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Everything posted by ced1106

  1. I have two copies of his first book and the second's not even out of the wrapping! We just play Gloomhaven all the time. Some comments mention availability of previous product (namely, the Immersive Battle Maps) at retail. I could swear I saw the books at a price similar to the KS, but can't find a similar price anymore. The Planescape book I might pick up at retail for a good price, since it has unusual maps I would infrequently use...
  2. Yeah, they really should have broken down the game into multiple KS to build up credibility and user base (rules feedback). 1. .stl files of terrain and miniatures, with PnP rules. 2. 3d-printed terrain and miniatures, with PnP rules. 3. 1.0 Rules and first four armies. 5. 1.5 Rules and next four armies. Nowadays, renders give me the impression of incomplete product. Companies with a track record, I'm less critical of if they're using renders. I don't exactly get what's 3D. They show a printer printing onto paper. But they mention .stl files in the comments. Well, whatever. I have two other KS I've earmarked $250 for, so am in hurry to back something else.
  3. Click on the Notify Me in the KS preview page for a KS discount. The $185 / $205 six-set (two of each of the 3 map sets, with and without vinyl stickers) is the best price. Dungeon set, Frozen Waste set, and miscellaneous. I guess the ideal backer would be someone who has no 2D maps or 3D game tiles, plays RPG and Frostgrave, and has $200 to burn on maps. Each dry-erase map set is 20 17"x22" maps, double-sided and removable. Removable means portable. Yes you're gonna need a bigger table. I already have his original Book of Battle Mats, as well as Loke Battle Mat books and 3D dungeon tiles, so I'll pass on this one. I liked the maps and stickers, although a few thought the art was cartoony or something. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/atlasmundi/130219410?ref=9n5vvd&token=6d7a5de9&utm_campaign=GIB1603062156.ckn&utm_source=greeninbox.com&utm_medium=referral
  4. On the cargo ships! Preview of upcoming Wilderness KS in February 2021:
  5. (Rough draft for an RPG.net review. For more Tiny Furniture Reviews, see : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/search-review.phtml?productCompany=tiny+furniture&orderby=category&showinfo=publisher Tiny Furniture's "Dungeon Garbage" is a seven-piece miniature set of heaps of garbage and medieval junk. The miniatures have excellent detail, with an assortment of garbage suitable for dungeons, city states, and villages. Each heap pile is a collection of smaller distinct items, so don't underestimate the time you should dedicate to painting these miniatures. The miniatures are based on molds from Lady Sabelle Designs. If you're familiar with Hirst Arts, think of Lady Sabelle Designs as molds for accessories, rather than game tiles and buildings. I tracked down these miniatures to Lady Sabelle Designs' "Mold #3 – Rags and Riches", if you have experience with resin and plaster molds. The contents and a description of the garbage piles are: * Random: smaller pile of wood, fabric, and pottery. * Treasure: medium pile with wood barrel, axe, and book. * Treasure: small pile with urn, skull, and small chest. * Random: small pile with urn, boot, and wood. * Residence: medium pile with pitcher, plate, bottle, bread loaf, and wooden chair (?). * Random: medium pile with plate and wood. * Gears: medium pile with large gears, ox idol head, and bottle. The descriptions are just approximate. Certainly you can find whatever you'd like your players to find in these piles. My only nitpick is that the "gears" miniature seems a bit out of place, since most dungeons and medieval settings, other than maybe a mill or clockwork tower, wouldn't have a pile of large gears as debris. ***** Painting: Theory: Unfortunately, my "trial and error" painting experience didn't turn out as well as I would like, so I'm including some painting suggestions in this review. I wasn't sure whether or not to distinctly paint the various items on the miniatures, or paint them realistically like, well, garbage. When painting, most of the time, you can use a realistic image to help you paint. Not so with garbage. Most garbage images are pretty homogenous and it's hard to see anything in particular. You might want to search on "illustration junk pile" rather than "garbage" for ideas. Again, even if you try to make each piece of garbage stand out, the result may be too busy to distinguish any details, so you will want to paint each piece of junk a different color to increase the