cmorse
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Posts posted by cmorse
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4 hours ago, Zink said:
I think going forward I'll weigh the rolls when I open them. Then I can reweigh them later and have a rough idea how much is left. Of course the way I am with notes I'll probably forget or lose it.
Just write it on the side of the roll. That way when you lose it it won't matter anymore.
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8 hours ago, aku-chan said:
Just the 1.6 card pack.
The last thing I had on my maybe list was the game board, but thanks to one of the recent updates, I know I don't want it anymore (the little stone faces not matching up across the gird lines would drive me loopy).
It wasn't the price doubling that did it?
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7 hours ago, Zink said:
I'm using Cura which doesn't show the price but does give me the weight. Simple enough to figure out the price from there.
All you need to do is go into your filament settings and enter the price. After that it will also give you a cost estimate.
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Set your price based on how often you want him to ask for the same favor.
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7 hours ago, pmcnix said:
Lot of good advices from everyone, thanks. I think I'm good to go for all my Reaper minis.
Last question, I have a couple 2" large Wizkids preprimed miniature with the underside of the figure that's supposed to be flat but it's REALLY uneven. It comes with a slim 2" disc so can't pin anything here and I don't have yet a thick enough glue/gel/putty to fill all those gaps. I tried with Craft Glue and it was a mess. What about using a belt sander to fix the figure, get a flat underside and then use CA glue ? Otherwise I need to order some new thicker bases for pinning and embedding.
You could also try flattening the base using hot water, the same way you would for a bent weapon or arm.
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I picked up a variety pack of 18 makeup brushes off amazon for $12. You should also be able to find them cheap at walmart or target or really any place other than a specialty shop. If for some reason those aren't options you can probably get a set shipped directly from china even cheaper through ebay or ali.
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18 hours ago, jadeite said:
Epic Miniatures started previewing next month. I'm not overly fond of this one as I'll only be able to use one of it. I had a similar problem with some Cast'n'play releases. I think the "release the same model in different poses"-approach works better with monsters than with humanoids.
Given what Epic's recent releases have looked like I'd hazard that the multiple poses isn't going to mean there are two fewer other things, just that there are that many more models included.
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2 hours ago, Cranky Dog said:
I was thinking the same thing.
Capillary effects like to ignore the laws of gravity and do their own thing. Pointed up or down won't make much of a difference with the brush sizes we tend to use.
This is the sort of thing I'm sure some has actually tested and done a youtube video about since it get argued often enough. Anyone have a link?
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21 minutes ago, Clearman said:
To @Serenity point, using the Masters Brush Soap after every use is probably overkill, but it doesn't really hurt either.
Also keep in mind the Kolinsky Sable brushes are real hair, so using a little conditioner will help keep them soft and pliable. I generally use Masters soap once every week or two, and then use Pink Soap in between as Pink Soap also has a conditioner as an ingredient.
That's what you'd think until you take a brush that you were using red paint with and you got as clean as you could without soap, then run it across the soap and wipe it on a paper towel. The amount of red that comes out for the clean brush is surprising.
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I'd suggest dusting before rinsing. I have a big fluffy makeup brush I use for it.
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11 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:
One is a welcome pack, which will grow, and they always throw in another pack.
I already have everything so, for me it's only the newer additions to the welcome pack and the Monthly Set from now on, but given the amount of minis and all it's great value.
And I like that the terrain/ ship and such huge things come in parts so they can be printed on a Resin printer as well.
They also make a file for FDM for those.
The collection of files is growing and maybe even getting out of hand.
I really need to paint more and I'm already thinking about an extra external hard drive.
In theory I have so much that I will never get to paint it all, so I could stop buying, but then there is a new awesome design and I just want it as well.
First World Problem for sure..
Just double checked. From this month on it's two throwback sets every month. It's was their hitting 500 patreon thing.
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1 hour ago, TheAuldGrump said:
Epic is easily, easily the best value for dollar.
And this month they had two Throwback sets. (One was an early set, so rather small - so the bulked it up with another older set.)
Plus, I rather like the very traditional style they use.
I think my next kids game will be an Arctic Survival style game, beginning with a shipwreck - and a mysteriously missing crew.
I will give the PCs a list of what they can loot from the ship, and a limit on what they can carry - a backpack each, and one dog sled. Ship, sled, and most of the encounters are from last month's Epic Patreon.
The first encounter will be bugbears - looking at the PCs and their dogs as food - not just because they are evil, because they are starving.
The Auld Grump - there are strange things done,
'Neath the midnight sun,
By the men that moil for gold.
The arctic trails
Have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold.....
As I understood it the two throwback sets per month is going to be their standard going forward, not something to just bulk up old sets.
