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cmorse

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by cmorse

  1. First test prints. The cat failed because I turned it off halfway through and left in overnight. It did successfully resume, but got knocked loose after about an 1/8". This was expected since the bed was cool for hours before the resume. Some stringing on the mini, but it was just using cura defaults.
  2. Daler-Rowney and Liquitex are good if you want to use them in an air brush, I think the little hobby bottles are a waste of money for airbrushing. If you're using a brush the smaller bottles the hobby companies sell are fine. Ideally I'd say get a few bottles of different brands to see which you like better, but the convenience of just buying a set is nice too.
  3. Mine arrived today with no tracking notice. No puff of smoke when I turned it on, so that's good so far. It does appear that it was tested at the factory to some level as the nozzle has some black filament in it and my roll is white. Mine was listed as shipping in the Aug 20th batch, but according to the tracking number the label was printed on July 31 with US tracking starting on the Aug 27th from Newegg.
  4. Inks or inks? Inks are dyes suspended in some sort of medium, like Reaper inks. Inks (acrylic) are just high flow acrylic paint with a high pigment density.
  5. I've watched a few painting videos where they've suggested doing that for figuring out large army color schemes. They mostly just did blocky flat coloring though, so any photo program that does layers would be good enough. Any light source/shadow manipulation was just blocking the colors with gradients instead of a solid color. Nothing fancy, just getting a feel for the colors before base coating things a dozen at a time. You shouldn't need to pay anything for a program that will do this. Krita (free open source) is probably a good one to look at if Gimp seems too much. How useful it is would be 100% subjective. I've never done it and I can't imagine doing outside of an army or very high end project planning. Light manipulation? That's a tall order. Good in program light manipulation would mean working in 3d. You don't get shadows unless something is there to cast the shadows. A common way to do light source test though is photographing a mini with a light shining on it in a way you like to use as a reference. You could bring that idea into the software. Setup your camera on a tripod and tack the mini down so it doesn't move. They take a selection of photo with a variety of light angles and intensities. Stack those into layers in your program. Do your colors on their own colorize layers. Then you could switch between your photos to see different lighting with your colors as well as adjust each color separately since it has it's own layer. You could go even further by copying pieces of your lighting photos to overlay on others to create any variety of combination of lighting. Probably not worth it, but maybe for competition painting or if you really have trouble visualizing lighting and color? It would probably be a great project for learning a photo program though.
  6. If anyone's gotten their printer yet, be careful. A number of them have caught on fire. CREALITY Dear Customers: For those of you who have recently purchased the Creality CR-6 SE, thank you. For most of you, the experience has been a good one, for some, due to mistakes that are entirely the responsibility of Creality3D it has been unpleasant- and you have our profound apologies. This is not how we normally do business. In fact, it has always been how we set ourselves apart from our competitors. Now, all we can hope is that those customers who have been affected give us a chance to distinguish ourselves in how we address this problem. We have recently received information about a fault in a small number of CR-6 SE 3D printers. The fault is well documented and in no way the result of user error or incorrect use. Those two possibilities having been eliminated, our engineering department is now in the process of determining if it is a design flaw, or quality control issue. We appreciate your patience and within 5 days intend to have an answer as to what the problem is, a plan to resolve the problem, and a policy to prevent anything like this from happening again. During that time, we prefer to be overly-cautious and request that customers not leave their CR-6 SE unattended while printing. We will provide detailed information as soon as we have it, but if you have a defective unit please contact [email protected] so we can begin the resolution process. Again, please accept our sincere apologies for the inconvenience, and thank you for giving Creality3D the chance to make this right.
  7. I've heard Rustoleum Universal Dead Flat might actually be rebranded Dullcoat.
  8. The humidity is likely a big difference, dry is not a word I'd use for the air here in the summer. Do you use the cap for your airbrush cup? That can also make a big difference when your using a lot of paint/primer at once, probably even more so in a dry climate. With the cap on there is typically very little if anything dried inside the cup. I also tend to shoot a bit of water and cleaner through before refilling.
