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Slendertroll

Bones Supporter
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Posts posted by Slendertroll

  1. My third and final bust (for now) from Heroes & Villains Miniatures. This one is "Jacobite Highlander: Culloden Moor, 1746." The big challenge here is, of course, going to be the tartans. From my research, it looks like pretty much every piece of the outfit could be a different plaid, but I'm not sure yet if I'm going to leave the shirt and/or jacket a solid color for my own sanity. This is definitely going to be the most extensive freehand I've ever attempted. He also has a few accessories that I haven't attached yet, and even came with another, much angrier and beardier head. I probably would have gone with that one except that I just did a bearded bust and I want to try clean-shaven.

     

    post-8362-0-28227700-1452041515_thumb.jpgpost-8362-0-18917100-1452041517_thumb.jpgpost-8362-0-39023200-1452041519_thumb.jpgpost-8362-0-79636100-1452041520_thumb.jpgpost-8362-0-98286700-1452041522_thumb.jpg

     

    (That last photo was taken with my new phone camera macro lens!)

     

    I've collected a few inspiration pics that show how just how much plaid can go into these outfits.

     

     

    The_Battle_of_Culloden.jpgCulloden%20L_tcm4-566111.jpgc26a9ea2b739a13635d629e125044cf1.jpg

     

    Plus one of the studio paintjobs:

    HIS001-JO-01-450x600.jpg

     

    • Like 13
  2. One major point of the year long contests is to have you paint something you normally wouldn't like dragons, giants or large scale general. The time frame gives people plenty of time to paint that large scale model or find the nerve to do it. Bring in normal 28mm range and its no different than the other contests throughout the year.

    I agree completely. There are plenty of contests out there (even if there haven't been so many on these forums this past year) for 28/32mm figures, so I don't think there's any need to include them, with the possible exception of large groups, in the year-long contest. I'm not totally opposed to a squad category, but I'm not sure I want it to just be a category for the wargaming armies people are already making.

    • Like 4
  3. The problem with that is that Reaper produces so few minis in a large scale, that second category is unlikely to get many entries, or if they do, I expect to see a bunch of the same mini. I honestly think this year's categories worked out pretty well, though I can understand if people want to mix it up. I'm kind of ambivalent on the squad category, but I think combining it with dioramas makes sense if it is used.

    • Like 5
  4. Normally I'd tell you not to bother with primer, since Bones don't need it. (Instead, a basecoat of Brown Liner works wonders.) Since you've already primed it though, I'd say just go ahead and grab a bottle of Brush-On Primer. (I like Reaper's, but I imagine there are equivalent products out there from other companies.) A layer of two of that should solve that problem.

     

    And just to make sure, you are washing the minis before priming, right? Otherwise mold release agent can cause problems.

    • Like 3
  5. I've never used Game Color, but I do know that the general advice for people having this kind of trouble is to use a coat of RMS Brown Liner (or Blue or Gray Liners) as a pseudo-primer coat, as it seems to stick better to the Bones material than any other paint. Then other paints stick to it just fine. So I'd grab a bottle of that and see if putting a basecoat of Liner down first doesn't help.

    • Like 3
  6. I got a new W&NS7 #1, since I'm beginning to fear for the longevity of my other one, which I use for probably 98% of my painting. I also got a Micro Phone Lens (brand name), which is a tiny macro lens designed to stick to the lens of a regular cell phone camera and acts as a 4x zoom. I use my phone for photographing all my minis, and I'm hoping it'll help me take nice close-up shots.

    • Like 5
  7. I find pure water is fine, and have never needed other additives for basic layering. 50/50 is too much for most applications; I usually use maybe 1 drop of water for every three equally-sized drops of paint. When I do washes, I just thin with water until I get the consistency I need, but I'll often add a drop or two of RMS Brush-On Sealer, which I find helps it settle into cracks better.

    • Like 3
  8. Washing with soap and water and then re-priming will be fine. It'll probably take some of the current paint and primer off, especially since it's already coming off so easily. Other bits may stick. Both of those are fine, since anything that survives a toothbrush scrubbing is stuck on perfectly well, anything that comes off will just give you a fresh surface to prime, and you'll have a nice, clean, oil-free surface to start over on either way.

    • Like 3
  9. Your biggest problem was almost certainly handling them. Your fingers deposit oils on everything they touch, so handling your minis before painting will make it harder for water-based acrylics to stick to them. In addition, touching them before sealing will always run the risk of rubbing the paint off with simple friction, so make sure not to touch them during or after painting. Get something to attach the mini to during painting, so you don't have to hold the figure itself. You can use pretty much anything, from dice boxes to wine corks to plastic soda bottle caps, depending on the size and weight of the figure in question.

     

    There's also the possibility that that primer is no good (I haven't heard of that brand) but I'd try just not touching the minis until they're sealed and see if that helps first.

    • Like 2
  10. I really like the hair shine, the red in the face showing how cold he is, and the tiny detail of the arm hairs.

    Thanks, the hair and skin were definitely the things I was proudest of. (The face isn't quite as red as it shows in some of the pictures though; I think that first photo is the most accurate, color-wise. I don't know why the straight-on shot of the face turned out so pink.)

    • Like 2
  11.  

    Deathsleet doesn't like to stay standing. he bends at the ankles and falls forward. I'd recommend going with a different dragon unless you're ok with pinning his legs deeply and perhaps even attaching his tail to the base.

    Hmm. Ebonwrath is the only other one in stock that she does not have in that price range. I would love to get her Cinder but he has been out for a bit.

     

    If Ebonwrath is better I will switch them around.

     

    I believe simply gluing down Deathsleet's tail so she's anchored in three places has been known to fix that problem. Ebonwrath doesn't have that problem at all, but it's not such a big deal that you should avoid buying Deathsleet if you like her better.

    • Like 5
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