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cmorse

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. I can see a couple possibilities. First, the longer a mold gets used the more super fine details like the words on the scroll are going to go away. The mini that was used in the instructions might have been crisp enough for it to work. Second, you might just not have been delicate enough. I didn't try the dry brushing technique on it so I can't actually say it wouldn't have worked.

     

    The bonus third possibility is the directions you have are just wrong. I dug out my copy and it doesn't say to use a wash and then dry brush. It just says to paint over the text. Basically just using it as a guide to trace. I don't know whose copy is the newer version, but it looks like maybe they figured out that the wash and dry brush wasn't working for people, either due to skill level or model crispness, and updated it.

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  2. Alright, the words are pretty shallow to begin with and I had the fairly filled in with paint on top of that, but it's actually not too bad to do even with that.

     

    First the obvious paint the scroll while obscuring the engraving as little as possible. Second gloss coat the scroll, this is a must. Let the gloss fully dry. Now there are two options, the easier of them is to fill the letters with enamel wash. Once it's dry gently wipe over the scroll with enamel thinner. I used a piece of paper towel just damp, you don't want it wet enough that thinner goes down into the markings. Now you have a perfectly clean scroll with the words whatever color you filled them with.

     

    The second option is to do the same thing, but with regular washes or inks and isopropyl alcohol. Very important though with acrylic washes that you don't let the wash sit after it dries. wipe it off the moment the wash is dry and be gentle wiping so you don't go through the varnish layer. This might not end up as clean as the enamel depending on the wash and whether you wait to long before wiping it off.

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  3. 1 hour ago, Corsair said:

    Stynlrez is the go to primer for anyone using an airbrush, pretty much the standard that all the rest are compared to. If you do need to rattlecan, Army Painter and Tamiya are the only ones that will reliably work well on original Bones.

     

    Stynylrez is also what I'd recommend for brush on primer.

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  4. In general you're better off just buying some primer and not worrying about it. That way you don't have to worry about the type of plastic, metal, or resin and what brand and color from that brand sticks best to whatever type of minis you have. As a bonus you can buy primer in bottles larger than 17ml which will save you money in the long run.

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  5. 11 hours ago, Chirpncia said:

    Reapers or Brown's liener would be your great picks, try it, they're are more useable.  

     

    As a primer it doesn't do anything the actual primers don't do and comparatively it's ridiculously expensive. It's good on bones if you already own it and don't prime all that much, but I'd never suggest buying for the purpose.

  6. 2 hours ago, Jellyranger69 said:


    So THAT’S what y’all are doing with the floor wax....brilliant! Thanks for the tip!

     

    Long before it was discovered by miniature painters scale modelers were using it on cockpit and car windows.

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  7. 7 hours ago, Doug Sundseth said:

    To answer your specific question, for brush-on primers, I like Badger's Stynylrez (which also works great in an airbrush) or Reaper's Brush-on Primers (9108, 9214, or 9299). 

     

    That said:

    • IME airbrush is just as easy to use as a rattlecan. If you have a tremor severe enough that you're worried about paint coming out of the cup, a bottom feed airbrush or airbrush with a cap over the gravity feed cup should handle the issue.
    • I've used poster tack to hold minis down to a painting stick of some sort for priming. Those free paint stirrers work pretty well. With that, you can move the miniature around as you prime it, so coverage is generally easy enough. (Pretty much as @Inarah noted.)
    • When I need more control, I'll put a plastic grocery bag over my hand and use a spray primer on the miniature being held in that hand. The overspray just hits the bag, not my skin (and the bag is reusable), so no problems.
    • Really solid coverage isn't especially necessary with primer. It's going to be covered in paint anyway, so light and uneven coverage will still hold the next layer well.

    Note that for any spray priming, you want to start the spray off the figure(s), sweep across, and end off the figure again. 

     

    Stynylrez is also my recommendation for both brush on and airbrush.

     

    On the topic of airbrushes. Single action external mix airbrush are pretty much like using a rattle can. They are also dirt cheap if you already have a regular air compressor sitting in you garage, you be using a rattle can outside anyway. If you don't already have an air compressor I think they are a less interesting option.

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  8. 50 minutes ago, Kennet said:

    @cmorse - I had thought about using a hot wire cutter but I was concerned about potential fumes being given off. I don't have ventilation for that type of experiment, unfortunately.

