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klyons99

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by klyons99

  1. klyons99

    [Open/Group] WIP L2PK2

    Moving on after The Harlequin Incident ™, and following in Last Knight's fine footsteps, this WIP is from the Learn To Paint Kit 2 - Basic Skin and Cloth. I'd finished the monk (Tsuko?) and tried Laurana here, but was very, very unhappy with how she'd turned out. So, I stripped her and decided to give her another go. Hopefully there are a few more people out there working on this kit willing to post some WIP pics/stories as well! To start off, we have the primed mini. Already deviating from the kit, she's been primed with Krylon white spray primer, as I've gotten pretty grainy results using the Reaper Brush-On Primer that came with the kit. I'm positive it's me, not anything wrong with the primer.
  2. klyons99

    Open/Community L2PK #2

    Howdy folks, yet another new painter here, starting up an open/community Show Off thread for the Learn To Paint Kit #2. My hope is that we can get various folks to post their results and/or stories from working through the second Learn to Paint Kit. For those folks working on the kit currently, please feel free to post your works in progress in the ongoing thread: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/46157-wip-l2pk2/ Otherwise, please feel free to post your versions of Tsuko and Laurana in this thread. To start things off, this is my 7th ever mini, Laurana the Sorceress. Overall, I'd rate it a good learning experience. I found the skin sections to be a bit tricky, mostly because I'm not used to trying to suggest where muscles are and aren't. The cloth was a bit simpler, and very good practice for shading and highlighting. Also a first attempt at basing, and still learning the whole photography thing, so excuse the picture and base quality. Any comments and/or criticisms are more than welcome, always looking for suggestions on what/how to improve!
  3. klyons99

    Trystan's Assorted WIPs

    Since I had already painted the whole area with shadow grey previously, I just tried to keep my brush away from the edges when I came back with the lighter color. I was successful, for the most part. Some of the edges still need a little cleaning, but I want to finish getting all the base colors down before I touch things up. Thanks, much appreciated! Looking great, really matches the box there, not to mention a great job with the face and hair.
  4. klyons99

    WIP Dancer Girl

    I'm not sure you'll be able to really pin that enough to make a difference, the points of contact look small enough that I'd worry about accidentally drilling all the way through. But that's just me. Not sure how well it would work, but you might be able to glue the mini to a weight of some sort (washer, rock, etc.), then hollow out the top of the barrel to hide it. Might take a little Milliput to disguise things.
  5. klyons99

    Trystan's Assorted WIPs

    Excellent job on the skin tones there, love the face on this one. Out of curiosity, how did you approach all those little lines on the armor, like the rectangle there on the right leg in the bottom picture?
  6. klyons99

    my D&D group*

    Now we need to get you a D&D group... Outstanding work!
  7. klyons99

    WIP Dancer Girl

    Welcome aboard and great to have you posting. You picked the right place, there's a great community of very friendly and helpful folks here. Can't wait to see where this is going.
  8. klyons99

    [Open/Group] WIP L2PK2

    Heh, my wet blending looks like I sneezed too hard at the wrong moment. Let's hear it for Whatever Works!
  9. klyons99

    [Open/Group] WIP L2PK2

    One of the really nice things about this hobby is that there isn't a "right" way to do anything, there's just whatever works for you. There's plenty of different methods for doing whatever you want to do, so if you hate the guide from the kit, you can ignore it and still get the results you're looking for.
  10. klyons99

    Clothespin Battleships with my 3y/o

    Coolest. Clothespins. EVER. I'm so going to steal borrow this idea for a project with my son when he's older. Can't wait to see more!
  11. klyons99

    Maglok's workbench

    Yeah, the whole demon thing is pretty cliche. Mostly, it just fit nicely into the whole theme with Chelliax (or however you spell it), and let hint at some of the stuff coming down the road. I like the venom-themed idea much better. Can't wait to see how the cultists turn out!
  12. klyons99

    Thopas the Gnome from Lesser Gnome RPG

    Despite the brilliant Stonehaven Gnomes KS, there's still a distinct lack of gnomes out there. Glad to see more being added to the mix.
  13. klyons99

    Orc Archer - ink/highlights for bow?

    Hopefully one of our resident Great And Wise Art Gurus will chime in here, but I believe that the big difference is that inks have a smaller pigment size and much higher pigment content than paints do. Both inks and paints can be mixed into a wash, using straight water or any of a number of additive mixes that you can find, without a problem. Inks tend to be more saturated versions of a colour, and they seem (to me at least) to settle into the cracks a bit better, but that could well just be perspective.
  14. klyons99

    Dibblers workbench.

