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Super Jag

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Everything posted by Super Jag

  1. Regarding Topic #1... perhaps consider the fact that "reality" cannot always be fully incorporated into a "static" game whereby miniatures on a tabletop full of terrain represent a battle. So, this issue of averaging remaining movements versus just using the new DT level is representative of this conflict. IMHO this ruling makes a lot of sense and has never proven to be broken. Regardless of whether the model took damage before or after the shooting phase movement will have decreased the same amount which is dependent on how many DT's were taken in defensive fire. Frankly, I think any difference would simply be splitting hairs. Regarding Topic #2... I've seen the GKW 14's be used to devastating effects (particularly against Super Heavies). But, each time they did a significant amount of damage or criticals it was directly related to whether or not the player got a target lock AND he got a high-low split [dice roll] in his favor against the target. Outside of that I've not seen anything to suggest that these guns are unbalanced, especially since the unit cost was updated to 455 points. Personally though, I sorta favor the idea that the only CAV with "overdrive" capacity is the Black Lightning Limited Edition Dictator, aka Dictator 2/prototype. Having "overdrive" on more than one "special" unit doesn't make the unit so special or unique anymore.
  2. While I really like the idea of uniformity I find that painting some of my models different caters to my need for variety. I wish I had photos to make it easier for you to see but I'll do the best I can in description. I have one section of Borsig Spline units that is my "BUG SQUAD" and they are as follows: Mantis - Green, Spider -Black Widow markings, Scorpion - North American markings, and my Emperor Beetle (Ogre w/ Emperor Arms/ Rhino guns as current proxy) - painted metallic darkish green like the Stag beetle. My primary force of CAV's is based on the them of "Excalibur's Wrath" and I've used a blue steel w/ lightly drybrushed silver. The blue steel is supposed to infer the invulnerable metal quality of the Excalibur sword and the origins of it being from the lake (blue water?). I figure it's futile to try and hide/camouflage big units like CAV's. My vehicles and infantry (i.e.: ground hugging smaller units) are painted in a camouflaged scheme. Finally, I'm experimenting with different paint jobs. Trying some silver and steel themes.
  3. Hmmm... nice concept there Earthwalker... that definitely has potential. Apparently I'd gotten one track minded and was only thinking to use "super heavy" weapons, but this idea of yours has some merit. I guess I'll have to take another look at similar options. Thanks
  4. I was taught to use a 4x6 foot table and draw cards for deployment choices. Deployment zones are 6 inch squares centered on each of the four table edges. We have always played open terrain. I'm of the belief that a 5x5 foot table would be ideal. Once, by unanimous vote of the players, we played an 8x4 foot table with 6 players on the table. It actually worked out quite well because 3 ended up fighting it out on one end while the other 3 fought it out on the opposite end. Then the final combatants finally merged. Still, I'd prefer to keep it to 4 per table. Hey, gotta try something different every so often right? The important thing was that the players were all informed, gave input and voted on it. Had a single player declined then I'd have switched it to 3 per table on 2 separate tables.
  5. Christopher777... I use and definitely recommend you go to Wal-Mart if you can and get the following spray: ColorPlace interior/exterior Fast Dry spray paint. The front of the can is blue and the back half is white. There are plenty of colors to choose from (recommend Flat Black, Gray or White). The best deal about this is that it costs less than a dollar. Sure it's not technically a "primer" but I've been using it for 8 years now and have NEVER, and I mean NEVER had a problem with it. On the other hand, too often I've used the expensive GW primer spray and it left the models with a gritty texture. Since a spray doesn't get every little spot finish priming the missed locations with a brush on primer. As I mentioned earlier in this topic, I've recently been using an ink wash to fill in the missed spots and it is working great. Just to add a bit of credibility... the tips above are the foundation for me getting hired to paint professional level work both nationally and internationally. I definitely make a bunch more than minimum wage for it. Good luck!