contrast. Be careful with highlighting. Highlighting any piece in particular may make it appear new, and thus not like dirty old garbage. I pretty ran into all these problems (and am writing these tips to make sure you're aware of them before painting). The professionally painted images are on the bright and new side, while, before repainting, I tried a homogenous and dirty side (used too much wash, though, before trying out distinguishing individual items). However, in the end, this *is* garbage, so it's fine if it's something that should be unnoticed in the background, rather than forefront like some centerpiece terrain. If your players are anything like ones I've had, you'd want the piles muted so a player won't spend half an hour of your game session focused on searching through a pile of trash... Realism or Individual: Painting the individual items risks making the miniature on the busy side, making it difficult to distinguish these items. Pretty obviously, this defeats the purpose of painting these items. On the other hand, real garbage is pretty homogenous (and gross) so you may end up, like I did earlier, with something that looks more like an indistinguishable pile. After a repaint or two, I experimented with the items in the garbage piles more distinguishable. I'm still not satisfied my color choices, not that anyone throwing away garbage puts much effort into making a refuse pile look presentable. I think once I cut out the individual miniatures from the sprue, they should look more reasonable. In hindsight, then, you can try following the professionally painted version (picture at the end) and not try to make it look realistic. Contrast: Miniatures, of course, are small, so it's hard to see individual items. Contrast, then, makes it easier to see these tiny items. Junk piles are something of a surprising challenge, since they're a random collection of items, some of them different than their usual form. For example, your may know it's a junk pile, but you don't know if some piece of junk you're seeing was a chair, barrel, or oxen statue, particulalry if you're only seeing its broken form. Compare this to a typical generic fantasy hero. The head will always be on the top, the body underneath the head, the legs underneath the body, etc. The hands are likely to hold some sort of generic fantasy object, such as a weapon. Besides an unexpected assortment of items in a somewhat unidentifiable state, a garbage pile is supposed to be dirty, so you have to give the suggestion of a dirty pile of junk, even though an individual item may not be painted dirty. It took a fair amount trial and error, but I think the way to suggest this is to first paint the miniature realistically (particularly with coats of brown Strong Tone Army Painter) so much of the miniature is dirty. Then add constrast by painting individual items on each junk pile their own distinct color. Arbitrary Color Choices and Color Harmony: Some items on a miniature are not natural, so give you full leeway on what color to paint them. Cloth, urns, and pitchers are examples from the miniature set. Unfortunately, much like choosing the wrong colors of clothes to wear, chosing the wrong colors for objects on a miniature can cause the miniature to somehow look wrong. You can certainly experiment (like I did) but expect mistakes and repaints if you do no planning. You can always still follow the minature painting guideline of two main colors and a third minor color. I my case, it was blue and red, with green. I chose blue because it's an easy color to paint. I then went with red because I felt green or a color with blue would not do as good a job suggesting the chaotic randomness of the junk. Despite the three-color guideline, I ended up with a four-color Square color scheme (blue predominant, red, green, and orange-brown). Ideally, you will want each pile to be independent of each other, perhaps even each having their own color scheme. Tiger Colors : https://www.tigercolor.com/color-lab/color-theory/color-harmonies.htm Natural Colors and Colors not on the Color Wheel: The above link shows various colors on the color wheel, but note that many common generic fantasy colors, such as some browns for wood, grey for rock, and metallic grey for metal, do not show up on the wheel (or the rainbow, for that matter), because the color wheel only has "pure" colors. However, when your brown is more like orange, it's on the color wheel, and I ended up with an orange-brown as one of my color harmony colors, as wood. Ochre can be off the color wheel when it's more like white, but on it when it's orange-brown, like some of the ochre-colored