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Broken Toy

Bones Supporter
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  1. Hopefully it won't become like that. The 'home' 3D printers of today are based on open source technologies; anyone can step up and make their own line if the need arises. It's almost impossible to 'lock' a printer down to a specific cartridge or material unless you design it that way, so printer-exclusive cartridges on FDM printers would get weird looks and be called the 'retard kid' by everyone because nobody 'locks' their cartridges in this day and age. On STL printers (the ones that can make 25 micron minis) it gets better. Even on a 'closed' system like the Form 1, other resins have been found to be compatible and sometimes outperform the original due to denser pigments, and there is no 'cartridge'; you must pour the resin in an open vat. Therefore, the issue has been sidestepped on every side.
  2. No. Just... no. I own a 3D printer. On my way to a second. Even the cost of the machine + material makes buying and using one WAY more reasonable than 3d printing services, provided you're not comatose or vegetative. You can make so much more than minis on these, and actually print objects for your friends and neighbors. You become more of a creator and less of a consumer. Nothing beats that. Selling the -files- makes a lot of sense, if the interface makes it convenient enough to generate print-ready files. Then they can be made locally or using whichever printing service you are most comfortable with, when you want, the size you want, in as many copies as you want. Shipping woes and environmental impact also become a thing of the past. You produce as locally as can be. So if you go for 3D printed stuff, consider getting a printer yourself and/or create cool models to release on thingiverse, and help these wonderful machines gain a larger user base. /end rant Edit: Just read that they also gave the option to get the STL files for printing. If priced reasonably, that makes all the difference. Way to go!
  3. Given the variety of choices so far, I'm starting to wonder if a shop credit option with price reduced by a % wouldn't be a good idea... Contribute to the campaign, get a rebate, get exactly what you want. Win-win-win. No?
  4. Or, given the size, some kind of 1:1 scale chestbuster prop!
  5. Mine arrived 2 days ago, delivered by a UPS rep who rang the doorbel then ran away to her truck like a thief. Funny! Every single mini and part is accounted for: Vampire, Force of Nature (yep!), Deep Dwellers and Cthulhu for myself as well as Kaladrax, Nethyrmaul and a griffon for friends. There was also an extra set of NOVA troopers (just how many of those were made in excess, I wonder!) and an extra Kaladrax girl. Sidenote: Hot glue works wonderfully well on Cthulhu and Nethyrmaul after heating the joints a little, I assume because at a high enough temperature it melts and fuses with the plastic. Hot glue is flexible and can be heated/cooled over and over (!), which means you can overfill joints and touch up the area with the tip of the glue gun again and again to make it seamless, then come back a few days later and redo the job if you so desire. It didn't hold Kaladrax's wings and tail pieces very well (maybe it would with pegs), but this one was bought as a display piece so it's actually a good thing that the limbs remain detachable.
  6. It shouldn't have any adverse effect; the very nice thing about boiling water is that it stays close to 100°C all the time so the heat can safely diffuse itself and there should be no risk of melting as long as the minis don't stay in contact with the pot (same as when cooking, really!). That said, I've only used hot faucet water on Descent minis (still waiting for my Bones shipment to Canada...) and it worked fine, only I had to constantly check the temperature didn't go too low as I kept reusing the same water in a pot.
  7. If your mini returns to its former shape after a while, that's because you didn't heat it enough. Here's why. There are two kinds of deformations happening to solids: elastic deformation and plastic deformation. Elastic deformation is when the solid accumulates forces but is able to release them (like a spring). Plastic deformation is when you go beyond the elastic deformation threshold; the remaining forces work on the structure of the solid. In short: You must go past a solid's elasticity threshold every time you want to deform it. When heating a solid, you bring it closer to a liquid state thus lower its elastic threshold and make it easier to deform permanently. To make things simple when it comes to deformation, imagine that solids are elastic and liquids are plastic. Therefore you must heat your Bones as much as possible (without melting them!) so that your deformation takes hold. Even when boiling, they remain elastic so you must still deform past their elasticity threshold to do permanent 'damage'. Freezing has no effect, except to bring the mini faster to a low temperature where it becomes more solid (elastic) and less liquid (plastic). What freezing really helps with, is to make the time you need to hold the mini in position much shorter.
  8. They should really focus on the software. The point of 3D printers is to produce custom things locally, on demand and thus to avoid shipping and storage issues. What's really missing is good software so more people can make printable content without having to get a lot of training. That and there's a whole set of expectations that come with remotely-produced minis that can be avoided if people instead buy the software or its output and print them themselves (either through their own printer or a printing service).
  9. Got my system check email, so there's at least one Canadian confirmed. (Edit: And just after posting this, I find day-old updates in the forums. Durr)
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