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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. A common way to distinguish is how far away from you the mini need to be to still look good. Tabletop looks good/fine looking down on the table while playing, but if you pick one up you can start seeing problems pretty fast.  High tabletop the distance where it looks good is in the 1-1.5 foot range, but when you look super close that face is derpy as it gets. Display is looking good no matter how close you look at it.

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  2. I think you'll find some Reaper colors will have better coverage than Vallejo and some Vallejo colors will have better coverage than Reaper. That's just how it works between all the better paint lines. It will also depend on how long the Vallejo has been on the shelf, since they improved the line last year. I'd recommend against committing to just one brand. When you place an order with Reaper add in some colors you're running short on. When you run out of something in the winter get some Vallejo at the local store. See a bottle of a brand you've never heard of in an interesting color, buy a bottle of it to try the brand. One thing I don't recommend is giving money to anyone charging $10 for a bottle of .5oz bottle reaper paint, that's way over MSRP.

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  3. On 1/24/2024 at 12:17 PM, mikem91 said:

    I think stynylrez at 125psi might just chew up most minis 😉


    When it's set at 125 you are shooting minis with nails, not stynylrez... or, if you actually want to put out a lot of paint for something larger than a mini or a model, you have the option to.


    That said a 2 gallon tank at 125 psi is going to last longer than one sitting at 20 psi before it needs to kick on again when the airbrush is set to 12. Typically I leave to compressor set to 100, the compressor's built it output regulator set at 40, and moisture trap regulator combo set to whatever I've actually using. All on quick release of course, because I really do bring it outside to put air in my car tires when I need to.


    Speaking of car tires and Badger though, in one of the manuals I have they suggest using spare tires in place of buying canned air.

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  4. On 1/22/2024 at 10:20 AM, Heisler said:

    Holy cow! You airbrush at 25 PSI? I totally agree and avoid those cute little compressors like the plague, getting a good one off the bat will make the whole experience better. I typically airbrush at 12 PSI and sometimes as low as 8.


    There are a host of good airbrushing threads in the forum when you are ready for paint. This is the post to start with: Airbrush Compendium


    Stynylrez and a lot of other primers recommend 20-30 psi. Normal paint generally doesn't need it up that high though. It's not that you always set the airbrush that high, it's that you want a compressor that's capable of going that high for the occasions you do. You can always turn it down to whatever you want, but a compressors max psi is all it will ever hit.


    Which is why as long as someone doesn't need the quietest possibly compressor I always recommend getting a "quiet" not airbrush compressor. They cost around the same as airbrush compressors, tend to have 2-3 gallon tanks, aren't too loud as long as no one is sleeping, and can fill car tires and run a nail gun. If I ever need to airbrush up to 125 psi I'm set...



    As far as Badger compressors (and compressors from most other airbrush companies) like the Vex one go... There is nothing wrong with them, but Badger did a video a while back that was pretty much straight up saying not to buy a compressor from them. They are rebranded no-name compressors that they buy for only slightly less than retail due to the retail already being so low. They them mark them up higher so they don't lose money. They said they only sell them because people wanted to buy the compressor and airbrush from the same company regardless of the price and strongly recommended that people source compressors themselves.

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  5. 1 hour ago, Gryphon said:

    How do you mask parts?  With finding big I would use making tape, but a tiny piece, I don't think would adhere through the force of the primer being blasted on. (Thinks... sticky tack?)


    Poster tack works well. If the part is so small you can't mask it well you can always just scrape off the paint before gluing.

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  6. 4 hours ago, Marc said:

    Yep, Green Stuff World does make a set of silicone molds (I actually have the set on order) but I play RPGs like D&D, Pathfinder, Tales of the Valiant, etc. which use a 1” grid, so only 2 of the 6 molds are of any use to me (not sure what the other 4 sizes are for … Warhammer maybe?)


    For folks that have made bases like this, what have you used as molds for sizes other than the 1” (25 mm) and 2” (50 mm) molds that come in the set? I need to find something to make bases of 3”, 4” etc.


    Are you talking about just round silicone molds? Take a look at baking supplies on Amazon.

  7. 8 hours ago, Cranky Dog said:

    Judging from everyone's experience, I'm still amazed that I never got mould on mine, even when months would go by. I've had paint stains that looked like mould, but it was my original paper that let paint bleed through.