items on the miniature. Glossy vs. Non-Glossy: Some pieces of junk, such as the bottles, should be painted glossy, and the urns may or may not be painted so. Also, some of the more vague and unidentifiable pieces can be painted as glass. Metallic items have some shininess. Glossiness, of course, helps make a piece of junk identifiable when viewing hte miniature. When painting, you may want to balance out the gloss, by having a piece on the opposite side of a glossy item, be painted glossy, even though it may not have to be painted that way. ***** Painting: With all that theory out of the way, here's a suggestion how to paint the miniature. First prime in brown, then wash with a brown wash, such as Army Painter Strong Tone. Basecoat the wood in a light orange-brown. Paint the metallic pieces metal. Paint stone pieces grey. Select a color harmony for the cloth, urns, pitcher, etc. You can also use ochre for cloth and paper, and desaturated brown for the boot, etc. Apply another brown wash. Might as well do this as quickly as possible (I spent too much time on this) since the brown wash will make everything look dark. This will make the trash look realistic. You will want to keep this realism for the trash you don't add contrast to, to give the impression that the trash piles are realistic. Individual items you will increase the contrast (detail and highlight in brighter colors) so viewers can more easily see the items in the trash piles. Wood: Select at least three different brown shades to distinguish the wood. I used orange-brown (light brown) for broken wood, and dark brown for the axe. You may want another color of brown for the broken chair and leather boot. Personally, I don't like using orange-brown as a natural color, so ended up glazing darker brown paint on the orange-brown until it looked closer to wood. In any case, make sure the browns you end up with are clearly distinguishable from each other. Cloth and miscellaneous: Besides the colors used in your color harmony, you can paint cloth ochre and white to increase the contrast against the brown. By white I mean starting at ochre, then highlighting white and washing with brown to make the folds and texture apparent. Other non-metallic, non-wood, non-glass items, such as the oxen head, skull, plate, stale bread, bottle labels, and rope, can be painted similarly. Since these items aren't flat like cloth, they can be easily distinguished from the cloth items. Metal and Bottles: You can further highlight metal pieces if you'd like. I only did so with the axe. I like to hold up a model with light coming from the side and overhead, then paint the reflected areas in a lighter shade of paint. Do this for the same with the bottles. Add a layer of gloss (eg. Tamiya Clear) to the bottles. Conclusion: Like other Tiny Furniture miniatures, these miniatures have quite a bit of detail, and can take awhile to paint properly. Hopefully, these tips will make your painting experience less of trial-and-error than mine was, so you can get some well-painted garbage onto your gaming table! ***** Notes on the photos: - The first photo was taken immediately after washing the miniature. Doesn't look like it was dried off. - The third photo was my attempt at making "realistic" garbage piles. I wasn't too happy that the details were hard to see because of my dark colors (mostly too much brown wash).
  6. Couldn't find the SKU, but these were from a Bones KS. Easy to paint. Background is Loke Battlemats Dungeon Maps.
  7. Background is Loke Battlemat's Dungeon Maps. Fire was the tricky part. I think I still stuck to the "white > yellow > orange > red" color scheme.
  8. Background is Loke Battlemat's Dungeon Map book. I think I didn't prime the miniature, so Bone's white plastic helped bring out the colors.
  9. Yep, but I'll say more. (: I've been using colored primers, usually followed by a colored wash. Most colored primers are air-brush, but they can be brushed on. Sometimes, I can do the primer and basecoat step at the same time!
  10. That got settled, yes. One issue about foreign-designed games, which I'm sure overseas backers already know about, is that, while a game can be translated, this translation, ideally, needs to be done by a native language-speaking gamer, as well as playtested. For complicated, text-heavy Ameritrash games, I usually wait until the second edition, if I'm on the fence. Frex, Monolith / Mythic's Conan the Barbarian had translation issues resulting in gameplay ambiguity, and DUN first edition used incorrect non-standard terminology in their English translation. Of course, if DD is a must-have, by all means back it.
