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Super Jag

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  • Birthday 12/01/1970

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  1. See... now that's what I'm getting at. I don't consider something collectible unless it's going to be worth something down the road. Frankly I don't see how miniatures and/or card games are going to be collectible at any point. Personally I just enjoy getting the basic amount I need to be involved and whatever fits my interest (e.g.: Heroclix JLA theme). I can't help but think that "collectible" in the gaming industry is a loosely used term to drive sales for a product that realistically is worthless.
  2. Okay... someone please tell me what it is that distinguishes a "Collectible" game (miniatures, cards, etc.) from just any other game? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, but really, I'd like to know. I've seen people spend ridiculous amounts of money on games often claiming they were "collectible." I just don't get it or don't agree with what many consider to be a collectible game. Thanks for clarification.
  3. Evil is as Evil does... playing undead is what I loves!!!!
  4. Great question (werewolf possibility)! And welcome to the forums. My 2 cents worth: I'd choose a suitable data card (ranging from better than average up to maybe even Warlord). Next consider "HOW" would the character change from one form to the other with regards to Special Abilities. For the sake of simplicity I'd try and keep BOTH versions using the SAME data card, but let the Special Abilities make the difference. Obviously, use SA's that are sensible for the both the humanoid (cerebral?) and the werewolf (version (beastly?). As for mechanics, I'd probably have to agree that the model would need to, at a minimum, INVOKE the transformation, and/or "pass" an entire turn to represent transformation. I think a one turn factor is sufficient rather than dealing with a "changing" data card while a model goes through several turns of transformation. Option #1 example: Use the Lupine Lord's data card. Drop the SA's while the model is a human. After the turn it transforms, put the original SA's back in action. Option #2 example: Same as #1, but add appropriate SA's while in human form, then switch the SA's to the Lupine form after transformation. Special Ability suggestions (to differentiate between human and werewolf): A) Beast and/or Bloodlust and/or Ranger and/or Runner to represent increased speed/agility. B) Horrid and/or Shock... well, a werewolf itself would scare the dooky out of me! C) Tough... I'd like to see at least a value of 2, but that's just preference. D) Warmaster because all the werewolfs I saw in the movies tore shat up. Good luck figuring it out and hopefully it works out so you can play a werewolf in some games.
  5. I've seen players loop small colored paper clips over models for various tracking reasons to help distinguish one troop from another. Perhaps by looking around the hobby stores there might be some "alternative" smallish items that could be placed on models in a similar fashion. Personally I had envisioned small donut shaped colored rings that could easily fit on weapons or body parts. The small tack/nail on the base and putting a colored bead on it does work quite well too. And play nice guys... there's plenty of kitty poo in the sandbox for everyone to throw around.
  6. I learned a trick a couple years ago, which I've never actually used but it made good sense to me... ... Putting the miniatures in the refrigerator/freezer will make the glue "brittle" or something like that. In essence MUCH easier to pull apart. Mind you, we were discussing separating parts that had been "super glued." Maybe this tip will work with other glues too. I hope that helps.
  7. I'll keep the C & D models in mind for future possibilities. Thanks for the offer though. Did you mean you'd have been bored playing OpFor as the PSYROS in your scenario? Because of there only being 3 PSYRO data cards in the JOR currently?
  8. Use what you've got and have a good ole time!!! Even if you can showcase some of the newer cavalry models alongside some of your non-Reaper models you'd be doing a service to Reaper while having fun for yourself. Really it's a win-win situation. Just tell everyone upfront what the deal is and that eventually you plan to have a complete set of the "proper" models. It's WAY more important that you enjoy the game. Seems to me that most people I know that got too concerned with waiting to play painted and/or proper models missed out on a number of games because of it. Frankly, there'll always be models that need assembled, painted, or proxied. Just try to keep up as best as possible. If you fall behind a bit, just wing it. I know the Reaper VIP have told us many a time (something similar if not word for word): "Real life before gaming." Well, if that doesn't epitomize the concept that you take care of your priorities and make do with your limited miniatures resources, then I don't know what does.
  9. If any of you have put PSYROS to use in your games please give me some feedback. I've never seen them used as a player nor as a Black Lightning rep. So, I've created a simple scenario for a PSYRO invasion event. Before I run it (PSYRO scenario) I'd like to hear any experienced points if you have any. Also, what have you used as proxy models for PSYROS? Thanks.
  10. I have tried this and can vouch that it does work. Whether it's exactly as you envisioned will be up to you to decide. I once painted a CAV spider mech to look like a Black Widow spider... I applied a coat or two of black ink wash over the orginal black paint and got the glossy effect I was looking for. Good luck.
  11. Whoa!!! Now THAT is too COOL!!!!!!!
  12. Anybody have some tips about painting Lizardmen in a relatively "lazy" and time efficient manner, without giving up on too much of the depth? As a related point... I'm also considering painting them somewhat differently, but not TOO extraordinary, than "typical" Lizardmen schemes. For now I envisioned: 1. spraying them with a brownish primer/paint base 2. green inking the models 3. silver painting weapons & shields (brown for wood shafted items) 4. black ink washing the silver items. 5. minor details (e.g.: eyes, teeth, etc.) Frankly I'm not sure I can convince myself to paint sloppy or lazy just for the sake of speed, but I really don't want to put much effort into this particular batch of Lizardmen. And like I said, I am interested in a "different" paint scheme. Thanks for your suggestions.
  13. Technically I didn't think the game was over until ALL the initiative cards had been flipped and the END phase was completed for the very last card. With that in mind... the model with Tough (side B) "SHOULD" get his card AND his opportunity to recover with his SA Tough. If successful then he/she is the victor. If he/she fails the Tough roll and dies, then apparently with no one left it would be a tie game. Unless special circumstances allow for the negating of the SA Tough, do NOT disallow the player/model his SA.
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