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cmorse

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by cmorse

  1. Wash them before you repaint them. Some brush on primer wouldn't hurt, but usually doesn't seem necessary on dice since the pips are recessed.
  2. Airbrush medium is basically (it's likely to have extra water and additives) just airbrush paint without any pigment (color) added. Thinner medium is basically the same as airbrush medium but likely has different ratios of additives. Airbrush thinner is mystery meat. It could have alcohol in it or mineral spirits or acrylic resin or ammonia (for those windex fans) or all sorts of things. It could just be water with some flowaid and drying retarder. It's good to be careful mixing brands of paint and thinner unless you know they are definitely compatible. You can use all three to thin paint for use in an airbrush which is why it seem like people use them interchangeably. Their more prescribed use is for airbrush medium to thin non-airbrush paint to use in an airbrush, thinner medium to turn thicker brush paint into thinner brush paint, and airbrush thinner to make airbrush paints thinner than they are.
  3. It's just acrylic paint with filler in it to make it shrink less as it dries, otherwise known as modeling paste. Marble dust is common, though I don't know if that's what Vallejo uses. It can be sanded a bit, but usually you can smooth it before it dries so there is no need to. Drying time is entirely dependent on how thick you put it on along with the temp and humidity. If you do want to sand longer is better, I'd leave it at least a day before sanding.
  4. At $4 a brush they might still be a better value than an Artis Opus kickstarter.
  5. The way I read it he was one of the owners of Play & Win, the company Pascal Bernard originally had the contract with, that got bought out by Mythic. I don't think he had any part in Mythic.
  6. Do you ever hit the wood against glass while rinsing? If the finish gets cracked so that water can get at the wood easier it can flake. Another way for the finish to crack is temperature. Going from a frozen mail envelope to a 70 degree house (or the other direction) can cause little cracks that can eventually lead to flaking.
  7. I've never bothered with this for paint, but a long standing trick for epoxy is just putting it under an incandescent light. Even the heat from having the blub 3-6 inches away is enough to drastically effect the cure time. It would probably also be effective on acrylics while being much safer than the oven for plastic minis.
  8. I think even if you're going to go off the deep end I'd start with either the bones or the pathfinder sets and then decide if it made sense to add a full set of the other one. They are all unique colors, but I'm not really sure they are different enough that I'd want everything in both sets. That said, even with all 120 bottles there would be lots of mixing going on for shades and highlights. If you want to avoid that sort of mixing you might want to consider a selection of triads instead.
  9. If you want to use brown liner for priming as a more than occasional thing I'd recommend just buying a larger bottle of primer instead. My preference is stynylrez but there are other brands that work as well.
  10. Most likely it's a decision based on the sales numbers of their last game. If very few English copies sold at retail, likely due to most people who wanted one backing the kickstarter, but they had good enough sales in the other languages at retail it makes sense.
  11. Here's a swatch test someone did specifically for madder rose. https://janeblundellart.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-rose-by-any-other-namerose-madder-and.html Notice how different the first two swatches that are genuine madder rose are from each other.
  12. It probably wouldn't hurt to run a break in cycle on the new one when it gets there, I think it's a pretty common requirement in manuals even if it's not in your's. At worst you'll waste 15 minutes, but maybe it will end up lasting longer.
  13. Did you break it in? The directions on my compressor called for running it the first time with the valve open for I think 10 minutes before allowing it to build pressure. After that you could turn it on normally.
  14. From Golden I'd say their Fluid Acrylic line is closer to hobby paint than the High Flow line. The High Flows are in the same category as Liquitex Acrylic Inks, which from a miniatures hobby perspective I'd call pre-thinned airbrush paints. The Golden Fluid Acrylics come in both gloss and matte. The matte is more on the satin side though. Utrecht Fluid acrylics are another easy to find option, they are matte. Artist's Loft (Michaels brand) fluid acrylics were also good, matte, and very cheap, but I think they were discontinued.
  15. I think you're underestimating what I meant by more. Packing minis with kleenex/toilet paper is more like packing them with cotton balls than it is crumpled paper. The mini shouldn't move at all if you do it right.
  16. I think the kleenex would have been fine if you had just used more of it.
  17. Depends what you mean by "tube". If you mean artist paints I'd avoid heavy body completely, soft body you'd probably want to thin a fair bit and add some flow improver, fluid (comes in a bottle rather than a tube) is very close to miniatures paint without needing additives. With all of those you have to pay attention to whether they are gloss or matte. Alternatively what Doug is likely suggesting "Clear Magenta" is Reaper's name for Quinacridone Magenta and has all the normal hobby paint additives already mixed in. The other hobby brands probably sell it too, but you'd have to figure out under what color name.
  18. I thought Triads pretty much was Reapers paint marketing. The only reason the HD rebranding is getting emphasis now is that the bones minis are doing so well, before that it was all triads.
  19. So do the pathfinder bones minis. They are still just bones and it would be silly not to count them as such.
  20. Stynylrez goes up to 32oz bottles if you want ridiculously large bottles of primer.
  21. Using liner is a waste of money if you are using it more than occasionally. The price per oz is ridiculous compared to primer. Once you prime them with Stynylrez you can use whatever paint you want. At that point you are painting on the primer rather than the PVC so the mini isn't any more hydrophobic than any other primed mini.
  22. I was referring to what their problem was rather than what backer's problems with them were. Really two different things. Lots of reasons not to support them going forward though.
  23. AVP's big problems were a combination of the standard underestimating time and costs along with some super bad lines of communication with the IP holder. Everything needed back and forth approvals and it seemed like no one in either company ever set up a good way to handle the back and forth.
  24. The new system goes together reasonably fast, I'd guess much faster than the old stuff based on looks. As far a quality goes, everything is good for the most part. The one real quality issue is the notches where the connectors go aren't always the right size. Most work fine, but you do have to recut some of them yourself. This is a known issue that has existed across multiple projects and was addressed by posting a video on how to recut the notches that are too small, so I'd expect it to still be an issue this time. Another thing I noticed on the Core Space punch boards was some "straight lines" that were a bit wavy. Nothing to the point of actually being a problem. I probably wouldn't notice while playing, but did see it on a number of things while punching stuff out. It was likely the cutting dies were used too many times before getting replaced and got a little warped.
  25. If you have no trouble mixing paints and understanding color you'd probably be fine without triads. Aside from that the other advantage is consistency. If you want the exact same shades and highlights across a large number of minis triads can make things easier.
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