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Super Jag

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Everything posted by Super Jag

  1. See... now that's what I'm getting at. I don't consider something collectible unless it's going to be worth something down the road. Frankly I don't see how miniatures and/or card games are going to be collectible at any point. Personally I just enjoy getting the basic amount I need to be involved and whatever fits my interest (e.g.: Heroclix JLA theme). I can't help but think that "collectible" in the gaming industry is a loosely used term to drive sales for a product that realistically is worthless.
  2. Okay... someone please tell me what it is that distinguishes a "Collectible" game (miniatures, cards, etc.) from just any other game? Sorry if this seems like a dumb question, but really, I'd like to know. I've seen people spend ridiculous amounts of money on games often claiming they were "collectible." I just don't get it or don't agree with what many consider to be a collectible game. Thanks for clarification.
  3. Evil is as Evil does... playing undead is what I loves!!!!
  4. Great question (werewolf possibility)! And welcome to the forums. My 2 cents worth: I'd choose a suitable data card (ranging from better than average up to maybe even Warlord). Next consider "HOW" would the character change from one form to the other with regards to Special Abilities. For the sake of simplicity I'd try and keep BOTH versions using the SAME data card, but let the Special Abilities make the difference. Obviously, use SA's that are sensible for the both the humanoid (cerebral?) and the werewolf (version (beastly?). As for mechanics, I'd probably have to agree that the model would need to, at a minimum, INVOKE the transformation, and/or "pass" an entire turn to represent transformation. I think a one turn factor is sufficient rather than dealing with a "changing" data card while a model goes through several turns of transformation. Option #1 example: Use the Lupine Lord's data card. Drop the SA's while the model is a human. After the turn it transforms, put the original SA's back in action. Option #2 example: Same as #1, but add appropriate SA's while in human form, then switch the SA's to the Lupine form after transformation. Special Ability suggestions (to differentiate between human and werewolf): A) Beast and/or Bloodlust and/or Ranger and/or Runner to represent increased speed/agility. B) Horrid and/or Shock... well, a werewolf itself would scare the dooky out of me! C) Tough... I'd like to see at least a value of 2, but that's just preference. D) Warmaster because all the werewolfs I saw in the movies tore shat up. Good luck figuring it out and hopefully it works out so you can play a werewolf in some games.
  5. I've seen players loop small colored paper clips over models for various tracking reasons to help distinguish one troop from another. Perhaps by looking around the hobby stores there might be some "alternative" smallish items that could be placed on models in a similar fashion. Personally I had envisioned small donut shaped colored rings that could easily fit on weapons or body parts. The small tack/nail on the base and putting a colored bead on it does work quite well too. And play nice guys... there's plenty of kitty poo in the sandbox for everyone to throw around.
  6. I learned a trick a couple years ago, which I've never actually used but it made good sense to me... ... Putting the miniatures in the refrigerator/freezer will make the glue "brittle" or something like that. In essence MUCH easier to pull apart. Mind you, we were discussing separating parts that had been "super glued." Maybe this tip will work with other glues too. I hope that helps.
  7. I'll keep the C & D models in mind for future possibilities. Thanks for the offer though. Did you mean you'd have been bored playing OpFor as the PSYROS in your scenario? Because of there only being 3 PSYRO data cards in the JOR currently?
  8. Use what you've got and have a good ole time!!! Even if you can showcase some of the newer cavalry models alongside some of your non-Reaper models you'd be doing a service to Reaper while having fun for yourself. Really it's a win-win situation. Just tell everyone upfront what the deal is and that eventually you plan to have a complete set of the "proper" models. It's WAY more important that you enjoy the game. Seems to me that most people I know that got too concerned with waiting to play painted and/or proper models missed out on a number of games because of it. Frankly, there'll always be models that need assembled, painted, or proxied. Just try to keep up as best as possible. If you fall behind a bit, just wing it. I know the Reaper VIP have told us many a time (something similar if not word for word): "Real life before gaming." Well, if that doesn't epitomize the concept that you take care of your priorities and make do with your limited miniatures resources, then I don't know what does.
