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Wren last won the day on December 2 2019

Wren had the most liked content!

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About Wren

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  • Birthday 07/13/1967

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    Knoxville, TN (formerly Toronto, Canada)

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  1. I don't think colour theory is a read it once, grasp it all kind of subject. It took me years of taking classes and studying a few different things before I was fully conversant with most of the terms and concepts. (Granted in those years there weren't really resources like YouTube and as much as there is now online.) There are a few I'm still wrapping my head around, and actually applying theory to practice is definitely an on going process! Understanding and using colour is also the sort of subject that you'll keep circling back to and develop a deeper understanding for things over time.
  2. Or at least a minor fall. ;-> My latest blog post is a collection of tips for how to make your paint jobs as sturdy and durable as possible. It starts long before you apply sealer! https://birdwithabrush.com/2020/10/18/how-to-paint-miniatures-that-survive-the-apocalypse-or-at-least-a-minor-fall/ Don't let this happen to your figures!
  3. If you're using GW paints, you're using paint in paint pots not dropper bottles, right? Paint pots have some nice features, but it is possible for paint to dry around the rim and opening and that dried paint to flake up and fall into the main body of the paint. Not saying that is what is happening for sure, just that it's a possibility. If you were using just water you could be having a problem with the pigment falling out of suspension, but you're using medium, so that shouldn't be happening. Do you have a bottle of paint you haven't used very much or a new one, or something in a dropper bottle? You could use that to test if you still have the same problem and see if there are still flecks. It's not 100% of a test, since issues could be related to specific colours, but it's something to compare. Trying painting your thin glazes over white ceramic or plastic to see if you can see the flecks so you can test without having to paint on a miniature. Are you using the same paints as in the tutorial? I know they have thicker dry brush paints and a few other kinds of paint that might not thin down well to glaze consistency. That's probably not what's happening, but figured I'd double check. You can also look at your mixing environment and see if there are any potential problems there. If you are mixing on top of a plastic plate with dried paint on it or something like that, you could be agitating flakes of the dried paint into your mixes when you stir. Or if you have a wet palette and you use the same palette paper for a long time and you live somewhere dusty, you could get debris in your paint that way that looks like flecks. Very occasionally I've heard of people having problems with fibres in paper towels or other things like that. Are you always using the same brush? If so, test with another. I had a brush that seemed to have debris in it once, though sounds like you're getting enough of this that it's not likely the brush. Again, I am not saying any of these things are for sure a problem, but they're things to investigate. One time when I was having issues with my painting it was due to stuff like this, nothing to do with the paint. So for a quick thorough test you could try using different paints and your same gear, and then the same paints and different gear and see if you still get the same problems in one or the other situation.
  4. Mixing anything with a paint will desaturate it to some extent or another. A single pigment intense colour is as saturated as it can be. Mixing anything in makes it less so. White lightens and desaturates, black darkens and desaturates, grey desaturates and may lighten or darken depending on the value of the original colour. Adding in the complement desaturates, but often in a more visually pleasing way than with the pure neutrals. It usually also darkens. Titanium white is a pushy, strong colour. A strong colour has a more marked effect in mixes and you tend to need less of it. If you have clear blue or the phthalocyanine blues, those are examples of strong colours. You need a bunch of yellow (typically a weak mixing colour) and a dab of one of those blues to mix up a green. Mixing or zinc white is a little more transparent, so it's easier to work with in mixes. It's still going to desaturate and lighten whatever you mix it into, but in a less aggressive way that may be easier to manipulate. Unless you want thick tube paint to build up physical texture for highlights (which is definitely a technique), I'd probably get Liquitex soft body or some other more fluid mix of zinc white to mix with miniature paints. In general it's best to use paints made as close to the consistency you need than to thin them down, especially with water. Water thinning alters both the opacity and the strength of the paint film since there are fewer of the acrylic molecules in the paint in heavily thinned paint. Is there something specific you're trying to test? I have some Liquitex soft body mixing white and lots of Reaper paints. I don't have time to test dozens of paints, but I could do mixes of a couple if that would help you figure out what you're trying to figure out.
  5. Ah, that's definitely an issue!
  6. Would it be easier to just repaint the rest to match what you paint on the new head? Trying a glaze of that colour over the rest would be a quicker thing to attempt that might work well enough. (I'd mix that with brush-on sealer or matte medium so you get the same kind of adhesion as you would with a full strength paint though.)