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This is Vallejo's Old Silver Violet on the egg. Doesn't show it the greatest, but it gives the feel of it.
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Remember to make sure you clean you airbrush really well after using Shifters. I just sprayed some gloss varnish over black and while there was no metallic bits left these was a slight iridescence. The brush had been washed a several times. The amount of iridescence was small enough that it hasn't shown on anything else until now, but the gloss over black made it visible. Fortunately I was putting the gloss on the black for more shifters...
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Probably the most important thing to do is write down what you're scaling something to in case you need to reprint part of it.
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3 hours ago, Maledrakh said:
The creality cannot handle larger files. I have a couple of wardroid files that are more than 200k, and the creality refuses to open them. argh. Anybody know how Cura handles larger files?
The largest file I have is 420mb both cura and the creality slicer version open it and slice it without any trouble.
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9 hours ago, Cygnwulf said:
a year ago I'd of said you were correct but right now there are probably also a lot of people selling them to free up room for a Saturn or Mono X upgrade.
There were a lot of people this spring/summer buying any printer they could get their hands because of the articles about printing face shields and masks. I'd imagine quite a few of those ones will end up selling with little use.
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On 9/25/2020 at 12:27 PM, Jasper_the_2nd said:
I've never looked at the Creality Slicer. Been using Cura since day one with my Ender 3. Is it new?
Creality Slicer is just an older version of Cura that comes with printer profiles made by Creality. It lacks the latest features in exchange for already being mostly bug fixed.
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On 10/21/2020 at 4:01 PM, NecroMancer said:
Ouch! After looking at the prices for these they are a little out of my price range... guess I'll have to save up for a bit... if I can just stay away from those elfing Kickstarters it might not take too long
You can probably buy a used or refurbished i7 for under $500 pretty easily.
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5 hours ago, Rignes said:
This is a relatively recent topic for me too. Here is my understanding of it (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
There are two types of inks. There are dye inks and pigment inks. Dye inks get their color from dyes that are dissolved into a liquid. The other type is pigment based which uses pigments suspended in a medium like regular paints. The dye ones will reactivate, the acrylic ones shouldn't.
Think of Acrylic Inks like super highly pigmented very thin acrylic paint. I'm not sure if that's actually what they are but it works in my mind. Liquitex Acrylics Ink and Daler Rowley FW inks do not reactivate in my brief experiments. I regularly use white FW ink through my airbrush to zenithal highlight and I've never once had a reactivation issue.
To be safe, I let it sit overnight after application to allow it to fully cure before proceeding.
Pigment based inks are a pretty broad category. Aside from the acrylic type people here are interested in here they might use shellac, gelatin, or a variety of other binders. In some cases they use no binder at all or the pigment itself is the binder. There are also iron gall inks that works through a chemical reaction.
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Really the ink people use for things like zenithal highlights shouldn't be called ink. It's high flow acrylic paint that was rebranded ink by marketing departments. There are a few brands calling it ink at this point though so no going back. Like others mentioned just make sure if you're wanting to get artist ink for minis that it's acrylic ink.
The ZZKOKO ink you bought is for fountain pens and there is no way to get it to behave the way you want it to. It's dye based instead of pigment based and doesn't have any strong binders in it. You could let it dry for years and it would still react to water. If you want something to do with it you could use it a with a paint brush similarly to how water color paint works. Getting a cheap fountain pen for it could also be fun. Keep in mind the ink would still bleed or even wash out if the paper got wet, so it's no good for things like writing checks.
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The slicer on the sd card doesn't work right, but there is a new version on creality's website that seems to work fine. Otherwise the facebook group has profiles for the updated Cura and Prusa.
My fun continues. I got hit with a US Customs bill for a not small amount due to the paperwork having the wrong value on it... Creality told me to pay it and they'll reimburse me, so I'm awaiting their reply to the receipt I forwarded. Sent it on Friday, so hopefully hear back tomorrow or Tuesday.
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My first thought is that it's little bits of dry paint on you brush coming off.
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Just to make sure it was clear since I can't tell from your reply. Mixing white and zinc white are the same thing in most brands of acrylic. On the occasions when mixing white isn't just zinc white you'll find that it's just a blend of zinc white with some titanium white. There might be a brand that labels something else as mixing white, but for your purposes I'd just ignore that possibility. I think my bottle is either Golden or Utrecht. I still can't find and was thinking I should try it some more since you reminded me I have it. You can probably also get it from Vallejo in their fluid acrylic.
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3D printing tips for beginners
in Tips and Advice: 3-D printing
Posted
According to the system requirements page the minimum you need is a Pentium 4 with 4gb of ram. Those were discontinues over a decade ago. So even an i3 should run it. It would just be a question of how slow can you tolerate.