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cmorse

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by cmorse

  1. Flow improver makes to metal flakes settle a lot faster so you need to mix your paint puddle every time you dip your brush, but also make metallics go on much better and smoother.
  2. That's true for most W&N drawing inks, but not that specific one. You'll find most white inks are pigment based even if everything else in the line is dye based. Likewise the india ink and metallic ink in the line are also not dye base. Those just aren't things you do with dye.
  3. There is a lot of marketing going on in art materials these days, particularly with acrylic paint. The ink most people use on miniatures in recent years is what used to just be called high flow acrylic paint. The ink part is marketing and can confuse a lot of buyers. If you want what most people are using buy something with acrylic in the name. There are lots of pigment based ink that are not acrylic and there are people who use them on minis. They used to be fairly commonly used for washed, but they aren't what most people are talking about when the say they use ink today. The ink you have is pigment based rather than dye, but it uses shellac rather than acrylic resin for a binder. Acrylic inks can be delicate if you airbrush them on and can rub off when using a paintbrush over them if they haven't cured sufficiently. When you do something like a zenithal prime it's best if you set them aside for a few days before brush painting on them.
  4. Yeah, I was disappointed in the dinosaurs. To me they seem like they lack the subtlety of the originals, but maybe they will be better once they are sculpted. I do like the other trees though so I'll probably at least get those since it looks like now that the kickstarter is over you can get them separately instead of as just an add on to the main sets.
  5. It's probably the same or very close. It's very straight forward, so once you start doing it you'll likely have no trouble even without looking anything up.
  6. Disappointing to see that the trees aren't part of this. The buildings are nice enough and if stls had been part of the original kickstarter they might have had me. At this point though there are so many options at better prices that I don't thing these are nice enough to justify their cost. Interesting trees like they originally showed are something that doesn't have a flooded market though, particularly the dino-trees.
  7. That one is harder to say say just from a picture. If the main problem is just getting the supports off and otherwise it's printing well I'd probably start by fiddling with the supports to find a setting that made them work.
  8. The wrist is just going to be a smooth flat surface though. If it doesn't end up smooth enough just sand it, adding filler if necessary.
  9. Wrist down seems like the obvious choice as long as it looks good in the slicer.
  10. If it's always happening at the same height look for something that might be catching or binding at that height. Otherwise it's probably a partial clog caused by the bowden tube slipping or being badly cut. Print and install the hot end fix if you haven't already.
  11. Another factor is the paint you're putting the wash over. The more matte it is the more likely the wash will cling everywhere it touches, which can lead to tide marks and staining.
  12. Also haven't don't much with white glazes, but just from how the pigments behave you probably want a zinc white rather than a titanium white.
  13. It looks like an HDD so as long as it didn't get damaged somehow it shouldn't lose data due to not being plugged in. SSDs are the ones that will eventually lose data if not plugged in. How quickly they start losing data depends on the type of SSD and the temp. It it's in the 80-90s the drive could be corrupt inside a month and should be powered on weekly to avoid data loss. If they never leave an air conditioned house they should be powered on at least every 6 months.
  14. Krita is the main free one that is designed specifically for that purpose.
  15. If it had something that required a 6001 it would show up in the sds. They can hide the exact ingredients, but they aren't allowed to hide if something requires specific safety measures. It does say "Breathing dust or mist may irritate the nose and throat." Dust and mist are both in the realm of particle filters rather than vapor filters. Another indicator is that many of the things that need a 6001 will have a picture of a flame on the bottle. You should still check the SDS, but most of the solvents used in paint that give off organic vapors are kinda flammable.
  16. 2097s are what I use, mostly due to getting a big pack of them on sale. They aren't really full on organic vapor protection, only nuisance level. It's carbon filter's main purpose is to eliminate smells, not actually protect you. After it's thin carbon filter stops working they still function normally as a particulate filter, so you don't really need to worry about the change interval relative to other particulate filters from a safety perspective. Again though it really depends what you're actually spraying. If you need organic vapor protection they are a bad replacement for 6001s. None of the cleaners or thinners I have actually give off organic vapors, so adding in a 6001 wouldn't add any benefit, just hassle and expense. Using a 6001 without a clear purpose can also lead to false security thinking it covers everything. For example, some people clean their airbrushes with cleaners that contain ammonia or even add those cleaners to their paint. A 6001 gives no protection from ammonia vapors. If using a 6001 with a prefilter (so many people just use 6001s with no particulate filter at all...) means assuming you're covered and not checking a specific product's sds it's a bad choice. Using the right filter for what you actually need is usually the best option since it means you've figured out what the right filter is.
  17. The SDS says N95 are fine for Createx 4011. Though being safer certainly won't hurt you it also won't really help you if you aren't using something that the 6001 is meant to block. Things that don't actually turn into vapors and specifically organic vapors aren't to care about the active carbon in a 6001. If you aren't using something that gives off organic vapors, which in mini painting usually means volatile solvents, it won't actually give any extra protection. As soon as you add something like isopropyl you are in the organic vapor category.
  18. The pink are fine for the dust from paints like Reaper. Airbrush cleaners are more questionable so you'd have to check the SDS for the specific one you use. Any of the acrylics that contain solvents, like Tamiya, need the organic vapour cartridges. If you add solvents as a thinner to a paint like Reaper you'd need the organic vapour cartridge. In general checking the sds should tell you which type of filter to use if it's a paint that's meant to be sprayed. If it's not a paint that's meant for an airbrush you might have to dig deeper to be sure. P vs N shouldn't matter unless you're doing something like using an airbrush to spray your cast iron with canola.
  19. It's also worth keeping in mind that not all acrylics are the same. With some, like Reaper and (most) Vallejo, you only really need to worry about the paint particles. With others, like Tamiya, you also need to worry about the vapors.
  20. Yep, that tends to take care of most clogging issues all on it's own.
  21. If you haven't done the hotend fix yet, it's the simplest and most effective way to end clogging due to bowden tube slipping, which is the main cause of clogging.
  22. I own mostly Reaper HD paints and don't really have any complaints about them, but if I were to choose one brand and never buy paint from any other brand Vallejo would be the easy choice. They are a full on paint company. Want to slap craft paint onto some terrain? The make it. Want multiple lines of hobby paint that are distinct in the ways they behave, they have at least 3 or 4. Want to paint minis with artist acrylic gouache, fluid acrylic, or acrylic ink , or...? Sure. Want to start with fluid acrylic and add all the different additives yourself to make a custom hobby paint? If you really wanted to you could. If you had to pick one paint line it's a much more open question, but if given the whole brand Vallejo is just that much bigger than the rest that they probably have something that will do what you want in one of their lines. Actual advice on which brand to get, try a few. You probably want paints from more than one brand to do different things. If their channel is popular and they only use one specific brand there is an extremely high chance they don't actually buy their own paint.
  23. Same price? That sounds like either an amazing price for the SSD or a terrible price for the HDD. Amazon has the 4TB WD Blue for $75, I wouldn't bother with something like a black just for storage. Samsung SSD tend to be somewhere around $200-300 for 2TB.
  24. I think in the long run the 200x170x~ build area would be more limiting than the more standard large formats like 350x350x400. Especially since the higher quality settings seem to be more limited. There are a few things it would do better, but unless those are the majority of your planned uses it's an easy pass.
  25. For internal drives it's more of a cost efficiency thing at this point. SSDs are as good or better than HDDs at this point for that kind of storage, as long as you get one that's made for data storage. If you go with an external drive though HDDs are are safer. SSDs need to get powered on someone regularly to prevent the data from degrading.
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