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Wren last won the day on December 15 2016

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About Wren

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  • Birthday 07/13/1967

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    Knoxville, TN (formerly Toronto, Canada)

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  1. The nice thing about colour theory is that the basics are freely available. The first link below is a blog post where I linked to a video and then a text site with an overview of the basics of colour theory. https://birdwithabrush.com/2019/02/05/colour-link-ups-january-28/ There's a second video that follows up the one above. The nice thing about both these videos is that the presenter is playing around with actual paint, not just going over the theory. (Particularly in the second one, which gets more into actual mixing.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nxKupcpO3rc Then there's a third one where she talks more about colour schemes and the psychology of colours, but that may or may not be of interest to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBb9dfNOUxA You may also want to look for some information on CYMK or cyan, yellow, magenta colour mixing. The ones I've linked are the traditional red, blue, yellow primary approach. And the schism between the two sort of explains why it's colour theory. What works in theory can be different in practice when dealing with the vagaries of actual pigments instead of theoretical red/blue/whatever. Don't get frustrated or intimidated if it seems like too much at first! Read a little and try to absorb what you can, and then come back to it another time. It took me years to really get the fundamental terms and concepts of colour theory down. Now I've been known to correct or expand on info from teachers in art classes on the subject. ;-> However, it is still going to take me more years before all that brain knowledge filters down into the practice of my painting work. But understanding/trying just a little bit of information can still be very helpful! This is definitely NOT a topic where you need to understand every term and element to start making use of information. For instance on your original question of shadow colours. A dark blue (Reaper's Blue Liner is handy for this but not the only answer by any means) often works better than black for mixing a shade colour. It will generally work better with blue, purple, red, and green than black would, and it works with brown and other colours you can darken with black. Likewise yellow or yellow mixed with a little white works better for making lighter versions of yellow, red, and green. Knowing complementary colours is a good foundational piece of knowledge. These can also be used to darken or tone down their complements. So some purple in the shadow colours of yellow can work really well. Or if your green paint is too bright green for orc skin, try adding a touch of red. On a colour wheel, complements are directly opposite one another. red <-> green, yellow <-> purple, blue <-> orange. Do tests on a palette or a piece of paper if you're worried about messing up a figure. You can take a colour and mix in a bit of a darker colour to see how it works as a shade, for example.
  2. Wren

    Madame Delia 3978

    Thank you everyone for the kind comments!
  3. Wren

    Madame Delia 3978

    Hm... I am bad about tracking very precisely. Partly that is because I'm too slow of a painter and don't like to think about that constantly. ;-> I have gotten a little faster over the years, but typically I progress by the results improving but the time investment staying pretty much the same. I think the first mini I ever fully painted took like 8-10 hours. I'd guess around 10-15 for this, probably 12. The dark cloth effect is interesting in that it's something I find easy, even relaxing to do, but it's not quick. There's no short cut for hundreds of tiny dots or lines. ;-> A figure with a lot of NMM or fiddly detail would take me a bit longer. Average mini I paint is 12 - 20 hours for just the paint (including paint on the base, which hasn't happened for this yet.) That doesn't include prep time, base construction work, or other stuff like that.
  4. To add further confusion... what kind of inks? There are traditional inks that are often made with shellac and I dunno what all else, but many products sold these days are 'acrylic inks'. FW inks, Liquitex inks, I think there are a few other big brands as well. I don't know for sure (will try to remember to ask Anne but my memory is very sad), but it's possible that Reaper inks are in fact acrylic inks and wouldn't surprise me if the same were true for Vallejo. So what is acrylic ink in comparison to traditional ink? Acrylic paint, pretty much. Liquitex ink is just a formulation that uses a more liquid/thinner binder mix. Golden has a similar product but they call it High Flow acrylic paint instead of ink. Acrylic paints can be made with binders that give them anything from a thick paste consistency, to a super runny consistency, but they're all made with plastic binders and pigments. One of the ways that acrylic inks are not like traditional inks is that they have pigment particles and often should not be used in pens* as they'll likely cause clogging. How this is relevant is that these products are basically just a different consistency of acrylic paint, so you can use them in the same ways as acrylic paints, and they should intermix with acrylic paint products no problem. FW and Liquitex even list the pigments they use. I _think_ that Winsor & Newton ink is still a more traditional ink. 15 years ago when I started painting and people talked about using inks for particular effects or washes or whatever, most of the time I think they were talking about traditional inks. They are typically shiny, and may not behave the same as paint. (And if made with dyes instead of pigments, may not be as lightfast as products made with pigments.) I recall threads of people being concerned that inks they had used were reactivating or seeping up through upper layers with subsequent applications of paint. I also saw plenty of threads from people that liked them, so I'm not trying to put anyone off using ink. Just mentioning so that if you're reading articles or watching videos or whatever, the specific type of ink product someone is using may be relevant if trying to duplicate or understand their results. *I mean they could clog pens like fountain pens. These super thin paints are designed for fill it yourself markers/brush pens and dip pens and things like that I think.
  5. Wren

