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Maledrakh last won the day on June 29 2020

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About Maledrakh

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  1. printyourmonsters is now preparing their new (second, they were in the first wave with their "plants and rocks"-tribe) tribe, and sending out messages to their existing patrons actively promoting moving over to tribes when it goes up, enticing with cheaper monthly rates, early birds deals etc. In their series of messages (slighly jumping the gun I would say, since the new tribes is not active yet) it certainly seems that they as creators want to get rid of extra hassle with the patreon delivery and keep it all at MMF where stuff according to them is more streamlined and easier for them to deal
  2. Here is a tip: "dress" the model from the innermost colour to the outermost colour, in that order. This lets you paint smaller and smaller areas, and you won't have to reach past already painted bits to paint other bits, thereby reducing the chance of messing up by hitting the wrong areas and then having to go back and fix them. combine this with a dark / black undercoat. Stay neat and with practice you can up your speed significantly.
  3. You can usually see if the miniature is a made in a lead alloy: Lead is duller and darker in tone than tin. Also it will be more bendy since lead is much more soft. If you drag the mini along a piece of paper, tin / pewter / white metal will not leave any coloured mark, while lead alloys will often leave a grey mark. if you handle bare lead minis, you will often get a grey residue on your fingers. *I am not a metallurgist, but* I experience this when prepping lead metal minis.
  4. a general tip when assembling pegged, keyholed or what you call it parts in PVC, such as bones or bones black is to heat one or both parts before assembly. I use recently boiled water for this. the same hot water trick as when straightening swords or whatever. This softens the plastic and in many cases undoes any warpage present from the moulding process. In my experience this makes the parts fit much better, and reduces possible gaps as they will flex a little to fit when warm and pressing together. If you then dunk in cold water, they set. Sometimes no glue is even needed. Heated
  5. BBC reel has a 5 minute short on a real life "dungeon": The hidden medieval world buried beneath a castle https://www.bbc.com/reel/playlist/secret-worlds?vpid=p08b8d1n
  6. My entry for the Reaper Challenge League Q2 diorama: The minis are: Reaper Bones Black 44044 Dark Watcher as Pac Man Reaper Metal 03920 Shadowgaunt as Pinky Midlam Miniatures’ metal “Ghosts of Midlam Manor” x 3 as Inky, Blinky, and Clyde -the latter pair in edible mode. and 3D printed walls designed by Printable Scenery White balls are expanded polystyrene, plucked from some packing material. The Black gravel is …black gravel. This is an idea I have had for a scene or diorama for ages, a Beholder stuck in a dungeon getting really bored, chasing the other denizens aroun
  7. it's a good paint job, but... something seems to be slightly off.....it's far to clean? Perhaps just a little gunk on the base would do the trick? Green and brown spots with some gloss varnish? Maybe this is just my prejudice against the poor, misunderstood Otyugh, who much like the common pig, actually might be the very model of cleanliness when given half a chance?
  8. I have been slightly less of a workaholic in May than in April, so I have been able to do some quartely challenges as well as the monthlies. I am probably not going to be able to paint anything else this month, so here goes. These were all painted for the Reaper challenge league May, and again, squeezed in between work. So, low effort speed painting is the key. which also shows that is it possible to get quite decent results in a short time as long as you accept there will be some rough bits. there are some pictures below
  9. Warning! Warning! Will Robinson! You really, really need to consider if you want to add anything at all to the paint on a permanent basis, and at the very least experiment to see if whatever substance you add to the paint actually works like intended. The long term effects especially might not be what you want. There is a true story somewhere on this forum about a person who added something (floor polish?) to ALL his brand spanking new reaper paints, which resulted in a whole lot of ruined paint and when he complained about "bad paint" Reaper naturally had to dismiss the person with "yo
  10. Those are Elder Things the original colonizers of earth
  11. I have seen that Titan Forge also is going the USD 100 route for a post-patreon montly set, where the patreon still charges USD 10 for a month. I might speculate that the sets simply do not sell in any significant numbers at USD 30, 40 or 50 outside of the patreon, so they have chosen to up the price both to increase percieved value of the patreon, and to actually get the USD 50 price when there is a 50%-off sale, since very many customers seem to hold off for a sale once they have decided to buy a mini or a set. This way they increase the FOMO for the whales that maybe would otherwise q
  12. There are significant differences in the properties of Bones Classic, Bones Black and Bones USA. Bones Classic and Bones Black both PVC, very similar in most respects, but BB is harder, more brittle and can hold detail better. Both can be softened and repositioned using near-boiling water then into ice cold water to set the new position. Bones USA is a different material. It seems to be lighter, hard, strong but still somewhat flexible (although it can snap), and can hold very high detail. It is superior in most ways, but it does not seem to soften in hot water. This is a drawback if
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