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Maledrakh

Bones Supporter
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Everything posted by Maledrakh

  1. ...or they are not villagers anymore, but a localized herd of zombies.
  2. It is really easy to overthink this. It does not really matter how old the primer is. Just use a checklist: Is the primer dry and looks good? Just go for it. Is it dusty? use a big / old brush to dust it off. then go for it. Is it sticky after several days? Strip it. Strip it real good. Is it patchy or flaky? (This might happen if the model was not washed, to remove grease or talc from the moulding process, before priming. This has been more common with metal or resin models that I have purchased second hand. Rarely a problem with plastic or PVC minis like warhammer or Bones.) Then you might want to look into stripping it, or just give it a proper wash with soapy water and an old toothbrush after brushing with a stiff brush to remove any loose or flaky primer, and when dry, give it a new coat of primer. Be aware that some resins react poorly to stripping and might be damaged or go permanently soft and bendy. Some types of stripping fluid (nail polish remover and acetone) will melt plastics such as the toothbrush and polystyrene (warhammer plastic). Google what you have to find a stripping fluid that suits your material
  3. Also be aware that Army Painter have two types of "quickshade", the dips and the inks / washes to add to the confusion they have the same names..."dark quickshade" "Strong quickshade" etc Some of the confusion you mention might come from some comments applying to the one, and some to the other type. They are quite different. The "dip" style quickshades typically come in a tin and they stink. These are oil-based and need at least a day to dry. also they are very shiny. (they are based on a kind of furniture stain/ varnish). You are supposed to base colour the mini, then dip them into this gunk and shake off the excess. when dry the minis are mostly done and shaded. This is the so-called "army painter method". google it for a better description. The "ink" or "wash" style quickshades are water-based, come in dropper bottles and dry in half an hour or so. They are used as traditional washes. I expect it is these you have.
  4. With a meat cleaver, still looking for some elevenses. Second breakfast! 77562 Undead Halfling Rogue from Bones 3, Undying Lords add on Reaper Miniatures 2016 Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi Classic Bones 20mm base
  5. From Bones 1, Nor'Okk the Ettin ...maybe I should get me a turntable and start making 360 videos instead... 50mm base 77103 Nor'Okk the Ettin Reaper Miniatures 2012 from the Bones 1 kickstarter, "Mind Your Manors" add-on Sculpted by Tre Manor Bones classic (The orginial soft bendy material) 50mm base
  6. From Bones 3: Vegepygmies The Children of the Forest. Now, where has that three eyed raven gotten to? At last, vegetables that fight back! Take that you Vile Weeds! 77513 Vegepygmies from the Bones 3 Stoneskull expansion Reaper Miniatures 2016 Sculpted by Kevin Williams Classic Bones 20mm bases
  7. From Bones 3: Gug "It was a paw, fully two feet and a half across, and equipped with formidable talons. After it came another paw, and after that a great black-furred arm to which both of the paws were attached by short forearms. Then two pink eyes shone, and the head of the awakened gug sentry, large as a barrel, wabbled into view. The eyes jutted two inches from each side, shaded by bony protuberances overgrown with coarse hairs. But the head was chiefly terrible because of the mouth. That mouth had great yellow fangs and ran from the top to the bottom of the head, opening vertically instead of horizontally." H.P.Lovecraft, The Dream-Quest of Unknown Kadath Ahoy, my dream enemy! Have at you! Also, this one will be a part of the Kings of War Nightstalkers army. 77524 Gug, Eldritch Horror from the Bones 3 Mythos expansion Reaper Miniatures 2016 Sculpted by Michael Brower Classic Bones 40mm base
  8. From Bones 3, the Werearmadillo Obviously, lycanthropy has spread too far...and this is a reminder that Reaper are from Texas, where armadillos are native and as I understand it, seen as pests. I would really like to know how the sales figures for this model compares to other lycanthropes. 77498 Werearmadillo from the Bones 3 Stoneskull expansion Reaper Miniatures 2016 Sculpted by James Van Schaik Classic Bones 50mm base
  9. his one is actually from the Fan Favorites expansion and not from the Lost Valley expansion, but still...Giant Insect? Yeah, that's your Lost Valley right there. So I put it in with the rest. To see the back bit, click the thingy:
  10. What is a faux-prehistoric setting without Cavemen? The stereotypical fur-clad, monosyllabic unwashed barbarian that whacks a woman over the head with a club and then drags her by the hair into a cave? Or at least, sporting the "cave man" look that was popularised in The Flintstones and The Far Side. The reason these types are prehistoric lies in the name. Pre-history, as in "before recorded time". Which really is most of time. We don't really know all that much about prehistoric man other than what can be gleaned through archeology. We do know that there existed several different sub-species of humans concurrently up to about 50.000 years ago. Neanderthals would be one such sub-species, the Hobbits (Homo Florensis) another. Then we (or something) killed off all the others. Some evidence of interspecies breeding is still to be found in our modern DNA. #628-631 These were only shown as silhouettes in the KS. From left to right: Shaman. clubber, spearman, archer. These are technologically advanced cavemen, as shown by their use of the bow. The Shaman. I call him Barney. He succeeded in the Quest for Fire. The clubber, Thag Simmons. He will be known to posterity by the manner of his demise. (Should have stayed clear of the tail end of that Stegosaur.) Fred, the spearman. Used stones of flint to make a sharp spearhead. Archie the bowman. His right hand strategically placed to hide his embarrassing lack of arrows from the others. These were simple and fun to do in regular paints on a black undercoat. I come in search of the answer to the Riddle of Steel! What do you know about it? These minis were finished June 14th 2020. 44086 Black Bear Tribe Cavemen (4) Bones 4 kickstarter, delivered 2019 Reaper Miniatures Sculpted by Bobby Jackson Made in Bones Black PVC available from reapermini.com