  11. (Rough draft review for RPG.net. For more TF reviews, see : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/search-review.phtml?productCompany=tiny+furniture&orderby=category&showinfo=publisher Tiny Furniture's "Medieval bakery" is a multi-piece miniature set consisting of... quite a few pieces! A bread oven, a warming oven, and two bakery tables with overhead shelving are just the start. A wine cask... bushel of cabbages... urn and lid... broom... sacks... flour stone mill... pitcher... small basket, two wine bottles, sprig of garlic, two jars on one sprue... pie, two pieces of pastry, and a pretzel on another... plate... sack of apples... sack of grain... another sack of grain... apron hanger... washcloth hanger... three pastries... and two serving baskets of cookies. That's one busy bakery. Many of these pieces are available individually. Each of the larger pieces also has smaller items on them. The oven has two smaller candles, a fire, and firewood. One overhead shelving has a pumpkin, lid, container, bowl of something, two pretzels, jar with cover, small plate of wafers, two notes, and three dried vegetable sprigs. The other overhead shelving has two jars, three bowls of different somthings, a basket of apples, a mug-shaped basked of another something, a sprig of garlic, a bread cutting board, some sort of brush, two notes, and a rag. One kitchen counter island has three apple or meat turnovers, two bowls of stuff, a rolling pin, a pitcher, a pestle, and basked of round breads or cookies. The other has a book, jar, two pastries, a pie, and rolling pin. Individually, each piece or kitchen item on a larger one isn't difficult. It's just that this set is jam-packed with them, even if you don't pack the jars with jam. The individual items molded into the larger pieces can be tricky to avoid a stray stroke of paint. It's an involved project, especially for intermediate painters who want to make those jars transparent with pickled eggs or whatnot inside of them. Thankfully, beginner painters can paint them opaque, and the rest of the bakery isn't otherwise more difficult to paint than any terrain piece. The small unattached pieces are on sprues, which make them easier to handle -- though be careful about removing small parts from sprues. And make sure you carefully store these small pieces once you remove them from the sprues so they don't get lost! If you want even more small items, look at Tiny Furniture's "Market Supplies" and "Dishes in a Tavern" for similar and additional items for your kitchen, bakery, and tavern. Tiny Furniture also offers a painted version. Painting: As said, the Medieval Bakery set has a good number of items, and each has be painted differently. However, rather than presenting these painting tips item by item, I'm breaking down the painting tips so that you can paint the entire set at once, such as by noting when a particular color can be used to paint multiple items at once. This will let you paint the set faster. Of course, cloth and other "crafted" items can be painted in any color as you with. Usually, you will want contrast (eg. light color next to a dark one) so that the viewer can see individual items better from a distance. When painting this set, I wasn't sure what paint scheme to use, so hopefully, you can use these tips and build upon them for your own set painted better than mine. (For the browns, I pretty much used three colors: dark brown, orange brown and ochre. Five colors might work better. Also, some other Tiny Furniture miniatures, such as the Dark Magister's Workplace were painted at the same time.) Priming: For stone areas, I brushed-on a gray colored primer, then followed with Secret Weapon Miniatures Stone wash, then a light drybrush of the edges with a lighter gray. For wood and other areas, I brushed on a brown colored primer, then followed with brown Army Painter Soft Tone wash. Soft Tone wash is a good general color when you have "organic" browns, such as food and wood. I then lightly drybrushed wooden edges and straw textures (eg. baskets) with a lighter brown. Metal: Unlike heroes and humanoids armed with swords, there's very little metal in this set, so get this color out of the way. Paint metallic the door to the bread warmer, and the hinges and metal of the counters. Then wash with a dark wash, such as Secret Weapon Miniatures Armor wash, or Army Painter Dark Tone. You may wish to paint the urn, lids, etc. metallic or leave them brown. Wood and bread: Orange brown. Many light browns are actually an orange-brown, while others are less saturated. For most generic fantasy figures, know the difference, since monsters and heroes are hard to take seriously when they're orange! But, for baked goods (and pumpkins), an orange-brown is a fine color. Orange-brown