Jump to content

purple llama

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by purple llama

  1. Yeah, I just line them up as straight as I can, and push them in. It can take a lot of force, especially after it gets a ways in. The main trick is to hold the pin with pliers just a few mm from where it's inserted - if you hold it too far away, the pin is likely to just bend, and while you can bend them back if you do it too much it'll be prone to breaking, which defeats the purpose. So it's a pretty slow process, grab, push until the pliers hit the plastic, reposition pliers, push more. Sometimes your aim will be off, if the pin pops out where it shouldn't pull it back a ways, bend the piece a lot so that the pin won't just go back to its old channel, push it in again. You can then straighten the piece out. The nice thing about taking it slow is often only the very tip pops out, and the plastic will heal when you pull it back in. You can also bend them once the pin is in, the plastic stops it from bending tightly enough to break, but the bent pin will hold whatever shape you bent it to (you have to over bend a bit, since they've got some spring to 'em.) It gives the minis back some of the versatility of metal. Once you've got it in as far as you want, pull it out a bit, snip the end, and push it all the way in, a little deeper than the surface. The bones plastic will squish when you push it, then spring back leaving the metal hidden inside. You're left with a teeny mark that can be primed over easily, or greenstuffed if it's somewhere noticeable.
  2. So far so good! Been a few days now and no noticeable movement. I just used cheap sewing pins, carefully shoving them in a bit at a time with pliers. (No pre-drilling.) Sadly I've noticed now that he's been left alone for awhile his left wing is bending very slightly backwards at that same tendon, so I'm probably going to end up sticking a pin or two in it as well.
  3. I just finished mine today! I had a lot of trouble getting the tree right too, not sure if it was bent or the base was warped (I did boil it) but it just didn't want to sit well. I just used a whole bunch of green stuff to fill the gap and added to the roots a bit to make it blend nicely with the base. I actually painted him almost completely, in pieces, before putting him together, finishing the paint job, and only then finding out about the droopy wing. Argh! But it was a pretty easy fix. I put one long pin in from just under the first top claw, all the way through that skinny tendon thing, and into the wing. That helped a lot, but I found it was rotating along the thin section between the first two claws, so I put another pin diagonally from in front of that first bottom claw up to near the start of the tendon. Now the wing is staying up well. Had to touch up a lot of the paint that got rubbed off from the effort of pushing those pins in, though! He's my favourite of the reaper dragons, super glad I got him despite the troubles that come with his skinny frame! Edit: Here's a picture of where I put the pins in:
  4. Just to be contrary... Verocithrax is my must-have. I'm likely gonna get DDS2, mostly because I love the tower. Luckily for my wallet, I seem to have different dragon preferences than most. :D
  5. Yup, mini souls are all in the eyes. Then they can stare at you... paint me... finish me... why did you make my shoes that colour...
  6. Thanks, Matrissa. :D White hot was totally what I was going for. I don't have a full WIP but I do have this series of pictures I took while testing out the technique on the wings. It's crazy simple, just takes time, a steady hand, and a good brush. I mostly learned that I need a better brush. Step 1: Paint everything that will have white white. Step 2: Golden yellow on all the bumps, leaving white exposed in cracks. Yellow on wing membranes, leaving a thin line of white. Step 3: Fireball orange, same as yellow, but leaving yellow exposed instead of white. Step 4: Repeat with rusty red. The spots are getting smaller every time. Fill the wing membranes. Step 5: Pure black, as small as you can in the middle of the red. Skip tiny bumps. Paint shapes onto wing membranes. For the black shapes, I tried to have the 'cracks' follow where the wing membranes might bend, with more cracks at the joints and fewer on the edges. After I assembled him, I went over the pointy bits with another coat of black (both it and the red tended to rub off), a light drybrush of shadowed steel, a thin glaze of clear blue, and a gloss coat after sealing the whole mini, to give them the look of obsidian. Which doesn't show in any of my pictures.
  7. I make a little <1mm tube of green stuff, place it along where the edges of the join will be, then a couple dabs of superglue on both sides of the post so I'm sure one will hit. Squeeze the part in, then play with the greenstuff, removing excess and adding details that had been lost to the gap. I like to do it that way so that the base of the greenstuff is pinched in, when I've added it afterwards it always tends to want to come loose.
