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GentleGiant

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Everything posted by GentleGiant

  1. How does this happen to a Time Lord???? Ninja goat, that's how.
  2. Mr. Goodchild, looks like you might be up!
  3. "Münster, DE" "Hovås, SE" I hope the brave postal workers in Germany and Sweden can decipher those.
  4. Indeed. It speaks to how fast they should be able to go through the ROW orders once they get the glitch fixed. So the delay should be minimal. Go go glitch-fixing! Order #822 Shipping Wave 1
  5. Got mine yesterday (or it could have been the day before that, didn't get a chance to check my mailbox on Tuesday)! Almost in Westeros too ( = Denmark). Haven't done any inventory yet, apart from picking out the 5 minis someone on a Danish painting forum asked me to order for him. I hope everything is there (i.e. one of everything) as I can imagine shipping missing pieces all the way over here isn't cheap.
  6. I've been in for one of everything since the beginning. It's a mixed feeling of joy and trepidation watching the number of models available rise. Mostly joy, though! I'm just glad that I have enough powdered food to last me into December!
  7. Survey filled and sent (correctly I hope). I was seriously debating whether I wanted the Draugr or a T-shirt. Opted for the T-shirt as I thought, "Hey, I have the other 9 Tre zombies, these will probably not be all that different and do I really need 15 zombies (+ Bones and other zombies)?" After Tre's last update I regret not adding enough for the Draugr. Oh well, guess I'll have to wait until they're in the store, 'cause they're really kickin' - especially the one with the sword and shield.
  8. If the Mantic minis are actually resin instead then the plastic glue won't work. As for the RBG model, you could bump it up in the queue and submit it for this contest: Red Box Games Painting Contest 2014 It has a deadline of August 24th.
  9. A few sword hilts, a helmet, maybe a skeletal arm sticking out of the piles. The top of a chest (probably easier to fit on than a whole chest). Various gold/silver table wares (goblets, candlesticks, pitchers etc.) - although these are probably more difficult to make/get a hold of.
  10. IME, pine oil cleansers (the most common brand name here is PineSol) work about as well as Simple Green. And they make the room smell like pine – really a lot – for good or ill. Guess how easy pine oil cleansers are to get a hold of over here... It seems like either Dettol or Fairy Power Spray are the two most effective liquid paint strippers/mini cleaners available here in Europe and both have to be imported to my country from the UK. We do have an effective cleaner, but it's a thick gel like product, not exactly useful in an ultrasonic cleaner.
  11. The problem, for me, is that Simple Green is bloody expensive to buy outside the US.
  12. What kind of solution do you use in the ultrasonic cleaner? Just water? Water + soap? Another kind of cleaner?
  13. Aren't you afraid that the LEDs won't be strong enough to shine through the belly once you paint it?
  14. A quick comment on the photography: If you up the aperture - to 16+ - on your camera (if you're using a SLR camera where it's adjustable) you can get everything in focus (there are areas on some of the pictures which are out of focus). Also, reflected light will usually give a less "harsh" light - which might be why some of the colours are a little washed out as you say. I wrote a post in another thread linking to a photo set-up tutorial, which you might find useful: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48140-cashs-workbench/page-92#entry856613 As I also wrote in the other post, feel free to ask any questions regarding translation issues (the pictures in the linked tutorial are in Danish, but the description should explain everything).
  15. Lower right corner of the picture, by the opposite corner of the "plinth" where the other skull is.
  16. A quick search through the thread didn't reveal what type of camera you have now, but I wanted to post a link to a guide for taking pictures of minis if you have a SLR camera. It's from a Danish mini site, so it's a sketchy Google translate version: The slightly more advanced guide to mini photography. The end-result picture at the end of the post is missing, but here's a link to a post by the same guy of a mini taken by using his own guide above: http://www.powerfist.dk/forum/index.php?topic=40992.msg899755#msg899755 Since you'll probably still be using the background you're using now, instead of pure white, they'll look a little less "bright." If you have any questions regarding the translation, just ask.
  17. Yay is me, for I found my remaining supply of Testor's DullCote; woe is me, for it just started raining heavily in time for the weekend, and I'm sure you've heard the horror stories about spraying that stuff in high humidity environments... Yup, spraying in high humidity? Fuggetaboutit. Unless you can find a place with lots of ventilation and a drier indoor climate. But the risk of frosting is not to be taken lightly.
  18. Army Painter's matt spray is very good. Gives a very flat surface, similar to Dullcote, but cheaper to buy. Alternatively, if you want something to use in the airbrush, Vallejo's matt varnish should be quite good too.
