cmorse
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Posts posted by cmorse
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3 hours ago, Chaoswolf said:
So, it basically come down to quality then, right?
Sort of, at least it's fair to expect a higher quality if you pay more. On the other hand someone doing a side hustle isn't attaching costs the same way a business does so they could actually give you higher quality at a lower cost, but its a side hustle so they might charge more just because they don't care if they sell many. Or if you could have two people doing it as an actual business with both pricing fairly based on their cost, but one lives in San Francisco and the other lives in the middle of a cornfield in Iowa. At the same quality the one from San Francisco might cost significantly more simple because of the overhead cost of being in San Francisco rather than anything quality related.
So basically, look at sample pictures and reviews because, while there may be meaning behind the differences price, there is no way to know what that meaning is for any given etsy seller.
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Someone printing on the cheapest printer with the cheapest resin while filling in plate space left over from their own projects as a side hustle can charge significantly less than someone who is really trying to make a business out of it.
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Cura Arache (beta) for my CR-6 lately. Controlled under extrusion to create finer detail is an interesting idea and it does seem to kind of mostly work.
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16 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:
That rat seems a little too big to be coming from that manhole...
It's also covered with grate so anything larger than a real world rat would have trouble getting through it.
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On 3/16/2021 at 4:03 AM, ced1106 said:
Wait for them to run a second project, sell these retail, or see who else will sell a similar product.
I did search on "LED dice" sold retail and found, well, LED dice, sold retail. Not as deluxe as these, but take a look.
They are claiming everything is going to be open source and open hardware. It probably won't be too long until many options as deluxe as these start showing up in searches.
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4 hours ago, JoeGKushner said:Supports!How do you make sure you're removing all of the supports?You ever cure and prime a figure and realize you've still left supports on it?I've broken off pieces of a miniature before because they looked like supports.Now I try to make sure I've got a 'clean' picture of the model, unsupported, jpeg, and follow that and try to wait a little while before curing the model so I can go over the model again with fresh eyes.
Much like mold line and other surface defects adding a layer of grey primer is the best way to find the ones that aren't obvious. Don't view it as a problem, it's just part of the process.
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16 hours ago, ferret said:
I have on occasion used Golden High Flow Transparent colors for similar effects and they seemed to do well. However, the color range is small.
Other companies label their high flow paint as acrylic ink. From there you can check the label to see if it's rated as transparent.
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31 minutes ago, TripleH said:
How long did you let it sit?
Primer usually needs 24 hours to fully cure and adhere to the surface.
More like 3 days if you want it fully cured.
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For a fraction of the price ($20-30ish?) you can buy a cheap airbrush and pump sprayer to use as a compressor from a hardware store. You'd get better results on miniatures. That's how Plasmo started out airbrushing.
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1 hour ago, haldir said:
Which to be honest is kinda baffling, as most people I know these days, pick up singles vs pack opening (after initial box purchasing). Single sales are always in demand at my FLGS & the card shop in town.
Here's what they have to say on the subject
"We are removing MTG singles from our website for two reasons. First, board games and miniatures are more profitable. The profitability on MTG singles has gone way down over the past 24 months. Second, MTG singles is a giant labor drain. We are having a hard time hiring enough workers and when it takes an insane amount of labor to pull, pack and buy singles it just isn't worth it. I could use those employees in a much more profitable way somewhere else in the company."
I think it's noteworthy that they said 24 months. That means this isn't strictly a covid thing.
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Adding to what Inarah said, Reaper was doing it with metal castings. That means every part of the mold that wasn't desirable as a bits purchase could just get melted down and recast. In the case of plastic sprues the less desirable parts go in the trash.
A couple more examples in recent years. Asmodee no longer offers replacement parts to board games citing the labor cost of organising the parts. Miniature Market has just announced an end to sell Magic singles, again citing the labor cost of opening and sorting packs of cards.
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5 hours ago, WhiteWulfe said:
No, stuff that Games Workshop themselves sold. Like the old Space Wolves mod packs you used to be able to buy back in the day.
Forge World is Games Workshop themselves. I'm not sure what the old mod packs looked like, but I imagine what they sell through Forge World is the closest thing to a modern equivalent.
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29 minutes ago, Auberon said:
Yes, you do need to be concerned about the final topcoat. I can say from personal experience that the wrong spray will turn a Bones I mini tacky even through multiple layers of paint.
Maybe, but it's worth keeping in mind that the tacky miniatures due to spray varnish problem existed before bones and is still a thing even with metal miniatures. I think I even have a couple Reaper metal minis that are still a bit sticky after many years of me never getting around to fixing them.