  11. The last few weeks have been very busy with very little time or inspiration to paint, as the general lack of posts lately will bear full witness to. As you might imagine, I was going for green magical flames. I struggled with this, and it did not turn out as I had envisioned it. This one I count as a bit of a failure, and I am not at all satisfied with how it turned out. Maybe I will repaint the whole thing at some point but for now I am rather sick of it. At leaast it does look much better IRL on the table than when magnified in photos. Somthing which is a small comfort. The white for "teeth" does not work at all in the pictures and I might just redo that part and leave the rest alone. Or not. The wierd thing is that the white "teeth" are not that bad IRL. But once seen, it cannot be unseen... What is this sorcery?! Gah! Even the captions are uninspired. I should probably just go to bed. 77352 Demi Lich Bones 2 Core set, 2013, from the Expansion set #1 Reaper Miniatures Sculpted by Julie Guthrie Made in Bonesium PVC 30mm base. available from reapermini.com
  12. You need to host the full frontal picture somewhere else and then just have the ink to it in your post, according to the forum rules. No nipples are to be seen. Great paintjob btw
  13. just your regular side cutters work fine for me. I snip around the feet, and then slightly below the feet themselves. Cutting directly where the feet start is counterindicated as the cutters often will dig into the metal and make the feet much thinner than they are supposed to be.
  14. You want to wash most minis to remove mould release agent such as grease or talcum. 3D prints are not moulded and as such has no mould release agent. Resin prints do need a wash to get rid of excess resing (which is toxic) PLA does not need to be washed. word of warning: do not wash PLA prints in water. PLA absorbs and reacts to water, at worst you might ruin your prints. I found this out the hard way: I made the mistake to rewash a mini I already had based on one of my PLA printed bases. The base warped significantly from the water and could not be saved.
  15. It all depends on the look you are going for. You do have a great looking black wolf there. The trick to using drybrushing effectively is to wipe alot of paint off the brush. (Alot!) and to vary the pressure on the brush when brushing over the mini, according to how much colour you want. Gradually building layers is key. If you want the black wolf to look more naturalistic try using some (very) dark colours in between the layers of greys. Dark blue or dark green, even dark purple or dark red adds a spot of naturalistic to black fur. the brown you have used is a step towards this. ie, black base coat, dark grey drybrush, a drybrush here and there with dark blue, then the mid grey and ligher greys. Or you can mix a spot of blue, green whatever into some of the greys you drybrush with. If you want the wolf to look more greyish than blackish, start with a more heavy drybrush of grey onto the black undercoat and take it lighter in steps. Note that many grey wolves have hints or even areas of yellows / sand/ beige here and there. Also, note that many animals have a lighter underside / belly and inside of the legs than the top of their coats.
  16. These last few weeks have been very busy IRL so very little has been painted. I did however manage to whip this up the other day. The little vampire. aka Vampire Halfling from Kings of War: Vanguard's Undead Warband Booster, by Mantic Games. Off to count some blood sausages. Or maybe slurp some black pudding. Oh, how he longs to again be able to have some hot cross buns...but they burn his mouth so... For some reason my camera did not want to focus properly on the face. Printlines?! Printlines!? What is it with "premium" resin minis and what looks suspiciously like printlines? Has someone failed at the clean-up-of-the-master-print-stage or is it something else that makes such lines a thing? Has someone rushed and cut corners? Why would you release a premium resin model like this? You can say a lot about Mantic starting out with cheap, "no brand" minis, but that is simply no longer true. Single, normal size resin models clock in at the €10-15 range retail price, the four model booster is a £30 / €40 / $45 box. That is premium pricing. Well, maybe at the lower end of premium but still, premium pricing. When they charge a premium price, I expect a premium product. Print lines = sloppy quality control. = not premium. Apart from the print lines on the cape, it is a good mini. I cannot abide the square bases they use for Vanguard, so I printed a 25mm round for it. Sneaking up on a beefy snack This mini was finished May 25th 2020. Vampire Halfling from the Undead Warband Booster for Kings of War: Vanguard Mantic Games, 2020 unknown sculptor Made in resin 25mm base. available from manticgames
  17. The big skull to the middle right immediately made me think "hitler". must be the large nasal cavity in combination with the diagonal crack ("hairline fracture" ;D ) on the forehead.
  18. This is actually a very good KS. A clear, useful printable terrain product with a lot of variation built in. The price is not too bad either. I wish there were a lot more like this.
  19. I imagine the magnet is to keep the thing from tipping when not in use. also, it adds some pizzazz to make the punters think this is a gadget they really need. mostly it lets them charge more. I use old glass paint pots with a big blob of putty, and they still tip over every time I move my paint board station-thing even though they have some weight to them.
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