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Everything posted by Flow

  1. Really I've found a sewing needle works great. I keep one - with thread attached, so it's easy to find - in my work tray. It's needle-y point just jams right through; one wiggle and paint is always flowing again.
  2. Beautiful work! The eyes of the octopus are particularly grabbing. The sculpted stuff is *great*. That sounds to be a particularly fun Pathfinder campaign.
  3. TMM: "True Metallic Metals", the cousin to the method described by NMM. TMM involves the use of pigments with metallic elements to them in painting metals. (Edit: this thread is how old, and didn't have TMM mentioned? )
  4. I am glad the pesky icicles are better! I will probably spend a little bit messing around with him, and then I do need to figure out a good way to photograph him correctly. I have a lightbox, but it's actually too small. Once I get it settled I will definitely post final pictures.
  5. This sounds like a good plan; though admittedly I'd hate to start over on them. I believe I've managed to straighten/improve them with a bit of coaxing with a hobby knife and other means. The other means was by dabbing 'Realistic Water' along the icicles - as well as much of the snow - which helped to provide a little bit of weight and control to straighten them out. The benefit of using the 'Realistic Water' on the snow is that it gives it a much more 'icy' appearance. Laoke is right - the area right above the icicles should be icier, and it was there I put the most generous amount of Realistic Water. I also dabbed it around on the snow in general, as it provided it an excellent reflective quality that looks pretty good imho. Here's a quick photo - not sure if it really shows the sparkle of the new effect. I'll try to get better pictures after I futz with the thing a little more.
  6. I see your point and there are a couple that are 'crooked'. I'll need to give them a tweak or even a redo. The difficulty is there is an almost random 'grab' direction, I believe depending on how they first make contact when attaching, that they just insist on leaning into. You can try to correct it, but it almost always just leans right back into whatever direction it grabbed. I believe a tiny bit of a random side is making contact with the cliff, and then it gets pulled in that direction rather insistently. Wrestling with tiny fake icicles can make for a mildly annoying experience.
  7. For point of reference and comparison - Rauthuros meets the Dog, part II. The dog seems slightly more impressed.
  8. Okay - where there is snowy cliffs, there are icicles! I previously did icicles using a completely different method with Arrius the Black. With Arrius, I broke off tines from plastic forks, heated them, stretched them, and was able to create fake 'icicles' to glue onto the base (to give credit, I learned of this from a blog at fantasygames). I'd read about this second method from Woodland Scenics and wanted to give it a shot. I am on the fence as to which method is actually better. I'll do a comparison further down. This method is using 'Water Effects' from Woodland Scenics. Cut off a piece of parchment paper and get it flat using the age old trick of grabbing random stuff on your desk. Then, just carefully ooze out thin trails of the water effects down the length of the parchment paper. The stuff will come out white, but dries clear (takes a couple of hours). This photo is of the dried clear icicles. (I neglected to take a picture when drying, but just picture them as not being clear and you'll get the idea). Then you can just flake off the dried 'icicles' and pick out the ones good enough to use. I recommend making a bunch as it did seem I made a lot of 'rejects'. I also tended to get better at it after making a couple of sheets. I did also learn that - while the stuff is wet - you can carefully shape malformed icicles so that they look a bit more icicle-y. Then it's just a matter of gluing the little suckers on. I just dabbed them with super glue and carefully applied them. The created icicles are a little 'gummy', and I did find they had an annoying habit of sticking to the tweezers. Therefore, I ended up carefully applying them by hand. Here's two: Then it's just a matter of going around the ring. Here's two angles with the icicles along the front; of course I skipped the 'melted' part. :D Okay, a quick comparison of the two methods of creating icicles: Using clear plastic fork tines (or rods): Pros: Appear to be more durable. Icicles created are rigid and seem 'strong'. I am suspecting that these may weather with time - as well as the wear and tear of potential handling - better than the rubbery icicles created with water effects.Cons: Harder - fork tines, when melted, tend to go 'wonky' and there was a pretty good attrition rate. This did get better with practice, but making each icicle was a little time consuming. The rigidity that is its strength does perhaps make it look less natural. Using Woodland Scenics 'Water Effects': Pros: Much easier to make. There is still an attrition rate of creating malformed icicles; however, it is so easy and quick to noodle out a bit more water effects that it is far from time consuming. Appear a bit more 'natural' than the plastic; however, additional practice with stretching heated plastic rods may balance this. Cons: Rubbery texture seems fragile and may not stand up to the test of time all that well. Next up: fussing with it and trying to get a new lightbox that's big enough so that I can properly photograph it.
