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Wren

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Wren last won the day on December 2 2019

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About Wren

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  • Birthday 07/13/1967

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    Female
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    Knoxville, TN (formerly Toronto, Canada)

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  1. It's out much later than I hoped because of the cold snap and deadlines, but I have put up an unboxing video that includes a look at assembled items and scans of the paint swatches. Unboxing RVE swag If you're super into paint I also have a video of me painting out all the swatches for those colours. Half of that was done on a Twitch stream where I also answered some questions and shared general paint info. Swatching RVE paints
  2. Is your goal to match Reaper acrylic paints to the colours of Bob Ross oil paints? That's going to be a challenge for a couple of different reasons. One is that neither company makes public pigment information. That's not unusual for miniature paints. It is less usual for quality artist oil paints. Or even student grade oil paints. At this stage in time the Bob Ross company is less selling general painting lessons and more selling painting via our system lessons, so they're motivated to get you to want to use their paint, and not motivated to help you figure out how to use something else even though you're just taking one class to see if you like it. I watched a demo of the Bob Ross system at my local art store back in the before COVID days. They had a full workshop, but I didn't sign up for that. As with the paintings he did on the show, it's all based on putting a coat of white oil paint over the canvas before you start the painting. This stays wet throughout the entire painting, and that is what allows for many of the specific techniques that Bob uses. I think that paint is called Liquid White, so it's not even a standard white oil paint. Probably just has some medium or solvent or something in it, but I don't know exactly what. I am pretty sure that adding drying retarder to acrylic paint will not function in the same way, either for that base white layer or the paints in general. Drying retarder can keep your miniature paint 'open' (workable) on your surface for 5-10 minutes, not the length of a painting. Dry times on more fluid paints like miniature paint or paints which are applied in thinner layers are faster than thick tube paints applied in thicker applications. The acrylic brand Golden Open paints are going to be the ones that function most like oil paints. They have been formulated with drying retarder and other properties to stay workable for a long time. But they'd be as expensive or more as buying a Bob Ross set. (And I really do mean just the paints specifically called Golden Open, Golden's other brands of acrylic paint dry quickly like other acrylics.) Basically I think you will find it frustrating and very challenging to try to do what they're doing in the class in the same way they're doing it. If you do try it, I recommend that you scale your canvas down from the larger size. You can also try to work in sections. It's possible to 'float' a layer of drying retarder over an area of a painting and wet blend on top of that, but the layer probably won't stay wet as long as oil paint would. I am normally pretty reluctant to recommend buying super cheap paint, but I think you'd get closer to what the class is using with a set of cheap Reeves or Talens oil paint from the craft store or Amazon than in trying to make acrylic paint act like oil paint. Note that per ounce, miniature paints probably aren't that much cheaper than artist paints. You're just buying smaller containers, so you can get a lot more colours for less money. (And obviously using something you already own is cheaper than buying something new.) Depending on the pigments used, a 2oz jar of Golden's new SoFlat Matte (that sounds a lot like they reinvented miniature paint) is $10-25. A Reaper bottle is 1/2 oz for $3.70. Multiply that by four, and the Golden prices aren't crazy. (Which is the other reason I suggest using a smaller canvas if you take the class with Reaper paints so you use a smaller volume of them.) It sounds like you're less interested in a Bob Ross class specifically than in the general idea of doing a fun online art class? If that is the case, you should be able to find something that uses acrylics that you could use your Reaper paints with more easily. You'd particularly want something with fluid acrylics or acrylic gouache (acryl-gouache is another name). Those will be most similar to Reaper paints, where a general class might be expecting you to have thick tube acrylics that you can do different effects with. Craftsy is an online course site where you can buy individual courses, though these are all prerecorded. Udemy is another site with prerecorded courses like that. Skillshare and Domestika are monthly subscription sites that have tons of prerecorded art classes. It's not quite the same vibe as a live class, but figured I'd put that out there. I'm sure there are live classes with acrylic painting, I'm just not aware of some to recommend. Another option is to look for a class that looks fun that requires less of an investment of supplies to get started. Something that needs a simple watercolour set or set of watercolour pencils for example. As far as just the part about matching colours. I couldn't find any pigment info for Bob Ross paints on Dick Blick's website, and they are pretty thorough about listing that info if they have it. What they also do is post pictures of actual painted swatches, which is very helpful to getting an idea of the colour. So you can look at the colours listed for the class (or in the kit) and compare them to the paints you own to see what looks like it matches the best. Click on the little colour swatch on this page that lists the paint and you'll see a bigger version of the swatch. Apologies for the super long post!
