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DocPiske

Bones Supporter
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About DocPiske

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  1. What is that on the far horizon? It might be then end of the thread...
  2. Got my pledge reward yesterday, haven't played it yet. Nice quality components, comes with Game Tray inserts to fit everything. I am pleased.
  3. First, thanks for posting. Every time someone brings this up I go buy a 4-pack from Amazon. Second, TAMIYA TS-80 Clear Flat Spray seems like it might work. I'll have to order a can and see how it works.
  4. Reaper Brown Liner 9064 through an airbrush, you shouldn't even have to thin it. Good dark brown color for a sailing ship, too. If you don't have an airbrush, I have had good results mixing brown liner and Reaper Brush-on Primer 9108 for large model brush applications; just be aware the primer is a bit smelly and the resulting color is more lavender than beige, strangely. Oh, and in my experience the Army Painter white spray primer can get tacky on Bones. So far no issues with Army Painter Black spray or brown.
  5. Having worked in plastic injection in the automotive industry, the injection ports not being completely clean seems unlikely. It is possible the machine that heats the plastic could have some residue, so that's possible. Factories are usually allowed a certain amount of regrind (previously injected parts that did not meet quality standards ground up) and it is possible to get some off-color material mixed in. Of course I don't know what the contract with the manufacturing firm allows, so I cannot say for certain that's what happened. Either way the parts are good to be painted.
  6. "I will go with you beyond the Rim... and we will see again all those who went ahead of us, all those who we have missed for so long." "Then we will not be alone?" "No. Never alone."
  7. Played Pandemic Fall of Rome over the weekend, fun game and we won. Made a couple of rules mistakes, so the victory may have been un-earned.
  8. That does look better. Keep at it. I'm still practicing after more than 30 years. Maybe try some thinned black paint around the metal loops holding each scale in place?
  9. So I black-line my metallic paints to get that solid look. It comes out a little comic book-y, but really sells the heavy metal look. I concur with using a de-saturated cool color for shadowed areas, such as blue, green or purple. Metal will reflect the colors around it, even in the shadows. After shading I will dry brush on the base metallic color again, followed by a light dry brush of a lighter shade, such as silver for steel. I have even used pure white for the highest, specular highlights. The last step to really make it pop is to apply a gloss to the metal area, unless the metal is supposed to tarnished. Pick up a model that's mostly metal armor to practice on. FWIW, I prefer Army Painter metallic paints.
  10. What about the Bronze Scout from Mordenkainen's? Swap out the lightning abilities for choking cloud (spices), and maybe remove the burrowing movement and sub in fire resistance?
  11. The Mandalorian season finale did give a nerdgasm, I must admit. Although the CGI did creep me out a bit.
  12. Pretty much all the techniques we use for acrylics were first developed for oil paints, including glazing. Add some linseed oil to the paint and then thin it a bit until you get the right consistency and transluncentcy. Just remember that oils take forever to cure and you might unintentionally end up mixing the new glaze layer with the paints already laid down on the model.
  13. The third wise guy, er, wise man for the Nativity set would be nice...
  14. Hail the victorious dead!
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