cmorse
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Posts posted by cmorse
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Another factor is the paint you're putting the wash over. The more matte it is the more likely the wash will cling everywhere it touches, which can lead to tide marks and staining.
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Also haven't don't much with white glazes, but just from how the pigments behave you probably want a zinc white rather than a titanium white.
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1 hour ago, Glitterwolf said:
Does that needs to be plugged in permanently or can you unplug it for a while as well without losing data?
It looks like an HDD so as long as it didn't get damaged somehow it shouldn't lose data due to not being plugged in.
SSDs are the ones that will eventually lose data if not plugged in. How quickly they start losing data depends on the type of SSD and the temp. It it's in the 80-90s the drive could be corrupt inside a month and should be powered on weekly to avoid data loss. If they never leave an air conditioned house they should be powered on at least every 6 months.
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Krita is the main free one that is designed specifically for that purpose.
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2 hours ago, WhiteWulfe said:
It's hard to tell since Iwata hides so much of their info behind "proprietary blend", but I'm guessing that since nothing is mentioned in the SDS other than eye protection.
Now to just decide between the 6000 and 7500 half mask, and whether or not that extra $10 is worth it for someone who wears glasses (or if there's an insane difference in comfort... >.<
If it had something that required a 6001 it would show up in the sds. They can hide the exact ingredients, but they aren't allowed to hide if something requires specific safety measures. It does say "Breathing dust or mist may irritate the nose and throat." Dust and mist are both in the realm of particle filters rather than vapor filters. Another indicator is that many of the things that need a 6001 will have a picture of a flame on the bottle. You should still check the SDS, but most of the solvents used in paint that give off organic vapors are kinda flammable.
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1 hour ago, WhiteWulfe said:
Hence why the mention of the N95 pre-filters, aka 3M's 5N11 pre-filters that are held onto the 6001 cartridges with the 501 filter retainer.
2097's are tempting though because they're cheaper, aren't three parts, and are easier to breathe through, but would still provide protection when cleaning out the airbrush (as well as obviously while airbrushing). The only thing that bugs me about those is their recommended change intervals are a lot shorter.
2097s are what I use, mostly due to getting a big pack of them on sale. They aren't really full on organic vapor protection, only nuisance level. It's carbon filter's main purpose is to eliminate smells, not actually protect you. After it's thin carbon filter stops working they still function normally as a particulate filter, so you don't really need to worry about the change interval relative to other particulate filters from a safety perspective. Again though it really depends what you're actually spraying. If you need organic vapor protection they are a bad replacement for 6001s.
None of the cleaners or thinners I have actually give off organic vapors, so adding in a 6001 wouldn't add any benefit, just hassle and expense. Using a 6001 without a clear purpose can also lead to false security thinking it covers everything. For example, some people clean their airbrushes with cleaners that contain ammonia or even add those cleaners to their paint. A 6001 gives no protection from ammonia vapors. If using a 6001 with a prefilter (so many people just use 6001s with no particulate filter at all...) means assuming you're covered and not checking a specific product's sds it's a bad choice. Using the right filter for what you actually need is usually the best option since it means you've figured out what the right filter is.
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11 hours ago, WhiteWulfe said:
Good to know. I'll just err on the side of caution and get the 6001's and N95 pre-filters then, especially since some of my thinners have harsher stuff in them (like Createx 4011 Reducer).
You only get one pair of lungs, and I already get enough questions every time I'm in radiology (yay lungs that show up like a three pack a day smoker for over a decade on xrays), and the operators always look rather confused when I answer that I don't smoke..
The SDS says N95 are fine for Createx 4011. Though being safer certainly won't hurt you it also won't really help you if you aren't using something that the 6001 is meant to block. Things that don't actually turn into vapors and specifically organic vapors aren't to care about the active carbon in a 6001. If you aren't using something that gives off organic vapors, which in mini painting usually means volatile solvents, it won't actually give any extra protection.
5 hours ago, Loim said:I can't speak for paints other than Badger or Reaper, but I use the same thing for thinning that I do for cleaning, which is a mixture of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. Hope that helps.
As soon as you add something like isopropyl you are in the organic vapor category.