  3. When I rinse out a drybrush and want to use it again before it has dried naturally, I don't just dab it on a paper towel. I fold over some paper towel and press the brush head between it with my fingers. I just keep moving to dry spots on the paper towel and pressing between my fingers until the paper towel stays dry when I pinch. You should be able to see/feel whether or not there's moisture on the towel pretty easily. Those big fluffy makeup brushes will definitely take a few presses to get dry! I don't stress if just a little bit of colour is coming off on the towel when I do the finger presses. It's the nature of thick brushes and flat brushes, and if it's just a little faint colour it shouldn't affect the next thing you paint. I do clean them thoroughly with brush cleaner at the end of the session, and then I do the thing of pressing the brush between the paper towel specifically to check if I got all the paint out.
  4. I have an updated answer to the differences in the Reaper blacks and whites in a newer thread that I'll link here: https://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/93865-white-colors-whats-the-difference/&tab=comments#comment-1985096
  5. I suspect this is highly unlikely to occur, for a few different reasons. Most of those are manufacturing. Reaper makes their paint in house, but the equipment and set up to make bottled paint vs canned spray primer is totally different. Given that spray paint is under pressure and uses chemicals, there's probably a whole other set of safety issues and whatnot as well as equipment. It would be a very limited product range going into market that has lots of options. There's a lot more strikes against it than for it happening. They could get an out of house factory to make something that they label. That's what happens with their paint brushes. They also briefly sold Reaper branded superglue made out of house. Which due to differing regulations for those kinds of chemical products turned into a whole hassle to ship internationally, and they decided it was not a good market for them. I don't know for sure, but I suspect spray primers would be subject to those kinds of regulations rather than the bottle paint ones. So would be difficult to sell internationally, further decreasing the appeal for Reaper to jump into this market. (I believe you can now only get Testors Dullcote in the US cause Testors didn't want to deal with the issues of getting it into Europe. And that's an established brand that deals with those kinds of products and shipping issues regularly, not a new to that market company like Reaper.) The last issue is that I don't know if such a beast exists. The issue with spray primers is the propellant, and the issue is exacerbated by various climatic conditions. So you can't just test it in Texas and call it good. That's no different than the dozens of posts in this thread with one person saying "I used primer X, worked great" and another saying "I used primer X, it's still sticky". The second person probably sprayed in wetter, or warmer or some other different climatic condition than the first. Are there propellants that aren't subject to this issue? I have no idea. But researching, developing, and testing for one is far out of Reaper's area of expertise and business model. There IS a spray alternative - anything you can use with a brush shot through an airbrush. Reaper even sells those now. There are also super cheap options that are like $20 and you can buy canned air to use with them rather than an expensive compressor. I get why people don't love the answer, I hesitated for many years to use an airbrush. But I think it's as close to Reaper offering a spray primer option as we're going to get.
  6. I am planning to swatch the other sets, but my order didn't make it out before the weather swooped down and walloped Texas.
  7. I guess he hadn't made it back to town to repair and resupply when this photo was taken. ;->
  8. I had a 'swatch party' on Twitch a few days ago. Here's a scan of the dried paint colours. The set of 12 is the set of commemorative paints included in the Hobby Box. The Plasma colours are the blister pack included in the Expo Box. My scanner is pretty close to true colour (of course your mileage may vary due to differences in monitors), but I think the Plasma colours are a little more vivid than they look in the swatch. I've got the fast packs on the way and will have another swatch party on my birdwithabrush. Twitch channel. I imagine that I will also scan the new swatches. I will endeavour to remember to come post those here, but will almost certainly remember to put them up on my Facebook artist page. From what was said on last night's Reaper Live, remaining box sets and Fast Palette boxes will go up for sale after they've finished fulfilling the swag boxes, and possibly individual paints. There was some discussion of whether these paints go on sale again later, but then people weren't sure and Ron wasn't able to take part to double check with him, so I'm not 100% clear on the status of that.
