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cmorse

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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. I'm wondering what the 32 bit board will do to delivery time. I got the impression that a lot of the production was already underway or done. If the board upgrade was as unplanned as it seemed I'd imagine that will push delivery back for the people who choose the option.

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  2. 30 minutes ago, Disciple of Sakura said:

    I'm not sure I want to spend almost $350 on a 3D printer. I was eyeing an Ender around $240, not sure I want to go that much higher, but it sounds like it might be a lot easier to work with.

     

    The biggest issue with the Ender 3 is that thermal runaway protection is disabled by default (fire risk) and the board doesn't have a bootloader installed so turning it on is somewhat of a hassle. 

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  3. One of the good things about Creality is that when they release something new and people start finding problems with it then tend to fix some of those problem is subsequent production runs. So people buying a printer a couple months after release might be getting a better printer than what someone else has. This is also one of the bad things about Creality, since there is a good chance if you're in the first batch of people getting a new design you're probably getting something flawed. There seems to be a lot of new features that haven't been consumer tested yet on this one.

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  4. 7 hours ago, Rob Dean said:

    So tell me a little more about the light you have there...

     

    It's a Moman 96 led rechargeable panel with adjustable color temperature. I paid $30 for it. It's meant for photography and video work. A full charge would last about an hour I think if it were on 100% power, but  that's a lot of light. For painting I use it at 5-10% power along with the ambient light and the battery lasts for hours. I do also use it for photography and no complaints for that use either.

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  5. 9 hours ago, Nunae said:

    This seems pretty nice. I like that there is so much space on the right hand side for the additional tools. Looks like putting the miniature to the right, snapping the whole thing shut and placing it off the dinner table would be possible very quickly. 

     

    Yeah, cleanup is quick as long as you don't let a pile of paint start accumulating outside of it. A couple things to note if you wanted to do something similar; The cutting mat holds the paints in place when its close, if it's left off the paints can migrate to the shelves on the other side. Also if you look under the handle there are big washers. They stick out so that when it's close and you pick it up the handle is supporting some of the weight of the paint half rather than all of it being on the hinge and latches. Without them it was putting torque on the hinge.

    • Like 4
  6. The shelves have a layer of sheet metal glued to them and everything from the minis to the soap has magnets on the bottom. No conventions, just local trips so at most it get carried in and out of my car. If I were to using it somewhere that I'd be carrying it around more I'd definitely want replace the pvc with something lighter. It would be easy enough to do.

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  7. 4 hours ago, Nunae said:

    I'd be on the market for some sort of foldable painting station. But it'd have to be much, much bigger. Living in an apartment I paint on our dinner table, so it takes a lot of time and hassle to get the stuff you need and put it away again after the painting session. I'm a bit envious of the painting station pictures that get posted every once in a while.

    Something that would fold open surround my cutting mat with paint holders and then fold together again to be carried away wouldn't be super portable because of the weight, but I'd instantly use it for in home use.

     

    I have something along those lines. It was pretty easy to make and could probably be done with fairly basic tools. Mine only has paint on one side and holds 96 bottle. I was going for full portable so the other side holds minis, a wet pallet, water cup, brush stand, and led panel. Could obviously double the paint is everything else was separate. You aren't kidding about the weight though, even with paint in only half of it, it weighs a ton.

    • Like 2
  8. 58 minutes ago, Mckenna35 said:

    In for four.  Wife love Labyrinth, and her sister is BIG Dark Crystal fan.  I suspect a BIG chunk of the price is due to the cost of licensing these.  The Henson folks have VERY high standards and won't let just anyone run with their imagry. Since they're officially licensed, they may have been able to get their hands on the original puppets.  Lots of details I never noticed in the movie, like the back of Hoggle's vest!

     

    I don't know, the River Horse games exist so licensing can't be too high.

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  9. The sets definitely seemed like they are designed to make you buy all of them to have any sort of color variety, hopefully they aren't the only option at retail. The October delivery means if they are late at all there is a risk of frozen paints anywhere in the north.

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  10. I don't think there is one thing that's going to work perfectly with every type of technical paint. I have airbrush medium, airbrush thinner, fluid matte medium, heavy gloss medium, and a selection of additives like flow aid and matting agent. If I had to pick just one for the paints you listed I'd probably say airbrush medium.

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  11. 2 hours ago, haldir said:

    About the only time I've ever heard of adding dishsoap in hobbies is for applying decals (water kind).It'll allow you to "hover" the decal in place before final spotting. Granted this is also can be accomplished with Decal set from Microscale or Vallejo.