  6. I use both... Spray on primer gets my first vote. Yes there is a tendency to miss hard to get to spots (and if you keep trying to spray there you'll drown the details in paint and have a blob of a mini left over). So that's where the brush on primer comes in. I use the same color as the spray to fill in the few missed spots. Lately I've actually been using an ink to fill in the spots. Seems to be working very well. If you're trying to get something to hold to the porous surface of metal, what better than a liquid based substance, eh?
  7. I've tried the brake fluid... NEVER, EVER AGAIN!!! Firstly it doesn't work as well as people say, secondly it is a real hassle to clean up, thirdly proper disposal is another issue (shouldn't run it down the drain...big no-no). Use fingernail polish remover. You can use some cheap brand too. Then soak it for a while (perhaps 1-3 hours) and use a toothbrush to clean off the paint.
  8. Okay, so does anyone have tips or suggestions for how to paint a really stunning, realistic cockpit? I'd like as many variations as possible so all advice is appreciated. I know how to paint these but am looking to do something better.
  9. Yeah, I know... maybe this should be in the painting forum but here seemed appropriate too. I know how to paint cockpits, but I'm wondering if anyone can suggest how to paint a really stunning, realistic looking cockpit. Any tips are appreciated.
  10. Thanks Cher... sounds like we're on about the same page of thinking. Great photo links too... and DANG that's a B.O.B (Big Ole Beetle) crawling up that arm. I'd been looking through insect books/photos too and recently it occurred to me that an alternate to the beetle concept I'd initially posted, perhaps some ESM unit would be feasible. Essentially a small insect, relatively harmless, but fast and I'd make it an electronics specialist. So, now to brainstorm how to convert one of the ESM or Scout units into a small insect like a "grasshopper" or "ladybug" or "tick" or ... yadda yadda.
  11. Yeah, I've seen the photos of other Scorpion models on a website before (mil-net I think?) Very nice work. Now THAT'S thinking outside of the box!!! I like your thinking Frosch... probably a good thing it isn't legal... LOL Well, my first hopes were to use a completely different CAV than the other three I've already used (Scorpion, Mantis, Spider). Next, I'd like to use mostly Borsig Spline parts if not the primary unit itself. Unfortunately that leaves me with two models to work with: Ogre & Wyvern. Then to alter it to a "bug" theme I'd want to match some insect to the model and make modifications to match it. Barring this, my second choice is to use one of the same models as before and just modify it. Thanks for the input... please keep on suggesting any other "bugs" you can think of as a modification. Oh, and please do give your opinion on what real world insect the unit would match.
  12. So, I have painted up 3/4 of a Warmaster section of CAV's with "BUGS" or "INSECTS" as the theme. Considering Borsig Spline already provides a great starting point, as you can guess, I have already painted up the following CAV's in the following pattern: 1. Mantis - Greenish w/ tannish markings as the Praying Mantis 2. Scorpion - Light brownish w/ blackish, dark brownish markings as with the North American Scorpion 3. Spider - Glossy black (may paint red Black Widow markings or the brilliant light yellowish markings of the Orb spider) So, here's my problem... Since Borsig Spline only has these three "insect" named CAV's, I'm left without the 4th member of this all bug section (mostly because I want to have 4 distinctly different bugs). Here's what I've thought of so far as a possible CAV modification to fill the spot: Option #1. Borsig Spline "Rhino Beetle" - Basically an Ogre minus the 3 Herker 34 PBG's, adding the Rhino's two Maxim 1 GRC's. The idea... Big tough lumbering powerful beetle. Option #2. Borsig Spline "Emperor Beetle" - Same as above except the two weapons utilize the Emperors two RKW GRC's. This is my preference but the model or parts have yet to be released. Option #3. Borsig Spline "Spider Ant" - Based on the mimicking spider... not sure what weapon variations other than dropping the Naftan 66 GC. Not ideal since it is a base model I'm already using. Option #4. Some converted creation utilizing the Wyvern... no clue what though. If any of you have suggestions on some type of modification and/or what type of insect to pattern the hybrid CAV from please let me know. Your help would be appreciated. Currently I'm strongly leaning towards option # 1 or # 2 above. I'm really stoked about putting this section to use because it has a very cool, unique look (I've really put forth the paint effort to match the actually insect patterns). For anyone feeling stagnant about painting CAV's this has been a re-motivator for me to paint miniatures and the theme has me excited. I can't wait to bust these out against my opponents. Of course, with my dice rolling luck they'll probably get SQUASHED in 4-6 seconds flat... know what I mean?
  13. Super Jag

