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cmorse

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by cmorse

  1. On 10/21/2020 at 4:01 PM, NecroMancer said:

     

    Ouch!  After looking at the prices for these they are a little out of my price range... guess I'll have to save up for a bit... if I can just stay away from those elfing Kickstarters it might not take too long 

     

    You can probably buy a used or refurbished i7 for under $500 pretty easily. 

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  2. 5 hours ago, Rignes said:

    This is a relatively recent topic for me too.  Here is my understanding of it (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

     

    There are two types of inks.  There are dye inks and pigment inks.  Dye inks get their color from dyes that are dissolved into a liquid.  The other type is pigment based which uses pigments suspended in a medium like regular paints.  The dye ones will reactivate, the acrylic ones shouldn't.  

     

    Think of Acrylic Inks like super highly pigmented very thin acrylic paint.  I'm not sure if that's actually what they are but it works in my mind.  Liquitex Acrylics Ink and Daler Rowley FW inks do not reactivate in my brief experiments.  I regularly use white FW ink through my airbrush to zenithal highlight and I've never once had a reactivation issue. 

     

    To be safe, I let it sit overnight after application to allow it to fully cure before proceeding.

     

    Pigment based inks are a pretty broad category. Aside from the acrylic type people here are interested in here they might use shellac, gelatin, or a variety of other binders. In some cases they use no binder at all or the pigment itself is the binder. There are also iron gall inks that works through a chemical reaction.

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  3. Really the ink people use for things like zenithal highlights shouldn't be called ink. It's high flow acrylic paint that was rebranded ink by marketing departments. There are a few brands calling it ink at this point though so no going back. Like others mentioned just make sure if you're wanting to get artist ink for minis that it's acrylic ink. 

     

    The ZZKOKO ink you bought is for fountain pens and there is no way to get it to behave the way you want it to. It's dye based instead of pigment based and doesn't have any strong binders in it. You could let it dry for years and it would still react to water. If you want something to do with it you could use it a with a paint brush similarly to how water color paint works. Getting a cheap fountain pen for it could also be fun. Keep in mind the ink would still bleed or even wash out if the paper got wet, so it's no good for things like writing checks.

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  4. The slicer on the sd card doesn't work right, but there is a new version on creality's website that seems to work fine. Otherwise the facebook group has profiles for the updated Cura and Prusa.

     

     

    My fun continues. I got hit with a US Customs bill for a not small amount due to the paperwork having the wrong value on it... Creality told me to pay it and they'll reimburse me, so I'm awaiting their reply to the receipt I forwarded. Sent it on Friday, so hopefully hear back tomorrow or Tuesday.

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  5. Just to make sure it was clear since I can't tell from your reply. Mixing white and zinc white are the same thing in most brands of acrylic. On the occasions when mixing white isn't just zinc white you'll find that it's just a blend of zinc white with some titanium white. There might be a brand that labels something else as mixing white, but for your purposes I'd just ignore that possibility. I think my bottle is either Golden or Utrecht. I still can't find and was thinking I should try it some more since you reminded me I have it. You can probably also get it from Vallejo in their fluid acrylic.

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  6. 3 hours ago, Highlander said:


    Anybody use acrylic mixing white to change the saturation of a color?  I mean tube acrylic paint that you'd have to thin/mix/condition to use with a mini paint. 

     

    If you have, what have the results been?

     

    Any specific reason the question is focused on tube paint, it's just zinc oxide white? I have a bottle of fluid zinc oxide around somewhere that I've used with mini paints. I never used in a lot and have no idea where it is at the moment, but as I recall it did what it was supposed to. Zinc oxide is much more transparent than titanium oxide. That makes it ideal if you want to lighten a color with white, but without making the color more opaque than it is. I'd say it's ideal if you wanted to lighten a color for glazing. If you wanted to try it out there is really no reason to buy it in a tube all you'd be doing is making extra work for yourself, just get it as a fluid acrylic

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  7. 2 hours ago, Knight of the Dinner Table said:

    I really don't want to be a spoilsport ... but ...

     

    Solomon Kane: Estimated delivery: July 2019 - not yet finished production yet

    Reichbusters: Estimated delivery:  November 2019 - seems like the Errata pack and other things have just been shipped, main game already in the hands of the backers (I think it shipped in late spring this year)

    Time of Legends 1.5: Estimated delivery: October 2020 - but held up IIRC by legal disputes, they are doing "development updates", sounds to me like not even the rules for al factions are finished.

    Enchanters: Easy Quest: Estimated delivery: September 2020 - they have been sent "validation copies" (I gather these are copies they have to accept - concerning quality and components - before mass production can start?)

    Steam Watchers: Estimated delivery: March 2021

    Hel: Estimated delivery: June 2021

    Fantasy Brawl: Estimated delivery: Estimated delivery March 2020 - they are now predicting that shipping will be finished by end of October 2020.