     

    I've seen a number of recommendations to add a tiny bit to a large glass of water for rinsing bushes and thinning paint. It's also not uncommon in the airbrushing world to thin paint with water that has a touch of dish soap in it. I think the important thing with additives is that that you shouldn't add them to your paint bottles. Mix them on your palette, especially before you've tested them. This doesn't just apply to the weird household additives people come up with, don't expect additives from different brands to play nice with your paint even if they are for "acrylic" paint. There is a lot of variation between some brands on what goes into their acrylic paint.

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  12. 10 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

    @rfarmer124 Did you notice the AGE of the original posts?  

    This is a topic that should have stayed buried, for some very good reasons.  

     

    Once upon a time, probably in the stone age or slightly before that, Pledge floor wax was supposedly pretty much 'clear medium', and could be used to thin paints. (The ingredients have changed many times since then, so don't even think about it). One enterprising minotaur bought a set of paints from Reaper, a set of empty bottles and proceeded to dump half the contents of each bottle of the set over in empty bottles, and top both up with Pledge in the mistaken belief that he would then have TWO sets of paint but at a lower cost, and could sell off one of them. It went badly, and he blamed Reaper.   

    We don't want that kind of minotaur droppings...   

     

    We don't use dish soap because we don't always know what's in it and how it will react  long-term with our paints.    

     

    As for your alcohol tip, that probably works OK on inks, but paints are not inks. What does it do to the binder in the paint? 

    5% ?

    That would be 1 drop of IPA to 20 drops of paint.  

    Unless I'm basecoating a large mini, that's several times more than what I'll put on my palette. 

    Also, never suggest using IPA or other alcohol without mentioning good ventilation, gloves and breathing mask in the same post. There are people out there who won't take precautions unless they are hammered in.

     

    That said, WELCOME!

     

    Pop by in the off-topic subforum for your welcome basket filled with Stroopwaffels and insanity.  

     

    Alcohol is very brand dependant. Tamiya acrylics are typically thinned with isopropyl instead of water. Adding it to Reaper paints the same way would likely be a bad idea though.

    • Like 2
  13. 9 hours ago, Inarah said:

    What the heck is "soft enamel"?  And wow, those get spendy if you want more than one. 

     

     

    A single layer of enamel that leaves each section concave and gives dimensionality. Hard enamel is when each segment gets completely filled so that the top is flat.

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  14. 1 hour ago, Highlander said:

    "Ah!", said he, a light dawning.

     

    What I'm hearing is that one fills with putty's and green stuff and such.  And one should use the sandable versions.  However, one finishes a smooth job with a coat(s) of acrylic paint -- because it doesn't sand well  -- and which makes it smoother.

     

    I'm doing tests for a clear acrylic gel in another application, but hadn't thought to do it with filling and smoothing.

     

    Pardon the photos, but here's what I've been facing.  In the upper photo I have the front side of the board.  I tried to angle the photo so the light would catch the pits on the surface.  I have done nothing to this side but sand, sand, sand and polish, polish, polish.  It looks very good -- where there are not pits.

     

    In the lower photo, I've attempted to fill pits on the back side of the board.  You can see the dark areas -- filled with Mr. Surfacer 1000 -- better, but not completely filled.  There are also some areas I have not attempted to fill.  You can probably see the difference.

    Here's my plan going forward.  Have another attempt with Mr. Surfacer 1000.  Sand it down.  Then apply Mr. Surfacer 1200 -- which has the consistency of a thick acrylic paint.  If all appears smooth, lay on a coat of white spray primer and see if I've addressed my issues.

     

    Sound reasonable?

     

     

     

    I think you're trying to skip steps. If you want a perfectly smooth finish skipping steps is just going to add to your work. First do more than one layer of 1000 before you sand. It shrinks while it dries so you need to account for that. Second if you still need to use 1200 you should sand it before priming. You need to put on enough to account for shrinking so if you're doing it right it won't be perfectly smooth. Third, if you can use a sandable primer. That way if you miss anything you can easy fix it with more sanding and filling instead of needing to try stripping the primer. If you want a truly glass finish you'd probably want to wet sand the primer layer, reprime, and wet sand again, but if you're painting with brushes once you've primed you can probably skip the wet sanding.

    • Like 1
  15. 29 minutes ago, WhiteWulfe said:

    Does it seem somewhat odd to aim for a 300x300mm build plate, when the most common inexpensive but decent printer is what, 235x235mm?

     

    I think that's explained by the sentence ahead of it "Disclaimer: i do not own a 3d printer yet so i have not test printed these models, if you find any error let me know and i will sort out the meshes for you."

     

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