  19. Two reasons: 1. Like you guessed, I have a lot more gloss medium than matte medium, and I don't want to waste the matte. The airbrush medium I mix it with is also gloss. 2. It's a holdover from my model railroading and lacquer painting days. I was always told to save matte clear coats until the final coat by railroad club members, magazines and the like. The reasons given were many: the gloss clear coats were more durable and less prone to cracking; the matte coats (which contain rough particles, like talc powder) would start to fog the underlying colors as more layers were added; decals could be applied over gloss coats without "silvering" from microscopic trapped air bubbles; dust and fibers don't cling to gloss coats as much as matte coats; matte mediums would yellow over time; gloss coats would spray better than matte; and gloss coats would allow subsequent paint layers to adhere better. If even half of those are true, it makes using gloss mediums and clear coats until the final layer worthwhile. Personally, I like to use a coat of gloss medium to "save off" the painting I've done before; that way, I can clean up messy brush strokes without fear of damaging the paint job underneath. I definitely know of the "save layer" method, although I've primarily used it and seen it used with actual gloss varnish instead of "just" gloss medium. It also gives a better (better flow/capillary action) and a more protective layer when using an oil wash (since you use harsher products to dilute the oil colour). I was curious as to whether you thought using a gloss medium gave a better flow of the wash than a matte medium, but it seems like that's not necessarily a given (since it's going on top of a regular/matte paint surface). Thanks for the reply!
  20. Question: Is there a specific reason why you use gloss medium, e.g. for the wash, rather than matt medium or any other kind of medium? Could be that it's just what you have at hand, but I wanted to be sure as I might pinch some of your methods for when I tackle Kaladrax myself.
  21. One thing you could try, set everything up and then put a piece of white paper right behind the miniature. That should get the camera to auto-focus on the miniature. Then remove the paper and shoot.
  22. All I did was to open your first picture in Photoshop and click "auto tone" and then "auto color" - presto. If you can't set the white balance on your camera they will come out yellow because of the light from the light bulbs. Depending on what type of camera you have you don't necessarily need brighter bulbs, as you can fiddle with the aperture. Also regarding light, this article might be of some use: http://rustandthecity.blogspot.com/2012/06/budget-miniature-photography-effect-of.html And this one for general set-up and tools: http://rustandthecity.blogspot.com/2012/06/budget-miniature-photography-my-tools.html
  23. Depending on what program you've used to do some brightness/contrast tweaking, you should be able to do some white balance or auto tone/auto colour correction too. That should take care of the sepia/yellow colours. You'll end up with a picture like this: As for GW resin minis, I assume you're referring to their newer Finecast minis. Yes, they're pretty bad.
  24. Several pro airbrush users use Windex (or some other similar window/glass cleaning solution) to spray through after use. It contains ammonia which should help clean the paint out - however, since it contains ammonia it isn't all that great to inhale. You do use a respirator mask when spraying, however, right? A slightly more expensive alternative is to buy some actual airbrush cleaner to spray through after you're done spraying (and maybe at certain intervals if you're doing a long spraying session with several colour changes). Vallejo makes a good airbrush cleaner and you can also find other airbrush brands, like Createx and Tamyia. I can see that Dick Blick has a non-toxic, biodegradable "EZ Air Airbrush Cleaner" too. Alternatively you could also use Simple Green (since it's a great product for stripping paint from miniatures - non-toxic and biodegradable too). Moisture/water problem: A water trap is an essential accessory when airbrushing. You can get hoses with built in water traps too. At the very least you should have one on the compressor itself. You can get one that screws unto the airbrush itself. Moisture build up can especially be a problem if you use a compressor without an air tank. Which leads me to my next suggestion. Compressor: I would suggest investing in a compressor with an air tank. This has several advantages. 1) You get a more regular/even airflow since it's coming from the tank and not directly from the compressor. 2) The air from the tank will be cooler. Cooler air = less clogging of the paint + less moisture build-up in the hose. 3) The air tank will also act as a kind of moisture trap (there's a moisture release valve at the bottom of the tank). 4) The compressor will fill up the tank and then turn off until the pressure reaches a certain level. That means that the compressor won't be running all the time = less chance of overheating, less noise, longer life span of the compressor. There's a relatively cheap model which is a good buy for this type of compressor. It's called an AS-186 although that might just be outside of the US. TCPGlobal has a compressor which is the same model, just with another name (you might be able to find the same type of compressor elsewhere too - eBay and Amazon are definitely options) - it seems like it's called a TC-20T in the US: http://www.tcpglobal.com/itemdetail_AB.aspx?itemno=ABD+TC-20T Hope this is useful.
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