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6 hours ago, WhiteWulfe said:
Out of sheer curiosity, any recommendations for filters? Are the pink pancakes enough for acrylics (2091 or 2097's from 3M), or do you suggest a more thorough approach with pre-filters and 6001 organic vapour cartidges?
Any benefits to P95 (oil proof) versus N95 pre-filters with regards to using acrylics?
The pink are fine for the dust from paints like Reaper. Airbrush cleaners are more questionable so you'd have to check the SDS for the specific one you use. Any of the acrylics that contain solvents, like Tamiya, need the organic vapour cartridges. If you add solvents as a thinner to a paint like Reaper you'd need the organic vapour cartridge. In general checking the sds should tell you which type of filter to use if it's a paint that's meant to be sprayed. If it's not a paint that's meant for an airbrush you might have to dig deeper to be sure. P vs N shouldn't matter unless you're doing something like using an airbrush to spray your cast iron with canola.
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It's also worth keeping in mind that not all acrylics are the same. With some, like Reaper and (most) Vallejo, you only really need to worry about the paint particles. With others, like Tamiya, you also need to worry about the vapors.
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16 hours ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:
The put a piece of capricorn in the hot end and "lock" it in method?
If so, I was doing that until I swapped the hotend (after my old one broke). The new one came with a tube preinstalled and I was hoping it would behave for a little while, but I'm getting ready to do that tomorrow if I can find everything.
Yep, that tends to take care of most clogging issues all on it's own.
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25 minutes ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:
Huge change isn't it?
The first week after I did mine I kept forgetting it was running behind me, and then it would actually make a noise and startle me.....I *think* I finally might have my clogging issues cleared on my Ender. Hope so, I think I burnt myself 3 times.....
I'm trying this filament at 190 to see if it will behave better. I was running at 200.If you haven't done the hotend fix yet, it's the simplest and most effective way to end clogging due to bowden tube slipping, which is the main cause of clogging.
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I own mostly Reaper HD paints and don't really have any complaints about them, but if I were to choose one brand and never buy paint from any other brand Vallejo would be the easy choice. They are a full on paint company. Want to slap craft paint onto some terrain? The make it. Want multiple lines of hobby paint that are distinct in the ways they behave, they have at least 3 or 4. Want to paint minis with artist acrylic gouache, fluid acrylic, or acrylic ink , or...? Sure. Want to start with fluid acrylic and add all the different additives yourself to make a custom hobby paint? If you really wanted to you could. If you had to pick one paint line it's a much more open question, but if given the whole brand Vallejo is just that much bigger than the rest that they probably have something that will do what you want in one of their lines.
Actual advice on which brand to get, try a few. You probably want paints from more than one brand to do different things.
On 5/4/2021 at 4:29 PM, Marc said:
However, when I watch different popular mini painting channels on YouTube, I very rarely see them using Reaper paints. They almost always use (and in many cases recommend) Citadel, Vallejo Model Color, Army Painter etc.
If their channel is popular and they only use one specific brand there is an extremely high chance they don't actually buy their own paint.
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3 hours ago, haldir said:
My luck with externals is terrible. While they are older drives now, I've gotten 2 of them & both of them failed.
I think I've decided either on a Samsung SSD 2TB or possibly a WD HDD 4TB. My system is currently a OS on a SSD & data on a HDD. The price is about the same, so I may just go with the HDD.
Same price? That sounds like either an amazing price for the SSD or a terrible price for the HDD. Amazon has the 4TB WD Blue for $75, I wouldn't bother with something like a black just for storage. Samsung SSD tend to be somewhere around $200-300 for 2TB.
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2 hours ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:
The 3DPrintMill ? I think that would be overkill for me. It looks really cool but I think it would be far more useful in the cosplay/props realm. Plus I don't think I really have the room for a few feet of print hanging off the front of it.
That said, now that I've watched a couple of videos, it does look really cool......hmmm......
I think in the long run the 200x170x~ build area would be more limiting than the more standard large formats like 350x350x400. Especially since the higher quality settings seem to be more limited. There are a few things it would do better, but unless those are the majority of your planned uses it's an easy pass.
