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cmorse

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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. I think even if you're going to go off the deep end I'd start with either the bones or the pathfinder sets and then decide if it made sense to add a full set of the other one. They are all unique colors, but I'm not really sure they are different enough that I'd want everything in both sets. That said, even with all 120 bottles there would be lots of mixing going on for shades and highlights. If you want to avoid that sort of mixing you might want to consider a selection of triads instead.

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  2. From Golden I'd say their Fluid Acrylic line is closer to hobby paint than the High Flow line. The High Flows are in the same category as Liquitex Acrylic Inks, which from a miniatures hobby perspective I'd call pre-thinned airbrush paints. The Golden Fluid Acrylics come in both gloss and matte. The matte is more on the satin side though. Utrecht Fluid acrylics are another easy to find option, they are matte. Artist's Loft (Michaels brand) fluid acrylics were also good, matte, and very cheap, but I think they were discontinued.

  3. 4 hours ago, Cranky Dog said:

    Science has demonstrated that a better solution would be to use crumpled paper.

     

    Kleenex/tissue paper is not springy enough to absorb more than a few shocks in any one direction, but crumpled paper is.

     

    I think you're underestimating what I meant by more. Packing minis with kleenex/toilet paper is more like packing them with cotton balls than it is crumpled paper. The mini shouldn't move at all if you do it right.

  4. 8 hours ago, Highlander said:

    If I were to get a tube of Clear Magenta (Quinacridone Magenta, PR122) and use it to paint a robe on a mini, what steps should I take.  Condition it with mediums?

     

    Depends what you mean by "tube". If you mean artist paints I'd avoid heavy body completely, soft body you'd probably want to thin a fair bit and add some flow improver, fluid (comes in a bottle rather than a tube) is very close to miniatures paint without needing additives. With all of those you have to pay attention to whether they are gloss or matte. Alternatively what Doug is likely suggesting "Clear Magenta" is Reaper's name for Quinacridone Magenta and has all the normal hobby paint additives already mixed in. The other hobby brands probably sell it too, but you'd have to figure out under what color name.

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  5. 16 hours ago, ced1106 said:

    I have a wide variety of paints from different manufacturers (still should get some P3 if they ever go on sale!) and I think it's better to have such a variety than focus on a single manufacturer's paint lines. Different consistencies and thicknesses mean you're covered for all sorts of different painting situations. It's too bad that Reaper isn't emphasizing its Triads more. I don't particularly like to paint, nor do I know which shade of whatever color will actually work best. With triads, if you have a ballpark idea of what color you want, a triad will probably cover what you want, and tell you what shades to use for highlighting and shading as well. 

     

    I thought Triads pretty much was Reapers paint marketing. The only reason the HD rebranding is getting emphasis now is that the bones minis are doing so well, before that it was all triads.

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  6. 16 minutes ago, Gargs said:

    So you just use primer then instead of sat Brown liner, etc.? 

     

    What about for base colors and such. Do you use reaper paints? How much do you tend to think those? 

     

    Using liner is a waste of money if you are using it more than occasionally. The price per oz is ridiculous compared to primer.

     

    Once you prime them with Stynylrez you can use whatever paint you want. At that point you are painting on the primer rather than the PVC so the mini isn't any more hydrophobic than any other primed mini. 

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  7. 23 hours ago, PaganMegan said:

    Communications, period.

     

    Never contacting the many, many people that had pledged and not received ANYTHING.

     

    After the whirlwind tour of the history, I will never deal with either company. :grr:

     

    I was referring to what their problem was rather than what backer's problems with them were. Really two different things. Lots of reasons not to support them going forward though.

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  8. 7 hours ago, odinsgrandson said:

    I haven't seen any of Archon's HIPS yet, but I would like to.  I think that plastic is better for the retail market anyway, and it looks to me like that's going to make up a big portion of their financial plan going forward.

    I think it is good to see that Ninja Division is willing to let some things go to others who will fulfill.  I know Archon's reputation is (deservedly) shady, but I think this will likely get things into the hands of backers, and on the shelves where the rest of us can pick them up.

     

     

    I still wonder if AVP's issues were largely due to the normal early Kickstarter problems (didn't charge enough, scope got out of control, etc).  It looks like Archon is going to use a similar plan to fulfill this Kickstarter (simultaneously produce new miniatures alongside the Kickstarter ones).

     

    AVP's big problems were a combination of the standard underestimating time and costs along with some super bad lines of communication with the IP holder. Everything needed back and forth approvals and it seemed like no one in either company ever set up a good way to handle the back and forth.