     

    @BLZeebub - I am trying to fit them on square bases for warhammer / kings of war. I thought it was going to be best to get rid of the molded base so they would sit better. I might try cutting away just the outer part of the base and then seeing how that looks on top of a square. Probably could build the base up to cover up what's left.

     

    No, I wouldn't do that at all. What I was referring to is that a lot of plastic minis get very soft in sub-boiling water, almost to the point of gummy. At that point you can easily slice through them with an hobby knife or razor blade. Once cool they go back to being firm. How well would work depends on the plastic used.

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  9. Airbrush medium is basically (it's likely to have extra water and additives) just airbrush paint without any pigment (color) added. Thinner medium is basically the same as airbrush medium but likely has different ratios of additives. Airbrush thinner is mystery meat. It could have alcohol in it or mineral spirits or acrylic resin or ammonia (for those windex fans) or all sorts of things. It could just be water with some flowaid and drying retarder. It's good to be careful mixing brands of paint and thinner unless you know they are definitely compatible.

     

    You can use all three to thin paint for use in an airbrush which is why it seem like people use them interchangeably. Their more prescribed use is for airbrush medium to thin non-airbrush paint to use in an airbrush, thinner medium to turn thicker brush paint into thinner brush paint, and airbrush thinner to make airbrush paints thinner than they are.

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  10. 1 hour ago, Highlander said:

     

    1.  How long does the putty take to dry?  I'm going to let my current mini dry overnight and see it that is sufficient.  I had a bottle I"d never uses and am using it now ... until I can get a tube and compare.

     

    2.  Does it sand?

     

    3.  I think I'm putting it on a bit thin.  I've modified my approach and, toward the end, began putting it on significantly thicker and tried to blend it in with the surrounding surface.  We'll see.

     

    4. I have discovered, as I apparently overthinned the putty, that a thin wash seems to be helpful in smoothing out rough surfaces ... such as a cloak with decidedly bumpy patches.  And, in the case of a Grecian robe, I've been able to close two holes that an imperfect casting provided and to fill a couple of pits in the robe.  That is impressing me.

     

     

    It's just acrylic paint with filler in it to make it shrink less as it dries, otherwise known as modeling paste. Marble dust is common, though I don't know if that's what Vallejo uses. It can be sanded a bit, but usually you can smooth it before it dries so there is no need to. Drying time is entirely dependent on how thick you put it on along with the temp and humidity. If you do want to sand longer is better, I'd leave it at least a day before sanding.

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  11. 3 hours ago, Grefven said:

    "Piotr Borowski, manager of the company Sans Détour"

     

    Yepp. This says it all.

     

    I hope Kickstarter takes back control over their platform, and turning it back to what i was used to be, so we could get rid of all these scammers that plague it.

     

    The way I read it he was one of the owners of  Play & Win, the company Pascal Bernard originally had the contract with, that got bought out by Mythic. I don't think he had any part in Mythic.

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  12. Do you ever hit the wood against glass while rinsing? If the finish gets cracked so that water can get at the wood easier it can flake. Another way for the finish to crack is temperature. Going from a frozen mail envelope to a 70 degree house (or the other direction) can cause little cracks that can eventually lead to flaking.

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  13. 1 hour ago, Doug Sundseth said:

     

     

    But I'll also mention that I've had some success (with metal figures ONLY) putting painted figures into the oven for half an hour or so at 200°F. This seems to allow the paint to form a very hard polymer layer, reducing damage from travel and play. If you do this, you are doing it ENTIRELY at your own risk. It's pretty easy to forget about that plastic weapon you used or the glue that can't handle the heat or the base that disintegrates on the baking pan, or whatever. I do not warrant any positive effect from this.

     

     

     

     

    I've never bothered with this for paint, but a long standing trick for epoxy is just putting it under an incandescent light. Even the heat from having the blub 3-6 inches away is enough to drastically effect the cure time. It would probably also be effective on acrylics while being much safer than the oven for plastic minis.

     

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  14. I think even if you're going to go off the deep end I'd start with either the bones or the pathfinder sets and then decide if it made sense to add a full set of the other one. They are all unique colors, but I'm not really sure they are different enough that I'd want everything in both sets. That said, even with all 120 bottles there would be lots of mixing going on for shades and highlights. If you want to avoid that sort of mixing you might want to consider a selection of triads instead.

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