can be used as a transitional coat from brown to ochre (eg. book pages and basket). Paint the sacks, baked goods, wooden plates, and wooden accessories orange-brown, then wash with brown Soft Tone. While I only painted the sacks a uniform orange-brown, you can certainly paint them a range of colors, such as dark brown, orange-brown, and ochre. You can subtly distinguish the different baked goods with different saturations of orange brown (eg. by adding ochre). Pumpkins: Orange. When painting pumpkins, you may wish to glaze from brown to bright orange, putting more orange on the outer parts of the pumpkin, and avoiding orange in the creases of the pumpkin. Tiny Furniture, by the way, has a set of Halloween pumpkins I highly recommend. Paint the stems brown. Apples : Red. Paint the apples red and wash with Army Painter Red Tone. You can, of course, paint the apples different colors, underpaint them with flesh for a lighter shade of red, etc. Paint the stems brown. Baskets, Sacks, Paper, Garlic, and Colored Cloth : Ochre, White, and Various Colors. The baskets and garlic can be drybrushed with ochre to a straw color. Paint the grain in the sacks, the ropes tying the sacks together, the pages of the book, and cloth ochre. Follow with a wash of brown Army Painter Soft Tone. (We'll be using it pretty often in these painting tips.) When you're finishing up the set, you will want to paint cork and the various flour and sugar ingredients in bowls ochre, followed by Soft Tone. For anything white or another color, repeat with white. Then paint any other color for cloth or whatnot. Blue is the easiest color, and red more difficult. Freehand scribble lines in the pages to suggest recipes and other notes. Lettuce, Dried Vegetables, and Bottle: Greens. For the lettuce and dried vegetables, paint dark green, such as Army Painter Angel Green. Then paint lighter shades, such as Army Painter Goblin Green and Jungle Green. To make a lighter shade of green, you can add yellow. Then wash with Army Painter Green Tone, and repaint lighter shades as necessary. The dried vegetables can be painted other colors, such as brown and ochre, as above. For bottles, paint dark green. Then hold the bottle to a strong light source, and paint the reflected light a lighter shade. Then paint Tamiya Clear or Tamiya Clear Green. You can do this for other bottles and glass containers with other colors. For small glass bottles and containers, you can get away with painting the bottle opaque then applying Tamiya Clear. I just painted the pitchers a solid color, but you can paint them similarly. Jars of Pickled Food: Intermediate. Clear jars of stuff can be pretty tricky. Anything pressed against the glass will be a brighter color than the rest of the piece of food, which will be a progressively darker shade from the pickling juice. Start by painting the jar the pickling juice color. Then, gradually paint dots from this color up to a bright smaller dots. Then paint with Tamiya Clear. I found this to be the most difficult part of painting the jar (including because you have to paint a cloth "lid" for the jar!). If you're a beginning painter, you can always paint the jars opaque then return to them some other time, or just paint the separate jars, rather than the ones molded into the bakery table overhead shelves. Conclusion: While Tiny Furniture's "Bakery Set" is not a difficult terrain set to paint, it still has a good number of different items to paint. The details are well worth it, and hopefully these painting tips will save you some groundwork, and let you go further with the set, with additional highlights, your own color scheme, and so on.
  12. The 1.5" tiles and "flat" color design mean HeroScape. First Created. For some reason, the tiles look familiar, but maybe I'm just thinking of a similar KS. Anyone here on HeroScapers? I'm sure they'd be interested!
  13. They originally called themselves "Mythic Monolith", an obvious reference to the unrelated Mythic and Monolith boardgame companies. They've changed their webpages, but if you search on "Obliterarium mythic monolith" you can find references to when they called themselves "Mythic Monolith". Waard, on this Beasts of War thread, also suspects the creator may be a scammer. The KS says it's from Ireland, but the website is Ukranian, and he finds the identity of the creator suspicious. BoW : https://www.beastsofwar.com/news/preview-kickstarter-miniatures-mythic-monolith-game/ Legendarion is also Ukranian, so I guess I'd check with Cadwallon about this KS, and ask the Magical Miniatures folks got the rights and find some way to confirm it. With this also being a First Created project from a company with no reputation, that's enough yellow flags for me to not back the project. Do your own due diligence!
