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Everything posted by Corporea

  1. this article from reaper's the craft index is good and has a lot of troubleshooting tips. I bought envirotex lite, which is used mainly for finishing surfaces, but it mixes and pours just fine and it's nice and cheap. When I first played with it, I started small and mixed a few tiny batches in blister packs. I've never poured very deep, but I've always poured in one layer. One key is keeping dust away from the project while it dries, which can take days depending on the depth before it is fully cured. Most things I do have a bit of paint mixed int he water, so I can't tell you if it yellows with age or not.
  2. Everyone did such wonderful work. You guys should all be proud! Thanks for making it tough on us!!
  3. I have a request! As Christie is learning, I wish to beg her to continue to sculpt with the understanding that someday someone will want to paint her creations. This may not be the correct place to discuss this, but there isn't a thread on digital sculpting that I can find quickly. Having bought minis from a bunch of companies and watched a trend towards the new medium of digital design, I have discovered something frustrating. When some sculptors play with the program, they change the proportion size of the head and hands to something approaching real anatomy. This makes sense, and as someone who loves anatomy, I should approve of the realism. But in truth... I HATE THIS!!!! Ahem. I need to make a new years resolution to try to lessen my emotional outbursts. What I mean, is that while it looks pretty on screen and looks just like a nice miniature person, it will translate to being incredibly difficult to paint. If the proportions are exaggerated, it is much easier to put detail in the face that adds a great deal of personality to the figure. I won't name company names, but I've decided not to paint a good bit of my collection because it just becomes frustrating to put the detail I'd like into a piece. I've bought pieces based on 3-d models and been disappointed when they arrive in hand. It has made me wary of digital sculpts in general. I've painted enough to realize what I do and don't like when it comes to sculpting style. This is something I wish I'd discovered earlier, so I wanted to share it. It may not be anatomically correct to increase the head size, eye ratio, hand size, etc, but I will love to paint it more and thus buy it. Just my 2 cents on a business model...
  4. Hey! I'm super scary! Scary I tell you! Rawr!!! hee hee!
  5. I've been sick. I had this great plan to do a WIP but wimped out and have just been plugging along. I have next weekend off, so I should be able to finish up then. Never fear my partner! Mini will be done soon! Happy new year!
  6. Also, don't worry. It's not like Dragon Con where the hotel(s) sells out right away. We had plenty of space last year at the new convention center. I'd expect with the upcoming Kickstarter fulfillment, the website update and new links may take some time as well.
  7. ok, that's a pretty sweet technique! Looks perfect! Also: huh- I was always a fan of Peterson's. Will have to check Sibley's. Happy New Year!
  8. Nice! I love the basing and the accent colors are perfect- that brown/blue combo is lovely! congrats on finishing them!!
  9. ...debating how to do a Hawaiian pattern to the cloak. Bobby! No Hawaiian shirt?! How'm I supposed to do hibiscus patterned armor?! I didn't notice the pug on the metal pic. That's so awesome! Also, the expression is perfect. The eyebrow!! Yup, will have to try to pick up a resin. edit: Jason's hair is mostly gray now. Distinguished and wise!
  10. yeah, I was going to wait till the 17th, but... hey, looks like I need more minis sooner!
  11. random plug for charity: our FLGS is hosting Dungeons and Donations for our local children's hospital. We have 3 hours left in our 24 hour marathon of gaming featuring the classic Encounter at Barrier Peak. We're live on twitch and the main page is here. Feel free to donate- must rescue the children! Also... you can Bane or Boon the players. It's awfully fun to hit them with random acts of cruelty! The death counter is currently at 26.
  12. see, if my work had language filters like that I'd never get anything done... They are looking fantastic!!! That raven is awesome... remind me later when this kickstarter is occurring or when they are at retail! Great job, Andy!
  13. I never really prime my bones. I do wash them with soap and water, but I generally just lay down a basecoat. The liner trick can be a good one if you're having trouble with the white plastic in terms of seeing the details, since it collects better in crevices. Bones white plastic is hard to see detail otherwise. The main key when putting your first layer of paint or primer is to make sure it isn't thinned. Just straight out of the bottle, otherwise the bones plastic, being slightly hydrophobic, will keep it from covering well. Wren's article are stellar on this topic. Definitely worth checking out. They should be pinned at the top of the Bones subtopic index
  14. Depends on the color, but I usually basecoat a midtone then do all the shading and highlighting with the lines. In the case of the red above (because red does not cover well,) I basecoated mahogany and then worked up.
