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awong

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Everything posted by awong

  1. Arrius is my favorite. The blade is great and that little bit of red on his broach is a nice touch. You definitely have the layering principle down. If I may suggest smoothing out the blending by adding additional steps between the layers (more layers). I'm probably only seeing the color shifts because of the Macro photography, but as harsh as the camera can be, it's also a great tool for pointing you to your next step. The Elf Princess is also a very nice piece. The face looks a little plain but that could be the photos. Bigger photos would help. I'd love to see Gossamer a bit larger. Very nice...post more! Thanks AWhang
  2. Something I do is hop over to the Show Off section. I find paint ups that I really like and inquire (if someone hasn't already) what colors were used. This way, I know the result I'm after (and I know I like it), I've got an idea already how I'm planning on using it, and I can slowly build up my collection. I admit, it's a bit spotty, but I'm all over the boards with the paints I use anyways . Thanks AWhang
  3. These are great references! You should definitely add this to the sticky book-list! I think a trip to my local book seller is in order. Many Thanks AWhang
  4. Thought I'd post a status report. I'm guessing I'm about 95% finished with the painting of the mini and I've got some basing left to go. Thanks AWhang
  5. I was just thinking about these guys...trying to rack my brain for who produced them. The "show-your-first-mini" type threads always gets me back to these pieces but for the life of me, I could never remember who made them (sadly, I don't have mine anymore ). Many thanks for filling a hole in my brain Very nice paint-ups also. I too like the Hobbitses best! Thanks AWhang
  6. At GenCon Sue had the "pokey tool" which I believe was a dissecting needle (a heavy gauged pin fixed to an xacto-like handle). Very effective, just push it through the clog. Also useful for jabbing into patrons who insist on leaving their brushes in the wash water (I kid...) Thanks AWhang
  7. You forgot "Schlorping" Sorry, couldn't resist. Thanks AWhang
  8. I just love how crisp and clean your pieces are. Everything reads so well and I never get the feeling that one thing is over-powering another. It's just amazing! You truely have a gifted eye! Looking forward to more. Thanks AWhang
  9. If anyone is interested in getting nice .5oz dropper bottles... Avenue You Beauty Store is having a $1 shipping promotion. Their dropper bottles are a tad bit smaller than Vallejo bottles and you won't be able to fit all of a new bottle of RPP into them, (Citadels fit just fine), but they don't make you buy lots of 100 either . I bought a lot of 30 from them and they missed one bottle...I mentioned it and they expressed a single bottle straight away...really great service. Anyways, just thought I'd let you know. Thanks AWhang Edit: boy this hobby sure takes you places where you'd normally never go
  10. I thinned until it was the consistency of a light wash. This was advantageous to me as I was also going for an effect that was subtle (read...many passes). I wouldn't expect to be able to do single coats over black type airbrushing with this brush (thin lines, thin paint). The lucky thing is, not much to "unfowl". The paint reservoir is an open dish, wipe with a cotton swap soaked in airbrush thinner. Pull the needle and carefully wipe that with a cotton ball soaked with airbrush thinner. Check around the brush for any spots of paint...wipe with cotton ball. Pop needle back in and put a drop or two of new color in, start spraying. When I first got mine, I had to fiddle with the air pressure, but that was difficult only because my compressor is old, direct to the brush (no tank reserve) and I didn't know what I was doing. I'm not sure what my pressure is set at now...I only know that I found a sweet spot and left it alone Thanks AWhang
