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Everything posted by LiquidLimn

  1. To all the folks at Reaper, I'd like to issue a big "Thank You!" for an excellent kickstarter. My wife and I definitely agree with Ron Hawkins. This year the art team did an amazing job! A majority of the minis offered were truly remarkable and special. This is definitely the best Bones KS of the three. There's only one thing that isn't thankful for this kickstarter and that's my wallet, but to be fair, I don't care about the feelings of unliving objects. Thanks Reaper!
  2. Waiting for Bones II to ship.

  3. Once my camera with a decent macro mode charges, I'll see if I can't post them somewhere so you guys can see what I'm talking about. I'm just concerned because this is roughly 10% of my models with this problem. And, keep in mind, it's not a lack of detail in all cases. some of the minies are literally missing their lower jaws and noses. Either that or half of their face has no detail at all. It's definitely not caused by the semi-transperant nature of the bones plastic. It's amost as if not enough plastic was injected into the mold. If this is the case, the only reason I'm seeing it on faces is simple: that's the only place I bother looking because I cannot reliably repair molding and casting errors in this region. Anywhere else I can make it look passable, but any errors on the face are instantly recognizable, even to a layman. Like I said earlier, I know Reaper will take care of me, and I'm extremely pleased with the remainder of my models (minus the extremely flexible bones material also trending in another thread).
  4. Greetings all! I've just finished inventorying and inspecting all ~250 of my bones figures from the Kickstarter order! Lots of great looking minis in this order. One thing that has been fairly prevalent however, is the complete lack of detail around the chin, nose, and mouth areas of the minis. I have roughly 20 minis with this problem to varying degrees. Some of them are so bad they don't even have chins or noses! Has anyone else experienced this problem or am I being overly picky? I'm OK with putty, but if I was that good, I wouldn't need to buy minis in the first place. Given the face is one of the parts of a mini that is immediately noticable if something is amiss, this has troubled me to no small degree. I'd post a pic, but Reaper doesn't allow image hosting on this part of the forums. I'm positive Reaper will take care of the models that I'm not happy with, but I wasn't sure how prevalent this problem actually is as I couldn't find a single topic on this issue. *Can't wait to get started!*
  5. My Kaladrax Head and tail, the female giants, and C'thulu's head are all extremely flexible. Almost like a soft rubber rather than plastic. I'm especially concerned given a previous poster was commenting that his rubbery bones that were painted suffered from flaking paint. I fear no amount of dull-cote will resove this. A wash with thinned super-glue may help as previously suggested, but then as the item flexes (as you know it will) it will most likely crack and then flake.
  6. After your spray basecoat, it's important to lay down whatever main color you'll be using on each section of the mini in several thinned down coats. This will give you a nice foundation to build shadows and highlights with later. The nice thing about white spray basecoats is that generally, you don't have to work to overcome blacks natural dullness. The colors will appear vibrant even after your first coat of paint is complete. The trade-off, as you've noticed, is you need to spend a little more time coating the cracks and crevices of your mini to prevent missing white basecoat. I generally resolve this by coating the recessed areas of my mini with multiple coats of a thin black wash before basecoating each area of the mini with the main color.
  7. For your first mini, I'm impressed! I agree with Klyons99 about your brush control. I don't see any paint in odd places either. I can also tell you spent a lot of time on the eyes. I haven't even done a mini yet with colored eyes!
  8. Oh my! That is simply going to be a treat to paint! Finally a dragon that fits with the scale provided! Dragons should be terrifying creatures, not piddly little things barely larger than the average human at the shoulder! I can't wait to see the zombie dragon. I love painting rotting flesh! To Reaper: Thank you so much for the opportunity to obtain this "mini" at below MSRP with a bulk order! Not only is it an incredible deal, but Reaper has the best selection and sculpts in the industry! I wish more companies treated their customers the way Reaper treats us!
  9. Sorry Tranquil Ape, I missed your post. That's a laminar flow hood. That's where I prime and airbrush my minis. There's a blower inside that sucks air from the front of the hood and blows it up through a charcoal filter in the top. No smells when I use spray primer and no inhaling paint! I should really use my airbrush more...
  10. Sometimes it's not about winning or losing, but about looking good doing it!
  11. Anything is better than "basecoat black" which is all I usually see at local games!
  12. Finally, someone posted the most unique Reaper mini ever. The Faceless Horror! It's been in my painting queue for a while. Might be time crack open that packaging.
  13. I didn't even think of it like that. How funny! Definitely going to go darker than it is, but throw some snow flocking on that base and it could easily pass for a Hoth ice cavern... Where's my tauntaun?? I'm not too crazy about the paper clay I used to form the base because it cracked like crazy during drying because of the shrinkage. I was apprehensive about using wood putty because of the drying as well. Anyone else have any suggestions for a nice air dry product that isn't expensive, is lightweight, and cheap to form bulk terrain?
  14. It was the 02140 version. Unfortunately, due to the negative sentiment that model holds, it has been relinquished to the metal trade-in bag. I have to admit, I looked for the model after your post too...
  15. Added some more detail to the stone column and other spots. I'll try to post another pic if I get time. I'm going to be taking it easy for the next couple of weeks. Not only because this project has grown in scope and detail, but also because I have some important stuff going on. It'll still get finished, but my new goal is mid-November.
  16. It is nice to know that there is an alternative product that you can use to make a high gloss finish and wont eat through paint and other modelling compounds. Unfortunately, that doesn't answer the question of how to keep it on your base. Letting the product run off of the sides as stated in the instruction manual wouldn't work for me, as I'm trying to create "deep" water. I'm going for roughly 1/3"-1/2".
  17. I'm also looking for this answer. I think a formwork will be required. I’ll probably be using Realistic Water myself on my next scenic base. There’s some good video about Woodland Scenics on Youtube, I could see interesting ones about Realistic Water effects. Unfortunately, they only cover using the product in a depression. What I intend to do, is have the product be at the edge of a base. I've found some videos on YouTube that deal with this problem, but because of using a barrier, the realistic water has a tendency to climb up the sides, leaving a concave edge at the barrier. This wouldn't be a big deal when doing a large scale train layout, but for 28mm mini's, it's huge.
  18. This one. They have the same palette without the lid for about half of the price. The brand is Richeson.
  19. Wow. There's a lot of nice setups out there. My biggest gripe is my lighting. I'm working on getting a nice & bright Ott Light or something similar. Here's where I spend 75% of my time when I'm not working/sleeping:
  20. I think you did an excellent job on the wings. Unique pastel color choices too. They totally fit the mini though.
  21. I wish more war gamers put in even an ounce of effort. I applaud your efforts! If your goal is to get better at painting, don't get discouraged and don't be afraid to ask questions! You're off to a great start, just keep at it.
  22. One product I like to use for sanding plastic minis are plastic sanding needles (Part # HSX-400). They have an assortment of grits, and it makes only taking a little off very easy. I haven't tried them on Reaper Bones yet, but I've used them quite a bit on GW pastics/resin and they work great. My LGS has them for roughly $7 and one pack will last you for life.
  23. Stressing about the Purple Worm coming together.

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