     

    I have no problems with delays, but having THAT many unfinished projects and starting a new one again (especially after legal disputes and rumors of monetary problems ... RUMORS! So there might be absolutely nothing to it), it's a light red flag for me.

     

     

    At least they aren't in the middle of a lawsuit over Time of Legends anymore?

     

    In regards to validation copies and mass production it varies a lot from company to company. Any given component could have already been signed off on and already fully manufactured or everything could be final samples waiting on approval for everything at once. Anyone's guess what Mythic is doing though.

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  8. 3 hours ago, Mckenna35 said:

    They're  1.5" across the flat, so that's the smallest dimension.  While it may be possible for someone to swallow one it seems pretty unlikely. 

     

     

    I would guess the concern involves the possibility of the magnets falling out of the tiles and being swallowed rather than the tiles themselves being swallowed.

  9. 20 hours ago, strawhat said:

    I'm not sure if I'm going to go in on this or not.  Bones V is the focus of much of my hobby spending right now.

     

    But TWO, $200K "stretch goals" add two miniatures (each)?!  That's not just dirty pool, Hasbro: it's broccoliy pool.  If the game needs those minis, they should be included in the box.  Otherwise leave 'em out.  Not to mention that $200K for 8¢ of plastic (made up number) per box is ridonkulous padding on your part unless you're planning on selling a couple million copies of the game.:grr:

     

    Now, maybe they are using the padding on those goals to fund other goals (but want to keep the goals $200K apart), but it still smells like three-week-old sardines.

     

    Looks like without the stretch goal the box comes with the correct number of goblins so the stretch goals aren't needed. As far as the 200k increment, that's not out of line with other kickstarters for add another mini sculpt when they are injection molded. Particularly with 37 days left. There is a limit to what will be added no matter how high the funding goes, from a marketing perspective it's generally a bad thing to hit that limit too soon.

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  10. 16 hours ago, NecroMancer said:

    Yeah I only spray acrylics so I'm not too worried about it

     

    Just be careful about the "only acrylics" thing. Being labeled acrylic does not guarantee anything. You don't want to be spraying Tamiya acrylics unless you're venting it outside for example. 

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  11. 4 minutes ago, Harrek said:

    So anything that the booth fan pulls out that it’s filter does not catch just goes out the back at the wall?

     

    That's how mine's set up. It's fine if you only use paints where just particulate is the concern. There is going to be more acrylic dust in the air from what the fan doesn't suck up than there will be from what the filter misses. That's why you need to wear a respirator even if you're venting it outside. If you're using paint with toxic vapor it's a different story, that should alway be vented out of the room, if you can't you shouldn't spray it.

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  12. I'd probably go with 1/4". Check the plywood carefully if you're getting it at a home improvement store. Finding a piece that isn't more warped than the terrain might be a challenge. You might have better luck finding a flat piece of 1/4" mdf. If you do find something flat make sure to seal both sides so that it stays that way.

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  13. 3 hours ago, Spodi said:

     

    Wait... did you print that on the CR-6?! If that is from a FDM printer and not resin, then consider my mind thoroughly blown.

     

    It's hard to tell for certain from the picture, but with the size of an umber hulk I think those results shouldn't be a problem on FDM. There is a lot of detail to be found or lost in orienting .08mm layers at the right angle.

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  14. Isopropyl with something non absorbent like a toothbrush is mostly going to just move stuff around rather than get it off the model. You're lifting the grease and oils, but not actually removing them so when the alcohol dries they just settle back on the mini. Soap and water works because once you lift the oils you then rise them away with more water.

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  15. Here's what how the prints look with some paint thrown on to bring out the details. The only clean up I did was zapping them with a heat gun. Certainly not high grade, but better than I was expecting for default setting and the .4mm nozzle.

    P1010224.jpg

    P1010225.jpg

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  16. First test prints. The cat failed because I turned it off halfway through and left in overnight. It did successfully resume, but got knocked loose after about an 1/8". This was expected since the bed was cool for hours before the resume. Some stringing on the mini, but it was just using cura defaults.

    3dprint test.jpg

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  17. Daler-Rowney and Liquitex are good if you want to use them in an air brush, I think the little hobby bottles are a waste of money for airbrushing. If you're using a brush the smaller bottles the hobby companies sell are fine. Ideally I'd say get a few bottles of different brands to see which you like better, but the convenience of just buying a set is nice too.

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  18. Mine arrived today with no tracking notice. No puff of smoke when I turned it on, so that's good so far. It does appear that it was tested at the factory to some level as the nozzle has some black filament in it and my roll is white.

     

    Mine was listed as shipping in the Aug 20th batch, but according to the tracking number the label was printed on July 31 with US tracking starting on the Aug 27th from Newegg.

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