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For internal drives it's more of a cost efficiency thing at this point. SSDs are as good or better than HDDs at this point for that kind of storage, as long as you get one that's made for data storage. If you go with an external drive though HDDs are are safer. SSDs need to get powered on someone regularly to prevent the data from degrading.
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21 hours ago, warlordgarou said:
Getting very frustrated with my Ender3. The BLTouch crashed and died, and I was having problems upgrading the firmware on the board (because the firmware kept killing prints because it was looking for info from the BLTouch). Upgraded the board, new firmware, and now the nozzle jumps up almost a full centimeter from the board when it starts printing.
My first thought would be to check the start code in your slicer. Make sure you don't have it doing anything bltouch related or specific to the old board. In particular look for any G0 or G1 code that moves the Z axis.
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It's probably removable label paper. You can get it in 8.5x11 sheets and the tearing seems likely. Stencil sheets might be a better choice if you want something potentially reusable. Temporary spray adhesive on plain paper would probably also work.
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16 hours ago, SparrowMarie said:
Second, I was using the Masterson's sponges which worked fine for a while but I have issues leaving it too long without letting things dry out sometimes and it starts to smell weird (especially in the summer) so I toss it and wash out the box (haven't had to replace that, yet). That was getting expensive as the Masterson's sponges are about $6-$12USD (that I have found) for 3. I found some "Swedish dish cloths" on amazon (in this case the Jekayla brand). The ones I use are, as far as I can tell, are the same color as the Masterson's ones.
If you sponges start to smell you can wash them with vinegar, no need to throw them away unless they start breaking down. To prevent the smell from happening in the first place just zigzag some copper wire under the sponge, it will make it take much longer for any smell to develop.
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1 hour ago, lexomatic said:
Who
Do a youtube search for Evan Katelyn clear wood and you should find it.
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On 4/23/2021 at 9:25 AM, lexomatic said:
I got some HP to try with some things. No proper epoxy in hand yet.
If you want to see how it works doing it with stuff you can get at home, Evan and Katelyn did a video.
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I use a waterproof clamshell cell phone case with a sta-wet sponge and reynolds parchment paper. Then zig zags of copper wire under the sponge for mold and mildew. Usually left cracked, but it's nice that I can close it and know that it can't leak.
You should try it with a small plate/lid, paper towel, and scrap of parchment paper. It will let you know if you really want want and might also help you know what sort you want. You should already have a plate (or old lid) and paper towels. If you don't already have parchment paper a roll of it is cheap and it's good for baking cookies.
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6 hours ago, ttuckerman said:
Output:12V 5A is the spec you need to look out for. The input then should match your areas power grid.
Also important if not tracking down the original is the polarity symbol after the output voltage. It shows the center of the plug is the positive with the outside being negative. That's the more standard polarity, but you can get it the other way if not paying attention.
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On 4/8/2021 at 7:27 AM, TaleSpinner said:
Did even more reading on the KUDO3D Micro, trying to understand how they are getting such a tight resolution. It looks like they are using a high resolution projector to project the image instead of screen masked images. Given that, they are likely very limited in the plate size at those resolutions.
It's DPL which is/was pretty common in big screen tvs. It basically shines a light on to a bunch of tiny mirrors. The mirrors can either reflect the light onto a screen to make a pixel or be flipped so that the light goes elsewhere. It then uses a lens to focus the light onto whatever the screen is. That means the resolution is no longer limited by the physical size of the components, but you have to deal with light falloff and lens distortion instead.
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34 minutes ago, Maledrakh said:
I am not sure if this applied here, but please note that the voltage in the mains of US (110-120V) and EU (220-240V) are very different so you might need different specifications on your adapater depending on where you live. Using bits with the wrong specifics is both dangerous and will damage/ruin the equipment.
The pictured power brick is rated 100-240v input. Should be no problem in the US or EU.
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FDM Printer Issues
in Tips and Advice: 3-D printing
Posted
If it's always happening at the same height look for something that might be catching or binding at that height. Otherwise it's probably a partial clog caused by the bowden tube slipping or being badly cut. Print and install the hot end fix if you haven't already.