the hard stuff. When I'm ready, I can come back with new energy and tackle the mountain. That being said, all minis are ugly until they reach that final nebulous finished stage where it all comes together. I say this in all seriousness. As we paint, we're chipping away at the marble around the final form. And it isn't going to look right until we're done. So don't lose heart that it isn't where you envision it in your head. It takes layers and time to get to the stage where we're happy. When I finally finish a project I'm usually relieved to be done, but if I look at it from a distance, I can feel some pride that I struggled through a hard process and made it to the finish line. You can do it. It's hard, but worth it.
  19. you can do it! If you're going to go with the toad scheme, I'd soften the transition between the back and front colors. The newt has a distinct light/dark constrast line, but the toads's is smoother and more gradual. I guess it's a matter of what you like, but softer transitions feel more natural to me. I think a bright green might be too much since you have such a saturated red. To sell the toxic effect, I'd go with a color closer on the wheel to the red (analagous) like a bright yellow or orange. That would make it look "scary" but wouldn't be quite so intense a contrast. It will also be easier since they're in the same family to blend and you won't have to work so hard! You got this!!!
  20. put me on the list! I'll bring my specs. Andy, you've got my number? Never seen either a roadrunner or the painted bunting so that would be awesome!!
  21. Thanks guys!! Haldir, I'll make sure to bring her from year to year. No worries! Pingo- yay! They are supposed to be henna. I had fun playing with the patterns!
  22. ask for a corner space/seat! I'm sure that's doable. I'm glad at least you have some answers. Hang in there.
  23. Howdy folks! I think I've mostly finished this lady. She's Athena from FeR miniatures. She's a fantastic sculpt and was a joy to paint. I always see things I want to touch up, but I'm happy with her overall. I had a good deal of fun trying out new skintones. My WIP is here, with the color information and step by step. My intention was to do something completely different from the usual Greek Athena, so I went with a more eastern theme! If you have questions let me know! I'll bring her to Reapercon. Enjoy!
  24. I love it! Great work with the skin. Say... where does one acquire such a flat?
  25. So... I finished him, but while I was working, I did take some in progress photos which I thought I'd post here first. Extra special thanks to the Worldwide Miniature Day idea, because it did the following: Painting desk, meet butt. Nice painting desk. Comfy chair. That's right. Now paint! WWMD gave me the added incentive to sit down and paint all weekend. I got a good bit done and felt productive. I've worked on my setup over the last few years and have arranged to have most everything I need within reach. There's an ikea bookshelf on the right side out of the picture where all the paint and the rest of the tools sit. I can swivel but rarely have to get up to get things. It makes me more efficient. I debate whether I have too much light sometimes, but I'm getting older, so need all the help I can get. What I do instead is hold the mini under the desk away from the light to make sure the contrast holds up in dimmer light from time to time. On to the Wip! First, I attached Mr Wizard. I decided he needed to be more than a single focus, so I added the two skulls. Mr Wizard comes with a foliage sort of base, which wasn't going to work for my theme, so I took some apoxie and made him a stone base. Then I made two more tiny ones and stuck the skulls on. The skulls are from Secret Weapon. I tried to make it loo like he had a little circle of safety around him in paint. Can't be summoning monsters without some protection from the coming apocalypse. I also repainted him from purple to the red/green scheme, to fit him in. I'd originally planned to do purple/green, but felt like the other colors called to me and had to change midway. Never be afraid to change color schemes. Change is good. I mixed up a few step to my color gradients to make it easier to do the blending. I don't have to work as hard when I do that. As you can see, there is a green gradient using the okavango and the slime colors and then in the middle row there's the red to slime mix. I like that, because you can see how it is a bit browner, but still very high value. Notice on the right from top to bottom how the slime is still the highest value/brightest color. Mixing a complement such as red into my green knocks it down in value. I really like the color the red/green mix makes, so I ended up using it a lot. I painted for a bit, working on the monster's mouth, making it look more pink and fleshy. I like how the pink blends in with the nebula behind Mr Monster. I spent a good bit of time on the tentacles, trying to get a smooth blend between the red and green. Then I remembered I had to add another tentacle! For this is used greenstuff because I wanted it smoother. I tend to use milliput or apoxie for big chunks of things and greenstuff for detail work. For really big projects I still use fimo or sculpey because it's just cheaper. There isn't one tool I feel fits all projects, probably because I'm frugal and insist on saving money! That's the new tentacle all blended in. Also, I added some freehand on the outside of the base. I felt it needed another point of interest. It's supposed to be a black hole but I think it looks more like an eye which is fine. ...and then I got to painting and forgot to take any more in progress shots. Sigh. I'll post in show off soon, and I think I have few more angles but that's the basic project. It was fun! I learned a lot about the colors I used while playing with them and experimenting with transitions. I think that dungeon slime is an awesome highlight, and one of my new favorite colors. I enjoy playing with bending reality and mixing 2 and 3D elements. This was a good project for that and involved me doing some thinking and plotting to make sure the composition worked out ok. In hindsight I would move a few of the tentacles to better positions to make it tighter. At any rate, if you have questions let me know! Thanks for hanging out with me!
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