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Posts posted by bojesphob

  1. Got it figured out. I got a bottle of the Guilliman Blue by GW, and realized it was WAY too blue for what I wanted to do. So, I mixed a little bit with some Nihilakh Oxide (which is a technical paint by GW that you can use to put a patina on brass or copper), and it turned out pretty well. I'll be posting a finished pic in the Show Off area shortly :)

    • Like 1
  2. I decided to redo the horns on the white head, as I found a really good tutorial on using successive washes to paint horns and I liked it WAY better than the way the white and blue above looked. And, I had sort of got lazy on the spikes on the back, so I am going to redo those and the claws using this same technique! Also, redid the eyes some on a couple of the heads, although they're not quite 100% finished yet.






    Again, sorry the pictures are so terrible. I tried using my DSLR to get better pics, but I think it's having issues as I couldn't get it to actually adjust the light input even though I was adjusting the aperture settings :( Oh well, maybe once i get my new phone I'll be able to take better pictures...

    • Like 8
  3. 13 hours ago, kristof65 said:

    I'm not sure. 

    I plan on picking up a bunch of the oozes, and trying out all of the different colors on the clear before I do my Kyphrixis, but that won't be until after the B4 KS is over. 

    I think it might be too strong unless you thin it, however, my understanding is that you don't want to thin the Tamiya Clears with water - you should use the Tamiya Thinner. 


    Ah. I did just watch a video on youtube that compared the Tamiya with a few other brands of washes/colors that do about the same thing, and I may end up getting the Guilliman Blue glaze from GW for my Kyphrixis. I have the green and red glazes, and they are WAY weaker than the full blown washes, and easy to water down if need be, but wanted to see if there was something comparable that might work better.



    What I'm going to do with Kyphrixis when I get it is I will first test on the base what i end up trying to do. Main reason being I'm going to paint the base as rocks and leave Kyprixis clear, so I can paint over whatever I do as a test. I get Kyphirixis in the mail today (YAY!) but have to order whatever glaze/wash I am going to use since I don't have a local store that has paints unfortunately.

    • Like 1
  4. So, I used games workshop washes on my translucent ones (will put in pics momentarily), but I have a Kyphrixis clear coming in the mail, and I want to do a sort of ice dragon for it, with some bluish colors as the wash and then drybrush some white on the edges to make it look sort of cold/cracked/etc. Would the Tamiya Clear Blue be a good choice for that, or would it be too extreme for a clear translucent? A watered down of it? I would use the GW washes, but those I think will be WAY too powerful.


    These are the ones I did with GW washes already:






    • Like 2
  5. I got a bit further last night. Have the stone base painted gray for the base color, teeth and mouths have been worked through, and claws have been painted (both on the hands/feet and the wings). I just have to decide a few things on the horns on the head.... So, 2 questions for input:

    1) Does anyone have a good tutorial on how to do horns? I've thought about doing them the way I normally do, but that's typically flat and I want these to fit the rest of the mini (ie, I want it to be a little better than my normal paint job)

    2) Should I repaint the horns on the white head to match what I do on the others? I thought I liked what I did with them originally, but the more I look at it, the less I like the drybrushed white on blue look....


    Anyhow, here are today's pics :)









    So, at the moment, I have the base to finish, and the horns to figure out.... Then I can try to do some decent pics of it!

    • Like 8
  6. Thanks! So, since I wasn't the only one to like how the wing underside turned out, I went full bore of the weekend and did the rest of the wing membranes this way :)

    Spots painted, and washed:



    While the wash was drying, I also painted up the spikes on the back. Once I get them washed and drybrushed, I'll get a better pic of them.



    The backs of the wings and the inside of the other are now drybrushed as well :)



    As you can kind of see, I also did spots on the underbelly and drybrushed there as well. This includes the bottoms of the arms and the fleshy parts of the back of the legs and inside of them as well. I believe I also did the section of the tail right behind the legs the same way.


