cmorse
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Posts posted by cmorse
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Green Stuff World is the go to for buying repackaged cheap things at insane markups. When they are feeling spicy they'll also patent other people products as start making them for themselves.
K&S Precision Metals sells lots of sizes of thin, straight brass rod and is pretty easy to find if you don't want to use paperclips.
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1 hour ago, ManvsMini said:
@cmorse really appreciate your help (and patience!) with this. I want to make sure I get this right before I start buying the hose and adapters. So if you don't mind double-checking me?
- My compressor has a 1/4" NPT male fitting, and comes with an to make it a 1/8" BSP male fitting (I checked, and the fitting is inside the box)
- The Badger Patriot 105-2XR is a 1/8" BSP fitting (near as I can tell)
- The Badger 51-042 QD coupler can hook up to either 1/4" hose or a 1/8" hose
So, with that in mind, my logic is the following:
- Use the 1/8" BSP adapter male fitting on the compressor
- Buy the Badger QD coupler for the airbrush
- Use the adapter ending on that quick-release to make it 1/8" BSP male fitting
- Buy a hose with two 1/8" BSP female ends
Sound about right?
Badger airbrushes use M5 .5mm connections. Some come with an adapter to 1/8 BSP, but for most that's a separate purchase.
I took a look at my setup and I have the Badger 51-042 QD, it actually solves everything. The male side is an M5 and attaches to the airbrush directly and the female side is an 1/8 BSP with an M5 adapter over it. So that adapter plus a 1/8 BSP f/f hose should do the trick.
A note about the sizes of connectors and why it's such a pain- The listed size and the actual size won't match. The 1/8" in BSP is talking about what the inside diameter would be if those threads were on a steel pipe. That's why if you look at an 1/8 BSP connector it looks around 1/4" and a 1/4" BSP connector look 1/2". NTP is the same, but the US version. On the other hand the M5 that Badger uses is actually 5mm on the outside, so it looks like what you'd imagine 1/8" connector to be.
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A hose that matches the compressor's fitting (looks like 1/4″NPT, but check what the listing you order from says), a female quick connect that attaches to that hose , and a Badger male quick connect. The airbrush end of the hose doesn't need be Paasche, you might even find one that has a badger end, it doesn't really matter since the quick connection is standard and takes care of the adapting.
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5 hours ago, ManvsMini said:
Ended up getting this (the Badger Patriot 105-2XR Arrow, small cup), as well as finding the Paasche air compressor/tank I wanted on sale as well. Order just got placed, so the airbrush journey is officially underway! I'll buy another one with a bigger cup later down the road if I determine that I need it.
My own research shows I'll need to buy some adapters to make the fittings work between the Badger airbrush and the Paasche compressor, I'll have to contact Badger to make sure which adapters will be needed. Still need to order some hoses, the brush holder, thinner and find a good deal on a spray booth; wish they'd list the decibel rating on the fans for those.
I'd suggest getting a hose that matches the compressor and get quick releases to go between the hose and the brush. You'll end up with some extra quick connect bits, but you shouldn't need any extra adapters.
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I have the 1/3 and it's a good size if you plan to do either lots of minis at once with a single paint (like priming) or every want to use it on bigger things (like model kits). Otherwise the smaller cup would be fine. The big cup is definitely unnecessary for the amount of paint you'd use on a single mini. Amazon seems to have the smaller one for $54 at the moment which seems pretty good.
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32 minutes ago, lexomatic said:
If you got it at a retailer, I'd also tell them after emailing reaper above, so they know whoever returned the set didn't return it complete.
Unless there are other signs that it was returned I'd actually assume it came from Reaper missing the tutorial. They have great customer service to replace missing things, but I've had a surprising number of missing items in sealed packages on the occasions I've ordered direct from Reaper.
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13 hours ago, Count Urlik said:
That's a good point. I'm pretty hit or miss with the cap, mostly when I'm worried about tipping on bigger things. For the most part, my priming sessions are usually only 5 - 10 minutes and are done without a cap, so I'm sure it would help.
At the same time, I'm always game for trying a chemical solution... 😈
The lid will make a huge difference if you've been letting Stynylrez sit in your cup for 5-10 minutes.
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2 hours ago, Count Urlik said:
Ooh, that’s interesting! Now that has me wondering if an occasional RainX treatment would make my airbrush bowl clean out easier? Most of what I spray is stynylrez, and (for good reasons, when you think about it…) that stuff is hard to clean up. Good test!
