cmorse

Tamiya panel liner would make short work of it.

Citadel synthetic brushes aren't really any different than the cheap ones of amazon either. 50 brushes for $10 is what I last bought. I've have one in the bag so far with loose bristles, which is for the price is fine. The tips don't curl any faster than the expensive ones, they are mostly all made out of the same nylon that likely comes out of the same handful of factories.

Looking back through their other projects there is apparently still outstanding stuff from Solomon Kane, their second kickstarter. It seems to be the case for a lot of the older games and they recently dumped the stock that might have been used to take care of at least some of the undelivered items.

I think you have this a bit wrong. To attach to a 1/8 BSP hose you don't add an adapter, you remove the one that is preinstalled.

All water based polyurethanes still recommend being in a ventilated area to use due to the polyurethane. Vallejo's airbrush primer is also water based polyurethane and it's easy to fine their msds info. Stynylrez is likely very similar.

Big cheap poster frames from places like Walmart with lines drawn or painted on is what people used to use.

Green Stuff World is the go to for buying repackaged cheap things at insane markups. When they are feeling spicy they'll also patent other people products as start making them for themselves. K&S Precision Metals sells lots of sizes of thin, straight brass rod and is pretty easy to find if you don't want to use paperclips.

Badger airbrushes use M5 .5mm connections. Some come with an adapter to 1/8 BSP, but for most that's a separate purchase. I took a look at my setup and I have the Badger 51-042 QD, it actually solves everything. The male side is an M5 and attaches to the airbrush directly and the female side is an 1/8 BSP with an M5 adapter over it. So that adapter plus a 1/8 BSP f/f hose should do the trick. A note about the sizes of connectors and why it's such a pain- The listed size and the actual size won't match. The 1/8" in BSP is talking about what the inside diameter would be if those threads were on a steel pipe. That's why if you look at an 1/8 BSP connector it looks around 1/4" and a 1/4" BSP connector look 1/2". NTP is the same, but the US version. On the other hand the M5 that Badger uses is actually 5mm on the outside, so it looks like what you'd imagine 1/8" connector to be.

A hose that matches the compressor's fitting (looks like 1/4″NPT, but check what the listing you order from says), a female quick connect that attaches to that hose , and a Badger male quick connect. The airbrush end of the hose doesn't need be Paasche, you might even find one that has a badger end, it doesn't really matter since the quick connection is standard and takes care of the adapting.

I'd suggest getting a hose that matches the compressor and get quick releases to go between the hose and the brush. You'll end up with some extra quick connect bits, but you shouldn't need any extra adapters.

I have the 1/3 and it's a good size if you plan to do either lots of minis at once with a single paint (like priming) or every want to use it on bigger things (like model kits). Otherwise the smaller cup would be fine. The big cup is definitely unnecessary for the amount of paint you'd use on a single mini. Amazon seems to have the smaller one for $54 at the moment which seems pretty good.

Unless there are other signs that it was returned I'd actually assume it came from Reaper missing the tutorial. They have great customer service to replace missing things, but I've had a surprising number of missing items in sealed packages on the occasions I've ordered direct from Reaper.

The lid will make a huge difference if you've been letting Stynylrez sit in your cup for 5-10 minutes.

Do you use the lid for your airbrush cup? It keeps the paint from drying as quickly making it easier to clean and helps prevent clogs caused by paint drying in the cup.

Yeah, as many drops as it takes to get it as thin as you want it.