  14. Well, if you don't get better advice, you can always ballpark it by putting different colors that are close on a wet palette and mix, "trial and error". You may want to include ink and washes. Unfortunately, the color of paint when wet isn't necessarily the same as dry, either. You can also cheat by washing the newly painted area and the previously painted one the same wash color. For advanced tabletop, "close enough" is "good enough". Putting the miniature aside a day and returning back may make us realize we didn't have to be so picky / accurate in the first place. Additionally, there's also technique when color-matching. Frex, purple can be used to shade yellow, but you don't do this by mixing purple directly into yellow. fwiw, Reaper also has a color matching webpage. You could take a photo, upload it, then see what Reaper recommends. But I think that's too much work, especially since, with photography, the lighting will affect the color of the object. EDIT: Might be gone. If someone knows the link, post.
  15. Ugh. Sorry to hear that, especially after the wildfires from the thunderstorm lightning we had several weeks ago (not to mention the man-made started fires). Not gonna help now, but support goats as fire prevention. They also get rid of invasive plants. All this dry fuel is a result of 100 years of CA and Federal "fire suppression" policy to prevent fires. While this sounded good, it also meant suppression of the natural lifecycle of plants, and build-up of a century of kindling for these mega-fires we're experiencing now. https://www.npr.org/2020/01/05/792458505/california-cities-turn-to-hired-hooves-to-help-prevent-massive-wildfires
  16. (Rough draft for an RPG.net review. More more Tiny Funiture reviews, see : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/search-review.phtml?productCompany=tiny+furniture&orderby=category&showinfo=publisher Tiny Furniture's "Medieval Castle Toilets" is a three-piece resin miniatures set, consisting of a one-piece stone toilet, and a two-piece wooden toilet with a cover. (If you want a fancier chamberpot, look at the Noble's Bedroom.) Tiny Furniture miniatures have an incredible level of detail, and these miniatures are no exception. The wood has wood grain throughout, visible at at tabletop distance. The cover of the wood toilet fits just fine. You can distinguish the individual stones, as well as see the texture. You could also use the wood toilet as a small tub, but that might be a little gross. Although these are based on castle toilets, they can be used in any wooden structure, such as an inn, or stone one. The miniature comes in both an unpainted and painted version. Tiny Furniture also sells an outhouse. Painting these miniatures are not difficult, and a beginning painter should have no problems painting these miniatures. The cover of the wooden toilet is attached to a sprue, but that's about it. Even a passing familiarity with painting wood, stone, and metal should be fine. You can pretty much paint the miniature with a colored primer, wash, then drybrushing the edges of the miniature. For the wood, I started by brushing on a brown colored primer, washing with brown Army Painter Soft Tone Ink, then lighty drybrushing the edges of the wood with a lighter color of brown. (Most drybrushing assumes painting the entire area of the miniature equally, but I think only doing the edges of the wood makes it easier to distinguish the miniature. IMO, You want to see the miniature, not texture.) Then I painted the metallic band around the miniature and washed it in brown. For the stone, I brushed on a gray colored primer, washed with Secret Weapon Miniatures Stone wash, then, again, lightly drybrushed the edges of the miniature lighter gray. (I highly recommend Secret Weapon Miniatures stone wash as a quick and easy way to paint stone without it looking as if you drybrushed it.) If you have them, you can wash washes the "hole" of the pit toilet with Secret Weapon Miniatures Sewer Water and/or Baby Poop washes (as well as resin water or other gunk), to make it subtly more disgusting. If you want to add a dose of realism to your castle, inn, or even dungeon, pick up the Medieval Castle Toilets with your next Tiny Furniture order. You won't need to think (or flush) twice. Medieval Castle Toilets https://jamesmdeem.com/stories.castle.toilets.html Toilets in a Medieval Castle. Stone toilet in the Tower of London. https://www.ancient.eu/article/1239/toilets-in-a-medieval-castle/ Wooden Chamberpot: https://www.wikiwand.com/en/Chamber_pot
  17. All add-ons unlocked b/c creator felt like it. Five more backers to get this free SG, the Pilgrimage Hound. Big Dog free SG has already been unlocked!
