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Needed to take a pic of some Ulfsark Games Dragon Scale Dice for an RPG.net review, so thought I'd post the pic here. Show us your dice! Dice Review: https://www.rpg.net/reviews/archive/16/16789.phtml

I'd add to paint only *one* side of the miniature, typically the front. Otherwise, if the miniature is translucent enough, any paint showing from the back will make it more difficult to see the front. Here's Tamiya Clear, followed by a controlled wash of Army Painter Green Ink. Unfortunately, from a distance, it's more difficult to see the details. Maybe then start highlighting and detailing in regular paints, but you'll also want to paint a transition from ethereal to solid.

Vallejo Game Color and Reaper Brush-on Primer. Will check out the VSP's -- I have a dark green, and thought I thinned it, but don't remember!

I forgot to mention that you will typically thin brush-on primers, and one way to give you a head start on your painting is to thin them with inks (or washes, or whatever has a water-like consistency), such as Liquitex Inks, from the art store. Frex, if you're painting a shield yellow, prime the shield with white brush-on primer thinned with yellow ink. You can purchase Liquitex inks at arts and craft stores, the chain stores usually have a discount coupon.

I tried out the Reaper Stone Wash, and, imo, it's more of a paint than a wash. It certainly doesn't behave like other washes I've used, such as Army Painter and Secret Weapon. You can also look into the Reaper inks and clears (?) for their properties as a wash. Depends on what you're looking for. Anyway, you should be able to thin down any acrylic, including Reaper products. Search on "miniature painting thinning" for other mediums besides water that you can use. You can also find tutorials on making your own washes, such as "Les Burley wash".

Best brush for the best job. Or, rather, don't waste your expensive hobby brushes when a cheap one will do! You can get some inexpensive natural hair brushes at Walmart or the arts and craft store, to apply primer, sealer (?), washes, and even basecoats. Superglue is just fine, at least at the newbie level. You don't need to break your wallet buying the expensive specialized stuff for now. You *do* want to learn how to pin miniatures. Search on "two minute tutorial pinning" for some Secret Weapon Miniature pinning tutorials. Converting miniatures depends on what sculpts you can use to make the miniature. See if you can find a HeroClix figure whose right hand has claws (eg. Wolverine) that you can use for your figure. Much easier than sculpting a new hand. Online game stores sell individual HeroClix miniatures.

I picked up some watch bits advertised for steampunk on eBay, to make a Tinkerer base for the Gloomhaven character (and as bits for CMON's Rise of Moloch). Much faster than conventional basing! Vallejo makes texture paint, but look for a cheap tube of coarse texture gel, at the arts and craft store. It's even cheaper after the chain store's coupon. Not only is it good for texture, you can use it to fill in large gaps, such as a slottabase. I picked up Vallejo Plastic Putty as a gap filler, but I'm sure it can be used for various basing ideas as well, such as adding a smooth layer on top of the coarse texture gel.

Very late reply, but I was thinning some white brush-on primer with Liquitex blue ink (the blue in their basic ink set), and it looked a lot like Dragon Blue. (I was pretty sure it did because I was repainting an area of the figure that was originally painted in Dragon Blue). I find the Liquitex Inks useful for solid colors, such as when I paint GW Imperial Army figures. I'm fiddling with block-painting unprimed areas of plastic figures with white brush-on primer thinned with an ink whose color matches that of the area to be painted (eg. for a blue piece of clothing on several figures, prime with white brush-on primer thinned with blue ink, and paint this area on each figure).

Taiyō Dynasties - The War of the Falling Petal. A skirmish miniatures game based in feudal japan with an animalistic twist. Taiyō Dynasties is the creation of Alex Atkinson, a tabletop game developer working out of Japan. Narratively, Taiyō Dynasties takes its influences appropriately from Japanese history and Asian folklore. On the tabletop, Taiyō Dynasties is a quick, easy and accessible miniatures game suitable for players of all ages and skill levels. We believe it's a perfect skirmish wargame to get started with, even if you've never picked up dice and miniatures before. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ulfsarkgames/taiyo-dynasties-miniature-game/description

Review of the Tiny Furniture “Medieval Dining Tables” on RPG.net! : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/archive/18/18167.phtml Game tiles are by Galladoria Games. Wood washed with Army Painter brown Strong Tone ink. Tamiya Clear paints on the bottles. Instar, Army Painter, and Reaper paints.

Not seeing any problems. I'd add eyes to give a sense of life to the model. Keep at it!

15K Throne unlocked! 17K Anvil next!

Search on "secret weapon miniatures two minute tutorial pinning". Pinning is easy -- it's the aligning the pin to the holes that's a pain. However, as others have said, there are plenty of techniques, including putty and painting the tip of the pin. You can paint the tip of a pin with a paint pen, which is useful to paint the edge of bases. Army Painter has an inexpensive drill, and you use paper clips for the wire. Use a sprue cutter or the cutting edge of pliers. If you're pinning to cork on a plastic base, it's particularly easy. If you screw up, the cork hides the mistake!

If it's your first mini's, don't bother. You'll improve quite a bit in a year and wonder why you tried varnishing. Gloss (and metallic paint) is good for shiny effects, tho. I usually protect my miniatures by telling others to hold them by the base, and throwing their characters down a pit if they don't. A pit full of ants.

And another warning about cork! Rolled sheets are a pain to flatten. Get some sheets instead, or many heavy books. Easier to stack multiple thin sheets than cut thinner thick sheets. Does spraying the cork with water then flattening them with heavy books work?? I paint en masse, so it's fast and cheap for me. : For sand, it's playground sand, unless I want asphalt, then it's fine craft sand. Cheap white glue and craft paints. Monsters get dead static grass. Heroes get spring green. Cheap white glue and paperclip to apply. A tip of glue works. Woodland Scenics has various kits. I've only used the Rock making kit, for the talus stones and plaster for terrain rocks. White glue, then a drop of brown or black wash. Citadel has a Skulls kit, something like a few hundred skulls for $20+. Haven't used it, but it's a good price if you're skull-crazy. Unlike miniatures, it's hard to screw up basing. If a rock is a few mm off, nobody's gonna notice. If a pupil is a few mm off...