    I decided to do something a little different with the tail. Since a lot of reptiles I found in my searches for my ideal skin pattern had ringed colors on their tail, I decided I would do the same with this. Now, I still have to do the rust areas of it,




    Now, I still have a bit left to do (the base of the Drakar, the rest of the tail, the mouths and teeth, the talons on the wings, the horns, the spikes on the back, and redoing of the eyes on the heads), but this is how it looks standing with the main base section :)



    Last but not least, I screwed up one of the eyes on the green head, and decided to make him a bit more unique and added a battle scar. Also painted some more detail in the eyes of the red head:


    • Like 9
  7. I was able to work on it a little bit before bed last night after the wee one was asleep, and got the first part of the wing washed and then drybrushed. I've only done the underside of the one wing so far - I was pretty sure this route was going to give me the look I wanted, but wasn't 100% sure so this was more of a test than anything. I do like it, and will do the rest of the wing membrane this way! Anyhow, I used the Gryphonne Sepia wash, then did a dry brush with the same Pallid Flesh from GW.






    So, are my instincts here right? Does that give it a subtle layered/dynamic look?


    Next step (after painting the rest of the wings this way) will be to paint the bone tips on the wings, which i think I'm going to do the same corrosion/rust that the rest of the body has.

    • Like 11
  8. Thanks guys :) I forgot to mention in the main body section that after I did the drybrush of Ryza Rust that I then did a VERY light drybrush of chainmail type silver on the very top edges of the scales to give it a sort of metallic look. I'm really glad I went that way with the body, as it really gives it a dynamic look that reminds me a lot of that horned lizard!

    • Like 3

  9. Then painted the other heads. Red for the main top one, green for the second highest (two tone, darker green on top and a lighter green on bottom). Then, gave them a wash of Baal Red (GW wash) and Thrakka Green (also a GW wash).


    Bottom head I did a darker blue (about the same color as the white head's horns), with a lighter blue on bottom, then washed that with a blue wash.



    A little closer up look at the heads as they dried



    Then did some dry brush build ups on the Red, Green, and Blue heads. I mixed in some turqoise on the blue head to give it a more aquatic look, and the green and red I also did some glazes right before the lightest highlight.


    Did a first pass on the eyes, and painted some of the mouths/teeth


    Still trying to figure out my phone camera LOL




    Next up was the main body. For this one, I REALLY wanted something inspired by real live reptiles. So, after searching google images of different reptile skin patterns, I came across an image for a Greater Mountain Horned Lizard. It had a sort of rust looking skin, with some unusual patterns of color in between the scales. Now, what I went with isn't exacty the same, it did give me the inspiration for what I ended up doing :)

    So, GW makes some really good technical paints. One combo I REALLY like (especially for vehicles) is Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust. Typhus has the look of metal that's been painted but has begun to corrode and has bled out the color of the paint but hasn't started showing iron oxide yet. It also has a grainyness to it that makes for an ideal texture to drybrush against. Ryza Rust is a dry brush technical that's they developed to be used in combo with Typhus. It drybrushes EXTREMELY easily, and has a great looking rust quality to it. So, I did a test area on Ma'al's shoulder, and subsequently loved it.


    If you notice in that pic, I started adding a red on the bottom edges of the scales. This is my method for adding a little more depth to this type of technique. Most of the red goes away when I drybrush on the Ryza rust, but just enough shows that it changes the feel of it.


    Here it is with the full base after getting the underwing coated and the underbelly.


    As the above shows, I also am doing the wings and underbelly/fleshy parts of arms and legs in a graying tan. I also am putting some red as an underlying color as well, then washing in Gryphonne Sepia.

    I also ended up doing some of the Typhus/Ryza up a little into the colors of the necks so that it does a tranisition between the two. This way there isn't such a harsh breaking point between the two.


    After doing some addition of red for the underbelly, both under the armor plates and spots on the fleshy parts, then the wash of Sepia, I then used a GW Pallid Flesh to drybrush on top of that.


    Then, using other reptiles as inspiration again, on the wing flaps, I created a sort of spotted pattern of the same red, that is small next to the wing, but then gets larger out towards the outsides. Then, once they got big enough, I then put a spot of a green/yellow/tan color (from the Panzer armor paint set from Flames of War) in the middle. I will then do a wash of Sepia over this, then drybrush with the Pallid Flesh over top of that once it dries. This will hopefully tone down the spots to where they are barely visible, but will give it some depth beyond just the grayish tan, sepia and drybrush, very similar to what it did for the underbelly.


