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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. On 1/7/2022 at 1:52 PM, Cygnwulf said:

    TBH, the price per figure for STLs isn't that terrible (if we ignore CGTrader), $2-$5 seems to be about the price range I'm seeing for PC size characters, some larger and more impressive monsters can be more and on MMF

    It does seem that a lot of designers are pricing for sales, but MMF in particular gives out those discount codes like candy, so you have to price a little high and expect people to take the 50% off.  

    but, say $5 for an STL and about $0.50 worth of resin, plus a little time, and even allowing for wear and tear on the machine and other consumables, I'm still well under $10 for a mini, which seems to be the going rate for metal or resin 28-32mm miniatures.  


    The subscription services are skewing the perceived value quite a bit by offering bat broccoli crazy discounts for the bundle in return for the subscription.  Let's be honest, of those 50 or so minis Epic gives you each month, how many would you have even bought if they weren't bundled?  They get away with it because they have a few hundred people who all keep saying "I'm keeping it because it's such a great deal!"


    To be fair though, if you ask yourself how many of them you would have bought and the answer is at least 2-3 small or one large for that month it actually is a good-great deal.

    • Like 1
  2. If it's something you want consistently repeatable I'd recommend cutting the bottoms off in 3dbuilder instead so that you can save the results as stls. Otherwise it's pretty easy to get something a bit taller or a bit shorter the next time you want to print them. Doing it in the slicer is a great way to do it as a one off though to avoid the clutter of extra files.

    • Like 2
  3. 2 hours ago, ManvsMini said:


    Your wet palette is not a science experiment...


    Maybe yours isn't. I have one that I used for a month without cleaning beyond changing it's parchment paper and has now been sitting closed with an airtight seal for roughly the past 3 months with both water and paint inside. I check it once a month. Currently there is heavy condensation on the lid, 2 colors are easily usable, a couple other could maybe be made usable, the sponge looks fine with little paint bleed through, and there is no smell of mildew or signs of mold. There are some spots on the parchment that look a bit like mildew, but might just be interesting patterns from paint spreading and separating. Since there is no smell and the sponge shows no signs of mildew I will assume the spots to be paint and continue the experiment.

    Palette consists of a water proof phone case, Masterson sponge, Reynolds parchment paper, and 4 wheat pennies than has been lightly buffed with Scotch Brite at the start of the experiment.

    • Like 3
  4. 21 hours ago, Maledrakh said:

    Also, Copper is quite poisonous if ingested in more than trace amounts, so don't eat glitter that isn't food grade.

    (Cheap glitter often has copper in it.)


    Family legend has it that copper was how my great uncle quit smoking. His kids hid thin copper wires inside his cigarettes. Made him so sick that he couldn't look at cigarette after that without wanting to puke. So in addition to not eating the copper in your wet palette, smoking it should also be avoided.

    • Like 3
  5. 36 minutes ago, rubegon said:

    Yeah, I ordered the wrong ones.  I think I looked at the short handles and later came back to add them and opened the wrong page.  It still seems weird to me that the size difference between the 0 and 1 travel brushes is so huge.  The travel 1, 2, and 3 all look pretty close to the same size.  Oh well


    Yeah, the sizing is definitely weird. Ordering by the size I'd never expect how big the 1 is. As long as the tip is good on it though I don't think it's a bad thing. I've found myself using size 6 brushes for base coating quite a bit. As long as the tip is good they give just as much detail as a 1, but are easier to get smoother coats with due to how they hold the paint.

    • Like 1
  6. 21 hours ago, R2ED said:

    I would never use spray cans inside, but that's a good note to put for all to see.  


    Knowing not to use strong propellants indoors is good.  And knowing is half the battle.  Gooooooo Joe!


    This also include solvent based paints, like Tamiya acrylics, used in an airbrush.

    • Like 1
  7. That's similar to what I use, though I use a better fan. I'd recommend adding a MERV2 fiberglass filter in front of the better filter. It with catch larger particles and a lot of the over spray so that the better filter doesn't clog as fast. You can go much longer without needing to replace either filter that way.

    Don't ever use rattle cans or solvent based paints with that set up. That kind of fan can light the fumes on fire.

    • Like 1
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  8. The amount of parchment paper that gets wasted is trivial compared to the cost of precut paper. However if you really don't want scraps just plan your cuts out better. With the small palette you just need to 8.25x6.75 pieces from the standard 15" wide roll and your only waste will the the small scrap at the end of the roll.


  9. FW Daler inks are just high flow acrylic paint. Anything you can do with acrylic paint should be fine with them. Instead of matte medium you can just add a matte additive. It already has medium in it so adding more medium will dilute the pigment. Add something like a heavy body matte medium you'd basically have what you'd consider normal acrylic paint.

    • Thanks 1
  10. 8 hours ago, Samedi said:


    Thanks for the information, @cmorse


    On the can it says for acrylics and oils, so the Sennelier varnish has been my go-to for my newer pewter figures so far. I never had any issues - in fact, it worked very well. Always did two coats of Sennelier Gloss followed by a light dusting of AP Anti-Shine and I was very happy with the results. Could be that I was just lucky until now, though... 😊


    I might have looked at the wrong one on their website then. The picture of what I looked at only had oil paints listed on it.

