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Everything posted by GentleGiant

  1. 3" bases almost unlocked. We'll probably not see another Trick or reveal for the next 37K until the next part of Expansion #2 is unlocked. Hmm, just made a discovery. I have a Huge Black Dragon from Paizo's prepainted line (made by WizKids). It sits on a 3" base. Which is flat on one side and has a raised edge on the other, exactly like these new bases. Interesting...
  2. Although one thing that CAN be said about them... they're big!
  3. I had pretty much decided to only post happy and supportive posts in the comments to the updates, instead of trying to show how silly it was of people to complain about everything... fell into the semi-negative trap again, though. Some people... I just don't get them. Complaining about getting free stuff - the bases again.
  4. Bulette funded... bar a pledge troll at work. And bases!!!
  5. The Bulette should be unlocked within an hour methinks.
  6. Laurent is the guy from Miniature Mentor, right? Haven't seen any of his videos, except some short snippets, but it seems like some of the techniques are similar to some of Wappels, namely a sort of "glazing"/using several layers of fairly thinned down paint. The prep work, base coats and so on might be different, though.
  7. In addition to the things already mentioned, I prefer magnetized bases to pluck-foam for transport. Pluck foam rubs against the miniatures every time you insert or remove the figure from its case. This can result in damage to the paint job fairly rapidly. But if you magnetize the bases and carry the figures in a box with a ferro-magnetic bottom, the figures never touch anything but air, so they don't get damaged. (I should note that it is possible for a significant transverse shock to pop the figures from the case, but IME that takes more force than you might think.) Here's an example of a way to make and use a magnetized storage container as Doug is describing:
  8. I hope CashWiley is OK with me posting this here, but it touches on some of the blending and consistency questions. Also, it's about Object Source Lighting, so it ties in with Cash's undertaker from earlier. It's a preview of one of the DVDs coming out later this year (hopefully, although it might get pushed to January) from a great painter named James Wappel - he did a Kickstarter to fund the making of the DVDs.
  9. Errr, what? What hat did you pull that one out of? There's a section in the Kickstarter FAQ dealing with stretchgoals and how to manage them.
  10. Reaper Miniatures about 1 hour ago @Niranth - I *could* if we had closer to full participation. Right now only 9,000 of 13,000 have used it. Of those, less than a third are ROW Ohhh, that's interesting. Ignoring the fact that only 3/4 of the pledgers have used the calculator it's still interesting that ROW seems to be such a large part. Admittedly, "less than a third" can mean anything from 0.1% up to 33%, but compare that with the 25% ROW pledgers from Bones I AND the shipping kerfluffle.
  11. MmmmMm, that sounds delish! I've been thinking of trying out various stews and such in my slow cooker this coming winter. I'd probably switch out the jalapeno peppers for regular bell peppers and some mushrooms, though. Can you post the whole recipe?
  12. Testing is always good advice. Of course, I can also only report from my own observations and I might just not have run across any products which reacts the same as the Krylon products you've used. It might indeed be the acetone, I haven't checked the various products I've used over the years for a precise content run down. As Draxism reports, there might be other options, even within the Krylon range.
  13. I used this comparison chart to find the other colours: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
  14. This has not been my experience at all. See here and here for some past discussion on this point. The TLDR summary is that I found Krylon acrylic gloss followed by matte spray look fine initially, but over time gradually turn shiny and slightly tacky. Same sprays work just fine on metal. Others have had different experiences, but for me personally, I will not use any aerosal spray containing acetone on Bones. Brush on sealers work great. I would recommend people try sprays on a Bones figure once, and then let it sit for 3-4 weeks. If it still looks as good as new, go for it. That might be a problem with the weather and/or the varnish product itself. Just because the particular product (Krylon) you've used exhibit those tendencies doesn't necessarily mean that other aerosol varnishes will do the same. And since the varnish isn't in contact with the plastic of the Bones mini itself (since it should be covered by at least one layer of acrylic paint) it seems to be a property of the varnish itself, not the combination. I've used aerosol varnishes in the past with no problems (mostly GW products - Krylon products haven't been available in the past where I live). Now I use Vallejo varnishes through my airbrush and have a can of Army Painter matt varnish too (which works pretty much as well as Dullcote, which isn't available as a spray over here either).