  9. A couple of years ago I wrote a how to paint guide for a Reaper figure, Baran Blacktree. I had more tips than fit in the guide. So I wrote an 'extended edition' blog post with some more info on the non-metallic metal and weathering. https://birdwithabrush.com/2021/02/07/how-to-paint-baran-blacktree-extended-edition/ There are several paint guides by other artists for Dungeon Dwellers figures and a fun RPG adventure on the Dungeon Dwellers craft page to check out if you haven't seen them already.
  10. I don't see another that exactly matches. I got a pretty close match mixing 9063 Ghost White and 9038 Rainy Grey together roughly half and half. Reaper sells empty dropper bottles (or you might be able to find some at your craft store), so if you like that mix you could mix up a couple of bottles of your own?
  11. I've added another blog post. This one has tips on painting red, the colour recipes I used on the red clothing on the goblin, why it's useful to use reference photos now and then, and some info on how to create focus on a miniature. https://birdwithabrush.com/2020/12/07/a-focus-on-scarlet-study/
  12. I've cut them in pieces to use to shore up a base that's a little too short when it put it on another base or am building it up some other way. I've cut strips as glue applicators. Useful when you have a foot or something come up off the base and you just need to slide a little glue under. They're basically clear plasticard/styrene, so they do have uses!
  13. The five whites listed in the top post are all true whites without other pigments added. Differences in brief: Dragon White 09439 Slightly brighter than Pure White. If you're looking for a top highlight white, use this. This brightness is due to other components than the pigment according to Anne. (I suspect it's just a little glossier which will make it reflect light a little more, which will make it appear brighter, but that part is conjecture, and there could be more than one factor at play.) Solid White 09478 Uses a different base than the other whites. So same titanium white pigment, it's the other parts of the mix that are different. Has higher coverage, but doesn't thin down for layering as well as Pure White. Pure White 09039 The highest amount of white pigment in any of the whites. Thins down well. Anne recommends this one if you want/can have only one, and it's one of her favourite paints out of all of the ones she created for Reaper. Pearl White 09100 This is a pearlescent paint, a white metallic. You can make your own metallic paints of whatever colour you want by mixing a paint or ink in with this. Unicorn White 89547 Similar to Pure White, but a little softer, so you may find it a bit easier to make mixes with. (True artist paint mixing whites are generally not titanium white or not only titanium white, but this is as close as Reaper gets I think.) Part of the reason you get so many whites is that there are separate paint lines. A store might want to order just the Bones paints or just the Pathfinder paints and stock those, so each line has to have a white and a black. Anne always tries to do something with the mix so no paint is identical to another, but there's only so much you can do with white. Up until a few years ago there was another paint line called HD. It was similar to Bones in formulation but different branding. The most popular of those paints were folded into the Bones paint line and the rest were discontinued. Those popular colours included Solid White. There are stronger differences in the various blacks because there are more ways to make black. Solid Black is a warm chromatic black. Chromatic means it has a little bit of colour in it. (Or it's mixed from colours rather than using a traditional black pigment.) It's hard to see with the naked eye, but Solid Black has got some brown and blue in it. I find it much easier to blend with than Pure Black. Dragon Black is a chromatic black with some blue and violet, so great if you like cold shadows. True white paints are generally either titanium white pigment, or zinc pigment. Zinc is weaker and a popular mixing white in artist paints. I don't think it's used in miniature paint mixing. Lead white is definitely not used in miniature paint mixing, and is pretty rare even in artist paints these days. Then you can have differences in the finish (glossy, satin, matte), or the ratio of pigment, or other elements related to the paints in general but not the whiteness so much. The colours ttuckerman added are NOT true whites that only have titanium white pigment. They are all identifiably very light versions of colours. Many of us use them as 'near whites', and you may find that it is easier to mix colours with these than with the straight whites, but if you're trying to paint a true bright white, you need an actually white paint. There are at least one or two more more of these off-whites than ttuckerman listed. Ghost White is a bluish white compared to Snowdrift being a bluish-violet white.
  14. I've got a post with a 'map' to what all the details are. It can be challenging to tell when you're just looking at the metal or even once it's primed. Julie is a wizard! https://birdwithabrush.com/2020/11/30/non-metallic-gold-and-painting-patience/
  15. I added it to the post, but I thought I'd add it as a separate comment, too. I now have a blog post up about painting the Christmas Hugs dragon. It includes info on the paints I used for the NMM gold, comparison to other NMM gold recipes, and some thoughts on the patience it takes to try techniques like NMM and OSL. https://birdwithabrush.com/2020/11/30/non-metallic-gold-and-painting-patience/
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