  8. Personal experience time! I have a dual-monitor desktop, and I just bought a surface pro 2 (microsoft's tablet, gaming-capable). I thought I'd use the surface as a gaming machine when I went on trips, and maybe as a drawing tablet at home, but I find myself using that thing all the time. I can check email, forums, everything from bed, from the couch, etc. I can bring my recipes into the kitchen. I get that you don't like win8 so I'm not going to try to sway you there, but if all you normally use a computer for is web and email, a tablet is totally the way to go. I'd recommend trying to find one with a removable keyboard. I can lounge around surfing the net with no keyboard or I can snap the keyboard on if I want to write a lengthy email or forum post. Laptops are handy since the keyboard is always there, but I've had small laptops (I have one that's smaller than my tablet) and the tablet is just... freer. It's not this strange angled thing, it's just a rectangle you can hold any which way. I love it. If I didn't game or use photoshop/illustrator (which benefits from dual monitors), I'd probably use the surface as my main machine, and I wouldn't have bothered with the pro, I'd get the RT (which is basically the windows equivalent of a chromebook, imo.) If my machine were to break right now, I might not bother buying a new one. If you do end up building a desktop, check out NCIX (Canadian shop). I just built a machine for my grandmother to do her email on for <$400, including the win7 license.
  9. [i can't seem to quote. Or paste. So pretend like I quoted Slendertroll here] Thanks for the OSL tip, I'll have to see if I can pull that off when I get back to my painting setup. I'd gotten so hung up on 'would he be melting the rocks' that I totally forgot about the whole 'would he be lighting the rocks' bit. Oops. Of course, he should also be lighting himself... all those bits of black that are facing him... I don't even want to think about it. :o
  10. I painted this guy as a test to see if I could pull off putting very different colours onto tiny little bumps. Turned out I could! I think he turned out pretty nice, I especially like the back of his wings. He's a dragon basically converted to fire. His claws, teeth, and spiky bits are made of obsidian. I have a whole story for this guy in my head, because he took forever to paint up and, well, stories happen. Short version: a wizard did it. Recently, too, since he hasn't yet had time to heat up the rocks he's standing on. Please excuse the poor photos, I don't have a good photo setup and I was rushed because I want to clear my craft table for a non-painting project. Thanks for looking!
  11. I don't have a solution to the mini cases (magnets sound great though), but for the paint case I just took the main foam out, keeping the thin bottom sheet. It looks messy but the case is sized so that the paint will stay pinched in and upright for the most part, especially if you put more bottles in. You can fit a lot of extra bottles in without that foam! On mine at least, all the tacky glue stayed on the big divider foam so my paints are safe from glue now. I only miss the section that held some brushes.
  12. I developed lactose intolerance at some point. Mine is rather mild, I think, I can have sour cream on fajitas but a bowl of ice cream or pasta with cream sauce is right out without a pill. Or rather, was. I've found that yogurt not only is just fine for me, but if I have it regularly I can consume other dairy products with almost no issues! I think the bacteria they use to make it into yogurt eat most of the lactose, and probably take up short term residence in the belly and keep working for you until they get shoved out by your existing stomach friends. Yeah, not super pleasant to think about. Try the pills, try a small bowl of frozen yogurt. Push your limits a little at a time! It's not fun to be on a restricted diet. Also, pop-rocks have lactose in.
  13. When I pinned mine, I just stuck a pin into his leg (a few in different places). If I aimed it wrong, it would come out the side. I just pulled it back a bit, held the leg a little differently (push the unpinned section towards the hole) and pushed it in again. So long as you only let the tip of the pin out, the extra hole should close itself up.
  14. Painting them is pretty much the same to me, but every time I have to prep a multipart metal mini I find myself wishing it was bones. The metal is soft but the plastic requires way less force when you want to cut or pin something. I don't even have to drill a hole on the bones, just slide a pin right into it. Don't even actually have to pin joints, just a drop of super glue and it's not coming apart anytime soon. On the other hand, you can bend metal minis and they stay bent. This is bad when it happens unintentionally (dropping, holding too firmly) but it's great when you want to change the pose a bit. Plastic bends itself right back, which is great for getting your brush behind things, but if you want to repose an arm your option is pretty much to cut, glue and greenstuff the joint.