  11. Here's a couple tips I can give...goes back to my historical days (much larger figs, but the technique still holds). Shep Paine has a method that is simple, but requires that the eyes are painted first on the face. First fill in the eye socket with the "whites of the eyes" color (I use a fleshy white rather than a pure white). Using your iris color, paint a vertical stripe through the eye ball the width of the iris. Paint a black stripe the width of the pupil down the center of that. You should have 5 color stripes ("white", iris, pupil, iris, "white" color). Using your iris color, clean up and "position" your pupil (touch up so that what's left of the pupil stripe is just a dot in the position you want the pupil to be). Clean up and "position" your iris with the "white" color (round off corners if you want to show "white" above or below the iris, for the extreme up or down gaze) Using a darker brown (I go slightly darker than my face shadow color) edge the upper eyelid. You can follow the sculpt or adjust as you see fit. You can also be a little messy in the direction of the rest of the face, you'll clean that edge up later with the flesh base coat. If you follow the sculpt, sometimes a thinned controlled wash can be run along the sculpted edge...But be careful! Using a medium brown, edge the lower eyelid. I sometimes will only go from the outside edge of the lid to directly under the iris, emphasizing the corner of the eye. Final clean up is with you flesh base color. Paint up to, but leave a thin upper eyelid line, same for the lower lid and you're done. The beauty of this method, although it sounds complicated and time consuming, is that it doesn't really rely a lot on precision. The steps allow you to "clean" up and shape verses trying to get a shape correct in one go. Additional hints - For a straight ahead look, align the iris/pupils with the corners of the mouth...ymmv depending upon the sculpt of course Do the eye on the opposite side of your strong hand. E.G. I'm right handed so I do the left eye (mini's right eye) first. That way, when I'm painting the remaining eye I'm not fighting the nose and I get a clear view of the painted iris/pupil to help better align. As mentioned above, don't forget to turn the mini upside down...helps to get at the eye socket when sculpted hair or armor is in the way. Pop-eyes can be avoided by painting the upper and lower lid edge so they slightly clip the iris...leaving "whites" above and below the iris is going to give that "Oh my god!" look...which is fine for certain situations. Avoiding pure white for the "white of the eyes" color will also help lessen the Pop-eye effect. Practicing will make the procedure less mechanical and more intuitive, but I'm willing to bet before that happens, you'll start to develop the control and technique to actually just "dot" your eyes in. Hopefully this is helpful. Shep Paine's figure painting manual (Kalambach) is a great find if you can get it. Every one of his classic Monogram Model inserts had this technique outlined too. Edit:Oops...I didn't mean to make the illustrations to scale . Sorry, still learning Photoshop. Thanks AWhang
  12. As a thread hijack...I've actually been interested in getting some of the Polishing Pins. The seller has course (blue), fine (red) and xfine (green). I'm wondering if anyone else would like to go in on some with me. I'm thinking 3-4 people, get a bag of each type, and divide them up evenly so everyone has a number of each. Anyone interested? Please PM me if interested. Nissiana, does a standard Dremel collet work to hold these or do you need something special to chuck these into? Thanks AWhang
  13. As Bilesuck says, as long as it's thinned it seems to work fine. I use mostly model acrylics (Pactra, testors, Floquil). I have not tried my recent tiny collection of MSPs or RPPs, but I suspect they'd do fine as well. Thanks AWhang
  14. Looking forward to the WIP! The PP stuff has always looked like fun to me. Go, go, go Thanks AWhang
  15. I've used a lot of different airbrushes in my time (coming from Armor modeling, Badgers up to Azteks) and I've recently settled on an older Iwata HP-c (this URL takes you to the cplus, click the fourth image) and this Paasche AB. Although reading up on the Paasche AB made it sound really confusing to operate, I found suggestions for some of the settings that make the thing simpler to use than anything else I've found. I'm able to paint panel lines on Gundams, and subtle panel fades. The great thing (besides quick clean-up) is that you can paint with 1 or 2 drops of thinned paint. It's made for fine work (originally photo touch-up before the digital days I'm told). Plus, the fact that it sounds like a dental tool is an added bonus I found my older used one and bought extra needles on ebay. Thanks AWhang
  16. Painting large flat areas sometimes require the use of the brush's side as well...that is, laying the brush lengthwise against the surface and whisking the thinned paint across. You get an even and thin application especially if the paint is the right consistency and you've made sure you've unloaded most of the paint onto a paper towel. Thanks AWhang