  9. If any of you have put PSYROS to use in your games please give me some feedback. I've never seen them used as a player nor as a Black Lightning rep. So, I've created a simple scenario for a PSYRO invasion event. Before I run it (PSYRO scenario) I'd like to hear any experienced points if you have any. Also, what have you used as proxy models for PSYROS? Thanks.
  10. I have tried this and can vouch that it does work. Whether it's exactly as you envisioned will be up to you to decide. I once painted a CAV spider mech to look like a Black Widow spider... I applied a coat or two of black ink wash over the orginal black paint and got the glossy effect I was looking for. Good luck.
  11. Whoa!!! Now THAT is too COOL!!!!!!!
  12. Anybody have some tips about painting Lizardmen in a relatively "lazy" and time efficient manner, without giving up on too much of the depth? As a related point... I'm also considering painting them somewhat differently, but not TOO extraordinary, than "typical" Lizardmen schemes. For now I envisioned: 1. spraying them with a brownish primer/paint base 2. green inking the models 3. silver painting weapons & shields (brown for wood shafted items) 4. black ink washing the silver items. 5. minor details (e.g.: eyes, teeth, etc.) Frankly I'm not sure I can convince myself to paint sloppy or lazy just for the sake of speed, but I really don't want to put much effort into this particular batch of Lizardmen. And like I said, I am interested in a "different" paint scheme. Thanks for your suggestions.
  13. Technically I didn't think the game was over until ALL the initiative cards had been flipped and the END phase was completed for the very last card. With that in mind... the model with Tough (side B) "SHOULD" get his card AND his opportunity to recover with his SA Tough. If successful then he/she is the victor. If he/she fails the Tough roll and dies, then apparently with no one left it would be a tie game. Unless special circumstances allow for the negating of the SA Tough, do NOT disallow the player/model his SA.
  14. While I have not implemented "house rules" it has recently been requested of me to do so by a number of players with regards to "negative TL" values. There aren't that many TL systems that degrade to the point of actually having a negative TL value, but the fact that there are some does seem silly the more I hear and think about it. I understand the whole degradation pattern, but like I said... seems silly. So, does anyone have some logical rationale for why negative numbers would not just default to a zero? Has anyone already implemented a house rule to this effect? Any thoughts on the subject would be interesting... thanks.
  15. I wasn't sure about it either Sergei but Superheavies with IFM have proven their worth (at least in my region). Basically they drop IFM's from behind cover as they approach their targets, in effect making up for lack of speed, but also eliminates damage from defensive. Then, once they engage they have equally effective direct fire weaponry. Not to mention, any models wanting to engage them are going to receive defensive fire from the superheavy too. Having "good" IFM capability certainly allows more options for a player. With good tactics and a bit of initiative luck, this strategy works great. With that said though... I would NEVER bank on IFM entirely. The most lethal approach I've seen work time after time is the smartly aggressive, direct fire, concentrated firepower attacks.
  16. Now THIS is the type of statement that SHOULD be in the rulebook to help minimize confusion. If this statement could be placed at the beginning of the Special Abilities section that would be great. A great example is "Stacking Bonuses" on page 75 which specifically states the ruling for equipment combinations. It is very nicely stated and eliminates confusion.
  17. Interesting. I personally expected more models for 750 points... BUT in a sense it seems "realistic" that the number of troops would be limited. I mean, how many pirates or other's could come from a haunted ship? What are the chances of you convincing other players to play a scenario against you where the opponent is trying to raid Razig's ship? Keep in mind that "supposedly" Razig's Crew is getting a makeover sooner or later and should be more appropriate for the current system. My understanding is the current force list is more in line with beta versions. As for waiting on a Black Lightning member to hold events...? I never understood fully why players feel the need to "wait" for someone else to initiate games. That's a problem in my area. Whenever I run events players come out of nowhere to play. In the periods when I can't run events no one plays. Strange. Anyways... take the initiative and start playing some games.