  18. Search on "Sword 'n' Steele Shifters Review" for their comments on using a brush.
  19. Shoot him a message. He'll offer the same product in a later campaign, at higher prices (though still good compared to other RPG products). You can also purchase it through DriveThruRPG and possibly Amazon.
  20. (Rough draft for a review on RPG.net. More Tiny Furniture Reviews : https://www.rpg.net/reviews/search-review.phtml?productCompany=tiny+furniture&orderby=category&showinfo=publisher Tiny Furniture's "Guillotine" is a multi-piece set, including guillotine, basked, and unfortunate man's head. The miniature may be purchased by itself, or as part of Tiny Furniture's "The Execution Day" set, which includes "1) Gallows and Scaffold, 2) Executioner axe and chopping block, 3) Guillotine, 4) Pillory, 5) Torturer". Both the "Guillotine" and "The Execution Day" miniatures may be purchased unpainted or painted. Like Tiny Furniture's other miniatures, their guillotine miniature has great details, even having a rope and tie down the side, pulley atop the blade, and various metal fasteners. The platform, where the victim would be lain down, is a single piece, rather than hollow, making it less likely to break apart. Assembly is pretty easy. You can even use putty (with superglue) to put the miniature together, if you wish to take it apart after play for safer storage. The model is easy to paint and pretty much has no mold lines. Some pieces need to be detached from sprues. The guillotine itself is painted as wood, rope, and metal. Except for the metal, I primed in brown primer, followed by brown Army Painter Strong Tone, and a light dry brush mainly on the edges of the miniature. For the platform, I painted the "hollow" areas with a dark black-brown. For the metal blade and other metal areas, I primed or painted in metallic primer, followed by dark Secret Weapon Armor wash. The rope and basket were primed in brown primer, then dry-brushed in ochre Army Painter Skeleton Bone. Paint the head as you would a zombie. While I didn't do it, you can add blood to the blade and stocks. Search on "miniature painting blood tutorial" for tutorials on painting blood.
  21. I cheated with blue and white. Yellow and green have less contrast, because yellow is part of green. I actually painted the outer flame as white, which leads me to... You aren't painting fire. You're making sure the viewer can see what's there and *suggest* fire. IMO, The pictures shown are "flat". They're probably accurate, but you don't want accurate. You want to see details. This picture suggests flames, yet there's plenty of black where there shouldn't be, assuming black is colder in temperature. That's b/c the black's there so you see the details. Yellow's actually sorta used as a highlight color, as if you're painting a regular miniature. As for the demi-lich, you could also start by making sure the skull looks right. The skull is the focus of the miniature. Hopefully, the rest of the miniature will follow. I'm also attaching a snake, which might be closer to what you're looking for. Again, yellow is used more of a highlight, while there's plenty of black in there as well. Why? Who cares? It's a snake.