Do you use the lid for your airbrush cup? It keeps the paint from drying as quickly making it easier to clean and helps prevent clogs caused by paint drying in the cup.
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Yeah, as many drops as it takes to get it as thin as you want it.
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That's a lot of flow improver in your example, unless Reaper's comes pre-watered down. I have a mix of water and liquitex flow aid 20 to 1 in a dropper bottle. That gets added to the paint until it's the consistency I want for a wash.
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Check to see if any of the bigger art supply/craft stores in your area have a store brand matte fluid acrylic. I've used Utrecht and Artist Loft. With a bit of flow aid it's not much different than mini paint.
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That's odd. All I did was right click on the image you posted and it came right up as the 4th thing in visual matches with the amazon picture of the 6 minis in a row with "Dynamic Characters" above them. Still comes up the same doing it now. Maybe you missed it because it's a completely different picture?
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Google lens is always a good place to start for searches like this. The amazon link (sold out) for them is the 4th item on the list of visual matches for the picture you posted. They are "JollyBard 36 Piece RPG Tabletop Miniatures Figurines".
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Not a coating, but I have a silicone palette for one of my dry palettes and it's definitely hydrophobic. I'm sure you could find something the right size in silicone. As a bonus it's really easy to clean.
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4 hours ago, NOLA Chris said:
excellent find!
Thanks for the pic!
I've always worried I'm going too bright with my historic minis
It depends. Even going pretty far back there were also lots of bright colors for people who could afford them. Once you start hitting the 1600-1700s there were some bright colors even for the lower classes.
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I don't know anything about Monument paint, but in general transparent paint just means they chose pigments that aren't particularly opaque. If you paint it over a black line you'd many many coats before the black line vanished. Other than that it's usually the same as any other paint within it's own line. Be aware that whatever is underneath will show through more, but aside from that it's just paint.
Contrast type paints and washes add things like extra flow aid and medium to help the pigment pool in recesses.-
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A steel wire wheel on a miniature? Sounds like a bad idea to me.
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On 4/4/2022 at 12:37 PM, The Joe said:
Ugh. Yeah that sounds like it might be the issue. I live in Southwest Florida. Getting humidity less than forty percent is impossible. Got any recommendation for a decent, basic airbrush to seal coat with?
If all you plan to do with it is varnish and prime I'd consider a cheap external mix like the Badger 350 or Menards/Home Depot/Ebay equivalent. The brand doesn't really matter. They are cheap, easy to clean, no maintenance, and do the thing. The Badger and hardware store versions also tend to come with US standard fittings that can simplify things if you are planning on using a normal air compressor, like many people have in their garage, though that can also complicate things if you want to use most airbrush specific compressors.
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7 hours ago, Inarah said:
No, it's past the point of no return. It's either VERY old paint, or it was left in a warehouse with no AC or no heat and it has chemically separated. I'm guessing you did not buy it from Reaper, because their paint is always fresh. If your vortex won't mix it, you're outta luck.
Reaper has excellent customer service, but they may not guarantee 3rd party purchases like this.
It's still March, even ordering from direct from Reaper you can get paints that were frozen in shipping this time of year if someone lives in or the package would pass though some place that freezes.
(don't order acrylic paint online from anyone in the winter if you live in a place that freezes)-
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On 2/28/2022 at 9:57 AM, Cygnwulf said:
I know badger developed an airbrush primer specifically for priming 3d prints, though I've never tried it.
I checked reviews when it was released. Pretty much all of them said it didn't really fill the lines any more that the regular badger stynylrez.
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I know of a company that sells them 2 for $5. There is already a link to them at the top of the page.
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Yeah, it's just a glazing medium.
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I always prime with Stynelrez so I can't say how the Vallejo would go on without a layer of primer, but if you start with a dust coat my guess is that you wouldn't have to worry about bones being hydrophobic. No idea how well it would hold up to wear without the primer though.
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16 hours ago, Cyradis said:
Uhh... is this a rip off the Stormcrow nerd bars in Canada?
Seem more likely it was inspired by either Betrayal at House on Haunted Hill or Mansions of Madness. Then they named it with a Tolkien reference because Tolkien reference.
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Transparent grids
in General Fantasy
Posted
Big cheap poster frames from places like Walmart with lines drawn or painted on is what people used to use.