  18. Unfortunately this is an example of there seemingly NOT being a "clearly defined statement" to guide players properly. Just because some SA's say something can be done, does NOT mean that a similar ruling applies to other examples. What's that saying about the word ASSUME? Arse-U-Me... To assume makes and Arse out of U and ME. The "lack of clarity" has bothered many of the players I know enough to disenchant them from the game. "Common Sense" tells me they CAN be stacked, BUT as we all know, common sense is not as common as we think.
  19. I've only collected the warriors and archer skeletons thus far. Admittedly they do seem more "fragile" than any other skeletons (other companies). However, other than that one archer pose mentioned by others, I can't say that there's been any problem. In fact, I was able to bend the models enough to repose some just for variety. It was a scary moment each time I did but none of them broke, and I ended up reinforcing the weak points with gel superglue and/or putty.
  20. Very often this is the result. Still, those Superheavies can soak up a lot of shots that help protect your other units and allow them to do their damage. Also, the Superheavies can dictate zones of control by forcing opponents to alter their plans and movements. I always liked the Rhino but could never justify fielding one UNTIL I dropped both DFM packs and added a Blitz IFM pack. AMAZING what level of "range" it had with that change. Additionally I often swap the TL system for that of the Thunerbird and then occasionally add +1 armor. It's pricey but has always earned it's money. I think the Thunderbird and Emperor are going to change the Warmaster equally as much as the Mantis' did.
  21. Used to be that we (Black Lightning demo members) needed to perform at least 3 events of some kind within the past 3 months to maintain green status. With the changes occurring lately I'm not sure if that has changed.
  22. Okay, I finally had a chance to suggest something more specific than "The Bug Squad." Mantis (Section Leader): +1 Armor, +1 Pilot, Bergholm 22 Breeder (gives an additional damage track of full power capacity) Mantis: Bergholm 22 Breeder Ogre: +1 Armor, +2 Movement Spider: +1 WSO Total Points = 1749 This force hinges on the lead Mantis and the Ogre. I think you'll be surprised how much damage these two can take and dish out. Obviously the 12 inch speed on the Ogre means you should not out race it. Either keep speed with it and/or allow it to play clean up. Use the secondary Mantis as a "meatshield." The Spider should be used as a harrasser/feinter/decoy. Many players do NOT like using Superheavies in Warmasters, but I still think they can be key units. Once you get them into the thick of combat they typically outlast "standard" CAV's. However, there are many points tied up in it and if you favor more speed then swap it out for another unit with upgrades. Personally I favor mostly stock units and minimal upgrades (a balance between the two). I've been successful with that and knowing strengths and weaknesses of all the units on the table and effective tactics. Yet, a few friends of mine swear by the "cheap" units with many upgrades and they've enjoyed success too. As I've said before, I ENJOY fielding units I like, and mostly they are solid units to begin with. Mostly I win, sometimes I get my butt handed to me. What's that saying... "On any given Sunday?" Good luck deciding and don't forget to play smart regardless of what force you take. Make dice rolls and initiative luck as small a factor as possible.
  23. MANTIS is the unit and I would KEEP the missile packs. Rolling 4 dice for offensives & defensive attacks is a huge advantage. I personally have a fun Borsig Spline section (group of models) that I fondly call "The Bug Squad." The Bug Squad is comprised of all CAV's from Borsig Spline but particularly several variations on the Ogre. Actually, the Ogre variations I use are for personal fluff & fun and I now call them the "Beetles." E.G.: Rhino Beetle (swapped top mount for a Rhino Maxim Emperor cannon is cheaper and better for Warmasters though); Emperor Beetle (removed all three weapons and added 2 Emperor guns). The following section is what I "like" to play with, and it either totally rocks or I get hammered. Depends on the initiative, dice rolling and if I play them smart. Spider Scorpion Mantis Beetle (Ogre variant) As I've implied, this is more for fun, but if I were to get serious I'd definitely drop the Scorpion and maybe the Spider and try to wiggle in another Mantis or two.
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