    To this day I wonder if it's because I occasionally let my sponge (though it's really a synthetic shammy) dry out then re-hydrate it with boiling water.



    Um, yeah cleaning your sponge on occasion with boiling water would be a pretty straight forward way to avoid mold. Just putting it through the laundry every once in a while is another good option. 

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  8. 59 minutes ago, The Elder said:

    Has anybody ever used Flood Floetrol 1 qt. Clear Latex Paint Additive FLD6-04 - The Home Depot to thin paints for their Air Brush?  Or have they used it to make washes?    Ten bucks for a quart would go a long way in the painting world. 


    It says latex on the bottle. Unless you are painting minis with latex it isn't what you want. Airbrush thinner for acrylics can be purchased in large bottles for not that much more from amazon or art supply stores.

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  9. As long as what you get has good jaws there isn't much difference between them that isn't just personal preference. The one I have was $13 on amazon and included 18 decent quality small drill bits. Not a lot of reason to pay more than that.


    Be careful about God Hand pricing if you get one. They sell for $25 in Japan, if you are paying more than $30 you are probably getting ripped off by the seller.

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  10. 5 hours ago, Marc said:

    Great info!


    So, you clean and condition your synthetics with the brush soap? For some reason I thought that was just for natural hair brushes.


    You need to use soap that isn't harsh, but you don't have to use brush soap specifically. You might as well though. You'll want to buy some if you ever use natural brushes and it's one of those buy it once and it lasts nearly forever kind of things.

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  11. 37 minutes ago, WhiteWulfe said:

    I'd heard something about CITES paperwork expiring, and then something about a bunch of legal red tape and bureaucracy preventing them from renewing it. 


    The broad CITES agreement for sources of Kolinsky imported from China and Russia expired and the meeting that it would have been extended at was canceled due to covid. I believe this fall is when the meeting is happening now, so thing might change fairly soon. Kolinsky itself isn't actually banned, the name Kolinsky is just commonly used to hide sales of mongoose for India, which is banned.


    If I understand it correctly it's not that Rosemary isn't doing the paperwork and certifying their brushes. It's that they don't want to do the paperwork for every single order that individual customers place. They are still doing it for large batches sent to retailers, they just don't have that many US retailers.

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  12. You'll find it pretty common for people to do the bulk of their painting on each mini with cheap synthetics and then to their finishing work with a kolinsky. Having one or two Kolinskys is a bad thing. I strongly recommend against paying lots of money for "good" synthetic brushes. The difference is quality control and the branding, not the quality of the nylon fibers. If you buy 50 brushes for $10 you can toss to wonky ones yourself (or use them for things that the wonkiness doesn't matter) and have far more brush life than you'd get out of one $14 brush.

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  13. I'd recommend getting either a size 2 or 3 rather than a 1 and 0. Smaller brushes just mean that the paint dries on the brush faster and with any of the quality brushes you listed the tip of the size 0 and tip of the size 3 will be equally as fine for detail work. Pupils are about the only reason to use a brush smaller than a 2.


    As far a the brush I use the most goes, it's cheap size 2 synthetics of amazon that were 50 for $9. 80-90% of a mini can be done with a cheap brush just as well as with an expensive brush. Then use the nice brushes for that last 10-20%.

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  14. On 8/1/2023 at 3:33 PM, Marc said:

    I'm very intrigued by the WetNDri Paint Tray Pallet

    I don't think we are allowed to post product links, but Amazon sells it. Anyone have this one?




    No experience with that particular one, but since in use there is little to no difference between the fanciest most expensive wet palleted ever and baking sheets on damp paper towel it's probably fine. At worst the paper will suck and you'll need to buy parchment paper to replace it.

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  15. To try out a wet palette just get some parchment paper and set it on a damp paper towel. If you don't like it use the rest of the parchment paper to make cookies. Using both is my preference. The wet keeps paint from drying out too fast, but there are paints that will seperate or get too runny. If you are looking for a good dry palette consider a Pop-It fidget toy.

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  16. 1 hour ago, CorallineAlgae said:

    My Gambler's Chest came in today. It's a massive box. Probably going to be another long wait for the last wave.


    Last wave? There are at least 2-3 more waves left as things stand.

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