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14 hours ago, WhiteWulfe said:
There's always the mod sprues idea. They have done such in the past, where it's a common theme, and has one or two sprues worth of items in there.
The Forge World stuff? I think they still do that, but it's not really the same as just selling bits. A set of arms and heads that match up to a box of plastics while costing more than the box of plastics it goes with doesn't exactly fill the need of someone wanting 2 extra arms holding a certain plasma gun.
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On 2/14/2021 at 2:27 AM, WhiteWulfe said:
Yknow, if they'd just bring back the bits catalogue that would provide people a "legit" way of acquiring such parts...
Not that I buy much if anything GW lately, and hearing about such practices tends to discourage almost as much as some of the player base (and staff at GW stores) does...
A GW bits catalog for parts off plastic sprues would never happen even if it were a company other than GW. The cost of cutting and sorting the bits would be more than the entire sprue.
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For the price of a phone lens that's worth bothering with you can probably get a manual focus macro for your Nikon or a 50mm+extension tubes that will give you better results. That being said, have you considered just using your current lens and cropping? The results will be as good as anything you can get with a phone + an add on lens.
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7 hours ago, Dan d'Lyon said:
Did anyone end up backing this? I have my resin printer now and the minis look great and the game looks like fun. I'm mostly curious about the mobile app. Sounds like it could have some nice features, but I can't find it anywhere so I'm guessing it's a private release. Any info would be very much appreciated.
I didn't back it, but I've been following it off and on. As best I understand it there is no mobile app that you can download it's a web based app that you just go to their site to use. I'm not sure if there is an actual mobile app in the future or the web app is what they meant from the start.
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If you want to do the red, yellow, blue option I'd highly recommend doubling it to have a warm and a cool version of each. A good starting place is buys some inexpensive acrylics and painting some color wheels. It wouldn't be as good of an experience as higher end single pigment paints, but it's a pretty classic place to start learning the fundamentals of color mixing.
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I think the biggest issue you'll have at that price point is quality control. The exact same brand and model might last years or days.
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3 hours ago, MojoBob said:
I would think that, if using dishwashing detergent as a flow aid in washes, that terrible hippy eco stuff would be best as it doesn't contain all the foaming agents they add to high-end brands to fool people into thinking that their expensive detergent works for longer than the cheap crappy stuff. When it comes to acting as a surfactant and breaking surface tension, detergent is detergent as far as I know.
However, I should note that this is purely theoretical: I haven't actually done any testing.
If you are using soap the amount is so small that bubbles shouldn't really be a thing. If they are you probably used too much. Really though, if you're going to do it just buy a bottle of flow aid. It's $5-10 and will last the rest of your life and you won't need to worry about whether any of the additives in the soap will react in funny ways with the paint
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On 1/20/2021 at 4:42 PM, The Steve said:
I am finding the black wash too thin and also too grey. I am trying to replace all my citadel products with reaper paints. present goal is to replace "nulin oil" and figure out what reaper mediums I need to supplant my contrast paints.
I don't think you can replace nulin oil or contrast paints with anything Reapers lines in a satisfactory way. Likewise you couldn't replace Reaper's triads with Citadel paint line.
There are options outside of Reaper though.
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39 minutes ago, Rignes said:
Yeah, that's what I kind of had in mind. Little plastic bits to dress things up. No so much flocking, grass, or pastes.
The Basecraft kits look like they may be kind of what I'm looking for. Unfortunately the Fantasy themed one is out of stock for the moment.
For random plastic basing bits you can just make push molds from minis you have. You usually only need one side that looks nice.
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3 hours ago, Valien said:
Hey all,
I only have Reaper paints for all my mini painting but got my son a model car kit for Christmas. The paints in the guide are all Testor recommended enamels. I've not painted with Testor paints since 8th grade so it's been a few...decades :D
Would Reaper paints work well for model painting? Or would they be too dull for stuff like car body/paint jobs, etc?
The main thing you wouldn't really be able to do is all the sanding that a lot of model car people do. If you weren't planning on doing lots of sanding anyway you'll probably be fine with acrylics.
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4 hours ago, Carnacki the Ghost Finder said:
Got my answer from the Dark Moderator: No. Needs to ship now.
Which I'd recommend doing even if they said yes. Their inventory system is not something that would withstand people having anything on hold for that long. You'd likely never received any items left on hold.
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Mold on Minis?? - Advice Wanted
in Tips & Advice: Painting
Posted
I've had some Bones with just Reaper paint on them end up with a layer of fine white mold. No idea why and it was just a couple of them.