    Madame Delia 3978

    Madame Delia is available in metal as of this week, and is part of the Core Set in the Bones 5 Kickstarter, so I thought people might enjoy taking a look at my take on her. I talk about my thoughts on painting the cloth and colour scheme choices a bit on my blog. I do plan to give her a base, just figured I'd work on getting some paint on some other Kickstarter stuff and then circle back around to that. https://birdwithabrush.com/2019/10/17/madame-delia/
  6. Wren

    Mass mini prep ideas

    I figured there must be some sort of chemistry behind it. Happily for me I don't bleach stuff so I don't worry about it much. Though presumably it is also an issue in cleaners with bleach in?
  7. Wren

    Mass mini prep ideas

    I have not been super scientific about it. A few times just an empty blister and one figure, but I also filled up a Tupperware style container to soak figures more en masse for a P&T or to prep for classes. Generally I soak for 5-10 minutes to a few hours, depending on if I get distracted by other things or I'm trying to get that task finished quickly. I don't know that I'd want to leave them for ages for fear of if it would tamper with the plasticizer. I used the same Tupperware of alcohol for at a guess a few hundred minis, and by the end of that it had a fair bit of lint and debris and was sort of gross so I pitched it and will start another next time I need to prep. I suspect the alcohol itself would work fine*, it had just reached the point of the debris getting caught on the newer minis and being generally yuck. In case it's relevant, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol. I asked the people in my classes to let me know if they felt the paint was going on better, and it seemed like most did. *Though I have noticed there is a best before date on alcohol, and it seems much earlier than I would expect. Not sure if this is just completely made up by the companies, or if there is some basis to alcohol not lasting very long. Was also shocked to see how short the BB dates on bleach are.
  8. Wren

    Mass mini prep ideas

    I have been soaking/dipping Bones and other figure materials in isopropyl alcohol lately and quite liking the results. I think it makes them even more ready to paint than a soap and water scrub. If I have had to handle minis I've already washed and worry that I've gotten hand oils on them (after assembly and gap filling, say), I often use a bit of alcohol on a Q-tip to wipe over the area.
  9. Wren

    Paint Shelf Life

    My Reaper Pro Paints with the twist on lids had a lower survival rate than my first run MSPs in the dropper bottles. They also suffered from chunks that would get in the paint from taking the caps off. I need to go through my P3s and see what state they're in...
  10. I'm old and childless, and not a brush licker. I ordered away for real cadmium paints. ;-> (Which really do have remarkable coverage and vibrancy.)
  11. Wren

    Paint Shelf Life

    Storage temperature also matters. Freezing or near freezing temps are bad for acrylic paint. Getting grainy or clumpy is a symptom of excess cold exposure. Not that I'm saying this is the issue with your paints, just that the temperature of the shelf affects the shelf life. ;-> Anne has said that she has reference bottles from the first runs of MSP colours that are still viable due to being shaken and having water added as necessary. I had a similar experience with my first run paints. I left them untended for several years and some became unusable, but most of them fared surprisingly well and with a little water added and some mixing, I was able to pass them on to a friend. I've also been carefully tending backup bottles of out of print colours. That said, I tend to prefer the consistency and behaviour of not super old and/or well-tended paint, and will replace favourite colours on occasion even if I haven't used every last drop.
  12. Wren

    ReaperCon 2019 pictures!

    Alas, I can take no credit for this fine figure. Unfortunately I am also not coming up with a solid lead for who else it might be. Thanks for all the pictures everyone! This was one of my didn't really have time/brain to take many pictures years, so I enjoyed everyone else's. May see if I can upload the ones I did manage to take, though it's a bit late now I guess! (I got hit with the crud this year, only getting back into being able to do much in a day.)
  13. Given what the website says about the Liquitex sealer, I would try one of their mediums instead. The mediums may have indicators for several characteristics on the label, including how thick to thin the product is. (Golden does this, can't remember if Liquitex does. My art store folks believe Golden is the superior brand, but I suspect it's not a huge difference either way.) You might compare the labels of the matte medium and the glaze medium. I don't know if they have a medium for their 'acrylic gouache'. That would probably be the ideal option since that line is essentially Liquitex reinventing miniature paint so far as I can tell.
  14. Wren

    Solid White

    I believe Solid White is one of the colours that will be folded into the Bones HD line, but the exact timeline for that is unknown. So you'll be able to get it one day, but until then I agree that Dragon White is probably what you want. Pure White is a little softer of a white.
  15. I shared some general explanations of mediums in another recent thread (that the title of might not have seemed obviously connected to your question). https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/87838-thoughts-on-flow-improver-extender-and-reaper-wash-medium/ Short answer - likely both are acrylic medium (the clear part of acrylic paint) with matting agent added. From the description on the Liquitex page, it's possible their product contains other elements and may actually be more different than I initially thought. It mentions being a UV protectant, and I'm not aware that Reaper Brush-on Sealer has any properties to that effect. It also says NOT to shake or overly agitate the product in use, nor to thin it with water. You can and perhaps should do both of those things with the Reaper sealer. (Definitely shake, like a lot, every use. Otherwise the matting agent can concentrate in the last 1/3 of the bottle and you risk getting a frost effect.) Liquitex products vary in viscosity, so whether it's the right thinness to be used on miniatures could be a concern. Other than that I don't see why it wouldn't work, it mentions being flexible.