    That's where I stand now. Still have quite a bit left to do on it, and my painting time is very minimal at the moment, but hopefully this gives you an idea of where I'm going with it :)



    • Like 16
  10. It's been a LONG time since I posted on here... Probably at least 2 years... But, I've kept up with the kickstarters and although I missed Bones 3, I am definitely in on Bones 4! Anyhow, once I saw Ma'al Drakar from Bones 3, I KNEW I had to have it! Someone on eBay posted one before they were available through retail, and was able to get one earlier than I had been planning on. So, the past few months I've been working on it as I have free time, and have been taking pictures as I went along. Figured I'd post my progress and show some of my techniques.

    I apologize for the low quality of the images. My workspace has terrible lighting for pictures, and my phone just doesn't photograph well in lower light.

    Anyhow, unlike many I've seen WIP pics for here, I actually fully assembled mine before I started painting. There really aren't very many places that will be tight, and I have an easier time visualizing what I want to paint when I have it assembled.



    Funny story with this: My 2 year old came outside when I was assembling and aske me what this was. I told her it was a dragon, and her reply was "It's CUTE!" LOL She then saw it again inside when I brought it in and said "Daddy, it's a dragon, it's awesome!"

    Anyhow, then tried green stuffing some of the gaps and cleaning mold lines. Unfortunately, the gap on the tail was too much for the green stuff apparently because when it dried it kind of shrunk back into the gap and you can see it. That and I missed a few mold lines (major one I missed was the one across the stomach/hip). Not too noticeable, but of course it will bug me.


    Next came priming. I know I didn't have to prime, but I typically start with a black base for everything that I paint so it makes it a lot easier to just use a primer to start off with. I use Dupli-color sandable car primer: dries relatively quickly and is EXTREMELY difficult to overspray with and coats very evenly.


    After hitting the small areas that I somehow managed to miss with the primer with a black paint, I started with the front base part. Darker gray (mechanicum gray from GW, if I remember correctly). I excluded the dragon faces and feet so that I can paint those seperately.


    When dried, hit up with a black wash (GW Badab Black, I believe I used)


    Still wet

    After that dried, a drybrush of a lighter gray.


    Then, I painted the faces and feet with a tan (can't remember the name of it off the top of my head), then washed using Gryphonne Sepia wash (GW, discontinued unfortunately :( )


    Another drybrush of even lighter gray after that dryed, then dry brush of a lighter tan over the faces and feet.



    Continued in next post....


    On to the heads! I wanted a frost dragon to be the head with the curved horns: reminded me of Loki from Avengers so it seemed to fit. Started with a white (GW Ceramite White, I think). Took a couple of coats to get it to my liking


    Then decided to do a sort of icy looking horns for him. So, started off with a darker blue (but not too dark)


    Then, to do a wash on the white head, I decide to use a watered down Privateer Press P3 Troll Underbelly (not sure if that's specifically the right one or not, but will check).


    Did a test on the ear with the wash


    I liked the look, so I completed the head. Unfortunately, right now the photos don't do the white head justice. Once I get finished painting it, I will try to get better pics to show it all off :)


    I then did the seconde head with black with gray highlights. That one isn't quite as exciting, since that's pretty much a standard way of painting the black (it will show up better in later pics)


    Dry brushed the horns with a white, and the rest of the head as well to bring back out some of the details, then painted the eyes.


    Another view with the heads and the base that's close to being done




    • Like 17
  11. @gamgen: unfortunately, no, no WIP pictures. I didn't have a lot of time when I was working on him, so I was doing a little bit of work here and there, and never really had time to take many pics.


    As to the gloss, I think it's a product of the combination of the washes that I was using, and the lighting as well. I haven't sealed it yet, though, and I normally gloss varnish minis, then matte spray them, but I haven't decided if I want to use 2 tubs of gloss varnish to cover it. It's really only going to be a display piece, so I may not seal it at all.. still thinking about it.


    @Rogue1138: That's the look I was hoping to achieve :)

  12. Thanks guys :)


    The bone color was actually pretty easy to come up with, just a LOT of paint and making sure I hit absolutely every part was tedious. I took GW Rakarth Flesh for the base, then washed in a slightly watered down GW Sepia wash, then a slightly watered down GW Agrax Earthshade. The Sepia gave it a more brownish tint, but didn't really fill in the small details very well, and the earthshade picked out the finder details like the joints and the pits in the bones.

