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Posts posted by bojesphob

  1. I like what you did. I'm happy to have 2 of this one.


    On the base is a white line. What is the reason for it?


    How big is the base? I like the base job. I still need to spend money on basing material...



    Lemme get this straight - that's a rush job???!!!


    You need only 5 or 6 colors and few washes or quickshade. This griffon has nearly no special details. And the feathers should be very wash/ink friendly.


    So it should be possible to get him ready in 2-3 hours without highlights and drying time.

    The lines on the base (there are actually two) are to help show what the front facing arc of the model is. This helps with the game mechanics within Warmachine and Hordes, so that you can tell if a model is facing another model, and if it's within its shooting/close combat attack radius.


    James, definitely a good piece, especially considering you painted it quickly! I REALLY love this model (I've got mine painted as well), and definitely agree that the razorwing griffon in Circle has a lot to be desired... I mean, how the heck are feathers going to hold up metal blades?? I do like the normal griffon, to a certain degree, though. (should state that I have probably one of almost every Circle model out so far, except for the Woldwrath).

  2. I got the list of stuff I used - of course, I based the skeletons and the ground in Abbadon Black from GW first (no primer):

    the base for the spirit wall is P3 battlefield brown base with the drybrush was P3 Bootstrap Leather.


    The bones were based in GW Rarkarth Flesh, then inked with the old GW Gryphonne Sepia, and when that dried, washed with Agrax earthshade. I then did a light drybrush with the old Bleached Bone paint.

  3. I love the spirit wall!!!! Would you mind listing colors used and the procedure you used? It really is stunning!


    The process for the transparent green is in this post:



    As to the rest, I'll take a look when I get home from work, as I don't remember the names of the paints I used specifically, but I do remember what colors (does that even make sense? LOL).

  4. You have a solid base there. I would say say that your next step should be to try taking it up some. Try doing a VERY light drybrush of a tan color on the rat to bring out some of the detail of the fur. Would be an easy way to pick out the fur and would only take a minute or two to do. I'm not the greatest at painting bone colors, so I can't really give you good tips about that, but maybe take and put a couple of other layers on it to bring out the details some. Definitely a good start.

  5. Maybe I should have just called this "my running painted bones" thread LOL


    Anyhow, a few more that I've gotten finished recently :)







    The Spirit Wall (or whatever they call it LOL) - I saw someone had painted the skeletons in the wall, so I did the same:




    And then the lizard warrior:


    • Like 8
  6. Foxden, that's the reason I did mine the way I did, to try to keep a fair amount of the translucency showing through. The wash that I did doesn't eliminate the translucent effect, it just darkens it a little bit in the recesses. Then, the drybrushing is done lightly, only hitting the raised areas. If you look closely at the difference between the picture with the white box underneath, you'll see that the green is lighter, because the white is showing through, and when I put it on my desk with the dark brown behind it, it darkened up a bit. I'm sure if you don't want to do the wash, and you go with just doing some drybrushing over the raised areas, you could get a similar result, the only difference would be that there wouldn't be much contrast between the lower, undrybrushed area, and the drybrush.

  7. Do the clear figures have a smooth surface. It seems like there's no transition from the orange to the White wash which leads me to believe the translucent figures don't have as much tooth as the regular bones figures.


    No, definitely not. The only smooth surface on the large elemental is the face area (if you can call it a face). But, I should explain that I didn't want to lose the transparency of the mini in process of painting it, that's why there isn't a smooth transition between the white in the lower levels, and the drybrused yellow, then orange that you see. I had thought about just priming it white, then painting up, but I have been trying to decide if I want to put a flickering LED into it LOL and if it was fully painted, you wouldn't be able to see the light.


    I'm almost finished with my first minor conversion with Bones. I took the Trista (http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/previews/sku-down/77094), removed her shield, and took the shield from Almaran (http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/previews/a-z/77058) and put it on her. Even though her armor has the wolf iconography, I think that shield goes REALLY well with her mini! I've got a few minor touchups to do on her, and she's done. I also painted up the spirit wall with the skeletons in it, so I'll post those when I get a chance to take pictures :)

  8. A few new completed minis.

    First is the wraith that I posted in the "how are you going to handle painting the green/red minis" thread:



    Then, the griffon (my favorite to paint so far!):



    And the Large Fire Elemental... Not sure if I like how it turned out. It reminds me of fire, but somehow I'm not sure if the white really went into the recesses as well as the ink did for the green ones.



    • Like 13
  9. I had a few that sprung back immediately, but a couple bent back to what they were before I did the boil. Looks like I'm going to have to redo them, and do the push them beyond the elasticity point thing. That's ok though, because I forgot to boil the wings for Nethyrmaul (the tips look like gnarled roots), so I was going to have to do a second boil anyway.

    • Like 1
  10. I found that if you use the GW paint straight for the base with no watering down, it doesn't run off at all. To be honest, though, I've just been using Abbadon Black, so I haven't based in any other colors, but painting it straight from the bottle on works well enough, and you don't lose any details in doing so. From there, you can base with other watered down colors. Not sure if you are wanting to try it that way, but I've had success with it so far.


    I also used the dark green wash from GW on the green area:


    So can you apply GW washes directly on cleaned up Bones?


    Excellent work everyone, and thanks for the step-by-step instructions!!!


    Not sure about the white bones, but I actually did this process with the other specter, and it seems to hold up well. I don't think it would work very well if you watered down the wash, though. It seems to stick just enough to work with the translucent plastic.

