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DocPiske

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by DocPiske

  1. Weapons in clear/tinted Bones. Flaming swords, demonic staves, icy hammers, shadow bows.
  2. Bones are soft enough that you don't need a drill or rods; you can use a sewing needle or straight pin. Just be careful to not pin yourself.
  3. Back to one of the original questions about what model paints to have to mix your own, here is another thread whith RMS paint equivalencies for artist colors: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/55113-msp-equivalencies-for-artist-colors/
  4. So, back in this post, I mentioned I might paint another Earth Elemental, using the World of Warcraft Infernal as inspiration. Of course once I thought of it I couldn't resist, so I picked up another 77185, and painted it along with four miniatures from the WoW board game. It didn't work out as easy as I thought it would. The original plan was to paint the model in lime green, and then just dry brush the stone color over top. The dry brushing covered up most of the lime green, so I went back over the cracks with more green paint. I then hit some of the crytals with white high-lights intending them to look like quartz, as the WoW infernals don't have any gems or crystals sticking out of them. I didn't like the result, so hit them with some green ink. I then painted each of the board game miniatures the same way, but changed up the glowing color for the cracks to match the color of the plastic. The game differentiates the monsters based on color. Here is a group shot to show the size difference. So overall I'm happy with the result, and I think the Reaper mini will still work fine as an earth elemental. And it was a nice break from painting [REDACTED]. Maybe I'll get around to finishing her soon and post some pictures.
  5. I have used Floquil Poly S, Ral Partha, Citadel, Game Color, P3 and Reaper MSP, and I find a use for all them still. Games Workshop paints are the easiest to come by, at least near my home. There was a store that carried RMSP but has since stopped. I pick up triads and HD paints at cons or via mail order, but honestly GW has the lion's share of my paint drawers, simple because I can easily pick up what I need on the way home from work. The RMSP HD paints have not worked well for me. They tend to dry flakey and chalky, and sometimes don't adhere well, whether to Bones or metal. And yes, I wash my figures before painting. I've had issues on both primed and not-primed models. I picked all of them up at Origins two years ago, so it's possible I simply have a bad batch. My biggest disappointment with any line has been the metallic flake paints. They all seem to have poor coverage and the flakes seem too large. I usually paint areas I intend to paint gold with a yellow ochre first, and silver areas with grey. I don't like the look of NMM, even if it is all the rage. When I paint on canvas I still use NMM, but on my models I prefer the glint of metallic flake paint. Ten years ago or so, Poly S had a fantastic line of metallic paints; the flakes were ground so fine you could not see them unless you really thinned down the paint and they separated. When Testors bought them out the line was discontinued. I have not yet tried Tamiya metallic paint. So in summary, I used GW out of necessity, but prefer RMSP, except for metallic flake paint. I still use GW for that, having tried RMSP, P3 and Game Color and found them wanting. Oh, and RMSP liners rock!
  6. Ink applied directly over silver or gold metallic will give the illusion of iridescence. By illusion I mean that the colors will be fixed, and not appear to move as you move the object, as true iridenscence will.
  7. I've painted this dragon; the hardest part was just holding it up! That's a lot of metal. Nice job. Very vibrant.
  8. Dark chocolate delivered, many bottles of paint purchased. Oh and I ran my games. Success!
  9. Very nice, neat job. Brown is really a shade of orange, so adding the blue was a good call. Complimentary color and all. I guess if I had to suggest anything, it would be to make the bow a lighter or darker shade than the rest of the brown to differentiate the leather and the wood, but it looks great as is.
  10. I started out with grey, but have migrated to using whatever color I think will work best for the application. If the model is primarily caucasian flesh or light colors, then white; if the model is primarily metal or fur, then black. I recently started using Army Painter colored primers for Warhammer / WH40k stuff; so much faster to paint Space Marines when you start by priming the plastic in the appropriate color before you even clip it from the sprues. You do have to scrape some off to get good glue bonds, but not much. I do use black for all my Lord of the Rings models, though. I find it changes the chroma of the colors to mimic the look of the Peter Jackson movies.
  11. Not bad; pretty good actually. I found adding acrylic medium to the ink helped a lot with getting it to adhere to the translucent Bones. Also, I would recommend a gloss or semi-gloss "primer" over a matte; a matte coat would frost the plastic and make it less, not more translucent.
  12. Nice brush control and bright colors. Lining would help, especially with the metal bits. But so might some color theory; lots of different bright colors here, kinda hard to focus on any one part. For instance the trim on the cloak could be better defined if painted in a contrasting color or a darker shade. But overall a really nice job. I'd be happy to see it used in my games.
  13. Almost everything I paint would be considered table-top quality. I usually paint for use in games, and the models will either be handled a lot or are part of a large army for Warhammer/WH40K or Lord of the Rings battles. These particular miniatures will be used for PCs in a D&D game and will be handled quite a bit. Do I ever paint to a higher quality? Sure, just not often. I have a large backlog of miniatures that I bought because I liked the look or they fill a gap in an army, so I try to crank them out. 20 plus a month is probably about right. I'm currently working on 30 or so Talisman figures to use in games I'm running at Origins. I've had the models since the 80's, so you can get a sense of my stock pile of miniatures.
  14. So here are four Bones minis my D&D group picked out for PCs. I have to say I agree that the soft details make Bones less than ideal for PCs and important NPCs. Good for mooks and big monsters, though. Anyways, here they are. I need to get some Testors Dullcoat; my current matte spray is too shiney on Bones. Too bad this figure was discontinued; maybe we'll see it in metal. The details were quite soft on this figure, but it came out OK. I started out painting the cloth on this dwarf in blue, but then saw that was what every version in the gallery had. So purple. This one looks more indigo in person. I think my camera must have some setting to shift away from violet. Need to fix the staff, too.
  15. Sorry to necro a thread, but does anyone know what charity (if any) will be at Origins this year? I cannot seem to find it listed on the Origins Game Fair web site. I was hoping to email someone involved about donating some Bones I painted, to be auctioned off for the benefit of the charity. I have way too many miniatures, and thought maybe a monster starter set would bring in some cash for whatever charitable organization was featured this year, but my google-foo is weak, and I failed. Nothing urgent, just thought I'd ask. I can provide a link to Photobucket with pictures of most of the minis.
  16. Nice job. On the NMM, maybe darken your shadows/low-lights more.
  17. You can always tell time, you just can't tell him much. Usually exact time, due to digital clock ubiquitousness.
  18. Getting the paint in the right places if half the battle. Now that you have good brush control you can work on layering.
  19. Thank you for your kind words. Once I thought of the theme I was excited to see it and rushed the painting, and it shows. The whole thing took about an hour.
  20. So I don't know if it was the long, snowy winter or the Disney movie, but I've been on an arctic kick lately. Here is the Bones Earth Elemental 77185 done up like an ice golem. The bright lights seem to have washed out some of the more subtle shading, but then it's supposed to be mostly white anyway. I tried to cover the dinosaur fossil with snow, not entirely successfully. I used the Reaper Blue Liner as a primer, so I can confirm the blue works as well as the brown does. I think I'll get another one of these and paint it up like a World of Warcraft Infernal. Good thing Bones are cheap. In my last post I mentioned I was working on some LotR elven spearmen; here they are. They are about half metal and half Finecast; the Finecast is easy to spot due to the bent spear shafts. The last blue highlight didn't blend as well as I'd like, but they'll do.
  21. Nice clean work, I like it. The only comment I would make is that his hat should be a touch more blue. But overall a very fine speed paint.
  22. I'll be there Thursday to Sunday, running Talisman 2nd edition. And painting at the paint and take.
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