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About Crsdawg

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  1. I've done my best to try not think about what all I actually purchased (I think I bought ~100 dollars of extras) and ignore unboxing vids and sutch so that when the box arrives its contents will something of a surprise. I've also got at least 1 of the so far released bones, so I know I'll be quite happy with the quality of the figs.
  2. Bryan, thanks for the info. I've never dealt with a company so responsive to its customers questions. I agree with Alan, it would be pretty cool to get these sorts of updates...of course I have a feeling you guys might have your hands full with other Bones related duties atm.
  3. Just curious. Part of the appeal of the Bones KS was knowing that a portion of my pledge was going towards moving production to Texas. I'd love to hear how that is going. The last I heard (here on the forums) was that the machines were being ordered but there was no time frame for their arrival...any new news?
  4. If you are determined to find your mini you can check this aptly named site...http://www.miniature...title=Main_Page There's some fun times digging in there even if you don't find what your looking for...thousands of pics of vintage to newer minis.
  5. I think that is getting there...have you tried painting the backside of the mini black? Thicker parts of the mini would show less of the paint and therefore you'd see the texture.
  6. I've been pecking away at these two minis since I backed off of my little cloaked elf and Bones ghost and thought I'd post. Any tips or constructive critiques are welcome. This is a Sathar, with gun (snappy name I think) from TSR's Star Frontiers line. I really like this model...it's not all that detailed but it has so much character. But then, I'm a sucker for vintage minis...my parents never let me play RPGs when I was growing up for fear of my soul, so maybe I'm compensating. Anyway these are my base colors which I starting with. This is pretty much where I'm at now. I added some details and did some work on the base (plain model but fairly detailed base, weird huh?). I haven't figured out how I want to handle the eyes. TSR painted this fig orange with grey eyes and black pupils (2 per eye). I'm not sure what I want to do, though I would like for the eyes to have a reflection effect as they are a natural focal point. My next step is to clean up some of the yellow areas and then do some washes. I just picked up a green and red wash and I was going to try those on the back and belly then work on blending and highlights. This worm is almost done. He's destined for table duty so I'm not worried about making him perfect. Still I want to add some shading and then do some more dry brushing....I also haven't done anything besides base coat the mouth or worked much on the base.
  7. Has anyone used Krylon triple thick clear glaze? I've used this in the past to protect the paint side of a pinball machine backglass. This is a staple product for pinball enthusiasts, but was unsure as to how well it would work on a mini. As long as there are no color or haze issues, I'm not sure you could find many products that would provide more protection as it puts on a fairly thick/hard coat.
  8. Something I'd mention is that Geologist are not miners...they are the people who go out and find mineable places (amongst many other duties). If I were to use that sample as a base in a diorama for my Geologist sister, I'd want to try to build an image that would emulate what she might look like in the field. Female figure, rock hammer in hand, some sort of mineral in the other. Sure most of the guys and gals on here love dwarves and elves...but does she? Maybe she does, but keeping her tastes in mind is something to consider. Also, about the sample. Don't sweat putting something on there. Most gemstones, especially examples like yours in their raw state, are much more common than a jeweler or rock shop owner would like you to believe. An emerald is just the mineral Beryl that formed with a particular set of contaminates. Rubies are simply red Corundum, and Amethysts are just purple Quartz. It's a neat thing, but not sacred.
  9. Something that's been kicking around in my head is scale appropriate minis for popular board games that only use pawns or have poor quality components...we've been playing a lot of Pandemic lately and the player pieces are very boring and ,imo, detract form the game. I've looked all over for miniatures to sub in for them but haven't found a good match yet. Some other ideas...how about detailed train cars for Ticket to Ride or metal Meeples. I'm sure there are other games as well. Probably even for mainstream games. Also, I'd be all over some Ghost Hunter type figs. That is an idea that needs to happen.