  9. Thank you for the kind words! I've really enjoyed working on this guy, and I'm glad that people have enjoyed the thread. There's still a bit to be done with him, and then I'll likely futz around with cleanup for awhile. I'm sure there are a 101 spots that could use touch-up. And I do think regular sized minis are what I'll be doing next. The sheer size of Rauthuros makes him a bit daunting. I do have some other 'large' miniatures (namely some awesome giants) in my queue, but I think the next few will be nice and normal sized critters.
  10. I am actually a big fan of Otherworld miniatures - they often have a lot of character and they also do a lot of wonderful retro goodness. That priest looks spiffy!
  11. It appears it is not too late at all! I managed to scrap off a likely circle of snow around the area immediately below the 'heat' of the blade. I used one of those wax sculpting tools for this. I did dab on a smidgen of brown ink to 'dirty up' the ground made visible. I'm trying this with a bit of Realistic Water from Woodland Scenics. I've found pouring just a bit into the cap from a bottled water works well. Note, when using this stuff, dab it on with an old junky brush specifically for these sort of things - the stuff gets gunky and I wouldn't want it on any brush that I'd use for fine details. I dabbed in just a tiny, tiny, tiny amount of the orange-ish color. And I mean tiny. Pigment in this realistic water goes a *long* way. I'm thinking it might be cool to have the 'wet' spot from the thawed snow look a tinge orange-ish, as if it is reflecting the heat a tad. Applied one coat: Waited maybe 20 minutes (the stuff dries slooow - hours really) for it to slightly stiffen, then applied a second coat: It's looking pretty good as far as I can tell. A little bit of the 'water' bunched up as a drop underneath the melt, which looks sort of perfect. Now just to let it dry and see if another layer is necessary or not.
  12. !! I like this. Originally I had thought it might be awesome to have his left side somehow 'frozen' in a layer of ice, and his right side thawed out - as if the heat of the blade was awakening him from an icy prison. But - the logistics seemed a bit much.
  13. TIME FOR SNOOOOWWW. I first mixed together some Woodland Scenics 'Soft Flake Snow' with PVA glue. I'm looking to get a thick, workable, almost 'cookie dough' sort of consistency. Then, glop it on!
  14. Beautiful job! I love old mini's. You did an excellent job here.
  15. This is a good point and I'll have to think about this. I suppose I was thinking the heat from sword was pretty extreme - thus, lots of light! Maybe I could broaden the molten effect so that it goes a bit further down the blade. Thank you for the feedback.
  16. I actually think that's pretty good. I'm only just trying the technique myself (Rauthuros in WIP). So, take the advice below with that in mind. It looks like the paint for the OSL is thinned enough, but maybe not quite consistent in its application. Perhaps try just getting a smidgen of the glaze on the barest tip of your brush and filling in those small gaps in the reflections where the color seems a bit 'thin'. To help the transition between the reflection and the metallic of the mini, you can also get a really thin glaze of the metallic color you used, and very light apply some around the edges of the reflection. This can help with any drying stains as well as make the transition from the green to the metallic 'smooth'.
  17. The blade is awesome! I have yet to try that effect but it is extremely effective.
  18. A bit done on Sunday! Red runes for his upper left wrist band, blue runes (and sheen) for left-hand sword. More clean up on OSL.
  19. Okay, another awfully long break. I moved! Yes - all my grumbling before was pre-move grumbling. Pain is behind me and wow - it's good to be "home". So I managed to restart Rauthuros again over the last week and started up a part of him that I've been imagining from the beginning. His right hand sword has a distinct 'obsidian' look to it and likely could be deemed 'magical' - I mean, he's a giant blue four-armed demon, so all of his stuff should be magical. FIRE seems the obvious enchantment for a demonic obsidian blade, and that will also bring some contrast to the blue. More importantly, it gives me a chance to try OSL, which is something I've read about but have never tried. So - first attempt at OSL! First, here's the sword I'm talking about: I'm going to be doing the initial sword with Reapers 'Lava Colors' triad. First step was just to put on some of the mid-range color, lava orange Then, explosion orange for highlight and magma red for a deeper tone. I'm looking to make it look as if it's 'heating up' towards the inward tip of the blade. Here I started to use a mixture of the lighter tone Explosion Orange with a touch of Pearl White (sparkles!). The 'draft' of that is complete - from here I delved into trying the OSL portion. I took the light explosion orange, lightened it a bit with fair highlight, and then REALLY thinned it down. I glazed high points close to the flaming sword, including the fist weapon behind it. From there I took a bit of the deeper tone - magma red - and also REALLY thinned it down. I gently dabbed tiny thin glazes to redden up the lightened areas. More of the reddenings. Last step - where I am now - I expanded the area lightened up on his left shoulder.
