Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by awong

  1. Beautiful piece! I have to echo everyone else...I'd be pleased as punch to get this in the mail! For the face, maybe shading using glazes of maroon or darker reds? The warmth and color of the reds would contrast against the cooler base/highlight colors, and may help differentiate the skin tones from the clothes. I'm not sure if it's the photos, but it looks like there is a very fine texturing that can be seen on the blue cloth and quiver? That's very neat...looks like a wool or fleece material. I'd love to see closer photos of this mini! -AW
  2. Wow. Those are all amazing! Have you done a WIP or tutorial? These are awesome in their close-ups...they most be absolutely jaw dropping on the table top! Great job. That was a year well spent! -AW
  3. There's also the sticky topic at the beginning of this "Painting Tips and Advice" section. Granted, it's not exclusively geared toward Mini Painting, but I'm a true believer in wrangling as much technique, from all the different modeling disciplines, that I can muster. I'll also second the recommendations for "Le Grand Livre de la Peinture du Figurines", a beautiful tome but unfortunately tricky if you don't know French (on-line translators are spotty at best). I also agree with the recommendation for the "Darkson Designs Painting Guide Vol 1". Didn't know about it being out of print, that's a shame. It's a very nice book to have close at hand while painting. ...And welcome to the boards. -AW
  4. PM sent. Just the kick in the pants I need to force me to complete something new. I've been in a funk since March! :) -AWhang
  5. WHOOPs, I missed that other Reaper Sophie that you are all probably talking about. Disregard my mumblings...I need to scroll down a page occasionally! Wait, you all know that the Reaper Con Sophie is currently up for sale over at Reaper Miniatures, right? Just click on the "Reaper miniatures" heading (Just below the Title "Reaper message boards". For free shipping, you just need to pick up $25 worth of goodies. Since the Sophie is practically $10, for those that want two or more, you're almost at the free shipping mark. Remember, even if someone else pick-up up the Sophie for you, unless they're close to you, there will still be some shipping required. Just in case you didn't know :) -AW
  6. Wizard One and Ferox have some great suggestions. After hearing that, originally, the Ork was meant to stand on the seats, I also envisioned something along the lines of what Ferox has diagrammed. Your worry about the Ork's reach across the two bike seats could be mitigated by filing down the two mufflers in the middle, that would help bring the bikes closer together and, if you file both mufflers, it'll provide a nice wide and flat surface to glue the two bikes together. From a compositional point of view, may I suggest also angling each bike so that the seats are closer together. This would help with the legs making contact and could help hide the "modified" mufflers. Another plus is that it may add some additional dynamism and animation to the scene. Currently, both bikes parallel each other and that actually looks very static to me...especially from the front view. By angling the bikes, maybe even raising one front wheel higher than the other, you may get a little more movement and frenetic energy...something very fitting for a charging Ork Warboss pulling a wheelie while standing up! (which is a very cool idea btw. I love Orks, they just ooze personality). I'm really looking forward to seeing how you finally solve this engineering problem and the finished painted product. I do hope you'll post it when it's done. -AW
  7. I also use a fair amount of Vallejo. If I'm reading your ratios correct (5 parts paint to 1 part water) then I'd say you definitely need to thin more. More like 1 part paint to 2 or 3 parts water. Vallejo's do tend to separate more when thinned like this so be prepared to stir the paint (I use my brush handle end, not the bristle end) often. Also, as mentioned above, do not expect to cover your base coat in one go. Multiple thin layers, applied over completely dried layers, is the way to slowly build up your color. Apply shadows and highlights with even thinner paints to aid in blending. Pictures would definitely help. -A(crawling out of lurking mode)W
  8. I'll add another "thumbs up" for Figure International as well. They used to be distributed through Squadron Hobbies, but that stopped recently. I found that out when I attempted to subscribe around Xmas. Looking through a recent copy of Fine Scale Modeler, I found an add for a subscription, this time with a different outfit ("OI something or other"). You can also go to Fine Scale's site and order on-line. At the news stand, this Mag is pretty pricey, but through subscription...it's still kinda pricey ($8.76/issue). You should know that it is a quarterly Mag. Relatively cheap back issues (that's how I bulked up my collection) are still available through Squadron BTW. They sell them in volumes (E.G. 2005, four* issues for 3$...that's 3$ for 4* issues!Whoohoo!). *EDIT:my mistake, only three issues for 3$ for vol. 2004 and 2005. You'll find lots of great paint-up articles by recognized painters (recently Jeremie B's articles started showing up regularly!). The rest of the Mag will be filled with Figure Show reviews (great inspiration, mostly Historical) and new product lists. Hope this was helpful. -AW
  9. This is a real common topic here. I'm wondering if it would be useful to pin a "choosing, proper care, and feeding of your equipment" or maybe just a specific "brush care" pinned topic (there are some great articles on this subject as well). I know I'd find that useful, especially on tools I seldom use (I hate cleaning airbrushes, or de-clogging my files, or reviving my wet palette, or...). Is it worthy of a pin? Maybe just the brush topic to ease the organization of the topic. -AW
  10. Wow! Your blends are gorgeous and the metallics...Wow! Your control of highlights and shadows is amazing. You're using such a limited color palette yet you get such a huge textural range. I could look at your work all day! -AW
  11. I'm enjoying the progress you're making. Very cool! Regarding the metallics, sounds like you're doing it correctly. Definitely thin it down, but be prepared to layer on multiple coats. Make sure the previous coats have completely dried so you don't accidentally "tear" through it. This will also keep the finish nice and smooth. You'll find, after many layers, a beautiful finish. -AW
  12. Very cool. Looking forward to this project's progression. Quick question...because you used balsa for the gems, will you be sealing and smoothing the surfaces more? I'm reading either grain or pitting on the surfaces and I'm wondering if that might spoil the gem-like quality of your future applications of paint. Perhaps using plastic sprue or plastic rod might give you a smoother surface to work on? Regardless, looks like a good start to a cool idea. -AW
  13. Can I put in a plug for SCAHMS California Show, March 12-13. Description is much on the lines of MMSI. Anaheim California, Open Judging system, Many figure painting luminaries, You'll find yourself literally tripping over dropped jaws . I dream of someday making it out to ReaperCon...sigh...