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  9. The new system goes together reasonably fast, I'd guess much faster than the old stuff based on looks. As far a quality goes, everything is good for the most part.  The one real quality issue is the notches where the connectors go aren't always the right size. Most work fine, but you do have to recut some of them yourself. This is a known issue that has existed across multiple projects and was addressed by posting a video on how to recut the notches that are too small, so I'd expect it to still be an issue this time. Another thing I noticed on the Core Space punch boards was some "straight lines" that were a bit wavy. Nothing to the point of actually being a problem. I probably wouldn't notice while playing, but did see it on a number of things while punching stuff out. It was likely the cutting dies were used too many times before getting replaced and got a little warped.

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  10. 31 minutes ago, Rignes said:

    I just was noticing even after  a good shake by hand that there was still  some separation.  I was considering buying some agitators and putting them in but didn't want to bother if there already was one.

     

    The glass beads in them are certainly better than nothing, but adding something heavier definitely improves ease of mixing a lot. Glass just isn't heavy enough to quickly mix super well.

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  11. 1 hour ago, Shogun said:

    Thanks for all the help. The 1/8 to 1/4 was bit of a run around, for me its strange that iwata and badger use different fittings. A friend of mine has another compressor that I'm going to borrow for a while which fits 1/4 so I ended up getting:

     

    NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action 0.35 needle Airbrush

    Moisture Water Trap 1/8

    Quick Disconnect set 1/8

    10ft Braided  Airbrush hose 1/8 with 1/4 Adapter fitting

    Air brush cleaner kit (washing tools, pot etc)

    Cleaner

    Vallejo Airbrush Thinner

    200PCS 3.0ml Pipettes
     

    I'll let you know how it goes!

     

     

     

    Regarding the fittings. There is a bit more to it than 1/4 vs 1/8. It's also BSP vs NPT. The 1/8 stuff you're getting will have BSP thread. The 1/4 on the compressor will have NPT threads. Ideally your adaptor should be 1/8 BSP to 1/4 NPT which are harder to find and a bit more expensive. On 1/4" pipe BSP and NPT are close 19 threads per inch vs 18 thread per inch. There are people who will throw on extra teflon tape and just cram them together, but you're much better off if you can find the correct fitting. (All this is assuming the compressor you are borrowing in a shop compressor)

     

    As to why they have different fitting it's pretty simple if you think about it both Badger and Paasche airbrushes are manufactured in the US, why wouldn't they use the same fittings that come on every standard air compressor made to be sold in the US and Canada? Most other Airbrush companies are in Europe and Asia where BSP is much more the thing. Again they are just using the standard fitting for their region.

     

    To make all this a bit more annoying, every once in awhile you'll come across no name airbrush compressors that use unlabeled NPT threads (because Badger and Paasche) or even have incorrect mixes of the two.

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  12. On 6/2/2019 at 12:34 PM, Shogun said:

    After reading more and the advice here I'm now looking at a kit, Here
    I would add cleaning pot and cleaner + flow improver, its is $200CAD all in and I get a compressor though that is the very top end of my budget and would look to upgrading the airbrush in a few months. Any thoughts?

     

    Again thanks for all the great advice thus far

     

    Can't tell you anything about that specific kit, but it seems pretty standard for an inexpensive set off Amazon. The compressors are usually the same as the name brand ones, but may or may not have have gone through as much QC.  The impression I got when deciding what to buy was that they usually as long as they don't burn out right away they last pretty well and do a good job. If there is no warranty on it make sure to put it through the paces within whatever the return window is.

     

    I ended up going with a store branded "quiet" compressor instead. Not as quiet as a typical airbrush compressor, but not super loud either. It was also slightly cheaper, 2 gal air tank, and I liked the idea of being able to also use it on tires and nail guns. It also had a 2 year warranty that involved throwing it in my car and driving to the store if I had trouble, which was actually a big part of my decision. Also since I had decided on a Badger airbrush it meant I didn't have to think about thread adapters and my entire system works with stuff from any hardware store. Since you're planning on getting a Neo the thread advantage wouldn't be there for you though and you'd have an easier time with connections on the compressor you're looking at.

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  13. The only issue you're going to have with the compressor, aside from it being cheap and noisy, is the connections. Most airbrush stuff has British threads (BSP) while that compressor has US threads (NPT). Somewhere in your line you'll need an adapter or other work around. If you buy a moisture trap/regulator pay attention to it's thread type too. If you buy one online marketed for airbrushes it will probably be BSP while if you go to a local hardware store it will probably be NPT. Not a big deal if you're buying an adapter, but it will change which side pf the regulator the adapter goes on. 

     

    That said I believe the Paasche hoses you're looking at are NPT (Badger hoses are as well) and would work with the compressor's fittings as well as hardware store moisture trap/regulators. However, it won't connect directly to the Iwata airbush you're looking at, so you'd need an adapter anyway.

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