  20. Moooooooounted. Unfortunately Rauthuros is a big fatass. I can't hold him with the universal part holder after all. He's just too top heavy, and I'm afraid the grip required for the part holder to keep a hold of him may damage the base. However, mounting him wasn't a complete loss - being able to hold him by the base while painting him is much better than my previous style of holding him by his wings. There's dabs of pumice putty around his feets in this image. This will be touched up soon. I also touched up the wings a bit, both front and back. They still need some work but are getting closer.
  21. Thank you all for the encouragement! I think the base is likely headed into an icy direction to match his non-smurf blue. At least, that's the tentative direction. I did a little with the base this evening. I put on a thin coat of the pumice putty (helps get rid of the coconut skin texture) and got some basic color on it. I started just by painting the darn thing black. You can't really go wrong with that - when in doubt, just paint it all black. It worked when I was twelve (not really), and it still works now. Black, then Walnut Brown, then a thin glaze of Earth Brown, then dry brushing of Dusky Skin Highlight followed by a very thin dry brush of white. Alright, he's not mounted - but it's flat enough to stand on. A good sign. Mounting tomorrow, then we'll get to see if the universal part holder can carry the weight of this behemoth.
  22. Okay, I have been a bad, bad WIP type person. This move - which YES is still midway - is still going on, and just, wow, moving sucks. That's all I'll say about that for the moment. So, I actually have made some progress on this guy here and there, though I haven't done a very good job of keeping up with photographs. Here's where we are at right now. I have his tail base re-attached, and painted with some highlighting, armor and weapons base painted, and the beginnings of highlights on the wings (these need smoothing as does other areas). So, today I started thinking about his base. I hate handling him so delicately and he's just so big - I'd like to get him mounted, even though the painting is not finished, just so I can have an easier way of handling him. If I can mount him I believe I can get the 'universal part holder' to grip his big base, and then I can twist and turn him without direct contact. So - base. I love the whole coconut shell thing, so I picked out a few likely looking pieces. That's a wooden dowel from Michael's - which I'm not going to use. Thought I would at first. It's actually a little too big for the part holder to grip. I'm ending up using a black plastic base that's just a hair smaller. Below are all the pieces stacked up, along with the initial bond - 2-part epoxy should create a strong bond for the various coconut pieces. This is what Rauthuros *might* look like after getting pinned onto this thing. Okay, in this last photo, I've epoxied it all together. Plus, I used Vallejo's awesome 'grey pumice' stuff to fill in a number of the cracks between the coconut fragments. This stuff takes awhile to dry, so that has to be it for the moment. It also shrinks, which means another layer will likely have to be applied in the morning. It looks a little messy here but it'll get cleaned up with another application and (hopefully) will eventually look pretty cool.
  23. Now that his lizard like tail is conveniently removed, I was able to paint a bit of his rear side. Still quite in work; however I was able to do a decent bit of highlighting/shadowing, cleaned up his "back horns" as well as paint some of the leather straps on his legs (on that - who made those for Rauthuros? Who sized him? Why did he decide to only wear one piece of armor on one leg? I'm not sure Rauthuros really thought this out well).
  24. 1.) Buying a house is over-rated. Okay - if it is successful - perhaps it isn't; but so far, escrow appears to be something equivalent to one of the mid-range layers of hell. Half of our life is boxed up and the other half is being juggled by financial real estate types that seem more interested in their manicures than our fate. I feel like the line "your offer on the home has been accepted" should be equivalent to "roll for initiative". 2.) I managed to shovel BLAUTHORUS slightly forward. See first image below. More work on the skin, plus more base coats on the weapons. Both of the lower swords are definitely "intereresting", and I wanted to paint them with colors a bit more unique than the standard 'skull' tone. The lower right sword, in gold, I feel has a bit of a strange alien cast, and the red on the lower left a bit draconic. Also worth note is the dash of green stuff on this belt; the belt line was really smoothed out in the assembly, so much that you couldn't really see where the belt began and his little fat demon belly began. My sculpting skills are, so far, about good enough to make the equivalent of clay noodles, and therefore I was able to "sculpt" a new upper line on the belt. Not immediately realized in this photograph is the fact I also sculpted his lower left bump in his six pack. For some reason this particular bump was pretty small and deformed looking, so I bulked it up. Here he is after a bit of more work in his skin, as well as the beginnings of work on his horns. I did highlights using the 09142-09144 ivory series, with an additional level of highlight created using 09144 (Creamy Ivory) with the sparky Pearl White. I added some deeper shading in between the ridges of the left horn using a bit of thinned Army Painter 'Strong Tone'. Then - a bit of disaster, though better now than later! The little devil's tale shivered off. I hadn't pinned it. Below is the picture of this error corrected; however, I think I will abstain from actually connecting the dots for the moment and will take the opportunity to paint his backside unobstructed. Those who suggest earlier to paint his pieces before assembling really did have a point.
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