    Command distance

    To my knowledge there is no command distance restrictions to CAV sections. I sure hope not too. We've never played it that way... I don't recall ever reading it in the rules either. Hmmm... sounds like an interesting story behind your signature Marlfox?
  14. Uh Yeah... I've seen these decals at their website and there are some very cool designs. Big bonus... these guys have been VERY helpful too. I highly recommend just on a customer service level. Lucky for me our local game store is now going to be stocking some of their decals. Tito aka Super Jag
  15. Personally I've always raised an eyebrow to the notion that a unit that just finished it's turn may not have had enough power to fire all weapons because it moved (i.e.: damaged unit). But, during defensive fire on the very next turn by an opponent allows the unit to fire virtually ALL weapons, in many cases, because as a target it is now deemed to be stationary. Oh well, a minor conflict that I'm willing to ignore... Frankly, I really enjoy the concept of "Defensive Fire" and agree that mechanically it does work quite well. DF really allows CAV and Reaper to stand out... IMO.
  16. CONAN... What is best in life? Ahh yes, anything to do with Conan (the Barbarian, not that late night talk show guy of course) is worth looking into... uh, exception... Conan the Destroyer... agghhh... what were they thinking??? Darn shame!!! Would be interesting to find out the potential of this new Conan RPG. Uh, can someone provide the website for those of us who are too lazy to look it up ourselves? Thanks.
  17. Super Jag


    Open terrain gaming amongst everyone around our area. Most of us don't care for the idea of hex terrain games/grids. Mostly we can't stand the premeasuring that hex terrain inherently lends itself to. Counting out hexes from here to there and so on just slows down the game. Triangulating your measurements with visual references and trained eye adds a challenging yet exciting element to open terrain. Also, when's the last time real combat of any sort took place on a grid? So, the open terrain seems to have a more natural feel to it which enhances the feel of the game. IMHO
  18. Have you tried out any of the JR miniatures "industrial complex" terrain yet? We do get a very good discount on those items as BLO's and all the gamers in our area have been impressed (and I haven't even painted them yet). You may want to double up on the amount you think you'd need though. A 4x6 table is alot of space to fill. Another idea we are planning to do sooner or later is have alot of water on the board. Either a big lake (play around or through it) or big river or lot's of pockets of water to navigate (like a swamp would actually be). Blue felt works great for this and it's cheap and simple. I even found felt cloth that looks watery for cheap at Wal-Mart. There are so many things you can do. Personally I get my ideas from watching sci-fi movies or war movies or playing video games. Unfortunately, not enough time to bring all those ideas to the table... boo-hoo Good luck...
  19. LOL... Oh Jeneki... that is just TOO FUNNY!!! Thanks for the laughs!!! So the question begs... would you mount that cannon on Pee-Wee Panther or Big Daddy Rhino?
  20. Super Jag

    CAV Boxed Sets

    Having played other games that were "faction" based (e.g.: Chronopia, 40K, etc.) I believe that it allowed me to concentrate my money, painting time, and strategies to a specific group/army. That to me was both good and bad. Good in the sense that once I collected my particular army I was done buying (yeah) and painting (boo-hoo). It was also bad in the sense that I really like variety and so I was always looking at my opponent's armies' and wishing I had what they had. Unfortunately I couldn't get away with just buying a little bit. So, I was forced into buying and painting an entire new army or doing without. For CAV, I currently don't have that problem because I do buy just the unit's I prefer, but I end up buying multiples of those units. So, I'd have to say I end up buying just as much as if I were to have bought 1 of everything. This way I get what I like from any UCOR and still only have one army to build, essentially. Many games companies have done well taking this route. I'm not sure if it would be good or bad for Reaper to take this route too. If they did I think I'd prefer they set it up as "optional campaign guidelines." Our local store owner is working on a campaign whereby players get a certain number of points each turn (week) to resupply. He's come up with some rules that actually give a player extra points for limiting yourself to certain UCORS. He figures you'd get better contracts through UCORS for loyalty to them. Makes sense and it gives a bit of incentive to do that especially when the bonus points increase slightly with fewer and fewer UCORS used. I think his format is going something like this: 4 or more UCOR units: 100 points per turn 3 UCOR units: 110 points 2 UCOR units: 120 1 UCOR unit: 130 I'm sure my numbers are off a bit but that's essentially his plan for the campaign coming up. Considering it's a 12,000 point campaign, players are probably going to have the same number of units regardless of whether they use multiple UCORS or not. 6 one way, 1/2 a dozen the other, eh?
  21. Super Jag