    • Like 1
  13. Since I only got in on the first KS after it ended (got in with the higher amount afterwards), and have pledged already, how does funding work? Do the payments come through on Saturday when the KS ends, or do we confirm our pledge which then submits the payment? I would gather the former, but just want to be certain so that I don't go out and spend the money and have this come out as well.

  14. While I love the paint job, this is going to be an odd thing to say, I know, but am I the only one that gets the impression that the body of the miniature is sculpted to have female attributes?? For some reason, the head with the beard looks so strange on the body to me, like it doesn't belong.... Don't know, though, I could be going crazy (or am crazy?).

  15. Good starting point, the skin needs work but everything else looks great. I normally suggest thinning your highlights with water or another medium and put them on small amounts at a time.

    the highlight color looks I dunno maybe like it's the wrong color but a good trick is to use a drop of your base and 1-3 of your highlight color and thin as above, it will keep the change from being so harsh as it is on the ronin's face/neck.

    I think the harshness on the ronin's face is because it was drybrushed, at least that's how it appears.


    Something to help out with that, Paintergeist, maybe use a wash like GW's Reikland Flesh wash to blend the colors a little bit in the flesh areas. Water it down a little bit (since you don't want to go overboard with the skin), maybe 1-1 or 2-1 water to wash. If it tones it down too much, you can always take a watered down highlight and hit the raised areas again after the wash.

  16. I made this picture a little bigger... Anyhow, I was able to get Nethy matte varnished, and thought I'd forward on the results per request! I did re gloss coat the fleshy areas to make that part at least shiny :B): Though, I did just notice that the inside of the wing there still has a little bit of gloss showing through, so I may have to hit that part again with the matte...



    • Like 4
  17. I scaled them down to around 800x600, so that they weren't too big on normal screens. If they don't show up big enough, I can always make the matte varnished pictures to ~1024x768 when I take them.


    If they don't even look to be about 800x600, try the direct files:









  18. The adventuring party really did a number on him. But he'll show them by rising up in all his glossy finish and vanquishing them with his Dullcote Breath. :;):



    Overall, nicely done.


    The colors are vibrant, especially the raw red meat of the dragon. That said, perhaps going back in with some darker red around the edges would give the meat less of a "coated in blood" look. The eyes are what struck me most when I saw it, they look like the lids were torn away. Freaky cool.

    Given that he looks like "the party just won the fight only to have him rise from the dead right as they celebrate" ... I think he needs some blast damage from what the mages did to him to blow chunks of him away. Add in some seared edges to the scales, skin and bone visible. Perhaps also some blackened streaks on his scales from the lightning bolts the druid piled on him from above.


    Post a photo of the matte finish when you get it done. It'll be a huge difference from shiny Nethy to matte Nethyrmaul.


    Bring on Kaladrax!


    Yeah, the gloss is a bit much, but I gloss coat to protect the paint. For some reason, I had issues with the paint rubbing off in a few places as I painted, which didn't happen much on the smaller guys.


    Anyhow, not sure if I'd be able to do much justice with doing battle damage, though I might think about it.


    As to the eyes, yeah, I think those are my favorite details! ::): It was an extremely easy effect to do, as well. Painted the eyeball white, then put in green for the iris, then black and then gray over that for a glazed over pupil look. Of course, the areas around it were green. I then took the Baal Red glaze from GW (not the current glaze, but the previous one), and glazed around the outside edge of the eyeball. Once it dried, I knew it was the right way to go!

    • Like 1
  19. Been a little while since I was able to paint, but here are a couple new ones. I haven't done the bases yet, as I can't decide if I want to keep them as is or do something more complex. Sorry about a couple of the pics, for some reason my camera doesn't always do well.


    Ragnaros the Evil Warrior:




    Mangu Timor:





    Black Orc Hero:




    Battleguard Golem (looks way better than these pictures show....):




    And Anvall Thricedamned:


    I used my dark flesh technique for Anvall. Worked pretty well on him :)

    • Like 9
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