  15. use texture. A crosshatch technique would work. You alternate vertical and horizontal lines to get the rough textured pattern. like this: Done with very fine lines, the texture may vanish and the blend will look smoother. If you leave more space between your lines you can get a rougher texture. You can also shade and highlight with this, just using your other colors and working in brighter and darker shades. This works well with a lot of different textured fabrics. Have fun! It's a fussy technique. Don't be afraid to keep going over it with more lines. As long as the paint is thinned, you can play with the lines to your heart's content! Here's what I did with the cape of my giant mouseling:
  16. My cat jumped on my computer and somehow one of my files ceased to exist. I tried everything, including calling my computer guru friends, but alas, 3400 words gone. Bad kitty. No cookie. So, I spent today on the couch replacing those words and the ones due for today. While my word count only reads that I'm meeting my goal, I have achieved 3400 more than that. Of course, I have done nothing else today, I feel like a complete couch potato and am cranky as all get out and now I hate my novel with passion because the new words are not the ones I wrote before and I can't remember those words and am fairly certain the new ones aren't as good... run on sentence must STOP! Ahem. Yes. At any rate, I am back on track and will find a way to triple back up everything. Sigh. Don't let it happen to you, fellow NANOers. Don't babysit your neighbor's kitten! Beware!
  17. yes- chopstick in rice bowl bad ju ju. brings bad luck and reminiscent in Japan of funerary offering. They look great!!!
  18. I'll miss his cameos especially. Condolences and positive thoughts to his loved ones.
  19. it's hard this year. I hit a wall and decided to skip forward to some scenes I already have planned out. That helped. I may continue to do that, though I may have to rewrite them later if the characters don't want to follow my planned plot. Why is it that it always sounds right in my head, but when I put it on paper it's just different? I swear they have minds of their own those pesky people!
  20. Yes- the only requirements for the contest are that you not have entered your project in a past reapercon. you can otherwise enter in any other contest and show as many WIPs anywhere that you'd like!
  21. Ok, so I think of scars like I think of nicks and breaks on swords for NMM. It has to do with the way the light bounces of surfaces. I borrowed this from google. See how one side of the scar looks light and the other side darker? That's a simple way to do it. draw a dark line, blend it in on one side and then paint a thin highlight on the other side. scars are a result of fibrous tissue formation under the skin that puckers or pulls the surface down. Usually. When a surface isn't smooth, it will reflect light in a more scattered fashion. That means we don't see the dips as well and some of the edges act as a much brighter highlight as the rest of the light gets scattered away from us. The long and short of that is paint it like it has a sharp edge. I'd start by painting and highlighting the skin, then add my scar and then glaze over it with my flesh color to blend it in just a bit. remember with the eye that the scar, if it's from a blade, will travel down the top of the forehead, skip over the eye socket to some degree (though if you intend it can nick the orb of the eye,) and then it picks up on the arch of bone under the eye. So they'll be a gap with absent scar based on the anatomy of the face. Here's and example from Kirill. Scars can be painted similarly to wrinkles. Not sure if that's what you were asking, but it's how I'd approach healed scars. Fresh ones are similar but ruddier and messier. It also depends what made the scar. Was it a sharp sword? Was it torn and the skin avulsed or pulled away from the surface? Was it abraded or sanded away by a skidding injury? I'd google facial scars and just surf as long as you don't mind looking at some graphic images.
  22. It's a beautiful page full of words! What more do we ask? :) Yeah- I'm puttering along in mine too. I'm doing a prequel to one of my previous stories. Today haven't started writing yet on account of family and laundry, but I'm at least meeting my daily goals so far. Whooo! We can do this! Best of luck to all and if anyone new is around, feel free to friend me over on Nano!
  23. doh! Almost missed this. Count me in! PM sent. Happy Holidays!
  24. One of the tricks to contrast if making sure you keep your midtone. So at least 50% if not 75% of the color should be your midtone- the color you want your viewer to see. The highlights and the shadows need to drive the value up and down to as much of an extreme as possible, BUT, they are narrow- meaning the take up little real estate. So forgive my weak photoshop, but I'm away from the painting desk. See how I've taken the green and gone up and down the value scale, but left most of the space "green." If you look at it from a distance, it will still look like my midtone. So in your examples, the high highlights and low shadows should take up very little space. One area I see to take a highlight on your demon hunter is the on the bikini top in the center of the top curve, place a small line of lighter color. I'm not sure it that helps.
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