    CAV Boxed Sets

    Things that make you go Hmmmmm... Darn good idea there Spartan6. Personally I think it would have it's best chance of success if the game took a twist in the direction of UCOR wars and/or racial conflicts. Some fluff behind it and perhaps some clear identity. For example, in many fantasy games there are humans, Orcs, Elves, etc. etc. with little intermingling. If that segregation occured in CAV with the UCORS then players could be more enticed to select forces/units according to UCOR and background. Otherwise, the fact that you can individually buy blisters allows players to pick and choose from a multitude of UCORS and if they so desire can still predominantly play with a certain group only. Keep up the good ideas, you never know when one might become a box office smash.
  22. Fooey on the old Dictator. Like Kamut said, take a Wight instead. Personally, when I want to take out the big nasties (as you put it) then you're talking about a Warmaster mentality. With that in mind... the '70 Dictator is a great choice, especially if you can get the range right and pop your opponent just outside of their defensive fire range with your overcharged Gkw 14's. I saw two '70 Dictators annihilate a Rhino without getting scratched because they both tagged him from beyond the Rhino's 32 guns. The Mantis, while I've seen it used only twice, looks to be a threat with those 4 shots. For me, regardless of preferences, the winning formula has to be getting right in the opponents face with units that dish out pain. I don't mind taking some hits but when my units hit you, you're gonna feel it all the way into next week. This is what I consider when putting my Warmaster forces together: 1. Enough power to move and fire at least one weapon on the last couple DT's 2. Preferably base armor of 3, and/or upgrade the pilot 3. Primary guns that do base damage of at least +5. 4. Do what it takes to get Target Lock!!! This one is huge because if you get it you're probably averaging +9 with your weapons depending on CAV choice. Average armor is about 4 so you've got the advantage. 5. Gang bang one unit when possible... limits defensive fire threat and almost guarantees you'll destroy or cripple a CAV. Beyond those basics I typically kick butt because I know my strengths and my opponent's weaknesses. E.G.: Dictator's and Assassins are front loaded so if you cripple it beyond 3 DT then it's not really a threat so reprioritize the other targets if necessary. If you've got a Mantis (4 weapons) and a Duelist (2 weapons) then I'll probably try to avoid head to head shootouts with the Mantis because you're getting too many dice rolls for me to risk whereas the Duelist is less risky for me. Obviously there's a myriad of strategies but the more you play the better you'll get. Put a little time into crunching some numbers and you'll start to get some clarity on tactics and the types of units you prefer that fit your likes and situational needs. I hope that helps.
  23. Unlike Games Workshop Space Marines... this is a "General Sci-Fi" topic that I actually am interested in. I still say poopy on those Space Marines. Man you'all have made alot of great observations of the New Battlestar Galactica. What a bunch of insightfully smart people. After reading all your comments on this topic I feel sorta dumb stating the following opinion I have on this mini series: Hmmmmmm... okay... that was interesting... not enough robotic looking cylons... but the Vipers (Mark II's) were cooler than the originals. Uh, what the heck... I am very disappointed with Starbuck, Boomer, and Apollo. If they wanted to integrate women more then do it, but for crying out loud don't change the premise of those original characters. Still, the show got my attention enough that I'd be willing to watch anything else they follow it up with, at least until they really goof it up.
  24. Most excellent work!!! I'll definitely have to run this out in my area. Thanks for your efforts on this project and sharing it all with us.
  25. Yeah, yeah, sure, sure... this may be a "general sci-fi" forum, but the last time I checked this is a "REAPER" website. If you think something should be changed about Games Workshop product, don't you think you should be posting on a "Games Workshop" forum/website? At least there someone important within Games Workshop is more likely to take notice, eh? Then maybe some changes will be made. Frankly, it probably does no harm to discuss other games on a Reaper website/forum. So really, go right ahead and knock yourselves out. For the record: yeah, Space Marines in numerous ways need LOT's of resculpting. But like I said before... who cares? The only relevance this has here is that another resculpt overhaul to another 40K army would justify the ridiculous pricing of GW product thus convincing me more of the fact that Reaper is more reasonable and affordable in comparison. But far be it for me to stand up for Reaper on there own website. Of course, now that I think of it that's not my job, so I digress. Trust me... there's no "hate" here. I fully recognize the accomplishments of many game companies particularly GW. They wouldn't be #1 if they weren't doing something right. Enjoy the rest of your discussion.
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