  15. My cutter won't cut the sewing pins I use, but it will score them. Then I switch to pliers, hold everything tight, and just snap it off. A little trickier than just cutting, but there's no worry about the end flying off since it is held securely in the pliers.
  16. I was there! Thursday and all day Sunday. Which was crazy. A lot of work, but a lot of fun, too. It was great experience to be behind the scenes, with such an awesome group of people to work with. The attendees were fun too, I loved it when people would show off their mini on the way out. So proud! Women and children last! If you don't see one you like here, go in and check out the store where we have a huge selection of minis to choose from!
  17. I ran a pin through the leg from the heel, then he started bending at the foot instead. So I ran another through the foot. That keeps the leg steady, but he still slowly falls over. I put a pin in his tail to straighten him a bit but didn't make it extreme enough... a weighted base should keep him standing up, at least. Love how easy it is to pin these guys though. Just push it in, no heat required. Hardest part is snapping off the extra bit of pin.
  18. I use photoshop myself (not free) but I've heard good things about paint.net (http://www.getpaint.net/). Despite the name, it is not affiliated with MS paint. Cleaner/simpler than the GIMP. As always with software, which is best depends on what you're doing with it.
  19. I have had good luck with the silica gel, you can buy flower drying kits that are just a big ol' bag of silica gel that you bury the flowers in. I have a neat microwave flower dryer too where you sandwich the flower between two thick sheets of felt which are in turn sandwiched by unglazed clay. Works well to keep the colours, but leaves them flat. I tried the upside down in a dark dry place thing on some bright blue cornflowers and most of them turned white. Don't know how to fix that. One thing, dry them while they're as close to newly opened as possible (or even just before, sometimes). The longer they've been open, the more likely they are to just complete their natural process and fall apart when you dry them.
  20. I got mine (2 sets, sharing with a friend) and one of the #1 brushes had #0 tips. I sent in a note via kickstarter and they'll be sending me a replacement. Good customer service! I have not had a chance to paint with mine yet, but since I'm currently using old citadel brushes I'm expecting them to be a step up.
  21. I'd bring a couple minis that are easy to prep, and have him prep his while you prep yours. Maybe make yours a little tougher. I had a friend teach me years ago, and I did some at paint and takes, and never had to prep a mini. When I finally sat down with my own, all excited to get started, it took me weeks to push through the prep work. This could have been avoided if I had had some guidance on what needs doing and a bit of experience to show me it isn't so bad. For the painting, if he seems comfortable with it, sit him down with some paints and tell him to have at it! Advice is best taken when it's been asked for, so pushing techniques before he's had a chance to try it doesn't work nearly so well. And, you know, paint your own stuff at the same time so he doesn't feel so on the spot, and to give him a chance to ask what you just did there.
  22. My bet would be they will still be unassembled in the blister packs - fully assembled minis of that size are just too ridiculously huge to ship efficiently, plus they take up valuable store shelf space. Shipping and packing efficiency can make a huuuuuge difference to a business's bottom line - see Ikea for a great example of how cutting shipping costs can be a major factor in lowering prices and raising profits at the same time. I'm inclined to agree, but they've also said Bones are designed to be played with right out of the package. So, I thought I'd ask the guy who knows for sure. You know what would be awesome? If they included a tiny dropper of super glue in the blister of the unassembled ones. It's a pain to find/buy a tube if you don't use it often, but it's super easy to just drop a drop on and put the pieces together if you have the glue right there. Wouldn't add much to the package size, don't know how much tiny droppers cost in bulk.
  23. Honestly, I have trouble figuring out what's going on in the metals, too. I look at the website and almost always have to switch to the painted version to see what the mini really looks like. Blisters in stores have the models facing every which way, sometimes in pieces, and I have no idea what they are most of the time. I can't see bones being much worse, they might actually be better since most won't be in pieces. I actually had less trouble seeing what they looked like in the blisters at the paint-and-take last year, but they were only one per package which helps. It might be worth having some text on the package or a photo that describes how sharp the details really are, though.
  24. I see what a great deal the big dragons were, and I regret for a moment not getting them - until I remember that I didn't get them because I like my dragons alive. ;) I regret not getting the paints, a bit, because I had no idea what paint costs and I thought surely I could find them cheaper elsewhere. Oops. But had I got them then I still wouldn't have any paints, and I have been enjoying painting. So it's all good!
  • Create New...