  12. I keep wondering about how the 3D printing is going to affect companies like Reaper. If you can buy a 3D printer that lets you print the minis in as much detail as what casting them would, and you don't have to buy plastic molds ever again, would that precipitate still making metal minis, and even doing casts? I know the 3D printing isn't quite to the point yet where it would be good for stuff like Bones, but who knows, soon it probably will be....

  13. This is the method I used for painting it up (step by step):


    1) put black down as the base color for the ground, the sword, and the tombstone (be very careful, as I came very close to over brushing and had to quickly clean up spots that went into the places I wanted green). I also used the dark green wash from GW on the green area:



    2) When that dried, I painted my base colors on the sword, the ground, and the tombstone, again, being very careful to avoid getting those colors on the areas I wanted to keep green:




    3) Then I threw a black wash on the tombstone and the sword (Badab Black from GW), and a brown wash (Agrax Earthshade) on the ground. I also drybrushed a green that's a bit lighter than the washed green of the mini:



    4) I then drybrushed lighter gray on the tombstone, a lighter brown on the ground, and an even lighter green on the ghostly body, along with adding in some green for the runes on the sword, and based the skull:



    5) I then washed the sword around the runes in a light green wash, washed the skull, and then used a little bit of drybrushed white around the extreme edges of the ghostly figure (I put it on my desk so that the darker green showed through a little better:




    I still need to highlight the skull, but I think it turned out quite well!

    • Like 17
  14. This is how I am going to try to handle them:

    For the fire models, I'll take a red ink/wash, and wash the entire mini to create a little depth to them. For the specters, I will use a dark green ink/wash. After they dry, with the fire, I am going to dry brush white around the areas that would probably end up being the hotter part of the flames, and then build out with yellow, then orange, then red. This will leave the clear plastic showing, but will still have the appearance of the different colors of the flame. With the Specters, I will then drybrush a medium green, then a light green. The bases I will prime with brush on primer, then paint as grass and such. Then, for the specter with the sword, I will prime the tombstone and sword, and then paint them normally. I'm actually planning on attempting this over the weekend, so if I actually get an example painted, I'll post the results.

    • Like 4
  15. What effect? Do you mean the blade, or the base connected to the handle? If you mean the base part, that was Screaming Bell GW metallic, washed with with GW Agrax Earthshade wash, old GW Dwarf Bronze to highlight, and then a wash of the darker green GW wash (Coelia Greenshade I think it was).

  16. I had waited until I actually got my pledge before attempting to paint up a Bones mini. Now that I have them, I've tested on a couple. I don't know if I like how the eye monster turned out, but the other two seem to have turned out ok. I think I need to add a little bit of white lining to the symbols on the parchment to make them stand out a little more...




    Comments welcome. Sorry for the bluriness of the eye monster and the warrior, I'm still trying to tweak my camera's functions.

    • Like 20
  17. One of our local supermarkets (Remke-Biggs) has a bin for putting in plastic bags. They recycle them into park benches, since apparently that type of plastic is perfect for that sort of thing I guess. Unfortunately, I was so stoked about receiving my pledge that I opened all the baggies while at work and just threw them in my work garbage bag :(

  18. I am not a fan of the pose for the wings, or the obscene length of the tail (since it drags on the table) but oh well.


    Dry fitting is a must. The pelvis bones will go in either direction. And if you have them on the wrong side, your back legs will not line up. and then you have to try and get the super glue to break without hurting Kaly. In the end, it is good.

    I didn't think I'd like the placement of the wings before I assembled it. I actually like it now, as it seems like he's about to start to fly and he's prepping his wings to take off. The hind leg that's sticking out makes him look a little like he's a dog marking his territory, but that's easy to ignore. I agree with the length of the tail, though, so I actually took out one of the pieces, and it's a fair amount shorter. Just had to trim up some of the part of the end of the tail that goes into the other piece, but that took no more than 3 minutes to do.

  19. Jasper, I didn't get any of the non boxed extras (I only had Kaladrax and Nethyrmaul), but with how they were all packaged, my guess would be that they are bagged together with the other ones from the same add on. My vampire was in the Vampire box, and then the boxes for Nethy and Kaly were stacked on top of that box, with some air pocket packaging padding adding in to keep them from moving. More than likely, if you had There Be Dragons or Orcpocalypse, you would have the Vampire box, and then a bag for There Be Dragons, and one for Orcpocalypse.

  20. Aren't they separate pieces though? I wonder if the socket would allow a rotation of the wing, with maybe some green stuff for the gaps, and a few pins to add support.


    You could possibly do it, but you'd have to trim out the wing tabs, as they are shaped a certain way so that only the one wing fits on the one side. I assembled mine last night and did that with the tip of the tail (I only used the one section instead of both sections of the tail bones, I like the tail a little bit shorter). The joints would look a little strange as well, as they are molded in such a way that the bones fit together in a certain way, but if you are decent with green stuff, you should be ok.

  21. I must have lucked out. I got mine yesterday, got home, assembled Kaladrax and Nethyrmaul, and went through and inventoried everything. I wasn't missing anything! ::D: I guess I was one of the unusual ones if they were expecting one or two errors per vampire! I have about 8 guys that I need to boil and freeze, so that they pop back into place, but nothing was too horrible in that respect except for the Zombie hunter with the two guns, she's bent completely over at the ankles. I even started painting one of the dark heroes (the fellow with the scroll and the scythe), and am almost done with him already lol
    Just wish I would have gotten the Clockwork dragon too... That's the only thing that I regret not getting..

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