  17. Good Heavens! What do you do with BLUNT needles! Aren't those things painful enough going in sharp?!
  18. Beanie, If you can find the Flow Improver, get yourself some extender at the same time. This will mean you can leave out getting the future floor wax. I don't know if you're a brush licker (not a derogitory term I promise) but if you are, I don't think Future is good eats. Jo-Anns is another crafts outlet that might have what you need. A good art supply store (are you near a college or university?) will also be a great place to find everything from Brushes to additives. I'm also in SoCal, but much nearer to LA so I've got a fair selection of Hobby Shops and Art Stores near (if you call 35mi near). If you really can't find something and don't want to go through the internet, drop me a PM and I'll root around for you. BTW, swap meets are great for dental picks, cheap drill bits, files, twist drill handles...just look for the obligatory "tool guy" stall. Thanks AWhang
  19. I'd say that this is a very strong start for a "beginner". The face turned out very nice, eyes well shaped, not pop-eye'd, evenly placed. All the areas are blocked in neatly and the paint doesn't look lumpy or too thick. I also like very much the metal on the mace looking thing (hanging at the knees...censer?). The book cover and binding also looks very convincing although the straps look a little flat. This is a great start! I would follow everyone's advice and progress slowly and steadily. Pick minis that you want to paint, pick a technique you'd like to work on, when that mini is done to your satisfaction, post it here for comments. It may seem a bit weird to be picking and choosing individual techniques but as you progress, techniques that you've become comfortable with become second nature and that'll allow you to concentrate on newer challenges. Post more! Thanks AWhang
  20. Anne, Are you using the series 10 or series 35 Da Vinci's? I'm guessing these are like the WN series 7 standard and mini (the series 10 are shorter than the 35). I was amazed when I tried my first WNs7's...after suffering through many synthetic brushes. Is there a very big difference between the WNs and the DaVincis? Thanks AWhang
  21. I recently did this with my Citadel and few Reaper Pros. I used GreyHorde's method and it worked out great. I used one toothpick per color. After adding a bit of water or other additive, don't forget to drop in a glass bead or fishing split-shot weight as an agitator. Nothing more satisfying than feeling that bit-o-lead rattling around in the bottle as you shake! :) Just in case, spread out a bit of newspaper, keep a few paper towels handy, and a small cup of water nearby. Good luck. Thanks AWhang
  22. I recently had an opportunity to test Krylon against GW's (both white) primer while prepping 100 mini's for a paint and take. Krylon compared very well, both in coverage and texture. Both went on a bit pebbly but I think that was user error...spraying 50 minis on a pretty warm day, I think I let the cans stray a bit further from the targets than recommended. For the price, Krylon is great. For my personal work, I've been using Floquil Gray. I've heard of recent problems and I'm about to purchase a new can soon, so my opinions may change, but on the whole, I've always been happy with it (although I wouldn't call it cheap). I've tried Duplicolor and found that it rubbed off quite easily. I'm hoping I didn't get a bad batch. It just seemed much more delicate than I would have hoped. Just my $.02 Thanks AWhang
  23. This is very good! I'll give Alcohol (I need to find the 91% stuff) a shot. I'm hoping some quick dunks and scrubs will be all that's necessary. These were plastic GW figs painted with craft paints. Many Thanks everyone! AWhang
  24. Sorry for the hijack but... Does anyone have experience with paint stripping and green stuff? Many of my early conversions are destined for the drink, but I'm a little worried about the seam filling and sculpted bits that were done with green stuff, squadron green putty, milliput, epoxy joints, CA joints, etc. Anyone have experience regarding which methods don't eat putties and epoxies? I'm pretty resigned to the fact that all my ground cover will come off because that's just held on by PVA glue, but resculpting rocks and scenery, or just finding a pile of bits at the bottom of the jar, would be a bad surprise. Thanks AWhang
  25. Some "historical" guys will polish up the metal in the areas that are...metal. Then start with a coat or two of Tamiya Smoke. This helps add depth and if you work it around the raised edges, will help deepen those areas. When dried, Tamiya has other colors that can be used to tint / glaze the metal (dry brushing isn't very effective after you've polished metal...no surface tooth). Final step is a bit of graphite (pencil lead) or rub on metalic paste for the highlights. Also, Jakob Rune Nielsen's site has some great metalic painting tutorials. Thanks AWhang Edit: sorry, this thread was about using specific paints, not about painting with metalics...please disregard.
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