  22. (RPG.net review draft) Introduction: What's future-retro and full of rust? Why, it's Tiny Furniture's "Junk cart". This post-apoc miniature has the back half of a 1950's car (maybe an Edsel?) and two construction beams to pull it around. Perfect for a game of Fallout or any other post-apocalyptic game. The deck lid of the trunk has been removed, and a big pile of retro-future junk is there, too. This is a multi-piece miniature, with a removable junk pile so you can have an empty junk cart, or put something else in it. Thematically, you will probably want the car and junk rusted, which would make the miniature best for intermediate painters. Beginning painters, of course, can easily paint this miniature, if they prefer to give it a brown wash instead of rust effects. The miniature has pretty much no mold lines, and assembly is easy. Both unpainted and painted versions are available. The miniature has multiple pieces: two construction beams that serve as handles, the back half of a 1950's car that serves as the back of the car, two different pairs of tires (you only need one for the cart, so the other two can be used as junk or attached to the handles), and a removable block of various retro pieces of junk. The block of junk can be turned around. The junk pile junk are, from most noticable to details : a car door, a tire, a suitcase, a gas can, some gas cylinders, a futuristic case, wooden chests, and some bottles. That's a lot of detail, all of it future-restro-istic. The pieces fit together easily. In the pictures, I just use putty. Rust: Intermediate painters will want to apply rust effects on various parts of the miniature. When I looked at various rust tutorials, I noticed that they varied quite a bit in effect and difficulty, and often depended on special materials. My thoughts are to review as many rust tutorials as you can before deciding on which ones you want. The painting tips, then, should only be seen as examples of using rust. You may have painting materials (eg. weathering pigment) that I don't have, and some of the rust techniques I use may call for painting materials that you do not own (eg. Liquid Mask). I do recommend brown Army Painter Light Tone, although Army Painter Soft Tone may work. I found Army Painter Light Tone to be used for subtle weathering for post-apocalyptic painting, to quickly make modern-day items look worn and dirty after disuse and neglect. Construction Beams, Car Half, Bottom of Trunk, and Underside of Car : Stippling. Stippling requires no special painting materials. Prime or basecoat in brown, and stipple red-brown, dark red, and bright orange. If you accidentally put too much paint on an area, try smearing it with your thumb. If the colors look too uniform, wash with brown Army Painter Strong Tone then continue. Since most players won't see the underside of the car, I just painted it with brown metallic, followed by a brown wash. Car Paint Job and Bumper: Liquid Mask and Sanding Tool. I rarely use Liquid Mask, but found it useful for straight lines on fantasy gaming shields. It's also used in a rust effect where you paint the entire area in rust, cover it all in Liquid Mask, paint the car color over the Liquid Mask, then use a sanding sponge, sandpaper, or even a nail buffer sanding bloock to scrape off some of the paint to reveal the rust underneath. Brown Army Painter Light Tone was useful for suggesting dirt on the car. It's available in the Army Painter Quickshade Ink Set, or you can thin down their more popular Soft Tone or Strong Tone. Lights: For the lights, I painted them red and white, then Tamiya Smoke Clear. You can alternatively wash them with a thinned Army Painter Dark Tone, then apply a gloss. Tires: Liquid Mask and Sanding Tool. These are whitewall tires, popular in the 1950's. Paint the tire black. Rust the rims of the tires. Apply Liquid Mask to the whitewall and rim parts of the tires. Paint the rims metallic and the whitewalls white. With the sanding tool, scrape away part of the rim and whitewalls, revealing the rust. Because the rims are recesssed, you might have a tricky time scraping the rims and reveal the grey resin underneath. That's fine. Wash with brown Army Painter Light Tone or thinned brown wash. Junk: The entire junk piece was primed in brown. The individual junk pieces required different painting techniques. For the tire, I used the same technique as above. For the door, I used the same stippling technique. If you wish for the car door to still have paint, you may try the Liquid Mask technique. Also, if you want the window to appear more like glass, search on "miniature painting glass". For the smaller fuel tanks, I drybrushed the color, but you can still use a rust technique. For the suitcase and wooden crates, I painted them in various browns. The gas can was painted in metallic red without rust techniques, but can make it rusty as well. The futuristic suitcase I assumed was made of aluminum or stainless steel, so I painted it metallic. You can then paint the junk in a brown wash, such as brown Army Painter Light Tone. Conclusion: For the beginner, painting this model without weathering isn't particularly difficult. However, if you want to go the extra mile (so to speak), then you will want to use various rust techniques for this model -- and should have good results. Enjoy your old post-apocalypse retro junk car(t), and pull around in style!
  23. If you want to do it like the picture (wet mud), see if painting them with a gloss would help. Search on "Secret Weapons miniatures mud tutorial" for some ideas. I presume these guys will be on a mud base, so you can start by practicing making some mud bases for your undead.
  24. Played a really strong character in the Avengers, even if she was a "talented amateur". And there was an Avengers comic before the Avengers comic : http://theavengers.tv/
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