  14. Kudos to John, Kit, Anne, and everyone else involved with this great tool. Like others, I'm really enjoying its tie-in with the inspiration gallery. I was wondering if I could make a suggestion? Instead of clicking multiple times across a gradated surface (E.G. a fold of cloth to analyze dark to light), would it be possible to draw a line from one target point to another and then automatically take samples and give results at some preset points along that line? For example... Standard clicks with the crosshairs give standard results. Shift+click two points would draw a line between the two points clicked, then calculate at points 1/3 distance, so you'd get 4 results, start, end, and two for points equidistant in-between. Regardless, this is very neat and useful...Reaper Rocks! Now excuse me, I've got to start analyzing NMM pix -AW
  15. Hi Sarge, I get to do a fair bit of hardsurface modeling in my work and can offer some advice, although all of my modeling is in Maya and I've never processed and exported for prototyping. My stuff usually is just for renders. The crinkling that you're experiencing is probably due to the high poly count around the nacelles. Try and keep the counts as low as possible while roughing in shape and then rez-ing up only near the end. This helps make changes to design much more manageable and quick. It will also help smooth out that section later on. Ferox's suggestion to post wireframes is an excellent one. You can see much more by studying that, especially in the blend area between engine and body. If you can run a render that has the wireframe on while in shaded mode, so much the better. I'm guessing that a strict wireframe would be pretty jumbled in the engine/body intersection. Another trick we use - only model half...assuming a symmetrical final product. Just prior to rendering, duplicate and mirror the finished half to check out the whole. Some programs allow you to duplicate an instance of the half and mirror, then, as you model on one half or another, the changes are automatically repeated to the other side. That may tax your hardware so you might want to just stick with modeling one half first. Very cool start. Can't wait to see the finished product (you'll have a blast texturing this I'll bet!). -AW
  16. Very nicely done. I agree 100% with what MamaG said. All those subtle glints here and there really help make this guy stand out. Very clean work and, I'll bet, looks as stunning up close as on the gaming table.
  17. I'll echo previous comments about the red tabard-y thing...very velvety. I think the back came out much stronger (for me), perhaps because you pushed the contrast more. The contrasts of blue against the red, and blond hair against the armor, both help make these elements pop for me. A little outlining around the crevasses and separations in the armor would really help that read as segmented. I do like how worn and slightly rusted/dusty it looks. I think your base is very appropriate and not at all out of place (except for the fingerprints along that back edge ). A very nice piece indeed! -AW
  18. A great mini...or should we call it a "figure", being 54mm? It's especially amazing because it's 54mm and you were able to do this level of work in only 10 hours! The subtle shading and weathering on his armor is really nice. Great atmosphere about this guy! Good to see you back at the paints! Looking forward to a great "off season" of painting from you. -AW
  19. I don't personally recall any exchanges like this before. I've been around since '03. Again, I don't visit the sculpting section of this forum often so I'm not sure what's happened over there. -AW
  20. Would this be something that should also reside in the sculpting section of this forum? I'm not sure how moderators feel about threads crossing sections, but you might pick up some interest and suggestions from those who haunt that area as well. -AW
  21. I know it might be a little short notice (please don't shoot the messenger, I'm not at all an official of this club, just a distant member passing along some info) but the Southern California Area Historical Miniature Society will be holding their annual show this coming March (12-13). As their name implies, they're mostly a Historical group but some members do work on fantasy pieces. Also, they use the open judging system (a la MMSI). Luminaries of this club will probably be familiar to many of you including the likes of Bill Horan, Doug Cohen (who was such a force at ReaperCon 2009), Carson Van Osten, John Rosengrant, Mike Good and Steve Durling, just to name a few. If you happen to be in the area, drop on in and be prepared to have your socks knocked off Along with the competition, they'll have a modest tradeshow area and seminars. If you think you'll be going, look me up (PM). I'd love to meet up with some of you Reaper folks that I only know by call sign::): Thanks AWhang
  22. Now that's a pretty neat idea. Something for the sculptors out there eh? No need for paint? What about bases? Perhaps, to better complete the story a base, preferably separated from the mini, should be included. The exchange would officially end with the recipient painting up the mini and posting it? It would be fascinating to see how others interpret your original concept. What sort of time frame? and would the process of requesting a specific theme or mini still apply? E.G. traditionally, the unknowing recipient would request a mini, or mini type, or "just surprise me". For this, would the recipient request a starting mini? or theme? or "just surprise me" ? Very unique. I'm going to have to watch this thread to see how it develops. -AW
  23. I second everything that AmalorM says plus... A deadline and the thrill of painting for someone else really is great incentive (at least for me) to get cracking with the brushes and actually paint something and complete it. My own work is a sad collection of half painted, un-based, and horribly mutated mid-conversion pieces that just sit there...and mock me... -AW
  24. A very nice piece! The base work is great. I like that added touch of professionalism with the wooden base. The elevated groundwork really makes the menacing pose even more impressive. -AW
  25. The glass like reflections are great! A really unique take on armor. I had to do a double take to make sure what I was seeing was painted and not just a high gloss coat. Wow. Sigurd though...that's my favorite. There's a lot of emotion and drama on that tiny 1" base. You should be extremely proud of your work! -AW
  • Create New...