  15. Thanks! I'll see if I can find equivalents in Vallejo colours. Otherwise I might have to scrape enough together (after the KS!) to get a shipment directly from Reaper. Okay, did a little digging around. I don't know if there's an equivalent to Walnut Brown in any of the other colour ranges, but here's what I came up with for the rest: (Vallejo = Game Color/Model Color) (GW = Old GW/New GW) Sapphire Blue:Walnut Brown 2:1 or 3:2 (I eyeball it) (Vallejo = Magic Blue/Dark Blue:??? (GW = Enchanted Blue/Caledor Sky:???) Twilight Blue (Vallejo = Sombre Grey/Oxford Blue) (GW = Shadow Grey/The Fang) Twilight Blue:Snow Shadow 1:1 (Vallejo = Sombre Grey/Oxford Blue:Wolf Grey/Pale Greyblue) (GW = Shadow Grey/The Fang:Space Wolves Grey/Fenrisian Grey) Snow Shadow (Vallejo = Wolf Grey/Pale Greyblue) (GW = Space Wolves Grey/Fenrisian Grey) Snow Shadow: Pure White (eyeballed again) (Vallejo = Wolf Grey/Pale Greyblue:Dead White/White) (GW = Space Wolves Grey/Fenrisian Grey:Skull White/White Scar) Pure White (Vallejo = Dead White/White) (GW = Skull White/White Scar)
  16. Have you posted your NMM colours before? Like the ones used on the helmet.
  17. Our current pledge: 3 Core Set 2 Core Expansion Set #1 1 Core Expansion Set #2 3 Heroes and Villains 3 Master Series Paints 2 Master Series Paints 2 2 Oh, Rats 1 Unleash the Kraken 1 Lords of Darkness 5 Narthrax Dragon 1 Mouselings 2 Water elementals option 2 Gelatinous Cube 3 Hill Giants 1 Dungeon Decor II 2 Blightfang 2 Cinder 1 Sylvan Creatures 1 Devils 1 Greater Demons That's from 5 people where two of us share one of the core sets and the other two sets are one each for two of the other pledgers. There are still some of the stuff available which I'm considering pledging for (including Mashaaf!), although some of it will have to wait until the post-KS phase. Then there's the stuff we haven't seen yet (I'm definitely in for the ruins/dragon set!).
  18. If you want to varnish your painted minis the best way is to first give it a coat of gloss varnish and then a coat of matt varnish (after the first coat has dried). Gloss varnish is stronger than matt varnish so it will protect the mini better. However it won't look pretty so the matt varnish is used to dull down the shine. If you have any parts you want to be gloss and shiny you can paint on another layer on those areas afterwards again. A single (or 2-3) coats of just matt varnish might also be sufficient, depends on how the mini is going to be used and handled.
  19. That's primers sprayed directly on the unpainted Bones mini. Those which are enamel based stay sticky. Acrylic aerosols don't have that problem (neither does brush-on primers or airbrush primers like the Vallejo brand ones). The one brand most people have reported working just fine is Army Painter primers. Again, this is primers. When it comes to putting a "sealer" or varnish coat on, any varnish should work, both brush-on types and aerosols (or brush-on used in an airbrush for a thinner layer). Since this is put on the painted model it won't stay sticky since it's not reacting with the bare Bones plastic. Gloss varnish is tougher than matt varnish, but might leave the model too shiny for most people's preference. The preferred method to get a very solid coat of varnish is then to first put on a gloss varnish (for protection) and then a coat of matt varnish (to dull the shine down again).
  20. http://www.bones.kgdcraftermath.com/
  21. Bryan Stiltz 24 minutes ago yes. He is at it again. Manipulating pledges. We have reported it but have no capacity to otherwise do anything, like ban or block. Yeah, several people have speculated that the credit card company might view this as odd behaviour and do something about it.
  22. Creator Reaper Miniatures 9 minutes ago We've reported this backer before - every few days they muck about with their pledge total by as much as $2500. They do tiny incremental increases over a few hours so it's not noticed, and then subtracting it all at once to create panic. Seriously? Who does that kind of thing?
  23. The paints you can get from this KS are HD paints (High Density, they have a larger concentration of pigments) so this review might be of use to you (the actual review of the paint consistency and so starts at about the 5 minute mark): Ron Hawkins 7 minutes ago Okay, Bryan just texted me. He saw the Bryansignal up in the beautiful Texas sky this morning, and now he's on the way to update. Give him a few minutes to slide down the Reaper pole, into the Reaper cave, to the Reaper computer, to push the big red button.
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