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About rright0102

  • Birthday 01/02/1964

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  • Location
    Lemont IL
  • Interests
    RPG, painting miniatures, woodworking

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  1. I have not seen anything in KS to indicate either assembled or not; but then there is a lot of text out there :) The vampire set contains mostly medium figs, which could be one piece. But most of the larger add ons are likely multi piece casts. Hopefully at least those will come in pieces. Certainly, I do not think anyone expects KS Sophie to be a single cast item.
  2. I bought some bones and upon close examination found that some were multi part casts preassembled. Mine were assembled poorly. The bugbear had a large gap where the head was attached and the gnoll's shield was improperly attached, the straps were sticking out. Some crazy glue, clamps and filler fixed this. I think Reaper could save some money and time by shipping the Kickstarter pieces unassembled. I personally like to assemble miniatures. This also allows for some variety in the poses, it also allows me to paint some parts prior to assembly. Though painting assembled bones is easier because you can bend back parts to get at hard to reach areas.
  3. tell me more Check out http://www.alumilite.com/ they have kits used for different hobbies. From jewelry making to model railroading. They have videos on their site. Not sure this would be appropriate for 25mm minis with lots of detail, but for larger simple creatures like the bullete or maybe dungeon walls it would be perfect. You could also cast in plaster (not the stuff you used in art class) once you have a rubber mold. If you get your hands on the dental quality stuff, it should be fairly sturdy.
  4. Ever try resin casting? You can get a kit for about $50. It will allow you to make a rubber mold of your sculpt and then create a couple of casts. The resin casts will be non porous and easy to paint and you can make a herd of these guys.
  5. Wow, this offers some really cool possibilities. Imagine scanning in a life sized actor in costume. How weird would it be to know that your next Urban Legend Sophie was an actual scan of a real person? Or you could easily create an army of goblins or whatever by varying the virtual pose, think of a tool like Poser. Finally you could make custom casts of individuals. Maybe I could have a figure of me in a Renaissance Fair costume. Unfortunately the sculptor can be removed from the equation for some of these approaches, but you still need someone creative to compose the design. It is like the progression of hand writing to typing to word processing. Finally this may also lead to the computerized painting of the miniatures. I'm sure a 3d CNC painter/printer could create the ultimate photo-realistic and detailed paint job. What next a virtual animated figure on a 3d display surface (Like Star Wars chess)
  6. Is it just me or does this thing look like a rearing elephant? Still getting one :)
  7. Hit a local hobby store on the way home from work yesterday. Got then bones knoll, bugbear and dwarf. Wanted to get more, but they were out. Already have these in metal but after reading all the threads wanted to see how they painted up without primer. I had previously primed up the bones purple worm and troll, it seemed like it took longer for the primer to dry. So I'm quite pleased with how the bare mini takes the paint, better than with primer in fact. I was dissapointed with how flimsy and bent the bugbears club was. So I cut it off, drilled a pin hole into the hand and handle and inserted a 1 inch pin with some superglue. Now it is straight and firm, but still flexible at the wrist. I'm really liking this stuff.
  8. I personally would like to see the demise of DMs using different color starbursts to represent different monsters. It's unimaginative, causes players to focus on their favorite flavor instead and is unhealthy. A lot of these guys (me included) are diabetic. Help us out here Reaper with cheap monsters :)
  9. Nice, I too will have to try the dark lining technique. I mostly use washes. I've tride black primer, but it seems like I have to paint twice as much on that and I wind up overpinting the black and negating some of the benefits. My only complaint about your mini is that I don't think those are pants :)
  10. @Baphomet69, I agree, as a DM, my need for PC's is satisfied. So I stopped buying minis cause I have enough to cover any humanoid encounter. This included goblins, kobolds, skeletons, orcs, gnolls, elves, halflings dwarves and any like figures. Also rats, dogs, cats, bats, snakes and other small animals are in plentiful supply. Now though large and larger creatures may be available, they are expensive in metal. I've been eyeing those fier and ice giants in metal, but at over 30 bucks a pop, my players have just had to use imagination. My personal weakness is dragons, but the most I've ever spent on a single mini is $25. I do have some large dragons that I picked up at cons or clearance. My first bones purchase was the purple worm for 3.00, compare that to 30.00 for tin and instantly I don't have to spend my whole mini allowance for two months on one figure. So let's hope they ramp up production of monsters, especially larger ones, in bones (maybe licensed). I think keeping PC production in metal might be nice too. Finally, carrying around minis for a nights gaming will be much lighter with the bones. Players do not have the same load :)
  11. I do a lot of quick paintjobs, for table needs, that I mean to finish later. Then they get scuffed up at the table and I wind up with a lot more repainting. I have more minis that are base painted than finished and varnished minis. I have a 2 part question about Dullcote or any other varnish you might recommend. 1. How does it hold up on the new bones, especially the flexible parts ? 2. How easy and durable is paint applied on top of the Dullcote ?
  12. Why not just mod the figs or chop them up for bits to mod with. Handguns and rifles are easily turned into crosbows with just a little bent piece of wire or tin. I have used the tin leads that are snipped off for crossbows and spikes or horns in the past. As there has been some discussion about paint techniques and durability, you could always use the unwanted figures for your experiments. Though by the time we get them, we should have a pretty good idea of what works and doesn't.
  13. Honestly I have a backlog of some 500 figures to paint. When I get the bones kickstarter that will add another 300. So for some of the figures (mostly duplicates of metals i already have) I though of painting a solid color, adding a wash to pop details and then sealing. These would be my minions. I think some of the figs would look nice in a metallic bronze or copper. But also greens for orcs and zombies, tan for skeletons etc. Any recommendations on paint? I'm thinking the stuff has to be somewhat flexible when dry, so does that rule out enamels?
  14. First off, I wouldn't paint the whole thing metallic. Maybe just the bigger older scales; assuming the smaller younge ones have not reached the full metal quality. (or does that sound silly) Also use a wash to give it some texture. Remmember some metals tarnish, so a grey, black, green or brown wash should look really nice.
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