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Everything posted by DocPiske

  1. EvilJames, were you using all Reaper paints, or different brands? I've notice some paints (I'm looking at you, HD blue) don't bond as well to the PVC. Normal Reaper paints, and strangely the old GW Foundation paints, seem to bond very well. I base coasted the Bones Well of Doom model with GW Foundation paint, and once it was cured I rubbed, bent and twisted the model horribly, with no flaking, craking or rubbing off of paint.
  2. I remember administering the color vision test when I worked at the in-processing clinic at the Navy boot camp in Great Lakes. I was amazed how many guys had some form of color blindness. No electrician work for you! And I scored a 4 on that test. It also gave me a headache. lol
  3. Highlights are by definition lighter; but you could try to bring it back down by appying black or blue ink. Just make sure you are using a transparent ink, not opaque. This also might make the area a little glossy, but glossy dark areas look darker than matte dark areas, at least in full light. Also you could try reducing the highlights to very thin lines; this is called "edging" by some. You can get away with using a lighter value but it will be such a small area it would not change the overall value of the larger piece.
  4. David Trampier has passed away. You probably have seen his most famous work, the idol from the cover of 1st Edition AD&D Players Handbook. http://www.tor.com/blogs/2014/03/david-a-trampier-obituary RIP, Tramp.
  5. The typical hat confused for a fedora is a trilby. Both are named after women. Unlike a fez.
  6. Here's a couple of ankhegs I painted quickly for a D&D game this weekend. I spent maybe an hour and half in total to get both painted for the game, not counting cleaning and priming. The light brown/khaki came out more pink and washed out in these photos, but you get the idea. I picked green because of the ankhegs in the Baldur's Gate game. I might paint the Bones version I'm getting with Bones Kickstarter 2 a different color. And here is my wife's character for the game. Hard to find an armor wearing female with mace that doesn't also have a shield. I don't know why they removed shields from clerics in D&D 4th edition and D&D Next: I interupted painting twenty-some LotR elven spearmen to get these two ready for the game. When I finish the elves, I might at least post the conversions I did for a couple of the heroes.
  7. The enzymes in human saliva will dissolve super glue. Don't tell anyone I told you to do this, but lick the brush (or lick your finger and then touch the brush) and then let it soak. It will take several applications, but should work. How many licks does it take to get to the center of a Winsor Newton pop?
  8. Having worked in plastics in the auto industry I can tell you it is possible to reposition parts if you bend them beyond their elastic limits. However the soft PVC Reaper uses has too much elasticity for that. You best bet is to cut and reposition with crazy glue.
  9. I would have them re-open an old mine. It has the advantages of possibly being occupied by any monster or group of monsters, multiple levels, and possible follow-up missions to re-establish old trade routes.
  10. The metal owlbear is dragging his claw, so I left the Bones model as I found it.
  11. A 5/0 brush works well for thin lines, and ink flows better than paint. Don't be to fussy about the line being perfect; nature is very messy and random looking anyway. And you can tidy up you lines with your base coat. Just my 2¢.
  12. You should let the first coat of paint on the figure cure for an hour or more; most spray on primers suggest 4 hours or more, but I'm not sure that's neccessary here. However, I do know that just because paint seems dry to the touch that does not mean it is properly cured. Applying more layers of paint, especially very wet layers like washes and glazes, can re-desolve the base layer.
  13. Very nice. I can see this beast as an ambush predator, hiding in the foliage until he/she explodes out and gobbles up the prey. Flexing the wings should not be an issue; paint adheres so well to Bones that I commonly bend painted parts out of the way to get to other areas without an issue.
  14. Thanks for the kind words. I think the owlbear looks crazy too, in a total party kill kinda way. I have seen the GW Hobbit eagles, and would love to get them. However, I think I may now have more unpainted miniatures than painted, which is quite alarming, since my painted collection numbers in the thousands, mostly GW fantasy. I think I'd better get ahead of this trend or I will soon be seen on that horder TV show.
  15. Love it. Colors are a little bright for me, but that's just personal preference. Well done.
  16. First, some Bones goblins painted up D&D style: Next, some champions for my kobolds: I need to fix his chin. Too much yellow. Next, an older model I painted with a color scheme inspired by some of the mobs found in Scholomance in World of Warcraft: And finally, and old Ral Partha (now Iron Wind Metals) wyvern. I wanted some ice/frost themed monsters for an upcoming D&D session, and this model had been setting on my desk for a long time. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you enjoyed the models.
  17. Got my order today; no extra paint but a note from Peanut is better!
  18. The HD paints are a bit thicker, and I've found that if I don't thin them a bit (a drop of water or flow improver), they tend to crack and peal from Bones. Haven't seen that on primed metal models. They mix fine with other paints, though.
  19. My understanding of the difference (YMMV): A wash is meant to flow into cracks and crevices, leaving more pigment in the low areas and less on the high areas; it generally changes the chroma (purity) of the underlying color. It tends to be opaque or translucent in the low areas, transparent in high areas. It is generally but not always used to add shadows or "low-lights". Works very well on areas of flat color, or to shade metallic flake paint. I generally use paint thinned with water and/or flow improver for washes. On woodwork, this can referred to as "pickling". A glaze is transparent and can be used to change the value (brightness) and/or hue (color) of an area; it goes on evenly over the whole area being glazed. It can unify or harmonize an area already high-lighted with layers of paint; I use it to remove chalkiness when I've gone to far with high-lights. They tend to be more glossy, but don't have to be; you can get some fantastic gem effects using a glaze. I use matte medium and a little water with either ink or an ink/paint mix for glazing. I hope this helps.
  20. Someone will probably strongly disagree with this, but you really don't need good coverage with primer. The primer has good adhesion to metal, which most brush on paints don't have. The brush on paints do adhere well to the primer, though. So you really only need primer on those parts of the model which you will touch while handling or be touched by your choice of storage. The other areas you can just paint over with your base coat and they will be fine. As for curing the primer the minimum recommended time for most spray primers is four hours, however I agree that a day or more is better.
  21. Didn't Reaper actually recommend using a shot of Testor Dull Coat as a "primer" of sorts in the video that introduced Bones? I've used it to dry tacky paint on other surfaces, just not Bones.
  22. So, more Bones painted: Thundercats, ho! Too easy to make a joke... More terracotta than Georgia clay, but anyway: Born on Monday... Technically not all Bones: Technically not Fire Beetles:
  23. Little know fact: the enzymes in our saliva will disolve super glue. No, don't lick your miniature! Who does that? Lick your finger and then dab it on the spot. It will take a few applications, but it will come off (eventually). I don't know what effect it will have on the paint, though.
  24. Anything is possible, but none of my other paints seem to be affected. I think I'll just toss em and buy new ones. Just wanted to know if I was using them wrong somehow.
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