    • Like 1
  11. On 9/23/2021 at 1:58 PM, Samedi said:

    Thanks @Inarah. Actually I'm not sure, it just says "for acrylics and oil, but there's some acetone in it, so you may be right.


    What I forgot to mention was Step 4.5:

    First apply another safety coat of Army Painter Satin Spray Varnish, because I have it and never use it much. So there's your acrylic rattle can. 🤭


    As for the turpentine: I'm way too scared to try that. So I'll just let it sit and let the chemistry do it's thing. Maybe it will stay tacky, maybe it will eventually harden and maybe I'll end up with a blob of slime. We'll see...


    If I remember I'll post how it went in a few weeks, for science!


    Also, thanks @Wren, seems we posted at the same time. Since this mini wasn't meant for the table, I take "tacky" and see how it works out.😊


    Their website says it's "Synthetic resin based final varnish. Completely colorless. Rapid drying. Gives a resistant film, but is difficult to reverse. Only apply to completely dry paint.
    Thinner: Rectified Turpentine spirit." So it looks like it already contains turpentine and as best I can tell is intended for oil paint rather than acrylics. There is a reasonable chance that the tackiness is the solvent in the varnish reacting with varnish you already put on.

    • Like 2
  12. 1 hour ago, Anne said:

    Golden acrylics make some spiffy interference colors that shift between shades which can be fun to experiment with and have a metallic sheen to them. Pebeo I think makes some as well. With both paint companies I would thin them a good amount before applying. For metal metals, I've used GW & Reaper metallics, thin down alot, with several layers built up. You could try using flow improver, or medium with water, to make it last longer on a wet palette, but not sure if it would affect the metal flakes, probably not.


    Flow improver makes to metal flakes settle a lot faster so you need to mix your paint puddle every time you dip your brush, but also make metallics go on much better and smoother.

  13. 54 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:


    Careful on that. If you are talking about the one that I put a picture of, and was confirmed by @MoonglowMinis, then that ink is dye-based, not pigment-based. The pic came directly from W&N's site, and they state dye-based.


    That's true for most W&N drawing inks, but not that specific one. You'll find most white inks are pigment based even if everything else in the line is dye based. Likewise the india ink and metallic ink in the line are also not dye base. Those just aren't things you do with dye.

  14. On 8/8/2021 at 2:35 PM, MoonglowMinis said:

    Yep.  That's the one.

    I've had issues with using water-based inks before (the very cheap stuff).  I thought for sure I had gotten the right kind this time.  But I clearly didn't do my research well enough.  I'll have to just order some FW stuff online because going to the art store has let me down twice now.


    There is a lot of marketing going on in art materials these days, particularly with acrylic paint. The ink most people use on miniatures in recent years is what used to just be called high flow acrylic paint. The ink part is marketing and can confuse a lot of buyers. If you want what most people are using buy something with acrylic in the name. There are lots of pigment based ink that are not acrylic and there are people who use them on minis. They used to be fairly commonly used for washed, but they aren't what most people are talking about when the say they use ink today. The ink you have is pigment based rather than dye, but it uses shellac rather than acrylic resin for a binder. 


    Acrylic inks can be delicate if you airbrush them on and can rub off when using a paintbrush over them if they haven't cured sufficiently. When you do something like a zenithal prime it's best if you set them aside for a few days before brush painting on them. 

    • Like 1
  15. 17 hours ago, Pochi said:

    Did you see that hey have added some of the trees?


    Yeah, I was disappointed in the dinosaurs. To me they seem like they lack the subtlety of the originals, but maybe they will be better once they are sculpted. I do like the other trees though so I'll probably at least get those since it looks like now that the kickstarter is over you can get them separately instead of as just an add on to the main sets.

    • Like 1
  16. On 7/10/2021 at 7:51 PM, haldir said:

    Changing a X-Axis belt on a CR-6.



    Something I've been putting off for longer then I want to remember. It also something I'm going to do next week. I was curious without the tensioner on the end, is the process the same as a changing a belt on a Ender 3?


    Sadly there isn't much on the web in regards to this or at least I can't find anything.


    It's probably the same or very close. It's very straight forward, so once you start doing it you'll likely have no trouble even without looking anything up. 

    • Like 1
  17. Disappointing to see that the trees aren't part of this. The buildings are nice enough and if stls had been part of the original kickstarter they might have had me. At this point though there are so many options at better prices that I don't thing these are nice enough to justify their cost. Interesting trees like they originally showed are something that doesn't have a flooded market though, particularly the dino-trees.

    • Like 1
  18. 7 hours ago, lowlylowlycook said:

    So this is another support problem I'm having




    When I printed this guy his hull came out very nice but the legs were encased in supports carbonite style.


    Should I remove the legs to print separately?


    That one is harder to say say just from a picture. If the main problem is just getting the supports off and otherwise it's printing well I'd probably start by fiddling with the supports to find a setting that made them work.

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  19. 3 minutes ago, lowlylowlycook said:

    The only downside I see is that the wrist will probably be exposed in the final model.  Maybe I could split it into two prints cut at the wrist then glue them together.


    I guess supports are a bit of mystery to me since sometimes they pull away easily and reveal top notch detail behind them, and other times I end up damaging a model trying to even remove them.


    The wrist is just going to be a smooth flat surface though. If it doesn't end up smooth enough just sand it, adding filler if necessary.

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