Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by pae

  1. Hey Primeval--good to see you painting again. If it's been a while, it takes some time for the rust to work its way out.
  2. Yeah, definitely paint eyes, and don't use a toothpick to do them. You just need a brush with a very fine point, and enough bristles to hold the paint and keep it wet. Using unthinned paint will give you lumpy results quickly, and that's the last thing you want with eyes.
  3. Those are awesome first and second minis. Keep at it, and have fun.
  4. Another bonus of using a wet palette for the lazy (like me). No need to clean the palette. Just toss the sheet of parchment and put down a new one.
  5. I don't think I've ever run out of a colour of any paint. Then again, I don't paint as much as some people do.
  6. Most recently, I taught classes on blending and NMM at GenghisCon. I've also taught skintones, glazing, and some basic basing in the past. Maybe even some other things. I've been at it a while.
  7. I have bits of wire (and corresponding drill bits) of quite a few sizes. I think the smallest I've used is somewhere around a 28 gauge.
  8. Does this mean I need to be a fast writer if I want to take notes? Got you down for the Friday 2PM slot...go easy on me. Good luck trying to write as fast as John talks.
  9. That's just about perfect for me as a solo driver. My wife is the only person who I'm ok with being in a car with for more than oh, about 15 minutes. Driving long distance I'd much rather do solo than with anyone else. My longest single-day solo drive was from Helena Montana to Colorado Springs. That's something like 850 miles.
  10. re assembling before or after painting. It depends. If I don't think I can get to part of the figure if it's put together, I'll assemble later (on a piece by piece basis). If I think I'll be breaking stuff off while painting it, I'll assemble later. Otherwise, the whole thing goes together at the beginning. As for pinning, if I can get a drill bit small enough, it gets pinned. Some things are really difficult due to depth, but even a tiny divot with give the glue more surface area to stick to.
  11. Reaper brush-on sealer can be cleaned (and thinned) with water.
  12. I don't know that the folks from Hangar18 will be attending ReaperCon, but they may be providing some support.
  13. My blending technique involves a little bit of wet blending, as well as quite a bit of palette mixing. Our climate is too dry for a whole lot of wet blending work.
  14. In addition to Wren's suggestion of using brush-on sealer, you could use some brush-on gloss varnish. Or, you can take some milluput and thin it with water, and then brush that on (use a really old, crappy brush for this).
  15. I love the Scale75 paints. They might be thicker than what you are used to, but they thin very well. I've been using the NMM set for a while now, and they do very nicely. A couple of examples of the results I've gotten from them: Steel and Gold: Azure Steel: Keep in mind that I've been painting NMM for close to 10 years now, and have been teaching it at various conventions for several years.
  16. Indeed. Welcome to the Masterclass. Or as I sometimes think of it, the Proctorclass.
  17. Right. Different problems have different solutions. Also, the uniqueness theorem doesn't apply. As I tell people in the classes I teach, use whatever method works best for you.
  18. Metal discs are much cheaper than rare-earth magnets, so I'll stick with the discs. :-)
  19. Below is a picture of the shelf where I keep the things I currently have in progress (this picture is from last summer, and some of those figures haven't been touched in years). You can see several different ways that I have for holding minis while they are being painted. Corks, wood blocks, plastic caps (using double-sided tape), etc. What you can't see in this picture is that the shelf itself has rare-earth magnets glued into it in evenly spaced intervals, and all of the corks and blocks have metal discs in the bottom. A much larger version of this picture is on my FB page (link in sig)
  20. I think the cork I use is somewhere around 5mm thick (haven't actually measured it), but I almost always cut bits out of it so that it's not a uniform height. If I stack two layers of cork, I'll usually try to make sure I can somehow hide the separation in the layers (either with more tiny bits of cork, or with some pumice paste). I have a cork basing tutorial around here somewhere (and probably on my website) that I did a long long time ago, which I really should update.
  21. I use a Pentax K-7 camera with a Sigma 18-250mm lens. For lighting, I use a light tent with daylight flourescent bulbs lighting each side. After that, I crop and make whatever corrections are necessary (white balance, dust removal, etc.) in Lightroom, and then take the crops into Photoshop to create the montage. I'm considering getting a K-3 for my landscape photography, but the K-7 has plenty of pixels for photographing minis, even for use in publications.
  22. Ah, if only you had been at GenghisCon this past weekend and taken one of my blending classes. In my class, I pretty much did a demo of purple->teal->lime green->yellow, shown here: As Wren mentioned, you could do it by layering or wet blending. What I usually end up doing is just mixing it up on the palette and then applying the paint to the miniature in such a way that I get decent blends. There is a little bit of wet blending going on, but I'm certainly not thinning the paint as much as you'd do by layering. Here's what my palette looked like: If going from blue to orange, you will pretty much get a brownish/greyish muddy mess if you tried mixing those two colors directly. But taking an intermediate step will definitely help. As blue and orange are complementary colors, you could use purple/violet-red as the tranisitional color if you wanted a more reddish transition area, or green if you wanted a more greenish-yellow transition area.
  23. Congrats on the win! And I hope you remember a little bit from all of the classes you took. I know when I've tried to take that many, I could barely remember anything. If nothing else, you have the purple/teal/lime green/yellow blending experiment to remind you. :-p
  24. Yep...what Michael said. If you look closely, you may notice that the scales from the scale armor that are underneath the fur show up in the recess here.
  • Create New...