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About Panzer_Engel

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    In midair, on solid ground.

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  1. Naturalistic, rather than 'chromatic' colour scheme? (Sorry, sucker for naturalistic schemes. By the way, if you need inspiration, Google some of John Sibbick's work)
  2. Like most of the pre-assembled bones, I think it's the luck of the draw. One of my Kaladraxi had half it's ribcage hanging off, the other had the usual gaps, but was otherwise perfectly fine.
  3. I find diamond files work far better than cross-cuts in terms of burring (If you're interested, I idly turned a nail-file on the original bones ghost. Don't knock it, it worked, and one set of cheap diamond fiiles later cleaning up bones has become far quicker) Other than that, scalpel, 10a blade, and slice, don't scrape.
  4. (And yes, hopefully back to stay this time. The last eight months have not been fun)
  5. (Innocently) Time to consider an airbrush, Oneboot?
  6. Yes. And there is little I can add, Argentee, except; Live. And in living honour the life that was.
  7. Enforcers/Van Saar would be my first suggestions. But you could always do something left-field, like field them as the local guilders' private 'security' using the arbites rules as a template, and whatever weapons fit seems to work. This would work paticularly well in a GM'd campaign; Any gangs that seem to be getting too sucessful may find the guilders own hit-squad dropping by to reassert the status quo. Half a dozen well-equipped arbites-equivalents, with full carapace and the best weaponry and wargear their master's connections can provide could be . . . Challenging. . .For even successful gangs.
  8. Hm. You say you had to remove the skin. If your Milliput has a definate hide on it, rather than the outside of the grey compound just being a brownish colour, then it sounds like it's old, or has been poorly stored, and is starting to dry out. Yes, grainy is normal, the texture when you work it should be like clay; Considerably stiffer and less plastic than green stuff. It's worth pointing out that different grades have different degrees of granularity - White milliput is the finest-grained, and if it's been smoothed with water while working can be polished to a porcelain finish when almost cured (I know someone who uses it to repair china dolls. . . .) If you're having problems getting it to stick to an armature, try dabbing the wire all over with freshly-mixed milliput, then wrap more around as Corporea suggests. Other tricks are dousing the armature with superglue (leave it to dry!) Or wrapping thinner wire around it. I also second MonkeySloths caution; Once Milliput is on, it's on, and is very difficult to get off. This also applies to any tools used to work it (and your fingers) So use plenty of water cleaning up. I would advise Milliput for anything structural, as it's just that much stronger than green stuff. It's also rigid enough to carve or file well, which has obvious aplications in under layers (and making your own swords, guns, machinery and the like)
  9. . . . . Ouch. (I now have the urge to ask you to sit down, while I make some tea. . . .) You want to see my preeetee books derie? (How did you know about our Call of Cuthulu adventure with the witch that sent us to the Triasic?) Hm. Sounds like Yūko. . . . Sending them to whenever seems a waste of potential. . . Recruits . .Though; New blood is always welcome.
  10. Civilian types in 'Clean room' or Biocon suits could have a number of applications for modern or sci-fi gamers, and could be made even more versatile if supplied with alternate heads - Facemasks, full respirators,etc, and possibly optional 'scrubber' backpacks.
  11. If you are going to try shrinking or expanding a mould, please do not use metal in the mould that results. Molten pewter and Toluene do not mix well.
  12. . . . And we're pleased to welcome someone who's evidently a man of wealth and taste. If it's Kaladrax.Then I agree. (And on the subject, thanks to Nocturne for the 'frost and rime' recipe, one of them will definately be an ice mummy)
  13. Milliput. Just; Milliput. And yes, if Nethyrmaul ever makes it over here, I will get yet another one, just so I can resurect her; This was discussed when the Kickstarter was still running. Plans will be made. Relatives will suffer a remorseless campaign of dropped hints come Birthday/Christmas. Whatever it takes. . . . (Um. . . Am I strange for already planning how these bones are going to be modified, before they even exist?)
  14. Apparently it's not that hard to build - Although I'm just repeating what I've been told . . . . If you haven't got access to vacum-forming equipment, and you don't fancy fibreglass mouldings, the easiest way to go is, apparently, with paper. No, really. Apparently the idea is to papercraft the basic forms - Models for most charicters that have appeared in a computer game are usually freely available on the web, as is the software to flatten the mesh, but this is only ever a starting point, because said models often use shortcuts or fudges that mean they don't always fit a real-world human form. This done, the templates are cut out of heavyweight paper, assembled into three dimensions, and over the next few days, given several coats of epoxy resin - The type they sell for use with fibreglass - Allowing it to soak into the fibres of the paper. Once sanded down (using all appropriate precautions) You should be left with a lightweight, surprisingly strong, shell. This is then lined with craft foam for comfort, fit, and extra durability. Paint, and detail as required.
  15. (Innocently) Any particular reason why not? Although, after all the discussion above, the idea of painting up a black unicorn as the mount for the leader of a unit of undead cavalry now has a certain morbid appeal. . . . Hmm. banshee or another vampire as the rider? . . . .And wasn't there discussion about a spectral calliope?
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