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DocPiske

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by DocPiske

  1. So here is the mini I chose at this year's Origins. I did not have my glasses (you would think I would learn to take them to cons...) and the lighting in the dealer hall was terrible. Mercury vapor lights up 30 feet or more. Anyway, the purpose of this post is not to show how terrible I painted the mini, but to show off how great the Reaper shader washes are! I did a quick base coat over the entire model in about 30 minutes, let it dry for 15 minites or so, and then hit it with the washes; brown for the ocre, tan and flesh areas, and black for the cape and hair. The brown I used for the gloves and boots is the same on the hair. The only thing I painted after the washes was the quick dry brushing on the blades: I am very impressed with these products, and if you're looking to speed paint, I highly recommend them.
  2. Not mine, but one I painted for a player. Does that count?
  3. And here is the female frost giant: And a friend:
  4. Having worked for a major automotive supplier on injected molded plastic parts, I can tell you that injected plastic has a "grain" from the flow of the material. If the part is deformed while hot from the mold (while de-molding or shortly there after), that will become its "natural" shape; i.e. the one it will try to return to when deformed again. In order to permanently deform it, you need to "break" the grain. This can be done by heating it up and bending it past the desired shape as mentioned. It can also be done by stretching the softened material along the long axis and then holding it in the desired position while it cools. Sometimes you simply have to cut the material and re-glue it into the desire shape; no amount of heating and repositioning will work.
  5. Very nice, limiting your pallate created a strong theme. One note, the technique you describe is a glaze; it's used by artists for canvas paintings. It changes the hue (the color, red to orange in this case) without changing the value (brightness) much. This means the areas you glazed aren't much brighter than the areas you did not. If you want to really make the highlights pop, you can add a lighter red highlight and then the orange glaze, or highlight with orange and then glaze with red to bring the hue back to where you want it. However, I like how it looks now. Very subtle gradiants. The model kinda reminds me of Deadpool... I think it's the eyes.
  6. Oh, happy Frabjous Day in Detroit! Hi there! We're shipping out your Kickstarter stuff! You're getting: There Be Dragons x1 Red Dragon x1 Figure Case x1 Orcapocalypse x1 vampire x1 Your shipment was postmarked on 06-20-2013 and is being shipped UPS Ground.
  7. I got the system check email tonight, but I also read the 6-14 update that says one orc from Orcpocalypse is in the last container due Tuesday, and then three weeks or more to ship them all. So, I will be pleasantly surprised if my reward shows up before 7-9. Which is coincidentally my birthday.
  8. On a side note, I spoke with the folks from Iron Wind Metals (formerly Ral Partha) and they told me that they are working on bringing back the old Partha Paints. The man I spoke to (sorry, don't remember his name) said that they would be reconfiguring the formula to increase the pigment density. I love me some Reaper paints, but I still have some RP paints from the 80's that are still usable today. I would love to have some Partha (or IWM) paints for base coating.
  9. Back from Origins (yeah, I know it runs to tomorrow, but tomorrow is male parental unit day, so I'm off to visit some guys older than me). It was fun as usual, although some noticed that it seemed smaller than previous years. Anyway, stopped by the Reaper game area and smiled and waved at the GMs running the Reaper games;the boards looked fantastic. The paint-n-take area was crazy busy, but we snuck in anyway; thanks to the kind voluteers running the event. The Reaper booth was sorely missed, but here's to next year!
  10. Does this mean no paint-n-take? I know it's run by volunteers, but Reaper provides the figs, paints and brushes.
  11. Prior to 4th edition, the skin color for frost giants was listed as "snow white or ivory". Since the first two were painted prior to 4th edition, I followed suit with the new one. The blue skin does look cooler.
  12. And finally the orcs. They are the last of the Bones until the Kickstarter pledge reward arrives.
  13. Here are some of the frost giants I've painted through the years. The first one is from Grenadier, painted in the 80's. I've had something of a love/hate relationship with this mini; the axe keeps falling off. I think I've got it secured now... Here is the Ral Partha AD&D version, painted sometime in the 90's: And the Reaper version, painted in a hurry for a D&D session. I never seem to plan out getting my models assembled and painted very far in advance of needing them... . I was going for a tundra camo look, basing it on one of the published adventures that had frost giants being ambush predators. Kinda ended up mono-chromatic. And a shot for comparison. The first two were about the right size for earlier editions, but the Reaper fig is closer to the correct size for more recent publications. I hope to add the female frost giant soon; she's in my queue.
  14. Spiders! Next up, the orcs.
  15. Masterful work. I love the limited palate of colors that seem to cover a greater range than they do, and the balanced placement of the hues is fantastic. I don't particularly like this style of art, but that doesn't mean I can't appreciate it. Well done indeed.
  16. Fantastic skin tones. The blues on the last one were amazing, as well.
  17. I am in awe of your prowess. I usually paint armies for GW games and so I am familiar with speed painting, but your skills put me to shame.
  18. I found the the large flat areas, like the ogre's back, were more prone to the paint either not sicking on application, or being easily rubbed off once cured. I think if might be a case where the area of the metal mold was polished a bit too smooth. I've seen similiar issues working in automotive placitcs that were being painted. We solved it by hitting that area of the mold with some emery paper. You could try something similar with the Bones miniature, just lightly buff the shiney areas with a file or some emery paper.
  19. Here are the two latest Bones. Almost running out of the current available, but I have plenty of other plastic and metal to paint while waiting on my Kickstarter reward. And two others. I recently had to repair these two after suffering a dropped case incident, and since they were on my desk I decided to snap some photos. This half dragon (supposed to be bronze, but I like the red better) lost both his arms. Luckily he knows a cleric who is high enough level to cast regeneration: This next one is one of my favorites. I was going for a desert ranger color scheme. Who says rangers are only found in the forest? I am not a fan of the sword, though. I've had to re-attach it twice now. I pinned it this time. Next time, spiders.
  20. I like your color choices and the very painterly style you have. The only suggestion I have is to really up the high-lights on the non-metallic metallics (those bits painted to look like metal without using mettalic flake paint). It will look more, well, like metal.
  21. Mostly the same, though I might change the color or a piece of clothing or armor so as to distinquish them whilst running combat in D&D. "The skeleton with the spear and red shield stabs at your character. Ooo, it's a 20, crit! That's gonna leave a mark!"
  22. I painted the RP official version of Kishanth, trying to follow the Clide Caldwell painting, but your's looks better.
  23. So, here are the latest Bones miniatures I've been working on while waiting for the KS box. First, the Great Worm. Not a lot of detail here, but I got to use my old Ral Partha Paints "Mind Flayer Mauve" and "Cormyr Purple": Next, they say a work of art is never finished, but merely abandoned. Here are my latest abandoned progeny: And some kobolds: And here are a few non-Bones conversions. See if you can figure out what anime character I was trying for with this one: Two more models used for PCs: And finally, a non-Reaper altogether. I wanted a fallen angel, so I went with a Roman soldier and added some wings:
  24. First, really nice choice of colors, limiting your pallet was a good move. And I like the stones painted onto the base. I too use steel fender washers for bases. I would stay away from red for flames entirely; it really only shows up when the the fire is otherwise in darkness; i.e. the fire itself is the only light source. In daylight, you don't see the red at all. I would use oranges and yellows, very bright and pale shades, maybe with a quick glaze of yellow paint mixed with a drop of PVA (Elmer's) glue; the glaze will add some translucence. The fire should be the brightest part of the model. Also, for the yellow cloth like on the outside of the robe you might want to use brown instead of black for the shadows. It should look more natural.
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