  10. Here are the pics...sorry for the bad photo quality and paint jobs, my camera wasn't cooperating and these are the first minis I'd painted (I only had a few bottles of paint when I did the AL minis). I pullled out the ole caliper and found the AL mini to be 25mm from the soles of his shoes to the top of his helmet...the Reaper mini goes to ~30mm to his eyes. It's a big difference, more than I'd like if I had them both in a game. The elf even dwarfs the mounted figures. As for bulk minis to buy, I paid about 18 cents each for 55 minis...and got what I paid for quality wise (which was fine for my purposes) and there are more expensive options with better minis. You could also try to find a lot on ebay with a bunch of vintage minis, these often go for roughly $1 per mini. The problem with games like Heroquest, Battlemasters, DnD board games such as Castle Ravenloft is that you just don'e get enough minis per dollar. A Heroquest set will cost you $35+ before s/h and the minis aren't a lot better than these Arcane Legions figs. For the same cost you could have 30-40 awesome Grenadier, Heritage, or Ral Partha minis just oozing with vintage RPG flavor. DnD series boardgames and Descent are even more expensive. Of course if you want to play these games that changes the equation. Descent is quite good.
  11. Yeah, those minis will look funny next to the 28mm figures you get from Reaper, they are just too small... but have served me well as disposable, newbie painter victims. I can post some pics in a bit to show scale and sculpt quality. While these are not the greatest minis you can find...they grew on me after a while.
  12. I started with a couple boxes of Arcane Legions troops which can be had at miniature market for $8.00 ea (I actually only paid $5 a box on a scratch and dent deal). You get 40 minis in the infantry box and 15 in a cavalry box. Having bought one of each, I'd recommend the cavalry as the sculpts are bigger and more interesting. They also have a starter box with a 120 minis for $15, but unless you want to play the game, I think that is too many of these. They are 25mm with small details that will help tighten your brush control and since they are so cheap who cares if you mess a few up. Keep in mind these are plastic, and most of the sculpts are only so so, but for beginner painters, such as myself, I think it's great value. After much looking, I haven't found a better deal for bulk minis.
  13. So I did some more work on this fig....thought I was done...took some new pics...close, close-up shots, flash, slow shutter, macro...uploaded pics to computer...opened up the files...(silence)...ran screaming from room
  14. Thanks for all the compliments and critiques, nobody likes to be criticized but it's important to know what your doing right and wrong if one wants to improve. I agree that the biggest miss with this mini is the low lights...It's ironic actually, I started the fig determined not to make that mistake. With that said, I think I'm going to leave it (mostly) as it is, I've got a line of other Reaper mini's in que, the first of my vintage dragons just showed up yesterday, and I need to move on. I don't mind documenting my progress as a painter (lumps and all) so this will make for a good comparison when I paint up my bones Anirion next year. I've worked on this one some more and will try to get some pics up tomorrow. As for the colors I used , I tried to hit the earthy, somewhat camouflaged, wood elf, and wearing a tunic given to him by Galadriel vibe. Plus I am fond of muted earth tones, so this will probably be a common theme in my painting. Also, I downloaded the DOTA Character Art Guide art and that doc was a great help with my color choices (from a link thanks to Reaper forum members). The robe is based with older Citedel Komando Kaki with Army Painter Necrotic Flesh on the trim. I used MSP-HD Woodland Brown and Mossy Green mixed in for shading (something like 2-1, 1-1, 1-2 depending on where it was going). I also used Vallejo foundation white to mix the highlights. I don't have any washes atm, so when I wash I have been simply watering down "in use" colors. For this mini I tried to wash as little as possible so only the hands and face got a wash, though I did give some areas a light glaze to smooth out the transitions. It's interesting how different various brands of paints work...so far I've tried 3-4 brands of model paints as well as some cheap acrylics from Micheal's and I've had positive results with everything so far, but every kind has it's own personality (and some play nicer than others, heh).
  15. Hey guys...been lurking here for a while looking for painting tips and KS updates (like most of you I have a pile of bones coming my way at some point in the future) and thought I'd put up my latest WIP. This guy is getting near completion, but I thought it would be a good idea to get some constructive criticism before I take him off the cap. This is the fifth or sixth mini I've painted and my first attempt at deep shading. I'm relatively happy with how it's coming out...though I was happier with him before I looked at these close-up shots. It's funny how much better he looks at a foot away versus an inch. I'm nearly done with the cloak. I just want to clean up some slop and overzealous highlighting. I think he's probably a bit to light to be honest but I think addressing that issue will end poorly. So I'll just try to avoid that problem with my next project. My next step is to work on the staff which is only base coated atm.
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