    I'm afraid Maglok's right, be careful. It's easy to get hooked. The molds straight from Hirst's site aren't that bad price wise (though shipping to Norway might be...), and plaster can be found pretty cheaply at most any hardware store. Casting them yourself is so simple that even I was able to do it, so anyone can get it done. I picked up molds 204 and 250 to do a basic dungeon setup for some friends who wanted to try playing D&D, and next thing I knew, I'd built a 3D version of the entire dungeon from the first 4E D&D adventure, complete with walls about 1" high. Took about a ton of Elmers glue, a quarter of a bucket of plaster, two full tubes of craft paint, and about two weeks, mind you. And I won't lie, the first parts I did looked pretty bad, since I was learning as I went. Still, it was easy to make the materials, and learn how to build a pretty wide range of dungeons with just two of the molds. Given the range they have available, there's quite a lot more you could do. It becomes pretty habit forming and very fun. Fortunately, both my friends and I had children, so we gave up that group. Otherwise, I'd still be casting...
  15. klyons99

    Cassu's many WIPs

    Aaaand consider that idea stolen...er...borrowed
  16. klyons99

    carrion crown pc's

    Not only had the guts to try freehand, but to post it too, nice! I actually kinda like it. Certainly a step up from anything I could do I think there's definitely something to that, especially since Reaper has the officially licensed minis for one of the bigger pen and paper RPG systems (Pathfinder, by Paizo). I know Paizo's support of Reaper is what drew myself and several of my friends to the Reaper Kickstarter, which drew us into the mini painting hobby. I'd wager it's also, in part, why you'll see a lot more of a focus on doing great tabletop minis here, as opposed to the display oriented minis that a lot of the other communities tend to focus on.
  17. klyons99

    Maglok's workbench

    Really liking those cultists, they'll be great on the table! This is for the cult of the god of secrecy (Norgorber, or some such), if I recall correctly? He's got Charm, Death, Evil, Knowledge, and Trickery as domains, focus on Greed, Secrets, Poison, and Murder. So any range of undead animals (undead dogs?) could fit. Some airborne foes like bats might also be fun, they tend to fit into the scheme. With Poison in there, any number of spiders should fit pretty well, too. I went with a more demon-oriented theme for these guys, playing up the stereotype, but I like your idea better. As for armored cultists, here are some suggestions from the Reaper store for plate wearers. A straight cleric or two might round things out nicely as well.
  18. klyons99

    Orc Archer - ink/highlights for bow?

    So far, so good! Like what you've got going on there. A wash would certainly work. You'll likely find that you'll have to go back and touch up with your base coat, since it'll end up tinting the whole thing a bit, but it'll definitely work. From that point, you could either drybrush a lighter colour on top to really make the details pop, or layer in some highlights. I'd bet you could also get away with doing a second, darker base coat and drybrushing or layering up a set of highlights from there. Or painting down into the more recessed areas, if you've got a steady hand.
  19. klyons99

    Bombshell Babes Delzira

    Bah, everyone's brush control looks sloppy from that close, even the pros. Don't let the pics fool you, this is looking great! I especially like the purple tint to the hooves and horns, it goes so nicely with the gold.
  20. klyons99

    Arbor Day Contest

    Aaaaand I just got back from buying a car, so I'm not going to be able to get an entry done in time. Kudos to those who did, and it'll be a tough call!
  21. klyons99

    Trystan's Bombshell Babes

    Saw the WIP posts on this on CoolMini, great to see the end result! The freehand is wonderful, and great use of colour. Everything is tied together so nicely, top notch work.
  22. klyons99

    03563: Tinley as The Summer Lady

    Splendid work, and a very fun WIP to follow as well. This turned out fantastic, and you definitely get bonus points for the Dresden reference.
  23. klyons99

    Wood Elf Dragon

    I've been playing around with the stuff recently, and it can be a royal pain to keep it contained. But it gets to be so addictive... After a number of exceedingly messy (and a few less messy) "incidents", I've found that it seems to work best to build yourself a little mold out of a light plastic, tape that together, then use something like wood glue to seal everything. Once everything is set, then you can go back and peel off the glue, undo the tape, and you're done. Takes a fair amount of prep, put it does seem to work. One thing to note, most of the realistic water products out there don't work well at depths beyond about half an inch, they tend to get cloudy, lots of air bubbles, etc. You can usually get around this by pouring multiple thin layers and waiting about 24 hours between layers. Or using a two-part, clear silicon resin instead.
  24. klyons99

    Going Old School WIP (Time Travel to 1993)

    Lopsided you say....
  25. klyons99

    Dibblers workbench.

    A bit of yellow will liven that green right up, make it a bit more vibrant, especially something like Sun Yellow. And I'd still recommend against a wash, with as uncontrolled as those tend to be, I'd wager you'd end up tinting most of the staff and throwing your colours all off. Not to say you couldn't just go back and correct, just that it might be a bit of a pain. An alternative would be to just coat over the whole thing a brighter green, then work up the darker colours on the outside, same way that Bugsy did his. Nothing wrong with adding another coat on there, if it's thinned, it won't obscure anything. And if you're happy with the halfling,then call 'em done! Means more time for other minis
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