  7. Based on my experience of the past couple of years, I recommend it as a step for every mini. Including non-Bones, but especially including Bones. A quick dip in isopropyl is the most consistently reliable method I have yet to remove grease and gunk from figures. I no longer bother with soap and water scrubbing unless I've got reason to think something's sticking on the figures. Soap and water scrub helps with the Bones hydrophobia, the alcohol is even better. I keep a little Tupperware of it and some tongs for dipping. Werkrobotwerk - have you checked pharmacies in your area lately? In the first few months it was off the shelves of mine, but recently I've seen it again. And some on Amazon as well. In the meantime just the soap and water will help. Scrub a little with a toothbrush if you can. It hasn't been posted to YouTube yet, but you can watch my stuff that works on Bones video from ReaperCon 2020 on the Twitch channel currently. The prep snakes weren't completely cooperative in showing how effective the alcohol rinse can be. (There is some variation in the plastic mix so occasionally you get a Bones that's more hydrophobic.) The Zoom version of the class I did in a previous session that was not recorded, of course the prep figures worked exactly as I expected. ;-> https://www.twitch.tv/videos/733392832?filter=archives&sort=time
  8. My latest blog post is an overview of the terms we use to define and understand colour, with (hopefully) helpful diagrams like these. https://birdwithabrush.com/2020/09/24/the-anatomy-of-colour/
  9. Not exactly the same, but I have used this same colour mix in my OSL classes on figures with magical green flames, and the advice people are giving about making the light source of the flames much lighter is excellent advice. It's maybe going to seem a little counter-intuitive, but I think it'll help if your skull and bones parts are actually a bit darker and definitely duller in saturation than your flame parts. (or at least the hearts of the flames including white as people mentioned.) You might find it easier to paint them with your bone colour and then glaze the green over. Since the bone colour is fairly neutral that should work without surprises. (And is how I did the fur on this guy. In my OSL classes I don't give them the colour until they've worked on painting the reflected light as if it were a white light source for a while.)
  10. Thanks for letting people know about this, that is really sweet of you!
  11. That was in Procreate on an iPad Pro with an Apple Pencil stylus. Procreate does not require the pencil stylus and has a Pocket version for iPhone. I described the process a bit in the post just above the photo. I have used GIMP for editing photos instead of Photoshop for years now, both on my old PC and now on my Mac. I've never tried to do something like this with it, but I suspect it'd be pretty similar just with mouse instead of a stylus. Certainly you can choose colours and different brushes with GIMP. Every now and then if I get a few pieces of dust on a base when I take mini photos I will edit them out rather than taking all the photos again. Other than that I just balance levels to get the colour right and crop stuff. Prior to this I used the low tech methods I mentioned and just used paint on paper or a quickie test mini. Bones are a boon on that front. Used to be I'd have to find a mini that was kind of similar, file it, prime it, and by then I'm invested and either don't want to goof it up or I can't just joke around with it. Now I just have to find a Bones that has some similar elements and slap enough paint on it to feel like I know whether my idea works or not.
  12. I was never brave enough to use tools like that even on metal mins. :->
  13. It occurred to me maybe I could attach a file since I happen to have done some colour tests like this recently and had a pic ready to hand. I was working on my miniature for my character in the Reaper Errant Twitch show.
  14. I hope to write a blog post on this some time soon. Short version. Old school tech - take your actual paint colours and paint them out on paper. Heavier drawing paper (70lb) or something like index cards will work better than printer paper. You don't need to be able to draw even roughly. Just put blobs of each colour in roughly the places and proportions you'd use those colours on the figure. You can also experiment with testing shadow and HL colours by doing quick on the paper mixes and seeing what the gradations look like. On iPad the Procreate program is terrific. It's $10, but you get a lot of features for that and there are a ton of videos on how to use it online. You can grab a picture of the white off of Reaper's store site and copy that in. Set that layer to be on the top and reduce the opacity to 30% or so. In a layer below that experiment with your colours by colouring over the sections. You'll get a little of a shadow and HL effect from the white. However, your colours will be muted down because of the semi-transparent picture on top. You can hide that layer to see the full strength colours. Or you can even paint in shadows and highlights if you want the full effect. There's a Procreate phone version as well. Looks like you can do something similar in an iPad program called SketchClub, which I don't think is free but might be cheaper than Procreate. Paper is another possibility, not sure if that does require having a stylus though. I know I had a simple little program to do this on the iPhone that I think was free, but I don't seem to be finding it. I think it was Color Effects but that is not cooperating with me at the moment. My guess is that on both Android and Apple stores you would find something along these lines. You need something where you can import photos and then any program that is about drawing or colouring should let you do the colouring in part on top of that.
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