  9. Out of curiosity what issue did you have with cleaning your airbrush? I've never noticed Stynylrez to be anymore difficult to clean than plain paint.
  10. I think it's more like people are used to big things being out of scale due to hand sculpting and metal costs. That storm giant maths out to pretty close to exactly 26' scaled. With a digital sculpt Wizkids could very well have sized it after the sculpt was done to make sure the scale matched the number in the book that closely.
  11. uBlock Origin. I haven't seen an ad on youtube in years.
  12. I'd also vote Stynylrez. Vallejo works fine on minis for the most part, but if you think you might want to sand after priming something, like a model kit or GW vehicles, it's not your friend.
  13. What's the mini made out of? If it's metal get a smaller drill bit and use something other than a paperclip. If it's polystyrene or other plastic that works with plastic cement glue some thin plasticard to the top layer of cork and attach it to that. If it's PVC just shove a needle into it's foot for a pin. If it's resin... good luck.
  14. It's included. That's probably the main complaint people have about it, "it's taking the place of something that could have been better". Though I think it makes sense from CMON's perspective. It's niche enough that if it were a paid add-on it's hard to say if it would actually pay for itself. Now that they've shown the whole set I think the cupid's were a bad choice even though I prefer them to the unicorns. If they were going to go with 80s cartoon nostalgia for the other two why not large headed blue gnomes or something instead of cupid?
  15. Currently there are 14 heroes included in the pledge with no optional, there are two more gender swaps likely to come. MD1 ended with 15 included, but 6 more paid addons. This one has more types of mobs, but fewer wandering monsters. There is also a drop in duplicate mobs, no more 16 of the same sculpt this time. I think the total mini count is going to be down a bit, but with the bosses the plastic weight is likely going to be higher by the end of it.
  16. I keep reminding myself that their customer support for retail purchases in the US is through Asmodee now and I shouldn't support companies who treat their retail customers that badly. If you can't buy things post kickstarter with confidence in the company it definitely cools the desire to support the company on kickstarter.
  17. Those look like they are just rebranded silicone tipped sculpting tools. They come in a variety of firmnesses. I occasionally dot eyes with a pointy one. $11 for a set of 5 is way more than they should cost. I think my (non-Ammo branded) set of 10 , 5 tips in 2 firmnesses was $6.
  18. So it's now sounding like there may have been some communication errors (not really shocking when dealing with translations) regarding shipping and they didn't switch everything to sea freight, so people who paid for air shipping are still actually getting it. Some people are reporting printers delivered in the US which seems to confirm it. If the correction is right then I take back what I said about shipping early not being much to talk about.
  19. To add to this, ideally you want to do the same thing between the primer coat and painting. Letting the primer cure before painting would eliminate another potential reason for the the chipping.
  20. Which I think is fine since they managed to start shipping early and they are on track to deliver roughly when I was expecting them to. It's a fairly neutral change though, not something to be talked up at all. The shipping charges for the kickstarter were already higher rates than what they are currently charging for air delivery from China in their store. They launched in May so they knew what shipping prices were doing and the prices they charged specific to shipping seem to account for the increases in global shipping prices and then some, least that's what their own webstore indicates.
  21. A lot of the people are picking ridiculous things to complain about. In fairness though, while people should be getting things around when I was originally expecting, changing to ship a month early by boat instead of shipping on time by air isn't really something to brag about.
  22. Yeah, either the regulator or the pump is faulty and 10 psi is the maximum it can maintain in use. Either you're probably at the point where either customer service or returning it are your best options.
  23. Have you checked for any leaks with soapy water yet? That's a good starting place for any air pressure problems.
  24. So in theory these have now started shipping, but it's a bit confusing what that actually means.
  25. https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/ It looks like Krylon white primer is listed as both getting tacky and not bonding. Probably not a stretch that the grey might also have issues bonding even if it didn't get tacky on you.
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